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HybridZ

zero

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  1. Ok, here is the deal. I have a 72 240 that I bought in somewhat rough shape. When I got it, many of the lights didn't work, along with the heater, and the horn. It had an aftermarket stereo with a nice-ish head unit, a non functional cd changer in the glove compartment, and two small speakers right behind the seats. I took it to my mechanic who got some of the lights working, but in the process seems to have disconnected the stereo. My main concern at the time was the lights, so I fooled around with it and got all of the lights working. At this point I realized that the connector for the headunit had dissapeared, leaving me with no way to power the stereo. In addition, I have no idea where to begin wiring a horn. I am not even really concerned about a heater, but it would be nice to get it working. Basically, everything under my dash is a mess and I need to get a horn to pass inspection (legal and from the parents). I have thought about using a painless kit, but at this point with all the lights working and with the car needing to be driven daily pretty soon, I would rather just somehow get the horn and stereo working with the existing wiring. Oh yea, and the car has drained the new battery I put in so I have to get it charged before I do anything. Basically I am asking you guys to give any advice or knowledge you have in wiring the horn and the stereo, because at this point I am kinda lost and very frustrated. Thank you.

  2. well, 4 cylinder bike engines are pretty large, i plan to build this thing pretty low so i dont really think ill be able to see around the engine if its infront of me. Yea I LOVE fsae cars they too were part of my inspiration, though i dont have NEARLY the money to build anythign that nice.

  3. I will probably have front brakes, but keep in mind that with the engine and two of the seats over, or close to over the rear wheels, this cart will have a pretty mean rear weight bias and no transfer under braking. Thanks everyone for your input. This will be an onroad cart because here in northern Jersey we have way more parking lots than parks. I may go with a simple front suspension, but definately a solid rear to simplify the process, and also to allow me to build a very stiff rear section to deal with the power. I was aiming for 600cc because I wasn't really able to find bigger bikes cheap enough; but now that I have been supplied with many links(Thank You) I will try to get ahold of something bigger. I would go with a snowmobile or skidoo engine, but the fact is I really want a transmission, I think it would make the kart a much more fun ride. As for the idea of putting a motorcycle engine on the back of a race cart, it has been done as Tim240z mentioned and it was part of the inspiration for this idea. I plan to make mine longer, and definately slower. Thanks again, and I will update this as I accumulate parts.

  4. Well, this summer a couple of buddies and I want to try to build something to kill ourselves with, as most of our cars are not yet completed. The plan so far is to somehow acquire a wrecked motorcycle, preferably somehthing like a 600cc sportbike, and design and build a 2 or 3 seat gokart around it. We plan to retain the sequential transmission from it, using a simple lever or maybe rigging a paddle shift and mounting the clutch either on the wheel, or building a pedal. For brakes, we may attempt to mount the front disc or discs in the rear, and try to get something up front, though front brakes would complicate things considerably. Tires and wheels will probably be proper racing go kart peices, as the goal is 100 mph. I will be custom welding this frame together, and doing the bulk of the fabrication work. If anyone has any sources for good wrecked motorcycles then that would be great, thanks alot and I will keep you guys posted about our progress.

  5. well, im not up for welding the skin in place because this will be a street car. I think i would be able to put up with door bars about like this but with less taper on the top tube, and having them continue all all the way forward past the firewall. 544529_53_full.jpg

     

     

    These bars are a bit too high for my liking, but same basic design, again continuing to the fenderwells.

     

    http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/544000-544999/544529_52_full.jpg

  6. I have a quick Z, nothing insane, but not slow. I bought it that way. The first modifications I plan to do are structural. I want to weld in subframe connectors, doorbars, a cage, and what else is necessary to stiffen up the car. Just out of curiosity, what part of the Z do you think is most prone to injury from accidents; where should I focus my attention. Thanks

  7. The engine work appears to be very high quality, the car ran amazingly when I had it running. I never really got a chance to stretch it out because of other non engine problems, but it seemed very strong. Wow, I cannot wait to drive my car again...once i install those struts, and steering rack....and get some brakes...and.......

  8. My dad has an 89, and the power is definately there. A few things to consider about the speed of the car. It is in a 4000lb car with a very docile 3speed auto and an insanely high final drive. Guys who have put t56's in them have reported very large gains in peformance.

  9. while this conversation is going on, i may as well ask how much power you guys think my car is putting out. I have:

     

    l24 block bored .4over

     

    72 head, ported, and 3 angle valve job

     

    Flattops that are flush with top of the bore

     

    Schooler cam no 483

     

    timing at the 3rd mark, or about 8degrees advanced

     

    straight through exhaust

     

    roundtop su's

     

    k&n's

     

    EDIT: I also have a 6-2-1 header that i seem to have forgotten about.

     

     

    Thanks

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