Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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That switch won't drive the guage because it is either on or off.
But never the less that is an extremely good article. That looks like a butt cheap way to build an adjustable fan controller. I might try that trick to control my high speed fans.
I wonder what the thread size is? LS heads have a small metric thread temp sensor that wont fit any aftermarket stuff.
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We used deionized water in the nuclear plant I use to work in. The water running through the reactor had to be absolutely pure. Believe it or not at 500 degrees even exotic stainless alloys will rust so fast they practically dissolve if the water isn't absolutely pure.
The trouble with trying to use this stuff in a car is it won't stay deionized for long. In the nuc plant even a few tablespoons of salt was enough to contaminate a few thousand gallons of deionized water. Unless you maintain the proper chemistry your aluminium parts will oxidize like no tomorrow.
Plus, Z cars need antifreeze to lubricate the water pump.
And there is always the freeze potential.
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We have a group of teenagers who go through every car in the neighborhood on a regular basis.
They only steal money. No stereos or even CD's. They even leave credit cards alone.
So I bought a wireless alarm system with two motion detectors
http://www.homesecuritystore.com/ezStore123/DTProductZoom.asp?productID=1017
http://www.homesecuritystore.com/ezStore123/DTProductZoom.asp?productID=1019
This thing is great. I put the base station in my bedroom with a motion sensor in the garage and one in the shed. The sensors are battery operated and have been running for months on the original battery. I also got a pair of door contacts which I want to modify and hook up to the dome light on both vehicles. I suppose I could use the motion detectors in the vehicles too.
Of course since I have gotten them the kids quit coming around. But with summer vacation coming on I figure it is only a matter of time.
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Are you going to do a restoration or make a hot rod out of it?
The Muncie's are part of my highschool dream, but a 5 or 6 speed makes for a better driver.
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First LS setup I have seen that got away with the Corvette alternator. Although looking closer it looks like that was a good bit of fabrication. You got that engine a good ways forward. I assume you are running an automatic.
How much clearance do you have for the radiator? Is there some type of cross piece between the rails where the radiator goes? I don't remember anything like that on my Z.
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Maybe a little more than $15 should you not already own the tap.
The tap by itself runs $16 from McMaster Carr (BTW, McMaster Carr carries Metric all thread too)
Why not weld the all thread to the spindle pin itself? I'm a cheap SOB.
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So in my effort to get the car done by next weekend for the race, I decided to bleed the brakes today. I had fluid leaks everywhere. Both fittings at the master leaked, both the front and rear TEEs leaked, the only things that didn't leak were my prop valve and the connections at the brake hoses. I remade all the lines at least twice, and replaced all the TEEs a couple times. I can't see anything wrong with them after disassembly. I'm using bundy-flex, or soft steel line, not stainless. Here's my flaring procedure, let me know if I'm doing something wrong
Cut line with tubing cutter
Clean up hole with tapered reamer, and deburr edge with file
Clamp line in tool with 1/8" stickout, and make bubble flare
Remove die and make inverted flare
I tried not crushing the flare down too hard, and then crushing the hell out of it, both ways leaked. I'm running out of patience with these lines...but regardless of whether or not I make the race (its looking like I'm not going to make it), how the hell do I make the lines stop leaking?
About the only thing I can think of is your die is suppose to have a little ridge on it you use to measure how high the end of the line should extend above the die. That may be 1/8 inch. But each die does have a different height ridge.
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Hot damn are you making me feel lazy.
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I grabbed the Taurus relays when I grabbed the fan. That way they have to be the correct amperage.
A starter relay will work, but seems way overkill for what you need.
The fan should have different sized wires coming out of it for the two different speeds. The ground wire is a fat wire that is common to both speeds. The other two wires are the slow and high speed wires (the high speed wire is fatter than the low)
You can just hook them up to your battery to test. Be careful cause the fan will move some air and jump around abit.
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Maybe I am obsessing a bit too much on this one. I seem to be getting people pissed off.
But one last go around to try and get some useful information.
