maichor

Turbomeister on this board also has a TT 383. He used to have pics posted in the album, but you may have to search for his posts. Here is the biggest, but the pic links appear to be dead: http://hybridz.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=27815&start=0

Where were you guys 2 years ago when I was getting my headers? Maybe someday I'll upgrade to 1 3/4". That's awesome guys. Keep up the aftermarket support for us!

Tannji- I'm not an expert, but . . . You don't have to do anything. Stock rev limiter is 6200 I believe. If you change the valvetrain, you can hit above 6500 all day long without floating valves. Search on it at LS1tech.com. Just about everyone agrees you are safe at 6K shifts on stock internals.

LS1 if you are ready to build now. But, since you are looking at crate motors and more$ for them, just start looking around for the LS2. You can get the larger displacement you are after. You may have to wait a while to pick up an LS2 crate motor. I would drop in a used (read cheaper) LS1, drive it couple years and then pick up LS2 short block. I can't wait to see the real numbers for the output on the C6 Z06 version of the LS motor. By the way, the '01 and '02 LS1 can be rebuilt once without resleeving. If you have one of those, you could do a lunati stroker kit and still be about the same price wise. However, if you have someone build a stroker for you look for big$ on an LS1 $10-15K. So, I still say LS1. If you want, add a 100 shot for $500 and you are still under budget.

Mine is an S14 swapped into an S30. Go here if you are interested. There are a few pics there. http://hybridz.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=37733 As for swapping hubs, tons of work an not much to gain IMO.

Yes, State Farm does have an agreed value policy, but you do have to have at least one daily driver insured through them and have an appraisal. Another option is American National. They have similar stipulations and their program is called CHROME. http://www.anpac.com/AmericanNat/more/cars.htm

Thanks guys. Here ya go. Oh, and the cat was my ticket to getting the Z to begin my project. My wife wanted an indoor cat and a treadmill. I wanted a Z. I got a Z and she got two cats and a treadmill. Guess what, she got higher price items there initially. But after nearly 4 years, I am way ahead of her now! P.S. ignore the mess of a garage. Same pics supersized if you care to look: http://www.theadairvillage.com/isapi.dll/c/content/f/viewproperty/siteid/jNsLAQ/contentclass/PICT/contentid/ZZZZZZSL/propertyname/Original/~/Halloween_107.jpg http://www.theadairvillage.com/isapi.dll/c/content/f/viewproperty/siteid/jNsLAQ/contentclass/PICT/contentid/ZZZZZZSM/propertyname/Original/~/Halloween_105.jpg

WOW! We have some great ones so far. I love reading these posts. It makes me feel a little better. Keep em' comin'!

Terry, I'm glad you are okay. And, your wife was not being selfish. She wants you safe. That response shows some serious love. Also, I am terribly sorry. I just started another post before I read this. Terry, ouch man. By the way how do you get Krylon out of your eye? At least I didn't get hurt with my mishap today. In my defense, I have been getting very little sleep lately. And, I can't believe it, but I didn't swear when the car went flying off the lift. There was no time to swear. After I got it shut down, the only thing that came out of my mouth was, "A thousand bucks." My friend, who witnessed the whole fiasco, asked what it meant. I didn't even know I said it out loud, but I was thinking that the VR front clip costs "a thousand bucks" and I was sure it was toast. Here's the rest of the story. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=38053

Update on the progress . . .Well, I used Terry's light trick. It worked great. I now have 2.5" from collectors to X-pipe and 3" from there. It sounds soooo good. BUT, I almost killed the car today. Has anybody seen Ferris Bueller's Day Off? http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=285255#285255 Anyway, I am trying to put that behind me. See if you guys can cheer me up with some comments on how it turned out. I myself am pleased but not exstatic. Big photos are here: http://www.theadairvillage.com/isapi.dll/c/content/f/viewproperty/siteid/jNsLAQ/contentclass/PICT/contentid/ZZZZZZSN/propertyname/Original/~/EXHAUST_015.jpg http://www.theadairvillage.com/isapi.dll/c/content/f/viewproperty/siteid/jNsLAQ/contentclass/PICT/contentid/ZZZZZZSO/propertyname/Original/~/EXHAUST_037.jpg http://www.theadairvillage.com/isapi.dll/c/content/f/viewproperty/siteid/jNsLAQ/contentclass/PICT/contentid/ZZZZZZSP/propertyname/Original/~/EXHAUST_036.jpg

