Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Maybe there are no V8 Z's in Japan because 1) there are no american V8's in Japan and 2) the same reason we get low mile turbo motors from Japan:: their smog laws won't allow it
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Your tank has to have a vent of some type.
What I was suggesting is to look at your field service manual and see if any vent lines run through the passenger's compartment. If they do, check to see if they need to be replaced.
This includes the fill tube. "under boost" tells me hard acceleration. Maybe fuel is sloshing around and leaking out of a bad vent hose or from the fill tube.
I can't tell you what type of vents a Skyline has cause I have never seen one. But I can tell you Nissan wasn't opposed to running fuel lines through the cabin, so maybe they did it on your car too.
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I know they go crazy over Harleys. I'll bet they would get the same reaction out of American V8's
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You guys are all too uptown.
I've definitely hit worse....
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How are your eyes afterwords? I use one of the KMS specials that came with the welder, and my eyes get all skratchy after using it for a while because its too slow even on the fastest setting. Also I can't use my lights anymore because the reflection off the piece darkens the lens. I keep saying I will buy a miller, but they are so pricey and I don't know if they will be any better.
Fluorescent work lights don't false trigger the autodarkening lens. They also seem to put out a spectrum of light that isn't filtered by the welding lens making it much easier to see even during the weld.
I had the same problem when I used halogen work lights.
And I did modifiy my HF helmet to drap a cloth over the back to keep from getting blinded by the back light. but now I just put the fluorescent drop light right next to the weld.
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Go to summit racing and see if Energy Suspension makes a urethane unit for cheby mounts (most likely yes). they aren't too expensive, and the energy suspension parts have a captive metal interlock that prevents the mount from coming undone should the rubber fail.
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Save the money you would have spent geting John to recalibrate your tach and use it to buy the Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual
For $33.95 the manual will not only tell you how easy it is to "recalibrate your tach" (i.e. turn one screw from one stop to the next), but will tell you exactly what you need to do with your wiring and how you get all the sensors to work.
When you are done you can easily sell it for $20.
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Why can't you just insert the back of the driveshaft up over the sway bar before you put the front yoke on the trans?
Installing the shaft should be the least of your worries. Having it come off while driving because it is too short will create a lot more work than dropping your sway bar.
Just a thought
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Installing a set of Bad Dog subframe connectors will give you some added protection and give you a convenient place to attach your skid plate.
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The part came last night. Only issue is the connection for the sending unit is male, sending unit is also male (I think that's illegal in Georgia), gonna need a female coupler.
I think two males and one double ended female is illegal in Georgia also.
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Bart,
I installed frame rails similar to the BD units and to eliminate the sag in my car I supported the car with jackstands at the TC rod buckets in the front and the front diff crossmember in the rear. This put the engine weight in front of the jackstands and reverse sagged the body. Not sure this is the "best" way to do it but I could see the sag change as I lowered the car onto the front jackstands. I also used 2 floor jacks to keep the rails in place while I tacked them in, then removed the jacks and finished the welds.
I wish I knew then what I know now about stitch welding instead of seam welding the rails. I seam welded mine but now I know that it would have been stronger long term to stitch weld and use seam sealer.
Wheelman
Did you take 6-8 hours like John said, or something less than the 6-8 days it might take a doofus like me?
This might be my one "while I'm at it" with this project since I have the interior stripped and the majority of the sound deadening crap gone.
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240's run fuel vent lines through the back of the passenger's compartment to a vent tank that is behind an interior body panel. When those hoses go bad, all it takes is a few hard turns or acceleration to fill the interior with raw gas smell. I don't know if something similar could be happening with your skyline.
Why not reconnect the vent line to the charcoal cannister and see what happens? That won't cost you any performance.
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A lot of turbo guys use these. do a search on ls1tech.com if you want real world testimonials.
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I chased a coolant leak on my 240 for years. Finally someone told me the head gaskets tend to "weep". So I dumped a tube of green food coloring into the radiator, surrounded the head gasket with clean white paper towels and started the engine. I then put some cardboard in front of the radiator to get the idling car to heat up and pressurize.
sure enough the paper towels at the back of the head turned green. Since it was just venting steam I didn't have any water trails cause it would vaporize and condense in the air.
just dump a tube of stop leak in the radiator. That is what fixed mine.
The sucking sound is air going back into the radiator after the coolant has cooled down and condensed.
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I had a buddy in a 5.0 get pulled over by a cop in a 5.0
The first thing the cop said to him was "These cars are fast, aren't they?"
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I have no idea how you would tell what gaps were due to body sag and what was due to the floor metal being bent.