Jon, you were talking side impact. I didn't have anything to say about what the autopower bar will do in a roll over. But something tells me that those sheet metal anchors mounted that far up on the chassis won't be too effective at countering the shear forces of a side impact. Admitted speculation on my part, but probably the wrong bar for the intended application. I would be willing to bet your 510 buddy would agree.
And TheNeedForZ, may be you should quote my entire statement. I guess the "One could argue..." catch phase went unnoticed. Probably my fault. I am not being clear
What I am saying is the risk of personal injury from not having an extinguisher immediately within the reach of a belted driver on a street driven Z is so low as to not be worth worrying about. I can’t believe I am out of support on that one since in my experience the overwhelming majority of people I know don’t carry one at the ready, so to speak.
And as for roll bars in a street driven Z. What I don’t understand is what do you guys know about Z’s being so structurally defective that you feel a street driven vehicle needs a roll bar? Does anyone on here have information showing a Z car is so much weaker than your basic Taurus or Corolla as to be unsafe? Or do you guys feel the Taurus needs a roll bar too?
I am talking street cars here, not track vehicles.
I can see wanting one. They seem like they would be useful for chassis stiffening on a dual use street-track car. But as for the question of need in terms of safety….. You have to have a reasonable estimate of the risk before you can assign need.
There is a lot of information floating around right now about roof crush ratios and roll over protection as a result of Ford’s recent lawsuits regarding the Explorer. Does anyone know what the crush ratio of a Z car is? How does it compare to other vehicles? Anyone have an old shell they are willing to do some destructive testing on?
You guys also realize just how low the risk of a roll over is on a street driven vehicle is? Less than 4% of all accidents. The injury rate is kind of high for roll overs. One document said 26% of the people in a roll over will sustain a serious injury. Still, on a gross average that means take the probability of getting in an accident in the first place and divide that by 100.
I wonder what happens to that number if you subtract the number of injuries sustained by people not wearing seat belts. Cause I don’t know about you guys but it seems like every time I read about a bunch of kids getting injured in a roll over wreck it is always the one who wasn’t properly restrained that gets it. Then there is the whole top heavy SUV vs. low center of gravity sports car thing. Seems like all we have to do is drive in a safe manner and we should be much safer in our Z’s than a Ford Explorer.
Maybe a bad example.
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Not cheap but still available new.
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0110.asp
Rebuilding is a PITA but given the prices above worth the effort. Mine use to leak, but I sealed it up with external weatherstrip adheasive some 15 years ago. Still working.
You could also swap in a set up from another vehicle.
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Uh... I carry an emergency kit in my truck. I don't have a roll bar in the truck, but the emergency kit is there, with the water proof matches, some water, one of those tin foil looking blankets and some food. Also I usually carry a pocket knife.
That's too funny. Not the fact you carry one, just the timing of the comment.
But the point is you need to asses the risk first before you can begin to determine what is needed.
A lot of what we discuss here is not "FACT", by a strict definition. That doesn't mean that it is not true. Requiring an unreasonably high level of "proof" in order to concede a point doesn't get any of us any closer to the truth.THIS is part of the point I am trying to make. I don't think it is an unreasonable level of proof to ask Armand to actually challenge some of these contentions rather than simply adding them to his list. Sorry Armand, not picking you out personally.
And I am certain not asking anyone for an unreasonable level of proof. In fact, the only proof I asked of anyone was to back up their own statements. I would honestly like to see the data.
One question for you guys, why is it everyone gravitates towards a roll bar when in my mind the biggest risk in the early Z's is the lack of door beams? The doors on my 240 seem like they weight about 10 pounds. I think if you threw a hammer hard enough you could smack the drivers knee right through the door. Is everybody REALLY so worried about getting crushed in a roll over, or is it just because a roll bar is so easy to install then why not do it? So by the same logic, you must NEED a roll bar in a Z to make it safe.
Armand said he is going to install an Autopower bar. I assume that is the one that bolts to the wheel wells. Hard to believe that is going to do much in a side impact collision.