I really have. Fortunately this one won't cost me that much. Here it goes. Well, I took the car to an exhaust shop to get some pipes on the car. I was pleased with the way things were turning out. The guys finished welding up the pipes, and lowered the lift. I started the car to give it a listen. I have mufflers with built-in through pipes that can run opened or closed. The car sounded awesome closed. I wanted to hear it opened, so I turn off the car, put it in first so it won't roll and reach under the car to turn the knobs. This is where everything went wrong. Mind you, I haven't had a manual daily driver in about 6 years. So, I was half-in, half-out of the car, which was still on the lift. I reach over and crank it without taking it out of gear. Well, you can guess what happens next. VROOM! The car fires right up an lurches forward. The lurch pulled my hand away from the key as I was thrown back. The front tires hit the 6" tall stops at the end of the lift and go right over, cathing a little air. Meanwhile, I am frantically yanking the car out of gear and trying to get my foot on the brake. I succeeded, but only after the damage was done. The car sat with the front wheels on the ground and the rear on the lift. It had also moved forward enough to push a milk crate into the corrugated tin of the shop's rear wall and pushed it out about 2". The car was still running. I shook my head in disbelief at my blunder. I sheepishly shut it down to survey the damage. I thought for sure the whole front end would be crushed (its all fiberglass). I was lucky. Drivers side=no damage. Passangers side. Small 4" chunk of my fiberglass cheek panel is toast and the rocker panel has a 6" dent where it hit the lift. Everything else appears to be all right. Talk about STUPID! I wonder how long it will be before I forgive myself for this one. We had shot a little video of the of the first run of the exhaust, but didn't get the incident on tape. Too bad because I would like to know how the car survived a 1' foot fall. If I had any ego before, it is gone now. I'll tell you this much, I will never turn the ingnition again without thinking of the horror and embarrasment that this caused. Have you ever done anything so stupid?

Wayne, $96! NO FAIR! Supply and demand got me on that one. He had no supply and he could probably tell the part was in high demand, for me at least. I'm glad the price has come down. I had them make my driveshaft. It came out nicely. If you ordered the part, be sure to be ready with the bolts. Stock 300ZXTT bolts will NOT WORK! And, forget about a standard hex head unless you want to grind off a corner to make it fit. There's nothing worse than waiting on bolts to be able to drive your car! Well, maybe there are worse things.

So as not to hijack this thread, please go back to the other thread. Once I have the car on a lift I can take some pictures that will be easy to decifer. More pictures next week. Here is the link: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=37733&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight= AND here is a teaser . . .

I had another request for photos. It is hard to get a good pic of the suspension installed because the jackstands only allow close quarters for picture taking. Saturday I should have the car on a lift and I will shoot more then. Enjoy.

Just proves how important tires are. Bill, when are you going to break down an throw some drag radials on that thing and go for broke! Seriously though, if he runs DR, watch out. You will see a much quicker car off the line.

Greetings. Well, it really depends on what you want in the end. What type of use/abuse are you anticipating? I started out my VR project planning on having a cruiser. It still is, but I swapped the V8 LS1 and decided I wanted to upgrade the rear suspension. I also needed to repair the floor and subframe etc. So, swapping out the whole rear end became a function of seeing what would fit. I wanted to keep the IRS, I wanted 5 lugs, good brakes etc. Most of all I wanted to use up the extra 10" with tire. See this post: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=37733&sid=79310342557f0fc715aaf32e425717ba I did a lot of measuring figuring, prototyping etc. All in all I could not be happier. I love the stance, Front and rear match very nicely with no wheel spacers etc. On the other hand, if you are keeping the 280 motor and you want to use 15" wire wheels, I say keep the rear end. I was going o go with wire wheels, but then decided that I would rather have the width in the tire and the wheels. So, I went with the widest wheel I could find in the 5 on 4.5" pattern. Feel free to PM me if you want to talk at length about what is involved in something like I did. I will give you my #.

