Pop N Wood
-
Posts
3012 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Pop N Wood
-
-
i was bored at home since the weather is so crappy and photoshoped the Zappppp and added a targa top. not the best photoshop but gives an idea..
Man, that is totally 70's.
-
I think I may have asked this before, but I know on LS alternators you have to put a resistor in the field circuit HisAndHerz talks about or just what you are seeing will happen. The warning light works a resistor, if it is a bulb. If it is an LED than that is not enough resistance.
Wonder if it is the same on your unit.
-
So in other words no one has any direct experience with that particular unit?
-
Try clicking the link Mario gave you and working up the url from there
The have phone numbers on there home page.
-
My guess would be chaffed insulation on the power wire.
These cars are getting old.
-
45 degree spark plug boots will clear the headers. Mustang 5.0 engines use 45 degree boots.
The Corvette LS2 uses 90 degree spark plug boots on one side of the engine, and these will provide better clearance than the straight boots.
Well I have an LS2 crate motor, which is a Corvette motor, and I know Vinh used a Corvette motor.
Perhaps I should look at the wires more closely. I was only doing a trial fit to relocate the dip stick. Maybe I got a wire from the wrong side of the motor.
-
They are using one on the Golf and Touran(van/MPV) in Euroland - it's a 1.4L TSI. It has 14% more power but uses 5% less fuel than the 2.0L FSI (N/A). Looks like they've used it in the Golf since '05. Also, note the 10:1 CR. (All my 'facts' come from wikipedia.
I've read it produces 177 ftlbs of torque from 1750-4500RPM. No turbo lag indeed.
I think the Volkswagen one has the tubo and blower running side by side with a flapper valve directing air into the engine from either the blower or the turbo depending upon which one is making more boost. Popular science had an article on it.
-
You are in deep kimchi. The JTR headers won't work with the C5 style mounts. The driver side works great but the passenger side will hit your C5 mount. I've made the same mistake on my swap but luckily I used the JCI mounts on my friend's swap. So I didn't loose money on the headers.
Yeah, VinhZXT is correct. You will need to make a new mount for the passenger side to move the mounting bolt forward 1 inch. It is not that hard to do. Just cut up some 3/16 plate and use the stock aluminum mount as a template.
I wish JTR would change the header to move the passenger side collector back a little bit.
I also noticed a few spark plugs wires were touching the exhaust manifold.I just noticed that the other day. How are people with JTR LS headers dealing with that problem
-
I read once that a spare from a Maxima will clear the 4x4 calipers.
I would like verification of that since I have the 4x4 fronts and soon enough should have the 240sx rear brakes.
-
Fuel injected motors are sensitive to the thermostat used
From this thread
Well, the newest news is that I failed emissions again! The idle hc reading was almost 4 times the limit (875ppm to a limit of 250ppm). I called the tuner to see if they had missed something, but his records showed every trim was spot on. So.... I went to an emissions specialist place today and really got schooled on LS1 engines. Turns out that all the stuff I've done to make the engine run cool are really problems. They said to reconnect my MAF water jacket, and to loose my 160 degree t-stat and put the stock 180 degree unit back in. The engine was flipping between open loop and closed loop operation because it couldn't tell how hot it really was, and open loop equals very rich. They also said my intake air sensor was bad, adding to the temp problem. AND the biggest fubar was that the shop who reflashed my computer last year was supposed to turn the back two O2 sensors off, but they didn't. So now the front sensors are reading at one end of the scale, and the rears are at the other extreme because there's nothing plugged in to them. Again the computer is confused on what to do, so it dumps in more fuel. Oh, and the two O2 sensors that are on the car are slow responding and should be replaced. So now I need an IAT sensor, new O2's and simms. Another $500 or so to piss away. I sure hope all this works, cause I'm about out of options and patience (not to mention money!).... -
In addition to an additive coat them with rino liner. They sprayed all the concrete block walls in the Pentagon to keep the concrete from becoming shrapnel in an attack.
Also use a lot of chicken wire or rebar when you cast them
-
I can't beat Spark's suggestion for cheap. If it never leaves your driveway that that is the solution. The only way you could do it cheaper is to find a muffler on the side of road.
MSA sells turbo mufflers for $49 that work perfectly on a NA Z. I have bought similar mufflers at places like Autozone for $9. You will need to get a double bend to go under the rear cross member, but from there on up you can almost run straight pipe.
Hit the local autozone and see what they can hook you up with. I can't imagine you spending more than $100 total.
-
It would probably help immensely if you posted what type and year of car you have and whether you are FI, carb, heavily modified, etc.
-
What do you guys think about Nuclear engineering? Seem like it would have a bright future considering the energy situation.
I did that in the service. Still have a lot of friends in the field. I have been wondering if there will be a resurgence in that area.
Trouble is right now it is a collapsing industry. The US hasn't started a new plant since the 70's. The ones that are running are being decomissioned slowly but surely. 40 years from now none of the current plants will still be operating.
I think the country will have to turn back to nuclear. The only question is how many years it will take.