Pulling my panties out of my ass for a moment I will say that I get a little obsessed with societies approach to auto safety. There are so damn many stupid laws in this country in a large part because people don’t stand up and say enough of this. Use a little common sense. Air bags are in cars only because too many people are too stupid to wear safety belts. Passive restraint. Now everybody thinks our old Z’s are death traps cause they don’t have half a dozen pyrotechnic devices surrounding the driver. Is it really worth adding a few thousand dollars to the price of every vehicle made just because there are people in the shallow end of the gene pool who refuse to use the most effective safety device put in a car? Why is society always geared toward protecting the lowest common denominator?
Yeah, Z’s are 30 year old, light weight sports cars. They don’t have the safety engineering of a modern Volvo C70. But that doesn’t make them unsafe and it doesn’t mean you need to start welding ♥♥♥♥ all over the vehicle just cause it seems like a good idea.
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An extinguisher is not NEEDED for safety on a properly maintained vehicle, but an extinguisher IS NEEDED for safety on a burning vehicle
I think a car is, or is presumed, properly maintained and problem-free.....until something breaks.
You know it is probably a pretty good idea to carry a cub scout knife and some water proof matches just in case your car goes off the road and gets trapped in some brush where no one can see you. It does happen. I read about it from time to time. You know, the whole "be prepared" thing.
See my point?
If you are truely worried about electrical fires then install a battery disconnect. Cause an electrical fire is just going to keep restarting until the power is removed or exhausted. I know that one first hand.
And no, even a burning vehicle does not NEED an extinquisher. What it needs from a purely safety stand point is for everyone to get out and stay away.
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I haven't seen any data that supports having these two items can be anything other than a benefit.
May I see the data? With respect to roll cages in a street car in particular.
I have been looking for something quantitative for years.
Do you have anything about helmets in a car too? Cause there are a number of people who have said it is flat out unsafe to drive a roll bar equiped car without a helmet and full harness. I would love to see soemthing to back up or disprove that statement.
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I stand by what I said. An extinguisher is not NEEDED for safety on a properly maintained vehicle. It does little to nothing to make the car safer. It is probably a good idea and might save you some money, but it simply doesn’t do much in terms of safety.
I could argue the safest thing you could do for a burning vehicle is to get the hell away from it. In that sense the extinguisher will actually make the car less safe. No?
Any takers on that one?
Like I said, keep the car in good mechanical condition and you are 99% of the way there. There is nothing absurd about a little common sense, unless of course you take the statements out of context.
....(properly designed of course)That is the brunt of my argument. What the hell constitutes "properly designed", and does that vary for street vehicles vs. race cars? How do you know if you have made the car safer or more dangerous just because you welded a bunch of pipes together with zero testing and zero lessons learned feedback?
And I stand by the false sense of confidence statement. When people start thinking the normal rules don't apply to them is when stupid things happen. In terms of pure physics a Corvette should be highly resistant to rolling. And yet accident statistics show they have one of the highest roll over rates. What does that tell you?
Telling this kid he needs a roll cage in his car just because it is 30 years old is one of the most absurd things I have read.
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You know I hate to continue to be a wet blanket but all this thread is going to do is get someone killed.
If you feel you need a roll bar in your car to make it safe on the street then you probably shouldn't be driving. The same thing for a fire extinquisher.
Race cars need fire extinquishers cause it is high risk driving. The risk on a street car should be SO LOW that they should not need fire extinquishers.
All this crap is going to do is give you a false sense of security on the street.
Unlike a race track a public roadway is a completely uncontrolled environment. I don't care how much work you do to improve the handling and safety of your car or if you can drive like a young AJ Foyt, you have no control over someone coming the opposite direction drifting into your lane or turning left in front of you. If you are going too fast then you will not have time to prevent the accident.
One other HUGE thing you need to think about. If you do get in a wreck and there is even a hint you were driving in an unsafe manner, then all of this stuff is going to work against you in the subsequent criminal trial.
Air bags are run by computers which need software tuned for the specific vehicle. Swapping them between vehicles is probably not a good idea.
The best advice I can give you is to keep your car in good mechanical condition and to drive defensively. Save the high performance driving for controlled environments.
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I think Daeron is right. Water injection allows you to tune the engine more agressively and still avoid detonation. Obviously on a turbo car that means you can dial in more boost and ignition advance.
