Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Speed = acceleration multiplied by time.
Thus if you were accelerating at say 32 feet/sec/sec, then after 10 seconds you would be going 320 feet per second (or 218 MPH).
But, in the case of a piston, the linear acceleration is constantly changing, thus you need to integrate the acceleration as a function of time.
If would be a straight forward trigonometric calculation to produces a closed form solution of the piston speed and acceleration as a function of RPM., rod length, stroke and crankshaft degrees BTDC.
Or simply give Grumpy a call and let him post a link (or several) with all the details.
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My neighbor brought home a pontiac bonneville with the supercharged 3.8 litre motor. Man, that is a sweet looking package and it sure moves that heavy car well.
Don't know how much such an engine would cost, but shouldn't be too bad. Would make the Z a good road ralley car...should have excellent throttle response (something harder to get with a turbo)
BTW, what is so magic about 25 MPG? That is about all an early Z got in stock form to begin with. If you're worried about $$ then stick with the stock engine. The amount of money you will save a year by getting 25 MPG instead of 20 or even 15 MPG is peanuts. So the only other reason to worry about mileage is to save the planet (I am not putting it down, something to think about), at which point why are you driving a sports car?
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I thought OBDII allows program updates via software? In fact, I think it is a requirement. So all 95 and newer LT1's should be reprogramable via laptop.
Why are you "burning a chip" with OBDII?
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I would use the channel rather than the tubing. It will be near impossible to paint the inside of the tubing. Unless you plan on getting everything plated, at which point it will be cheaper to buy a manufactured trailer.
Also why use a tubing notcher on a trailer? Just butt the square cut pipe to the other and fill in the gap with several passes of the welder. I wouldn't do a roll cage this way, but I did a workbench and believe me it is plenty strong.
And yes, Mark Twain was very well versed on the bible. He referenced it frequently in his writings (and was a frequent critic of it too).
Doesn't make his phrasing of it in the English vernacular any less quotable.
His famous quote that applies to Hybrid Z is
"Necessity is the mother of taking chances."
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Yeah, need more info. Do the lights and electrical work with the engine off? The engine cranks over fine (plenty of battery)?
Once it starts, do the lights go completely out at idle? Or just get dim?
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Hey, I have some slang none of the street gang understands:
"Went to work today and pickup up my paycheck to pay my child support..."
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If you have no power they why are you messing with the starter?
The place to start is the battery. Pull if off, clean the terminals and hook it up a battery charger for a couple of hours. Hook up a test light to check for life or take it back to the same place that checked your starter and have them check the battery.
If all is well, then put it back into the car and see if the headlights/horn/turn signals/something electrical works. If still nothing, then start checking the wiring/fuseable links or come back here for more help.
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My dad worked for the railroad. they use to turn the gas only on and throw the torch into a snow bank. After awile, pull the torch out by the hoses and toss in a road flare.
He said it worked best if you got good and liquored up first.
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Man that is nice.
Does it pass the katman test?
Wonder what percentage of the stock interior panels (including dash) will fit?
(sorry to steal this thread, but I don't know the answer to your question)
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Try opening a Barbie for your daughter.
They must give the packagers an extra fish head for every plastic coated steel twist tie they warp around each appendage. Do they really need a wire twist tie on Barbie's purse? And for some reason they actual sew hard pieces of plastic to hold the hair to the packaging so the he-man approach is guaranteed to produce a cascade of tears when you hand over a bald doll.
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Good to know we can have an open exchange of factual information in an adult fashion.
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With a blower then 650 HP might still be reasonably streetable. I guess it depends on your defintion of "reasonable".
The limited traction on a Z will prevent using all those ponies and torque anyway. But boy howdy would that be fun!!
Also, if you are going to build a stroker with a blower, why start with a high HP crate motor to begin with? You are going to have to replace all of the internals to get the most out of the forced induction, so why not start from scratch? Also, is a 383 stroker really a good starting point for a blower motor? Do you give up any bottom end strength by machining parts for the longer stroke?
Someone educate me.
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Why pay $1700 to port a set of stock heads when you can get a set of AFR heads for less?
Not trying to be flippant. I really want to know.
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Tri power set ups were not progressive. All three carbs were synced just like a set of triple webers. I have also read many a magazine that says they got better economy and performance out of a basic 4 barrel set up than a tri power.
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Had a similar concern. In here is a pretty good picture someone posted of a fuel cell using the stock filler location. Someone else even managed to use the stock filler location yet run a muffler underneath it.