The Q45 VLSD is a direct bolt in for the 240SX subframe. If you wish to use and R230 from a 300ZXTT you will have to modify the subframe. The width of the 240Z setup where the wheels mount is ~55". The 240SX is 60.5". Maximum backspacing on a 17" wheel is about 7". Total width to outside of wheels is about 67" for a 9" wheel. Mustang Cobra R wheels were used on my swap. I used a 10.5" wheel and that made total width about 69". If you went with an 8" wheel you probably could stick with stock fenders, but you will probably want flares. I used the stock strut towers and stock 240SX struts with the 240Z upper isolator. Bolted right up with a slight increase in angle over 240SX. But, this is unimportant because the 240SX has upper and lower arms and so the change really doesn't affect anything. And, ride height was fine with this setup. You could use adjustable coilovers just as easily. Note. Mounting points for the front of the 240SX are 42.5" apart. But, there are .75" holes farther up the front legs of the subframe. I cut of the front legs a bit. That left an opening in the end. I slid a .75" ID sleeve inside and put a bolt though. Then, I welded the sleve in place so that I could tighten the mount as much as I wanted without colapsing the front tube. The back mounts are 24.5" apart (narrower than mustach bar holes). It also mounts about 2.5" behind the mustache bar mounts. You must have the clearance to do it. It will be tight with a stock tank. You could get away with about 1.5" back instead of 2.5", but that will put the wheel to the front of the wheel well, like the stock setup.

I used just about everything. See my writeup here: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=37733 and pics at photos.yahoo.com/maichor75104 The Z32 subframe is about 2" wider than the S14 one I used. Most of the parts are interchangeable with the 90's Infiniti J30 and Q45. Including the short nosed R200. The twin turbo came with an R230 which has wider set bolt mounting in front and rear of the subfame. If you go this route you will have to adapt the subframe. But, since you have the whole setup, you can make it work. You will probably need some good flares.

Thanks guys. Mas280, sure stop on by. I'm ~20 minutes from Brownsville. P.S. Drive your Z or the RX7. Tannji- I started a thread with an unfinished write-up I was doing. It is in the suspension forum. Terry- I am kind of committed to the tips I got off eBay a while back. They are 6" X 4" ovals with a 3" straight pipe through the middle and a spiral outer chamber. http://www.powereffects.com. What can I do with these? Not the cat, I mean the tips. I thought the large scale would be OK because of the large tires.

