Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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The comments are good too.
One guy asked if the sell fake ABS lights.
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I have had a century welder for 7 or 8 years now. Never had a problem with it. People get a little too hung up on name brands some time.
The only problem I see with that machine is he doesn't give you much info on it. If he at least gave you a model number you could look up what capabilities it might have and how old it might be.
Talk him down to $400 and go for it. It must have a good feed mechanism if it welds aluminum. It sure has a lot of knobs.
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It is sort of a poorly worded sentence but I think he was trying to say the running gear is factory with the exception of the 5 speed trans. At least that is one way to read it.
How cool would that be, serial #383 with 383 stroker motor?
That car is a long way from being original. The body kit pieces could easily be removed. But there are a number of interior changes, like the center console has been changed and the guages are all white faced. A resotration would propbably be prohibitively expensive.
Perfect Hybrid material.
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I would like to know again myself.
What I remember reading is a spare from a certain year of Maxima works.
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Why isn't this post in the vendor's forums?
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The JTR adapters bolt to the diff. why would you weld it to a shaft?
FWIW I bought one of the adapters and plan to have an aluminum shaft made to match the 1310 joint on the end
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I don't know if it will fail, but I would worry about it throwing the belt if it flatens the ribs.
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Blue Velvet
Eraserhead
Kalifornia
Nanook of the North
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after the baby gets a little older and not so expensive, .
Jesus, man. When does that happen?
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I would look for something about 10 times more money that is in good shape.
Werd
IMO that will be cheaper than doing a rust rebuild..
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Looks really good in there.
What are you going to do about the hood?
Also I have *heard* the truck oil pans (I assume it is a truck motor) are too deep. Did you change that out?
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There is a big difference between California and Delaware.
They can make the car a handful to park also.
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That's all good info.
thanks for posting.
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I wouldn't want to deal with that. If you have that much rust visible just think how much more you will find as you start cutting.
Just make sure you know what you are getting into before you start
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That Porter Cable should do everything a guy in a home shop could want. 30 amps at 240V. That is a big mofo. Maybe you won't be sandblasting aircraft carriers with it but it would sure do me proud.
I have a rated 5 HP unit wired to a 20 amp 240V outlet (so it can't be a true 5 HP continusous). It will run continuously with continued grinder usage, but I have never had to stop to wait for it.
And I am a little suprised about Grumpy using PVC in his air supply. Check out the OSHA web site about using PVC for compressed gasses.
I don't feel so inadequate about my low buck shop crane anymore.
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Yeah, it bolts in. There is a list of required parts in the following link
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207
Nissan changed the tranmission mounting ears somewhere along the way. Don't worry about it. For the T56 to fit you will most likely have to cut them away and maybe hammer out the tunnel for a bit more clearance. Nothing to fret about.
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Hardware stores suck for fasteners anyway.
Try on line retailers like Mcmaster Carr. The shipping costs will be less than gas for two 35 minute drives
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You have to replace the innards of the tach. Might want to switch from an ampmeter to a voltmeter.
Plus you really should relocate the rear diff if it is one of the early cars with the foward mounted diff. Upgrade to an R200 in the process. That means new mustache bar, new rear crossmember and flip the front diff mount. You will already be replacing the driveshaft.
The series one cars have the fuel lines routed through the tunnel. Not sure if the later cars changed that.
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Good lord. I would have a coronary if I jumped in the middle of that thread.
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The picture was obviously taken in an emergency/hospital room.
Maybe the nurses cleaned everything up waiting for the doctor to come in and remove it.
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That poor baby. Hard to look at.
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Maybe not a direct help in your situation but ebay has several sellers who offer complete, car specific kits with all the stainless steel fasteners you need to redo your car.
Links have been posted on this site before.
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Up-down is only half the story. You also need to get it in line side to side.
I am not sure how you would do that with an angle guage.
HLS30-00383 1969 240Z ebay
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
In my opinion it was probably a marketing thing. "Four on the floor" was a big sales slogan back then.
5 speeds were only in those "foreign" cars, and who back then trusted those?
Other than that who knows. The 4 speeds were even slower than the 5's.