Powerglide

The Thermotime switch simply provides a ground for the cold start valve (7th injector). Depending on water temp it will only activate the 7th injector for a few seconds to aid start up. It shouldn't operate at all at temps above 60 degrees or so. Once the engine starts, the water temp switch will alter injector pulse via the ECU to enrichen fuel flow according to the needs of the motor. I suspect your AAR (aux air regulator) is either not functioning or leaking air. It's only function is to add additional air into the throttle body which raises idle RPM during warm up. If it fails, malfunctions or is marginal---you'll have to manually raise idle RPM to keep the motor alive till it warms up a bit. Your water temp sensor is probably out of spec as well. Suggest you test and/or replace both. How much initial lead does the motor have? Is the centrifugal advance in the distributor working smoothly? GOT NGK plugs, gapped properly? Rent a fuel pressure gauge from Autozone and test running fuel pressure!

Of course.

Clean and reseat EVERY engine low voltage electrical connection including injectors. Clean the ECU connections. Replace EVERY vacuum line in/on the car. Make sure hose clamps are clamping. Check running (34psi+) fuel pressure. Check the Aux Air Regulator for proper functioning. Replace the factory fuel filter. Install a G3 filter between the tank and the fuel pump. Set static ignition timing to 10 or 12 degrees BTDC. Check for proper centrifugal/mechanical advance. Set valve clearences cold...then recheck HOT. Put a vacuum gauge on the motor and verify at least 16 inches of vacuum at 900rpm idle.

http://www.dumbestgeneration.com

Small block Chevrolet

Gosh...I think high 13s with a N/A small displacement-straight six is pretty quick.

Folks... A stock 1976 280z has solid lifters. Check for proper lash.

Mine looked like that on the pass side too. I didn'r skomp and replaced the entire rail. The rail was $300 shipped and the work was $1100. I'm certain it would be MUCH less just to replace the bad section on your car. Lots of the work entailed removal of the seat and carpet and moving the FUEL lines and clamps. REAL important when welding near a gasoline supply! Funny thing is...the rest of my car was solid too.

I put in some some Redline MT 90 and it stopped some minor gringing. Also thrilled with the results!

The system was designed for R12. It will NOT be as efficient with R134a, I speak from experience... Trust your gut though. 134a runs higher head pressures than R12. This can cause leakage. R12 runs with lower preasures and has a larger molecular structure. It has less of a tendency to leak. Go with your gut.

I live in Lake Worth, Florida.... HOT, HOT, HOT here. R12 is a MUST. You need 3 1/2 cans. Buy them off E-Bay. Will cost you $40 a can. Confirm with the seller that they are full. Don't use Freeze 12 or any other substitutes. OK...now the painfull part ($$$). You need a NEW compressor, a NEW drier, a NEW evaporator with a NEW expansion valve, and a NEW condensor. Also suggest you pull the interior fan and clean it as these old stock fans are feeble and get worse when they are dirty. Also check ALL your vent hoses, making sure they are connected properly under the dash. I strongly suggest you have the system flushed properly by a COMPETENT a/c tech, He'll probably suggest you replace the a/c hoses too. I also suggest you check the BLEND DOOR for proper operation. If it doesn't work right, you'll be mixing warm air with cold and will severly reduce your a/cs cooling. Check to see that you enginge's clutch fan is tight, too. If it all comes together properly, you should get 44 degrees---or LOWER---in our S. Florida heat at cruising speeds. You car's cooling system also needs to be in perfect operating condition to avoiding overheating in traffic.

I use Redline MT90 at their recommendation and am thrilled with the results!

Wasn't my intention to be pessimistic. But a heavy dose of realism is needed when comes to taking on a project like this. Stock picking and perfect dash boards notwithstanding...I'm sure youv'e heard of the dictum "start with the best car you can find" before taking on a restoration project. I'v seen too many people think that a little welding, bondo and paint will fix a rusty car like that. Folks ALWAYS think (and I'v made the SAME mistake) that they can get all this work done for less than it acutally costs. Take you best estimate and multiply it by 2 or 3 depending on how fussy you are. My advice with regard to the Z Car was to go for it. But he should lknow what he is taking on. If his eyes are open going in...well then SUPER. That was my intent!

That looks like a fairly complete car... But unless you are a good welder and have LOTS of patience, be prepared to spend SEVERAL thousand Euros (LOTS of money!) on welding, fabrication and metal repair. If it were here in the States and I were looking at it for a client. I would estimate AT LEAST $$5000 to $7500 in rust repair. Then you have to prime and paint for AT LEAST another $3500. Then comes the rest of the car (engine, transmission, suspension, interior, wheels, tires, chrome, brakes, hvac, etc.). Do do it right (a nice driver/near show quality, but NOT Concourse), you will spend $18 to $25,000 U.S. to redo the car. That is way in excess of what it will ultimately be worth. Only YOU can decide if that is a fair bargain. If the car brings you personal pleasure, then I say go for it. Just be prepared for the loss when you sell it. Or fix it, drive it SPARINGLY and hold on to it for 15 years. You might break even.