maichor

mas280, no it is not on the road yet. I stopped working on the LS1 for a while to put on the Velo Rossa Kit and work out the rear suspension. Christmas was good to me though. I got Brembo rotors for the front, that was a Christmas miracle for sure, and all new bushings and the G-machine setup for the front. I have finished the LS1 wiring and now I need the driveshaft made. Everything else besides the body work is done, custom CV's clutch and brake linkage etc. Good point Gary. you have to go all Vette if you go that way, unless you buy an aftermarket setup like the Vette but that uses the camaro crank pulley. Gary's crank pulley is very close to the steering rack. I am using P/S and I also have an underdrive pulley which is smaller. I have plenty of room there. Exhaust clearances are the tightest thing on mine.

I used block hugger on pass side, and swept on drivers side. Both are 1 5/8 which I think is sufficient. http://geocities.com/maichor75104 The top two pics are the rough fit. I don't have finish pics of them on the web. When I am done I will do a writeup, but if anyone has Q's I'm happy to answer them.

No it does not. It uses the same crank pully. The alternator is a small GM 1 wire setup. I tried using the stock alternator up there, but like you said. It is too big. I removed the plastic cover too, but I really didn't like it so I bought the new alternator. I am running the A/C with the stock style mini serpentine belt in stock location with bracket milled down ~1/2" stock power steering and the tensioner is were the alternator used to mount. If you want to use the stock alternator, try looking for a vette bracket and you could do this w/o power steering.

I was slow posting up on this one, but if you are looking for high passenger side alternator, I love the way mine turned out. It is from Street and Performance. You could probably also use there vette style brackets. It looks like there is room. Great job and quick!

If you modify the fron mount, you can use R200s from the 240SX which are a dime a dozen here in TX. You have to check to make sure it has the little orange viscous sticker, but I have seen at least 5 in the wrecking yards on Jefferson South of Dallas. You also can do the R230 the same way and I have seen at least 4 of those in the same yards.

The dimensions are different. The LS1 is wider by quite a bit because the angle of the pistons coming off the crank is greater in an LS1. Anybody know the exact differences?

Nice fix! I don't know if I will go solid yet. I think I will try poly. Let us know down the road what differences you find.

Thanks, I actually read that from the info you gave me but it is nice not to have to dig for it. I wonder how much of that applies when you program the smog stuff out of the computer.

Rear steer is easy to get rid of. You have your choice of using Infiniti Q45, J30 or Nissan 240SX parts. They even have a tough tubular aftermarket option. I will post it if I find it. The difficulty in doing the complete swap, is mating it to the Z unibody. If you are interested I can send pics.

Since a few questions have been asked and I have dug through the junk yard enough to know a few of the answers. The Infiniti J30 has an R200 rear and axles appear to be 1mm smaller in diameter than the Q45. Also, the CV to stub and diff to CV flanges are 5 bolt on the J30 and 6 bolt evenly spaced on the Q45. The Nissan 240SX has 3 tabs with 2 bolts each and has an axle diameter that is smaller still than the Infiniti J30. If the. Here is the fun part. The suspension geometry is the same on the Q45, J30, and 240SX and Skyline. And, the hubs of the Q45, J30, 240SX and Skyline are swappable, (except some 240SX's) provided they have the four bolt setup like this. The touring models of the J30 and Q45 have rear steering like the Skyline, but you can get rid of it by using non-touring parts. Also, then you have your choice of brakes from all of those cars. I used newer J30 rotors and calipers because they are vented, not solid like the Q45. Oh, and they are all 5 lug with I brake built in. All of this is only interesting if you want to use the Q45 with larger axles with the rest of the suspension. If all you want is the tough LSD diff, use the adapters that are being made.

Sweet! With the whole clip, you may be tempted to swap out the whole rear suspension like I did. But, you will be better off if you can swap stubs because it is a simple solution.