I had questions again about my swap so I will post a writeup I started a while back. I will be adding to it. Let me know what you want to know and I can add it. Enjoy! Putting and independent rear suspension from a Nissan 240SX into and early Datsun Z car Tools Used: TAPE MEASURE, TAPE MEASURE, TAPE MEASURE! Hammer Pry bar, Metric wrenches Angle grinder Sawzall Drill MIG Welder Parts: R200 from a Q45 Moser custom axles Complete IRS from a 240SX, upper arms are from a Q45 because they are stronger and solid cast 240SX hubs were replaced by Q45 hubs 240SX brakes were replaced by 90-96 300ZXTT brakes Rear Wheels are 17 X 10.5 Cobra R wheels 6.95†back space Michelin XGT 335/35/17’s from a Viper What is involved: Cutting out a significant part of the rear subframe of the Z and reinforcing the area for the 240SX mounting points. Welding in plates for the mounting points. Centering and drilling holes for mounting bolts (I used the original mustache bar mounting holes and bolted a plate to that with the 240SX mounting points centered to that and with the proper alignment front to back.) I also moved the suspension back about .75†to center the tires in the wheel well. Stock Z has the tire forward a bit. CAUTIONS: Not for the faint of heart. This requires several trial fits with cutting in between. I did this on a 1972 240Z with a Velo Rossa kit ~10†wider than a stock Z. I am using an F-body fuel tank to go with my LS1. Make sure the suspension will clear your tank, it should. You may lose the stock seatbelt locations. I always planned on harnesses, so I did not try to save them. Things to remember: The 240SX subframe puts the differential on center. The 240Z has the motor off to the passenger’s side by about ¾†I mounted my subframe all the way up under the body, (i.e. as high as it will go in the rear.) What is important is to mount it in line with the transmission so your driveline angles will be as near as possible. How the concept developed: I started my project looking for a way to accomplish a few things. The Velo Rossa body kit for the early Z car has about 5†of extra width per side over stock. So, I wanted to fill the wheel wells with tire. That meant wheels. Try to find a 17†or larger wheel that is also 10.5 to 11†wide. That proved impossible on my budget. Instead of custom wheels, I looked at 5 lug options. At the same time I was looking to beef up the rear end and had come across the R230 conversion that some had done at http://www.hybridz.org. It turns out that I was really looking at an R200VLSD and not the R230. I later Bought a 300ZXTT diff (R230 with 3.7 gears and swapped it in.) Back to the story… I went to the junkyards looking for R200 differentials out of 90’s Infiniti Q45’s. I found three in the first yard I tried. I spent an hour and a half piecing together the rear suspension from a Q45 and a J30. All the pieces looked interchangeable. I found a 240SX (S14) with the same setup. I was very impressed at the engineering of the setup. I also stacked the subframes for each of the cars next to each other and found that the Q45 was an inch wider than the J30 and that was about and inch wider than the 240SX. I tested the Q45 R200 in the subframe for the 240SX. It fit. I went home and started thinking about the swap. I would have 5 lugs 5 on 4.5â€. I would also have a working Ebrake, larger vented disc rotors, and a very well designed multi-link setup. I knew someone with a J30, so the next day, when I saw her, I pulled out my tape and measured outer edge of the tires. It came out to be ~69†(Velo Rossa rear tub is 70†wide.) I also checked to see if wider wheels would clear the rest of the suspension on the inboard side. I guessed I could get another inch on each side there with the right backspacing on the wheels. I went back to the yard determined to figure it out. I took measurements of the 240SX mounting points to see if it would fit under the Z and where it would have to be mounted. I also wanted to take the best parts from the cars to make the suspension. The axles for the Q45 were 1mm larger from what I could tell trying to fit them in the J30 hubs. The 240SX axles were 1mm smaller. I looked at the mounting of the hubs and it looked like I could swap the Q45 hubs into the outer 240SX link assembly. I didn’t have my tools but I told the yard what I wanted. So, I bartered a price for the whole rear IRS but told the guy I wanted specific parts from each vehicle. Once we decided on a price, the guys in the yard helped me swap out the hubs. It was easy. I took the brakes from the J30 because they were vented rotors instead of solid. They bolted up as well. I later went with 90’-96’ 300ZXTT brakes which are a direct bolt on. Have some photos at photos.yahoo.com/maichor75104 If you have other requests, let me know and I can post more.

Nope! Terry that is just black gel coat covered in a thick layer of dust. I took that pick to draw in the exhaust tips to see where I want them. You are the master, any suggestions. I was thinking just inside the wheels but out as wide as possible.

