91_4x4runner

Yup, I was planning to try the gas can method next time I'm near the car (hopefully soon). Thanks for the info on the acid.

Where did they find it? Is there going to be a news article online about it? Details!

I figured I should update this thread after its long hiatus. I'm still not sure that the ECU is good, but I can say with almost 100% certainty that I have a clogged fuel tank (happened progressively). The fuel pump is drawing a decent amount of vacuum but the with the tank feed line disconnected (and 10 gallons of fresh gas in the tank), I'm getting no flow. I'm going to drop the tank next time I'm in San Antonio and clean it up. Hopefully this will solve some of my issues. I've read that the best way to clean it out is with muriatic acid. Where's the best place to get some?

Thank goodness...

Even still, being a young whippersnapper myself (20), seeing the cars in the two videos posted in this thread makes me want to throw up my pancakes...

I can understand a "perfect" Z going for a good high price. My girlfriend's uncle has a cherry 73 240Z. He bought it brand new during his stint in the Army. It is literally perfect on all corners. It sits in a garage 24 hours a day under a car cover. I could easily see it going for 20K. Maybe, one day, I'll get to drive it.

Yes, I have fuel pressure. I had a clogged fuel rail at one point, so I removed the whole setup and swapped in another fuel rail. After that, I assumed my problem was the fuel injectors themselves, so I bought a brand new set. The system is partially working, because the cold-start injector fires once when cranking. However, no fuel comes out of the return line regardless of pressure duration or cranking. Most of my relays are bad and I had hard-wired them for the time being (bad idea, I know, but should work in theory). My fuel pump is also hard-wired to a switch for the time being (another bad idea, I know). I also replaced my drop-resistors with a junkyard set. I need to simply devote more time to it, but a noid light should help in diagnosis and I believe a new ECU may solve the problem. Thanks for all your help. Sparky, can you PM me your information? I should be making a trip to SA this coming weekend (November 6-8). Perhaps I could purchase that ECU from you. Thanks, Eric.

I hope to keep this post from getting too drawn out, but here's my issue. I've got a 1978 280Z that I began rebuilding over the summer. I stripped and rebuilt the suspension with new parts and bushings. I swapped to 4Runner front brakes and Mustang rear brakes. I disassembled almost everything from the engine back and put it back together. Here's a photo for reference: The drivetrain is practically finished minus a few nuts and bolts. However, after doing all that work, I began focusing on the engine. I cannot get the bloody thing to start. I've checked all the connections from the EFI bible and the Z Tech manual. Everything tests within range at the ECU connector, but the damned thing just won't start. It seems to me that the injectors are not firing at all (nor do they show positive voltage when the ignition is on). This leads me to believe my issue is with the ECU itself. Is there anyone out there with some knowledge or some free time to help me out with my car over the winter? Does anyone have a spare 280Z L28(manual) ECU for sale in the Texas area? I'm currently in College Station and the car is in San Antonio; I'm just trying to formulate a plan to get my car on the road soon. Thanks y'all, Eric.

As the title says, I need a stock ECU for my '78 280Z. Obviously, it needs to be functional. Let me know if you've got one. Thanks, Eric.

It's a longer car with a longer wheelbase and probably less wheel angle at full lock. It's a characteristic of the car that probably isn't worth attempting to change. I imagine you'd have to make huge modifications to DECREASE your overall turn radius.

I don't mean to bump/triple post, but I need to know what kind of signal I should see at the injectors... Some sources say 12V; I don't have that. I see no voltage change while the ignition is on or the engine is cranking. It stays at 0V.

What kind of signal should I see at the injectors? Should they have 12V? Should they read a certain resistance? I replaced my drop resistors and it didn't help. I'm hoping my computer isn't broken, but its starting to look like it is...

Alright. Found the EFI relay on the 78. Its on the relay bracket under the hood. I was reading the wiring diagram to be Blue/Green instead of Blue(switch wires)Green. Obviously, I'm an idiot. After that was over, I retested my relay. Turns out, it doesn't make a 100% connection and the ground is flakey on it. I rigged it up and tested at the ECU. I'm getting a good 12V at all fuel injectors and ECU power. However, when I test at the injector connectors, I get 0V with the key in any position. Shouldn't I be getting some voltage in the ON position or while its cranking? I guess this limits everything down to my ECU or the dropping resistors.. Anyone have any ideas or information they could share? I *assume* my ECU is alright since my cold start injector will fire when the engine just starts cranking.

As it turns out, the 77 EFI relay is different from the 78 EFI relay. According to my manual (Haynes or Chilton, can't remember which), the 78 model has a smaller EFI relay with fewer pins and uses other relays (Fuel pump relays 1 & 2) to control other things. Problem is, I'm missing my Fuel Pump 2 Relay and still can't find my EFI relay according to the colors and wire diagrams. I've disassembled, tested and reassembled just about every relay I can get my hands on under the dash. None of them make a difference. I'm going to pick-n-pull tomorrow to find a new drop resistor. It might not work (as much of my pick-n-pulls stuff is crap) but who knows. I feel like pushing my car off a cliff....

I found the area where its supposed to be installed in the car. I see the mounts for it, but it simply isn't there. Again, I don't see any unused plugs either. Did the location change on the 78 model? The closest thing I could find to a "double relay" unit (2 relays in one box) is in the engine bay in the relay box by the battery. However, it only has 5 plugs.