Pop N Wood
-
Posts
3012 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Pop N Wood
-
-
grumpyvette always mentions the method of pulling the plugs and measuring how much Marvel mystery oil it takes to fill one of the cylinders.
-
the displacement of an LS1 is 350 cid and soome make 330 rwhp. Is this just a different animal with optimized fuel and timing?
LS motors have completely different head designs. The increased flow means more HP and bigger carbs then the first gen SBC.
GM recommends a 750 CFM carb with their 6.0L (364 CI) LS2 motors. But they also are rated at almost 450 HP. That would be a pretty wild first gen.
-
To add a question to those guys who have done it. How do the kit manufactures determine the length of each wire used in the kit? Won't circuit lengths vary from car to car? Or is each circuits a generous length requiring the installer to cut it to length, which means the installer does the final crimping of the end connectors?
Thanks
-
Shoot. All the home stores sell plastic templates that will do all you need to determine bolt and nut sizes. They are similar to a drill guage.
Measuring pitch requires a pitch guage.
Pitch guages are EXTREMELY usefull to prevent accidentially threading a metric into an SAE and vice versa. The two can look close, but the pitch guage removes all doubt.
-
Cheapest way I know to get a 2 core is to take your stock radiator to a local shop and have it recored.
Get on the phone and get some quotes. I think I had mine recored to a 3 row core.
-
Why is the caster on one wheel? Are they both the same? Cause if they aren't you might have some type of damage or mismatched parts.
Maybe you should post camber-caster measurements of both sides.
-
I would think buying a car sight unseen is more risky than looking at it and making an in person judgement about driving it any distance. But most people consider me to be a worry wart.
But thinking out loud what is 3 to 4 days of your time worth?
It is nice of Matt to offer his time and help.
-
As Jon said except I think there are a bunch of 10mm x 1.25 bolts on the car, especially in the trans, diff, and transverse link mounting.
I can second that. I bought a whole box of those.
Only sure way to tell is with a pitch guage.
-
How are you going to route your exhaust? Underneath those wings? I would think the starter will preclude running it over and behind the wing.
On my motor the bellhousing hangs as low as the F body oil pan. The tilt of the engine needed to get the driveline angles right makes the bellhousing the lowest thing in the drivetrain.
Guess the T56 is different.
-
I thought the reverse rotation was only if you were running dual engines/props?
I have always wondered what the difference between regular parts and "marine" parts were. In particular carbs. Marine carbs are somehow or the other Coast Guard approved. I don't know what the difference is. Maybe something to do with fires and gas fumes filling up the engine box?
-
try brokenkitty.com (johns z cars tx) got his mounts for an ls1 in a 77 280, fits like a glove, relatively painless to do
That won't work for a ZX
-
Unfortunately I think some are 1.0 and most others are 1.25.
You can't get a pitch guage in there to find out?
If you go on ebay there are guys who sell complete bolt replacement kits for Z's. Get some nice shiny stainless.
-
Looks like a nice make over. Can't say I recognize the car.
If you need an F body alternator bracket that has been machined to work with those Corvette accesories PM me. I had one modified then couldn't use it
-
You are not going to buy a car without looking at it anyway. That means you need to be there just in case you NEED to back out of the deal. At that point you might as well drive it.
-
I have a set of those on my old 240 motor. If you want I can look around tonight on my home computer for the pics I took before I pulled the motor. Not sure if that will help you with your 260 but I guess it couldn't hurt.
If I remember correctly my 240 didn't have a lot of vacuum plumbing.
-
Well, the newest news is that I failed emissions again! The idle hc reading was almost 4 times the limit (875ppm to a limit of 250ppm). I called the tuner to see if they had missed something, but his records showed every trim was spot on. So.... I went to an emissions specialist place today and really got schooled on LS1 engines. Turns out that all the stuff I've done to make the engine run cool are really problems. They said to reconnect my MAF water jacket, and to loose my 160 degree t-stat and put the stock 180 degree unit back in. The engine was flipping between open loop and closed loop operation because it couldn't tell how hot it really was, and open loop equals very rich. They also said my intake air sensor was bad, adding to the temp problem. AND the biggest fubar was that the shop who reflashed my computer last year was supposed to turn the back two O2 sensors off, but they didn't. So now the front sensors are reading at one end of the scale, and the rears are at the other extreme because there's nothing plugged in to them. Again the computer is confused on what to do, so it dumps in more fuel. Oh, and the two O2 sensors that are on the car are slow responding and should be replaced. So now I need an IAT sensor, new O2's and simms. Another $500 or so to piss away. I sure hope all this works, cause I'm about out of options and patience (not to mention money!)....
You know that is actually pretty encouraging that the emissions inspectors were first that knowledgeable and second that helpful. The changes they suggested will not only help you pass smog is should make your motor run better.
BTW, you don't need rear O2 sims. Send the unit back to the guys who flashed it in the first place and make them fix their error. If you ask nice they shouldn't have a problem making good on that.
