Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Unless I miss my guess 75's were fuel injected so you can reuse your stock tank. it has the internal plumbing so it should not have fuel starvation issues.
There are numerous posts about adding internal sumps and swirl pots if you want some added margin. do a search
IMO the problem with fuel cells is just what you have noticed, most of them fill from the top. I personally don't like the idea of opening the hatch to refuel, but a lot of guys seem OK with that.
The other problem is weight and fabrication time. It does take some effort to mount a cell, whereas the stock tank has all the mounting stuff already figured out. You will probably find the stock tank weights less than whatever the finished fuel cell plus mount weights.
Dual exhaust is good point in favor of the cell. As is safety (if mounted properly). I think costs will favor refurbishing the stock tank.
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Hey. I like tasteless content!
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Grommets?
Here is one example, although theses look to be brass
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If youre referring to the clamping blocks that have brake, fuel feed/return and vent line channels, yes! Any idea on cost? I figured I would have to cast my own out of McMaster Carr urethane. For now I will just reuse the cracked stock clamps, but when I pull the motor and redo the undercoating I would be interested in replacing them all. I think the stock configuration is 5/16 fuel feed/return, 1/4" vent and 3/16" brake. I'd want 3/8" for the fuel feed and keep the rest the stock size.
Cheers,
Greg.
Yeah, the rubber on my 240 was totally rotted. Stock replacements would be nice. Altough it won't do much good for the V8 guys with larger lines.
I am upgrading to 3/8 inch line so I decided to make my own to mount in the stock locations. I was able to make larger metal hangers that fit the stock on car mount out of stainless , then bought a stick of rubber from McMaster carr that I was going to cut and drill to fit the bigger lines. After making one by hand I am looking for a different option.
What moldable urethane have you found?
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Looks like a sweet deal.
The only problem with fresh paint is it can cover up a lot of shoddy body work. paint goes over rust as easily as clean steel or bondo.
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You either have a lot of current running through the wire from the alternator to the battery or you have a lot of resistance in that same line. Those are the only two ways you can get that type of voltage drop across that line.
Try disconnecting and cleaning every connection between those two points.
How old is your battery? Maybe it is going dead and drawing a lot of current trying to charge.
Even with an internal regulator the alternator has a voltage sensing wire coming out of it. The regulator tries to keep the voltage at 12-14v at the point where the voltage sensing wire hooks into the harness. That is usually at the little low voltage light in the voltmeter guage. Try measuring the voltage there and see what it says.
The other possibility is the chassis ground. Disconnect and clean up all of those too.
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Getting a large breasted woman in a tank top to hold if for the picture never hurts either
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Master cylinder
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Ah, the memories....
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As I said I'm young, but I think she might be the one.
Well now you just lost any sympathy you might have had from me.
No, at 14 she is NOT "the one". You are going to live 5 or 6 lives between now and the time you are 20. Believe me, neither one of you really know who you are or how you are going to look at life in a few years.
Maybe you need to step back from girls for a few years on concentrate on who and what you want to be when you grow up.
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A 1310 U joint is a 1310 U joint regardless of whether it is on a Ford, Chevy, Dastun or any combination there of
https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html
I am running GM motor mated to a TKO. The TKO needs a Ford C6 yoke. I already bought a diff flange from the link above. I am getting a driveshaft made from this place
Also why center force? I had one of those clutches on my L6 and was never too happy with it.
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We have too many sticky's already.
Besides, there is a ton more information buried in the 500 other posts on this topic.
Now if someone wanted to take BRAAP's excellent post and add some additional details from the archives, then we would have an good entry for the FAQ's hyperlink thread....
Having an early 240 I will say you don't appreciate all of the structural differences between the 240's and 280's until you start trying to source junk yard parts. Nissan buffed up quite a number of key components. I can't help but think a lot of the changes were to correct some deficiency in the 240 design. Some of them appear to be safety related, like the stronger steering rack mounts, door latches, control arms, stub axles, moving fuel lines, etc. The forward mounted diff was an obvious mistake also.
Fl327 posted some of the best observations concerning the 3 models that I have read. Right down to fumes in the cabin and ripping out spot welds.
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Don't take it personally. As a parent I can tell you my 15 year old daughter won't be going out on "dates".
She can have friends over to hang out at the house, or school functions, or maybe I will drop them off for day events. But no dates.
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I bought my house at the early stages of a new housing development. I use to make regular tours of the construction dumpsters in front of the new houses. These houses were the type where all the walls were constructed in a factory and shipped with numbers on them, so there was never much framing material.
