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Pop N Wood

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Posts posted by Pop N Wood

  1. Fuel delivery problem.

     

    I will bet my left nut.

     

    You either have a weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or some other restriction.

     

    With a full tank you have a nice pressure head at the inlet to the pump. As the take gets low, the inlet pressure drops and the pump is not capable of making it up. When the engine and/or fuel heat up, the pump doesn't work as well (maybe starts to vapor lock?) and it becomes even less tolerant of a low tank.

  2. I think the short answer is yes, some type of chassis stiffining will be a good idea with a V8 Z. Obviously the more horsepower and the harder you flog the beast, the more work you will want to do with the chassis. A little less obvious is that older and possibly rusty cars will need work just to get back up to stock strength.

     

    I have read postings of people who had trouble shutting their hoods after a couple of serious torque sessions. One guy kept cracking his windsheild, altough most people think he may have other problems.

  3. I use to need a helper to bleed brakes, doing pretty much what Kevin said. But a many years ago I decided to connect a piece of clear tubing to the bleeder valve and to run it into a jar with an inch or two of brake fluid in it. This allows you (by yourself) to pump the brake pedal at will without stopping or closing the bleed valve between strokes (putting the tubing in fluid prevents the air from being sucked back into the calipers on the back stroke). Just remember to keep the MC reservoirs full and to close the bleed valve before disconnecting the tubing.

     

    This has worked so well for me through the years that I always wonder why anybody makes or buys the vacuum bleeder kits. It is also a no mess way to cycle a lot of brake fluid through the system to flush it. Any dirt or air is clearly seen in the tubing, just keep pumping until it is gone.

  4. I have been reading these postings for some time now. What I have seen, without exception so far, is people with overheating problems and no other cooling system malfunctions are almost invariably running an electric fan. Have never seen this complaint with mechanical fans.

     

    I have bookmarked threads of guys who are running a nice V8 with no cooling issues and a stock Z radiator with a mechanical fan.

     

    So my suggestion for guys who have to have electric fans is to make sure the fan you use will do the job. Follow the advice of others closely.

  5. Yes, but then wouldn't you have a recirculating catch can?

     

    I don't know of any other systems that would be recirculating besides the radiator. The radiator is a totally sealed system that is filled completely full of fluid (no air bubble). Everything else (oil, fuel, whatelse?) is vented to atmosphere. I think some race rules require anything that can spill on the track to be vented to a catch can. In that case you definitely would not want a recirculating can.

  6. My guess? The radiator overflow can has a tube running down to the bottom. Thus when the radiator/engine cools, the fluid in it contracts. This causes a vacuum which sucks the fluid back from the overflow, just like a straw.

     

    A catch can, I would assume, just has a connection at the top that dumps the fluid into the top of the can. Any vacuum on the inlet line will only vent air through the can.

  7. Katman is already on the hook for giving us the ultimate street cage rockon.gifrockon.gif

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001382

     

    Here is a link discussing the pros and cons of the "ultimate" front brace pictured above

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000682

     

    Here is another choice for front braces

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001442

     

    There are quite a few good options for roll cages and stiffening.

     

    Here are a couple of my favorite roll cage-subframe HybridZ threads

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=001099&p=

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001118

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=001370&p=

     

    Here is a good thread about subframe connectors

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=001526&p=

  8. A couple of years ago there was a story all over the news about some guy got left on Mt. Everest and half froze to death. Made all of the news because he called his wife from the mountain to say "good bye". Ended up living (less most of his feet, hands, nose and face) BUT the reason he almost died is the laser surgery combined with the low pressure at altitude made him so near sighted he couldn't see his own feet. The rest of the group left him at a lower altitude with the idea of doubling back, but a storm came in and he got left for dead.

     

    True story.

     

    Just don't climb any mountains after having laser surgery on your eyes. I wonder if this could also affect pilots?

  9. My 70 240 was originally very stiff to turn, even with 185 tires. I then replaced all of the front rubber pieces with urethane and the steering became very light, especially when parked!

     

    I think the biggest difference is to replace the rubber steering coupler with a solid one (Motor Sport Auto part # 23-4160 or 4161). This gets rid of all the slop in the front end and makes steering much more positive (and light).

  10. Jacobs electronics makes a box that allows the engine to be started and run fora minute or so. Then it cuts the ignition in and out like the car is stalling before killing it altogether.

     

    The idea here is the theives will be in the middle of an intersection or something when the car dies. Makes them much more likely to abandon the car.

     

    The other advantage is they have to actually move the car to be quilty of auto theft, a much stiffer penalty than simple breaking and entering.

  11. Actually that thing you were looking at was the thermostat valve that controls the amount of coolant flowing into the heater core. Check the connections and the heater core, but it is very common for the thermo valves to leak. And they only leak when turned on. When the heat is off they backseat some how.

     

    When mine went bad, I can't remember if I had to replace it or if I managed to fix it some how.

  12. I guess I have always considered crate motors to be newly manufactured engines from one of the big three. Everything else is just everything else.

     

    Keep in mind, complete LT1 motors typically sell for $1500 on ebay whereas a $1500 "crate" motor is typically going to take another $1500 in parts (starter, carb, exhaust, ignition, brackets, alternator, etc. etc. etc.) to make a running product.

  13. Looks like the old engineering addage 'faster, better, cheaper: pick any two" applies here.

     

    To minimize discussion, if we start with the assumption that a vented front rotor is a "must", then there looks to be a couple of options for low buck vented rotor upgrades.

     

    With all set ups it is important to buy decent pads and keep the brake fluid fresh.

     

    #1 "Oxandale Junkyard" 280ZX/300ZX

     

    280Z calipers

    300ZX vented rotor

    Needs a few shims to mount the caliper and need to turn the rotor to reduce the overall diameter (easily done at a brake shop)

    No wheel spacers and no rim clearance issues?

    True?

     

    Excellent write up:

     

    http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/BrakeUpdate.html

     

    #2 Toyota 4x4 calipers and vented rotors

     

    Essentially Mike's Stage 1 package

     

    http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes_zcar.html

     

    I guess the disadvantages would be this set up is heavy, requires a wheel spacer and may have clearance issues with some rims?

    True?

     

    Advantages: more massive caliper, possibly more piston area and definitely more pad area. Plus a very nice kit available from Mike above.

     

    One variation is to machine some Maxima rotors and avoid the wheel spacers. There are issues with this

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001298

     

    #3 Mike's Stage 2 package with Outlaw brakes

     

    Totaly bitchin (but maybe not cheapo?)

     

    Any clearance issues or wheel spacers required?

     

    #4 Misc

     

    Have seen posting saying Jag 4 piston calipers will "bolt right up"

     

    http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001298

     

    But this was still a swap in theory.

     

    Have seen others saying the 240 spindle is the same as a 62 chevy.

     

    Any others?

     

    Also what is the issue with wheel spacers? One post said some sanctioning bodies do not allow them. Are there any issues with changing the total wheel offset? Can this cause wheelwell/suspension clearance issues or affect handling?

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