-
You need to make sure the separate run and start circuits are not still wired up. On a points type car the ignition is run off the S terminal of the starter when the car is cranking, but switches to the separate run circuit via the ballast resistor when running. The PO may have removed/bypassed the ballast resistor, but that doesn't mean he combined the start/run circuit into one.
Try running a jumper wire straight from the battery to the 12 v lug on the coil. This will bypass both circuits. If it runs with the jumper in place but dies with it removed, then with the key still in the run position hook a volt meter up to the coil and start working your way backwards until your find the open/short circuit.
-
Well, just got off the phone with the shop the Z is at, and I found out I don't have A boost leak, I have approximately 6 or 7. all of which I never would have found.trust me, if I had smoker I would have tested it myself, but since I don't I can't.
Gee, you sure seemed to find a lot of self confidence once they found your problem for you.
Soldier on.
-
If you own an old car you simply have to be prepared to work on it.
And I think it is extremely bad form to have the shop do all the troubleshooting for you without having them do the work. You are messing with how these people put food on the table. They are charging you for their time and experience as much as for the actual repair.
If you aren't capable or knowledgeable enough to do the work (including the troubleshooting) yourself, then maybe you should serve up some rice and beans. Civics are pretty damn reliable transportation. You can use one to get to and from work while you learn how to work on the Z.
If I were you I would put off buying all the go fast goodies and use that money to get your car in good mechanical shape. If the intake stuff is rotten, then what kind of shape is the rest of the car in?
Plus, all that new intake stuff will have to be replaced when you put on the go fast stuff. So in effect won't you be paying to do the same repairs twice?
-
Am I backwards in thinking you have this backwards? If the cylinder was larger it would displace more fluid for the same travel. Therefore if you put an even bigger one on then it would grab just that much sooner. A smaller one would take more pedal travel before it moved enough fluid out of the slave cylinder to engage the clutch and improve your problem - no?
Cameron
I agree with you.
-
You're being nitpicky again and taking me out of context.
Well, no actually I simply don't agree with you. But in the end it doesn't really matter. I have said what I have to say.
-
The difference in elevation is inconsequential.
Well, no, I disagree with the statement above. I say the elevation of the pump definitely matters. I personally think that was one of the contributors to TonyC's problem.
The bigger worry is if the pump is higher than the level of the fuel, the fill line could drain back into the tank and the pump will lose it's prime.
-
Placing the pump all the way to the ground is not going to help you, as your fittings are not changing location.
....
Given the location of the fittings, the pump has to rely on the siphon effect to supply the fuel (not a bad thing). The only way you could possible further reduce the suction head would be to relocate your fittings to the bottom of the tank and then move your pump inlet to a position slightly lower. In this way the pump feed would be assisted by gravity.
I have to disagree with those statements. Whether the pick up tube comes out of the bottom of the tank or loops up 10 feet and back down, the static head at the pump inlet is going to be based on the difference in height between the fuel level in the tank and pump inlet. The only way the 10 foot loop will hurt you is if the lines have air in them or if the fuel is flowing through restrictive lines causing a pressure loss (head loss) through the line.
The static pressure at the bottom of a tank is proportional to the height and density of the liquid above it. Gravity does not care what the shape of the tank is, it works on the liquid the same way. With no fuel flow the shape and location of the fittings are irrelavant.
What you need to do is mount the pump so the impeller is as low as possible. I am not familar with that type of pump and whether the impeller is closer to the inlet or outlet. But I would think if you mount is horizontally you will be covered. You should be able to build a bracket off the rear diff cross member pretty easily. I make an L shaped piece of sheet metal that was sandwiched between the rear diff cross member and verticle plate mounting just above that rear control arm bushing. Trust me when I tell you you don't want to try and drill into that verticle plate.
-
I hope that is OK. That is about where I mounted my fuel pump. I did get it an inch or so lower, but I didn't want to extend much below the bottom of the control arm bushings. I used 1/2 inch stuff from the tank to the pump, including a 1/2 inlet and outlet in line filter, even though everything else is 3/8 inch. I haven't run mine yet so hope it all works.
This is an interesting thread
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120415
The guy went through hell and with all the changes he did at once it is hard to tell what actually fixed his problem. But if you look at some of the pictures his pump was only a little above yours and he had no end of problems. So IMO the lower the better and the less restriction in the pump inlet plumbing the better.
Another intersting thing I have noticed is the braided fuel line designed to work with those slick looking AN fittings has an inner diameter that is a good bit smaller than the el cheapo and/or twist lock black hose. I used the braided stuff for all the high pressue stuff simply because I had already bought it, but used non braided on the pump inlet side.
clutch master cylinder bleeder valve
in Drivetrain
Posted
I have never bench bled an MC in my life. My slave cylinder went completely bad and after 4 years of storage drained all the fluid. When I replaced the slave, I had to prime the MC by disconnecting the outlet fitting and holding my finger over the opening while someone pumped the clutch. This primed the MC so when I reconnected the line I was good to go for a normal bleed at the slave.
Hooking a vac pump to an MC bleed valve is a less messy way to do things, but I think people tend to get over elaborate when bleeding hydraulic systems.
BTW, spray a little WD40 on that outlet fitting to slow the rust.