A NA car doesn't have as many knobs. If the car is built with a low enough compression ratio that it doesn't detonate on pump gas, than the water injection will actually hurt performance.
But if you have a high compression motor and need to run it on low octane fuel, your options to prevent detonation are to run water injection or retard the timing. The water injection saves you the performance loss of retarding the timing, but you will still not see the performance level of running the engine on the proper octane gas with no water injection.
I should point out the 240 motors are high compression motors. The operator's manual says they need I think 95 octane gas. Mine use to ping under hard acceleration causing me to run premium gas and even octane boosters. Finally I realized my SU throttle shafts were gone causing the engine to run lean off idle. Switching to downdraft webers got rid of the ping and let the engine run fine on regular gas.
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Oh man. We ought to pool together some bucks then do an internet V8 swap on that thing. Post regular updates on zcar.com and watch all those dildos pee all over themselves.
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No. I doesn't attach to the stock cross member. Although a lot of guys run both the Ron Tyler mount AND the stock mount to completely immobilize the nose of the diff. I am not sure what that buys, but a lot of guys are doing it that way.
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Maybe that is why Nissan mounted the stock vent tank so high. Any overflow that goes up into that tank eventually makes it way back to the main tank. There must be a good amount of fuel that runs through the vent lines on a stock system. When the hoses were bad it sure did stink when I would take a hard turn with a near full tank.
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I wouldn't lend too much credibility to internet chatter about the safety of roll bars on street cars. When it comes to safety devices people, including ones on this site, tend to state unsubtantiated opinion as established fact.
I don't think anyone really knows whether a roll bar makes a street Z safer or not.
Also keep in mind the overwhelming majority of fatal car accidents involve a single vehicle. So the SUV mom on the cell phone isn't the one you should be worried about. The person you should be worried about will be the one looking back at you when you look in the mirror.
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I just put my Z car on my standard Geico account. They probably won't like you being 22 and all. I want to drive the car with no restrictions. All the specialty insurance places seem to have restrictions, like you can't drive it to work etc.
I only have liability. I consider the risks of this to be minor. In my life I have had very few accidents that were my fault. I don’t see why the Z would be an exception.
Full coverage or a stated value policy on a car this old and worth as little as our Z cars is a bit of a waste of money for the reasons stated above. Anytime you do something out of the ordinary you are asking for headaches from the standard insurance company bureaucracy. If something is a matter of interpretation you risk having them interpret it in whatever way will save them a dollar.
In all honesty if I had such a policy I would stress more about being screwed by the insurance company than I ever would about wrecking my car or having it stolen. 10 or 15 thousand dollars isn’t chump change, but it isn’t worth a lifetime of self wrath seething about getting screwed by an insurance company.
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My 240 had a vacuum switch on the port inner fender that vented the tank to the air cleaner when the engine was running or the crankcase with the engine off.
I recently cut the vent and will leave it open back by the fuel pump. Not sure how well this will work cause my car isn't running right now.
You may want to be careful about plugging vent lines. There have been posts claiming that plugging the vents prevents you from more than half filling the tank. Maybe you can get by with only one of the vents, I don't know.
I do know you HAVE to use vent hoses designed for fuel. Heater hoses will disintegrate in short order. When I first got my Z 19 years ago I went into a Nissan dealer and started to ask the part guy about the gas smell in my car when I turned. He walked away from me without saying a word while I was in mid sentence. Before I could figure out what was going on he came back and slamed the vent hoses on the counter and said "$150". Guess the problem was so common he had the fix memorized. He was the one who told me heater hoses will not work.
Killing a wild boar
in Non Tech Board
Posted
You also need to consider the type of terrain you will be hunting in.
Pigs like to hide in brush. In the woods a 600 yard scoped rifle will be next to useless. A heavy round better penetrates brush. High velocity stuff won't fare too well.
But a shotgun with slugs will stop just about anything.
I vote a 357 pistol. A be a man about it and stay out of the trees. Or better yet, get a couple of pit bulls trained to hunt pigs. They have jaws that lock, so when the latch onto the pig he can't shake them loose. The pig will run through the woods until it gets too tired to drag the dog any farther. At that point you can walk up and shoot them point blank with even a small caliber hand gun.