I don't know about you but at one point I used a 5 pound hammer and a block of wood to straighten my stock 240 "sub frame rails" from where I tried to use a floor jack at an autocross. On the plus side by the time I got done hammering the floor all of the interior sound deadener had flaked off in big chunks.
I would think Jon's sheet metal screws would be the ticket. When you are done welding the edges of the flange, you can pull the screws and plug weld the holes.
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Whoo man, I don't know. I guess if I were you my next step would be to hook a hand held voltmeter across the wires right at the inlet to the pump and run the lines into the passengers compartment. If you still have over 12 volts across the pump inlet when it happens, then you have ruled out all electrical problems.
How do you know it stops turning? Put your hand on it and not feel any vibration?
I guess one other possible solution is to always stay on the gas
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Thats the link sparks was talking about. There is no way I'm going to pay 700 for a flywheel and clutch. There has got to be a combination that works.
Then why not stick to a tried and true SBC swap?
Northstars themselves are suppose to be expensive to work on. I think someone once posted a set of rings run $500.
BTW, from that link it looks like $670 is for the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. The bellhousing is $375 on top of that.
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So I guess you are saying the pumps stop pumping (i.e. no fuel flow), but don't stop running? Cause if they stop turning there is your problem.
I don't think it is too small of a pickup tube. Even the stock fuel system should provide enough fuel for 70 MPH cruising. That should be true no matter how juiced your engine is. Or by "on the highway" do you mean flat out as fast as you can go?
If the lines were too small you might stall at wide open throttle, but the pump should catch back up when you go back to an idle (or restart).
How long do you have to wait before the engine runs again? Also is your fuel filter on the inlet or outlet side of the pump?
One thing, you want to mount the pump as LOW as you can, not high. You also want the suction side of the pump to have as few restrictions as possible. Pumps are better at pushing fuel than sucking it. But even with that you are suppose to have a filter on the suction side to keep stuff from clogging the pump.
You might want to pull your pump apart and check for debris. Pumps usually have some type of inlet screen. Maybe there is something there cutting down the fuel flow. Also cut open your fuel filter and check for crap, especially if it is on the inlet side of the pump.
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My neighbor decided to power wash the inside of his Chevy work truck in the middle of our cul de sac. We then had to use leaf blowers and manually disconnect and dry out each and every electrical connectors under his dash before the truck would start again.
I can't believe how complicated the electrical systems have gotten on new vehicles.
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Sounds like the fuel volume is low for some reason. You hit all the usual suspects. Could be a failing pump too.
Your post confuses me a bit. I guess you were running a Welborn pump with a bypass regulator and had this problem. You are now running with a Holley pump and still having this problem? You say the "pump still stalled out". Do you mean you know the pump is no longer turning or just that the car quit running due to the lack of fuel?
Did the car ever run right? Or is this just something that has happened since you changed your setup?
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http://zhp.satokikaku.com/zgazou/s.jpg
Or you could use the OEM fuel pump bracket, found on both US and Australian zeds (though not on all models). (Oh and also Japan... this pic not mine, but it shows you what it is) There are threaded holes on the chassis already. Its intended for carbed cars, but as you see on the pic, its a perfect place to mount a injection pump too.
Hope that helps
Ian
I like that set up. I had a drawing of the stock FP mount but it wasn't obvious from the illustration I had how it mounted. Also my 1970 doesn't seem to have the same mounting brackets. You can kind of see that in my first pic. There is a hole, but no bracket.
I thought about doing something similar but I didn't like how far down the mounting bracket had to come. I also was thinking about what would happen should a halfshaft fail. I guess the stock bracket will sheild the pump from that. I'll have to look closer tonight.
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I am not a big fan of the whinney bitch TV realtity shows. After 15 years of marriage I have had my fill of that type of drama.
I stopped watching American Chopper for the same reason.
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If nothing else buying a complete conversion will save you big bucks. Most completed V8 conversions sell for a fraction of what they cost to build.
Whether it saves you any time I guess depends on what you are looking for and how picky you are. A lot of the converted cars look to me like they are being sold because the builder lost interest in them. They often look like various shortcuts were taken.
Establishing a plan and building it yourself is the only way to make certain everything is done correctly for what you want to do.
Gas smell in Cabin...leak?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
My 240 tank has 3 vents and the fill tube has 1. They all go tothe same place: a plastic vent tank in the passenger side C pillar. That thing is vented to the engine bay.
I don't think there is an in or an out. The vents all work together to let air move from one side of the main tank to the other.