It is also a tough life working in a nuc plant. Lots of testing and training involved. Worst part is those plants need to be manned 24-7. If you get on with one be prepared to work more than a few night shifts and holidays.
I see a lot of kids coming out of school with large debts. 40K to 50K seems to be typical. I went through on the GI bill and with money I saved while in the service. Lived with mom, worked summers only and went through a state university. Came out completely debt free. Got hired as an engineer and had my employer pay for grad school.
The military is always an option to earn your way through school. Although Iraq makes that a completely different proposition from when I went in back in the 70's. Did 6 years in a peace time military. Hard to imagine these days.
Can't say I have met many engineers who have gotten undergrad degrees with employer money. Get your degrees while you are use to being poor. Having done both it is tough to go back to school once you start working for real.
Having interviewed probably 100 engineers I will say don't get too hung up on big name universities. The overwhelming majority of the engineers I work with graduated from state schools. If you can get financial help, then take the money from the named schools. Otherwise don't run yourself into debt and just study hard. when it comes to getting hired grades mean more than the name of the school.
-
One last thing to think about is eliminating the stock mount underneath allows you to get the nose of the diff lower. This may help get the driveline angles correct.
-
An engineering degree is gold these days. Electrical typically pays more than mechanical. Chemical engineering salarys fluctuate to a large extent with oil prices but are often at the top of the heap.
http://money.cnn.com/2005/04/15/pf/college/starting_salaries/
If you want to talk about a reitrement boom, look into defense aerospace engineering jobs. This is a growing concern in the industry. The company I work for routinely makes offers in the 70's for new graduates. The other huge issue is you can't outsource jobs that require security clearances. A huge growth industry post 9/11.
And yeah, you don't need a 4 year degree to do well in life, but the odds are hugely in your favor if you have one. Do a little research on what a doctorates is worth in terms of life long earnings.
Geologist is a good, rewarding job. But be prepared to make considerably less right out of school than what your engineering buddies will
http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2005/VitaRymaruk.shtml
Plus I would imagine the majority of the high paying geologist jobs are working for the oil companies and not digging up dinosaur bones.
-
You need to lengthen the rod going from the brake pedal into the back of the booster (the one that contacts the reaction disk). Make it longer so that the brakes start to catch after a half inch or so of pedal travel.
I have no idea with an otherwise stock system why that rod would suddenly be too short. But if a "previous owner" is involved than anything is possible.
Triple check that reaction disk in the process.
-
...that if i run too cool a thermostat, it will flow too quickly thru the rad, thus not cooling it, ...
That statement is misleading to the point of being untrue. It is true the temperature of the coolant may not drop as much in a single pass through the radiator. But you will be moving the coolant faster through the SYSTEM, getting more passes through the radiator and thus should see lower temperatures coming out of the engine. Moving the water faster, within limits, will remove more heat making your ENGINE run cooler.
-
When I lived in California some years ago I ran a near stock 2.4L. I had some getting hotter than I liked issues with the stock cooling system when I would go up the mountain to Big Bear lake on a hot desert day.
I then puta 3 row core into the stock radiator, oil cooler, chin pan and MSA fan shroud for the mechanical fan. Never had an issue after that. My car also had the vents in the middle of the hood.
Maybe some so cal guys with a set up closer to yours will chime in.
-
, by the time I ran around and talked to various idiots on the phone all day,
You talk about the same way I do.
One call to a personal injurty attorney will solve all of your headaches. I am not a big fan of trying to cash in after an auto accident but I guarantee you one call from a lawyer and they will sit up and beg howdy.
-
Too fast, too furious.
-
It is hard to believe that door sill is so far gone and there is no rust on the underside. Start hitting things hard with a screwdriver and see what holds up. You may have to replace more than you think.
If you can find a car that doesn't need paint, the by all means start with that. You will easily drop over $2k and a bunch of time painting any car. Plus brand new paint can mean things like all new weatherstripping, refurbished decals, etc. Cost adds up.
But are there really that many rust free Z's in the Virginia Beach area?
-
The diff will twist from engine torque. The mustache bar contains the movement in the rear while the front is stopped from twisting by the front diff mount. So the upper mount is not only compressed but heavily twisted. On decel it wil be pullled down and twisted in the opposite direction.
Hard to believe both the upper and lower mounts are needed. But if you know people who have both then I guess the fact it is more quiet is good to know.
If you can't ask someone who has the GM mount (
), then I would suggest looking up the ES unit on summitracing.com and checking their cross referenced list of vehicles the unit fits.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ENS%2D3%2D1108G&view=32&N=700+
So go to Autozone and order a trans mount for a 1968 El Camino with a 307, or one of of the other 2 dozen vehicles on the list.
-
Those are vents to let air out of the car.
The early Z's had little vents on the hatch just below the rear window
Later Z's had them in the C pillars.
.
), then I would suggest looking up the ES unit on summitracing.com and checking their cross referenced list of vehicles the unit fits.
What is your Top Speed. On or Off Track.
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
I think it is interesting how much faster the cars have gotten since this thread was started.