But if I hit the dumpsters about the time the finish carpenters, electricians and plumbers were working I use to clean up. I got more caulk, mouldings, rolls of Tyvek tape, plumbing fixtures, bags of motar mix, sometimes entire kitchen cabinets or sinks.
Nice thing is 15 years later no one sells baseboard that matches what is in our house. But I have my supply from the dumpsters.
The thing that finally made me stop is one day I looked into a dumpster only to find it empty except for a single briefcase. I figured somebody had stolen a briefcase, taken whatever was valuable and dumped the rest. So the nice guy that I am I figured who ever lost the case might value getting the papers or day planner back, so in I go for a look.
When I opened the case I found about two dozen well used porno mags, a scanky rag, a bottle of hand lotion........and maybe 4 dozen used needles.
Haven't been in a dumpster since.
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Don't take your car out of gear on long down hills. It is generally considered to be unsafe. If your engine stalls, you lose power steering and brakes. Plus you do put a lot of load on the brakes possibly overheating them. I
But I wouldn't downshift so many gears that the engine is screaming. Just enough to hold the car in check.
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Actually I think it has been done. Do a search on Ford IRS and see what comes up.
Also I think you will get more useful replies if you change the title of this thread to something like "anyone done a Ford IRS swap?".
I know I don't open every thread, especially ones with nebulous descriptions like yours. People like to brag about their work, so give them a reason to open your post
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Put the battery on a charger for at least a few hours, clean the battery posts, take the car out of gear, block the wheels then try starting it again.
Did I mention clean the battery posts? With wire brush? Whether they look clean or not?
If none of that works, pull the battery and take it to Autozone to be checked. Bring the alternator with you while you are at it.
If you could get some voltage readings with the engine off and once again once it is started we can give you more information.
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I have heard the same thing about sand in a sandblaster, but you have an excellent point about the water. Even asbestos removal is less dangerous when they inject the insulation with water first. As long as it is not airborne it is not a threat.
And $3.50 a 50 lb bag is Home Depot prices. It is $20 a ton at the local gravel quarry.
If you have to use box media, then I would say it is going to be too expensive since you can't recycle the media. But for $20 a pickup truck full.
Plus I would imagine you don't have to worry about heat warping sheet metal.
Makes me wonder why it is not the preferred way to do it.
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How did you redrill the LS6 barb? I was thinking of trying to bend it backwards, but I have heard of people destroying them that way.
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Wow. Sort of the best of both worlds. Really matches the Cobra look too. I have thought about moving the coil packs off the engine like you have them, but putting them in the stock location is probably the most convienient place to put them on a Z.
Those GMPP intakes are suppose to flow like crazy. Quite a few guys on LS1tech.com running huge numbers with those intakes converted to FI.
are you running PCV vents off the valley cover and the valve covers? Or is that back tube a balance tube?
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For just a little more than your stated budget you could get a new Civic. Not much in the way of a sports car but pretty much nails all of your stated goals.
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Just got an $800 spot award at work, so the LM1 order goes out this week.
Good to know about grounds, but I don't think the Holley double pumper will care.
Gonna be an odd duck. A carb'd LS2 crate motor with a wideband, data logging O2.
Now all I need to do is find time to work on it.
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I like the way you think
Life has been kicking my ass this year, but eventually I hope to get this carb'd LS2 crate motor on the road.
A few other links to add to yours
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/0508ch_chevrolet_ls1_carburetor_power_increase/
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/induction_poweradders/0409sc_gmpp/
A recent issue of I think Car Craft did a piece on pulling JY truck LS motors as low buck swap candidates. They went with the carb set up, mostly to save time, but also because the truck intakes are too tall for most vehicles. So the price of the intake and carb was not unlike sourcing a F body EFI unit.
What was amazing is they took a truck motor, added the carb and intake, and with just a cam swap were pulling down over 500 HP.
One word of warning, the MSD ignitions for an LS1/6 motor are NOT the same as the LS2 motor. The reluctor wheels and location of things like cam position sensors are completely different between the two motors. I had the LS1 controller for 5 months before they released the LS2 unit. Little did I know at the time I bought the motor no one made a compatible ignition unit.
Also I am pretty sure the intake will be too tall for a standar JCI LS mount. I got my motor super low, and should have adequate clearance with the stock hood and a drop base air cleaner. Probably not an issue for you either way.
One other thing to point out. I bought a brand new LS2 crate motor. This is a 2005 Corvette motor with the carb intake. GMPP parts rates the FI crate motor as just over 400 HP and the carb motor at 441 HP. Torque is higher across the band for the carb'd motor. maybe there is something to be said for the open plenum intake manifold over the FI runners.
Brake line size
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Wouldn't delrin be too hard? Durometer I think they call it?
Would be easy to work with that is for sure