280Zone

I run Motorsports lowering springs and they are a nice improvement over the stock springs and lower the car just enough. Most of the improvement is probably due to be new and not being 35 year old springs. Cost is very reasonable and I think they are a good street spring rate.

http://www.hammondsplains.com/z/zworld/280zone

Not aware of any version called a Blue Pearl, only a Black Pearl but it was pretty much just an appearance package.

I have several door panels and center consoles too.

I know I have a first series vertical and I think I have a later series horizontal. I am in Arizona so shippping might be tricky so let me know if I can help. Already removed from the hatch so no fear of removal breakage.

Kind of dramatic but well done video and a nice car too. BTW I have LED tails too but my car isn't getting out much lately.

Us taller drivers appreciate the stock Z seats. If they are completely (and tastefully) restored and covered you might get as high as $300

I have some extras for testing. Are you in Phoenix or Oregon? I am in chandler 280zone@cox.net

But try this and see if that helps. http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&source=hp&q=datsun+zg+flares&gbv=2&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

email direct at 280zone@cox.net for pictures.

Thanks for the compliments. Mine is a catalyzed primer shot by a pro gun and painter. He has also done the hotrod flat black but that was a little too glossy for me.

feel free to email me direct to 280zone@cox.net

email direct for pictures 280zone@cox.net i am in Phoenix

shoot me an email for pictures and pricing. 280zone@cox.net

I have a few front spoilers I need to get rid of too. I am in Chandler just South and east of Phoenix.

But it is very handy in identifying which end I have the problem on. thanks!

excellent link, after plugging in several numbers from my slips it looks like 12's are a reasonable goal and traction is my problem.

"First of all it's "Hickl", not "Hickle" sorry my bad. My best trap speed is 102.32, I run a turbo 350 trans with a 2200-2500 RPM stall speed converter, and launching at about 2000 RPM

Are you running an Automatic trans and what stall speed converter? Do you have any burnout secrets you can share so I can hook up better?

As luck would have it, the daytime temps reached well over 100 on race night. Still getting no bite off the line all 60 foot times are over 2 seconds, best 1/4 mile run was a 14.0 I guess I'll keep adjusting variables and see where it gets me. Is anyone running close to a 12.0 without LSD?

FastZcars was on the money! The back throttle plate were NOT opening! Afer finding that I still bumped the timing up and checked the plugs. Plugs looked good not soaked or white. Converted the carb to manual secondaries and threw the slicks on getting ready for next Friday! So for a large two barrel carb I guess 238 to the wheels isn't all that bad. The air cleaner has proven to be restrictive so I'll run without it to see where I am at now. Current forcast for Friday is rain and 108 degree daytime temp

I have heard back from YearOne, they are suggesting to swap to a carb arount 700 to 750 CFM. Well you got the temps about right, temps during the Dyno were aroud 90, and our elevation is about 1100 feet. have you taken a exhaust back pressure reading at full throttle? I have no idea how to do this. did you degree the cam in or only install it per the dot-to-dot marks? The cam is degreed by who ever builds engines for YearOne. what was your total ignition advance at 3000rpm? 15 degrees what was the true F/A ratio? Dyno graph shows about 12 (percent?) at lower RPM's moving hitting about 13 at 5500 RPM what was the vacuum reading on the intake at full throttle? vacuum guage reads 8.5 In-Hg not connected, connected and at idle vacuum reads 20 In-Hg, full throttle vacuum reads 29.5 In-Hg go any pictures of the spark plugs? I'll be pulling them on Sunday. throttle blades are opening all the way? I'll check this on Sunday as well.

My exhaust is different than what year one uses for dyno testing, they used long tube headers I have Sanderson cast iron block hugger "headers" manifolds. The intake manifold temps were just over 100 (I am in Phoenix and our daytime temps are running in the high 90's). Water temp in the engine runs about 160 degrees. I can't quite figure that out either since I run a stock Z car radiator, no thermostat only a restrictor plate because of the electric water pump. I admit my exhaust after the manifolds sucks cause the shop didn't listen to what I want and gave me what they wanted. Going to the track this Friday to see what numbers it runs then will probably run a lager straight pipe with no mufflers next time to compare. Still waiting for Year one to respond...

The engine is a vortec 350 with these specs; Compression ratio: 9.5:1 * Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM * Recommended fuel: 92 octane * Max recommended RPM- 6000 * Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron * Crankshaft: Nodular iron * Pistons: Hypereutectic * Connecting rods: Powdered metal * Camshaft- Hydraulic roller * Valve lift:.520" * Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg * Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio * Cylinder heads: Ported Vortec * Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh * Valve springs: Heavy duty * Bore x Stroke: 4.030" x 3.48" * Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum with a Holley 770 street avenger, MSD 6al ingition, HEI Distributor, Sanderson cast iron headers/manifolds, electric fan and water pump. Ran the tail pipe sniffer and had a target of 13 Air/Fuel. Swapped out the jets a couple of time to get it consistant through the whole run. Sending dyno results to YearOne to see if they can shed any light on the subject.