SkunkTeeth

Check the last post out: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141678&highlight=240sx+speedometer

Just another wideband is pretty cheap http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm

I just bought some new injectors off ebay for my NA 76 280z. 5 of the injectors have nothing in the shaft, but one has a white thing inside. I have attached pictures. Which style is correct? Should I take the white thing out?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SMEC14B/10-2163

Heres what I did....got them to match as best as I could. 1 box on each side. Made out of wood with odd angled cuts. Only speakers in my car and they sound great. I know having tweeters next to the speaker isnt the best but my options were limited

Did the same thing as chrism but with machined pieces

You might want to resand the texture layer....you gotta scuff it when its tacky.

I repainted the glove box door with sem trim black so the color matches great, also painted the rear metal trim piece with the same color. As for the charge...im not sure because it all depends on the condition of the dash. I would probably log my time and charge an hourly rate. But I do not know how much to charge in that respect because I never logged my time, and it also took a long time as it was my first time doing something like this. I would obviously keep the cost much lower than having it professionally refinished. If someone wants to try it out with me I would be happy to. But things to remember are I am limited it on time. I can only work on it on weekends so figure a month or more.

Im sure you COULD use bondo but I do not think it would be a good idea. For one it might be difficult to fill holes. The good thing for the foam is you just tape it up and then fill it with the expanding foam. I also think the bondo would be too rigid, some flexibility is good.

For me the differential fill plug on mine was real easy. But the transmission fill plug was a big pain, ended up putting the wrench semi horizontal then jacking under it to get it loose. Worked like a charm!

Im still working on that haha, I looked at the write up here and it doesnt seem to be working for me. Ill be happy to do a dash for someone, but dont expect it done fast. I got this dash and started the restoration around November 07. Not enough time with still going to school and working as a full time engineer. Thanks for all the compliments everyone.

I thought about grafting in a gage pod somehow, but the only things I am missing from stock is a voltmeter and clock. The clock is handled by my head unit, and for the voltmeter I got this to replace the fasten seat belt light: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=350084717917 I also have aftermarket A/C with the knob on the console, but I am moving it to the cigarette lighter slot with a longer knob I made

Could you use sem trim black instead of landau? Or is trim black just for plastic?

My mistake, the autometer guides are on here. But the dash repair was on classicz http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23919 Haha I can do it, after doing this one I got my method down and could do one pretty quick.

Thanks to this board, I was able to finish my autometer install in my dash that I repaired using the foam + epoxy method. I repaired it about 2 months ago and it has not cracked again.

The two white unconnected wires at the ecu are correct. I saw that on mine and checked in the FSM. I believe the red and green wires go to the egr solenoid?

He has a history on forums. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123612&highlight=datsun-parts

here is the actual pic http://www.pdkfabrication.com/Photos/DSC01224.JPG

Wow, that look really good. Great idea. And just a point about bolts and yield strength. When designing bolts use the proof strength (generally 90% of the yield in most cases). For a grade 8 bolt the proof is 120ksi. The tensile area of a 3/4" bolt is .334 sqin which means a force of ~40000 lbf would cause the bolt to fail, you should be fine , even with fatigue

Nice thats similar to what I did with my speakers, but they are just in vinyl covered boxes to match the strut towers.

I haven't forgot about this, I have just been busy fixing my car and with school.

I just got my car back so I will be running prototypes to test the fitting. I will look into demand, if it is large enough I might be able to get a mold made for plastic injection... I should have some initial prototypes that are just unfinished plastic to test for fitting by the end of this week. First 3 people to reply will get samples

I modeled up my chrome piece that finishes the door handle on my 280z. The chrome plastic is flaking like on most of the ones you find today. I am going to be running some in a stereo lithography machine to test the fitment on my armrests. After the fit is perfect I will be sending some out to get chrome metalized at a company I found that has reasonable prices. I figure I might as well do alot of them. Would anyone be interested in them? Here is the model so far:

Is that a dash cap?

I will check out the coil, but I have a MSD sticker under my hood from the PO but the coil does not look like it is the MSD blaster. It also has the fireball xr3000. Another weird symptom. I was driving today with the AC on. When it was could and I would tap the gas, the idle drops to about 500 then goes back up. Then will constantly bob up and down from 700-1000, and there would be that same misfire sporadically. But when I almost got to work the idle would stay steady and there was no misfire. Sometimes when its warm its good and sometimes its bad I guess. It seems when it is cold outside in the morning it runs good when the motor is still warming up. But in the afternoon when it is warm outside and the engine is cold it will misfire. This is why I am thinking it may be the water temp sensor.