Here, read about it.
http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000699#000000
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I wouldn't be too concerned about the U joints either. This topic has gone around several times. There is enough uncertainty about the CV's being stronger than the U joints that it has led to several "discussions".
I second the advice about the R180 above. Run it until it starts to go or until you find a killer deal on the R200 of your choice.
Good luck on the R200 LSD. The option is popular enough that most sellers know how much what they have is worth. Also be careful in that many times used ones need rebuilding. A number of guys install R230's, but that brings it's own set of headaches. Another option is the Phantom Grip as a budget LSD.
After reading these posts for some time, it looks like the Quaiffe is probably one of the better options, even at the price.
But don't believe me, spend some time searching the archives.
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Soot tells me it is too rich. Way too rich.
White smoke when cold or during starts usually means bad valve seals.
Look at your plugs and check for oil fouling.
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The catch mechanism on a 240 is physically different from the later models (and most modern cars as well). They simply do not work as well as the later versions. Don't know how much car flex has to do with it. The hinges on the 240's are also a weak point. Get a bit of door droop when it is opened.
The 240's do flex considerably. Mine has paint cracks at the top of the C pillars. From what I have read this is common. Pete P's subframe connectors should remedy that.
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Alright, who has the CNC industrial laser???
Don't ya just hate other guys alway having more tools than you.
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Do a search on the archives. There have been some VERY long threads discussing this one. I lost my old bookmark file or I would give you the link.
IMO you really can't go wrong 240 or 260 or 280. They all have their plusses and minuses.
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I use to try to defend the quality of domestic cars. Trouble is every time you really get into it you run into someone that had a Chevy or Pontiac that went through more transmissions than spark plugs. I no longer entertain such discussions since you will never convice the former owner of a Pontiac Fiero or Chevy Vega that GM cars are reliable and well engineered.
I once talked my sister into buying an 1976 Oldmobile Starfire instead of a brand new Volkswagon Rabbit. I told her to not buy the Rabbit because it was the Rabbit's first year.
Needless to say my sister will never take auto advice from me again. That Starfire was such poorly designed and constructed car that as far am I am concerned GM's reputation will never be the same. I guess the Japanese save their experiments for home use and only export proven models.
GM has produce more than it's share of lemons. Anyone ever own a Citation? How about a car with the Oldmobile diesel? The Caddilac 4-6-8?
But I think my biggest complaint with GM cars is the quality of the interiors. Look at a japanese dash. Everything is nice and tight with simple knobs that stand the test of time. Then look at your basic (fill in the blank) American car. The dashes all rattle and all too often have these goofy switches that break off in your hand.
Flame suit on, but when it comes to quality complaints GM deserves a lot of what they get.
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An el cheapo sabre saw with a metal cutting blade works perfectly on 18 gauge steel. I think 24 tpi. Or use a sawsall or air powered saw if you have either one.
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You definitely want to search the archives. I have seen some very respectable members of this board say they feel coil overs are not suitable for a street car. Obviously to each his own.
Would like to second what Dan Baldwin said about "225/50-15s fit without rubbing on 15x7" zero offset wheels". That is exactly the set up I ran for auto X with my 240. In fact, the majority of the people at the trials ran the same. Seems like most of the guys on this board are running some insane wheel/tire set ups, but then again they have considerably more HP than my near stock 240 motor. I have always wondered what wheel spacers and rear tires being a half foot wider than the fronts would do to a Z's handling.
I used Datsun "Euro" springs and KYB struts (all from MSA) and had a nice street car. Definietly not the most radical set up (especially compared to some of the guys on this site), but it handled very flat on the on ramps. The 50 series tires were probably the biggest hit to ride comfort. I also replaced all the rubber with urethane. In particular you want to replace the steering coupler with something solid.
Overall I had a nice handling car. It tends to push a bit more than I liked, but I think that had something to do with the oversized sway bars. The MSA set up is considerably heavier than what most of the other auto X's were running.
If I had it to do over I would probably go with adjustable struts and maybe 16" wheels to better fill out the wheel well (if that is possible). I would have to think about coil overs. Don't know if I would want springs much stiffer than I have. Same for lowering the car. The Euro springs lowered the car just slightly. Any lower and I don't think I would enjoy the Maryland highways.
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Some one once posted they used a pressure washer that had a built in heater to remove undercoating.
High pressure hot water sure sounds a lot less painful than 5 gallons of solvent and a trash can of solvent soaked rags.
Piston Speed Question/Quiz
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
BTW, to convert acceleration into G's simply divide by 1 G (32 Ft/sec/sec)!!