:D It has been an awesome day! I have had the car so close to "test ready" for weeks. Today I pulled the jackstands and laid rubber to the pavement. I took my wife on the maiden voyage. We had a short run since I have no lights, signals etc. I had a buddy of mine tail us just in case. All she could say was, "You promised to take it slow." The LS1 ran well but was deafening through open headers. My wife traded seats with my friend Eric (Drives a 400RWHP Vette). I used up the 3 1/2 year old gas on the second ride. I put in a few gallons of fresh juice and had one more run. We went behind the airport on some empty roads WOW! It was night and day. The LS1 pulls big time. Even let Eric drive for comparison to his Vette. He was very complimentary. :flamedevil: Things that have me grinnin': 1) Hits hard and keeps pullin' 2) The car drives very nicely. 3) Easy clutch and brake work. 4) Car gets back in line well after going sideways 5) No leaks, gauges all work 6) Zero wheel hop. Love the R230 VLSD and suspension Things that bother me: 1) Some misfires early on, no more with new gas. Time to chang a filter. 2) Tons of work still to do. Exhaust, all body work, paint, etc. 3) I am not street legal yet so I can't really drive it around. One of the highlights was when Eric said that he had a blast and he thought it was very quick. He wants me to rent a tow dolly and go to the track to run with him! Frankly, I am amazed the car ran so well, straight, smooth, etc. I don't mean to brag, but I am pleased that all the hard work has paid off. 3 and half years worth. Remember, I basically have built the car from scratch. Even the Unibody is totally changed. I have the IRS from a 240SX with 300zxtt diff and brakes in the rear, shortend, custom axles, fabricated tons of stuff for the rear. Driveline is less than one degree off. I am running 275/40/17's in front and 335/35/17's in back. The rest of the mods are tried and true. 4X4 Brakes up front with Z31 5 lugs. G-machine setup for lower control arms etc. Motor is a 2001 LS1/T56 with 10K miles from a WS6 TA and is stock except 1 5/8" headers, cold air intake, LS6 intake (stock in 2001) and an ASP 25% underdrive pulley) and has only 10k miles. I also did the swap the hard way and have new fuel lines, brake lines, radiator, wiring, etc. etc. What a great day! I have some videos but no place to post them. Here are a few pics. My big ol' fat butt. My big ol' fat butt again strapping my wife into the harness. Me getting in for the ride of my life!

Speaking of adapting the 6 bolt R230 300ZXTT, You do not have to machine your own adapter. There is a nice one you can get from Powertrain Industries. They are used to convert to a one-piece driveshaft, (the ZX had a 2-piece with weird joint in back). However, they are always backordered and takes about 1-2 months. Plan ahead and order it early in your swap. EDIT: Uses a 1310 series U-joint. Here is the contact: Part #3102-42 http://www.powertrainindutries.com (714) 893-4585 7532 Anthony Ave. Garden Grove, CA 92841 Price is steep at $116. You will also have a hard time finding 10 X 1.25 X 25 Allen head bolts. The round head is necessary to clear the yoke. I searched everywhere and finally went with Gardner Wescott 1-800-521-9805. 10 X 1.25 X 30 Chrome grade 8 was all they had and were $2.46 each! But they look cool! P.S. I can't believe this thread is still alive!

Rowing through the gears is a blast. The control is nice. But, if you want to be in the 11 second club, you will have a harder time with the T56. I have ridden with Phantom and Lonestar1. The auto is quite a bit quicker. Sorry Bill! Case in point- one of my friends has a manual C5 Vette FRC with 400RWHP. His dad liked the car so much, he bought an auto C5 and put the same mods on the car. Results: Manual C5: low 12's. AutoC5: High 10's You can be in the 11 second club with the T-56, but you can do it much easier with the auto. That said, I went with the 6-speed!

No kill in this story but, as long as we are telling stories . . . About 10 years ago my brother had a built Mustang. He drives fast. All the time fast. You know, too fast to ride with because you are afraid of dying. Anyway, one day he heads off to the local college for a class he was taking. He wasn't really late, just likes to drive fast. He flies though a light and there was an undercover detective to his right waiting to turn. The detective takes off after him but the college is accross town and you have to zig zag a few blocks to get there. So, my clueless brother just keeps flying down these surface streets at 80+ mph. Meanwhile the detective totally lost him and radios for back up. 3 more cops saw him from a block away as he flies through several more intersections. He never saw any of them. 5 minutes later he pulls up to the college and hops out with his book bag and three cop cars and the detective come screeching into the parking lot, come sliding to a stop all around him and all pull their guns on him. : He got his license suspended, several, hundred dollar wreckless diriving ticket, and some soiled briefs. I guess he looked so surprised that the cops believed him when he said he didn't know they were trying to pull him over. He was lucky not to get nailed with evading or worse!