Bill, (Phantom) has the only John's Cars LS1 swap done at the moment, so he will be the best one to talk to about that. Or contact John, a search will pull up the info, I know Bill has posted it before. I do know that Bill uses a special A/C compressor and it is not in the stock location. The alternator is also tricky because it is right where the steering rod lives. I am using stock A/C but you have to mill down the bracket for it to fit. I got my brackets from Street and Performance. Cyrus and I both did something like what you see here: http://geocities.com/maichor75104

I replaced the dead slave and came up with a solution to the roll pin connector problem. On this new unit, I decided not to drill and tap the slave cylinder. Instead, I wanted an adapter to got from a GM roll pin connector to 1/8" NPT. So, I cut off the roll pin connector, mounted it in a drill and spun it while I took a grinder to it to get the taper for the pipe theads, definitely not precision work, but the maching shop wanted $80+ to do it and run a die down it. So, I took my die to went to it. First try, no leaky! Now I can reuse the adapter and not have to redrill if the slave goes out. One of the last pics here: http://photos.yahoo.com/maichor75104

Yummy! I wonder how many more years before mine looks like that? Great job!

Hey, welcome to the club! I don't know how much reading up you have done on the swap, but make sure you do your planning first. Feel free to search this forum and ask any questions. Good luck!

I know this thread is about moving an engine, but all the posts about lifting heavy parts brought back memories. I almost broke my back lifting The rear end from a wrecked Firebird into the back of my truck. I am no power lifter, but I am 6'1" 220 and not small either. But, my brother . . . My brother is 6'2" and I joke not, 154 pounds. One day I was pulling up to his house and I saw him dead lift a Dana 60 fully assembled with drum brakes, walk it over to his shed, and tip it on one end. I got to him as he was standing it on end in the corner of the shed but of course he didn't want my help. DUDE, the guy is my hero. But, I am his chiropractor and have seen too many guys in their 30's with disc problems. I personally have stopped lifting heavy stuff and bought a hoist. So, I scold him every chance I get because he still balances 100+ lb speaker boxes on his head while he mounts them with his one free hand. He installs commercial audio and video in stadiums etc.

I agree. I had the cross member with my motor and opted against it. It is very big and bulky and weighs more than double what my current setup does. Plus, with the amount of fabrication it would take, you are better off making your own.

By the way. Pay attention to how you will do both fronts and rears. You probably do not have enough room to drill the rears 5 on 4 3/4" center for Camaro wheels. You can do it for 5 on 4 1/2" mustang wheels. Just be aware that you may have to use an adapter if you want Camaro wheels.

You can get both 160 and 180 degree thermostats for the LS1 and program the fans to come on whenever you want. The computer programming will cost more $, but I think it is reasonable.

Is it really the twin turbo? If it is guys in Texas have quoted me $750. But, although I wanted the 3.7 ration in the tt, I opted for the Infiniti Q45 R230, which is the same except for gear ration of 3.54. I picked it up for $150 including shafts. Diff alone was priced at $100.

I'll chime in here. The wiring can be a challenge, but the wiring is like any other. Find out what the wire does and make sure it is connected to where is needs to be. My problems came from the computer not liking the way I tried to wire around the anti-theft system. Once I got the anit-theft programmed out of the computer, it started and ran beautifully. First time, no smoke, no stutter, no tuning required. But, if you wanted to tune, you can do it on the dyno without swapping carb jets etc., just type in your changes. Economy, maintenance, etc. become much easier when the computer is doing it for you. I think that is well worth the time and few hundred bucks to get the computer straightened out! Just my opinion. 8)

Wait a minute, I also just noticed that I am the average age here. I was born in April, so I am 31.6 years old. Coincidence, or twilight zone?

31, but 31 years at wide open throttle. I guess that makes me about 62?

I hear ya. My bro has an 70's Bronco with No PS no PB and running 35/12.50's. It is scary to drive since everyone if front of you has antilock brakes and PS. Still, I throw my question out to anyone who has PS AND wide tires. Parking aside, is overall handling hurt at all by large tires, assuming fair weather?

Great posts there about personal experiences with wider tires. But . . . I would like to know how PS changes that. My car now has PS, but I haven't driven it yet, so I can't comment. I bet Terry (blueovalz) could offer some great insight here! I am running 275's up front and 335's in the rear, same as a Viper. Terry I think has 315's all around which would be a much better setup. photos.yahoo.com/maichor75104