SDgoods

My car meets all of your criteria except the heater. The heater core is still in the car though. Im lowering the price once i take my seats and roll bar out... http://www.zcar.com/cars_sale_1970-83_240z_260z_280z_280zx/modified_1971_240z_socal_905988.msg2761734.html#new Lmk if ur interested

Like it says, im looking for stock body specs Hayashi (HRE) 501s or 505s , 15 or 16s. they don't have to be perfect, just true and straight. they can be rough on the outside, let me see what you have!

You can space it out with washers, probably a significant amount FWIW, when I put the wheels on and was at its current ride height, I couldn't turn the wheel more than like 90 degrees as it would completely push on the whole fender flare. im 5 collar rotations up from that now with the spacer and have plenty of room

225/50/15

I'll get some today or tomorrow.

Funny you say that, ive been meaning to do it! thanks one more

I'm not sure if anyone's done this as I searched and couldn't find anything... my fronts are 15x10 -25 on a 225/50/15. I didn't want to cut the facia and trim the fiberglass fender as many do. I had to significantly raise the front to not rub and i like a semi low ride height. A friend of mine (some of you may know him by JSP, famous in the ae86 world) figured it out after applying the old ae86 trick of making brackets to push the fenders out. This nut between the body and headlight bucket (?) effectively pushes out the front of the fender and allowed me to easily lower the ride height and have plenty of clearance. You could push it out even more with some washers. The bolt usually just screws into the bucket, so all this is doing is spacing it out. The downside is the headlights from the front are slightly cocked to the side, and unless you look for it, you don;t really notice. Hope this helps some of you out! I'll get some more pics of the extra room and cocked headlight.

15x10 -25 diamonds powdercoated HRE gloss gold

Had a real hard time with mine too. Pb blaster, torched it etc etc.. Ended it up having it sit horizontally in the vice, had a wrench on the top threads and a nut holding it on and just banged on the wrench with a hammer while continuously applying pb blaster!

^^ your car looks incredible!!! some quick ones of mine after my new wheels, wide zgs and MSA victory real photos to come soon

Like title says i need late maxima caliper brackets for my 280zxt disc conversion. let me know!

Im still lookin for a l28et!!

bumpp

I figured it out. for whatever reason when i rotated it on my own it turned 180 degrees, I just lubed up the cylinder and before where it wouldn't rotate anymore it was able to rotate with some lubrication. Thanks for your help guys!

FWIW, this is my daily driver. While it is a 'project', it's not a project that I can have sitting for weeks at a time. That being said It is currently running so I could just gather all the parts and wait till i have everything, but why make it more difficult than it has to be? Im holding off on the motor right now to see what others are going for. Im simply getting peoples opinions because I personally have no clue how much it takes to get it running properly, hence my post.

damn those look awesome

thanks for the input everyone, ill hold off for right now and let him sit on it for a bit!

With the door open it doesnt rotate and 'snap' into place like the driver side does. i can rotate it and hold it with my fingers, but when the door handle or interior release is pulled it snaps back to the far clock-wise position, which is completely facing the wrong way for it to latch. I figured i needed a new mechanism but I will lubricate it first. I think its broken. Where do you lubricate it? the external part or internal? Thanks for the quick reply

Hes convinced its worth even more than 2k. I think I might do it if he literally gives me everything I need to have it running. I might be overpaying a little but for it to be straight forward and not a potential major hassle it might be worth it. That is, if he doesn't sell the car as a whole as he has people looking at it today.

71 240z. I rotated the little mechanism that latches the door to the catcher and now the door won't latch. I can see why as on the driver door that works, (i will call it the rubber part), when you close the door the catcher pushes the rubber part which rotates the assembly and latches the door. My passenger side will only rotate counter-clock wise this far, which doesn't allow the assembly to be rotated when you close the door. And when rotated clock-wise easily and naturally seats back into this position: \ I believe the correct position would be picture #1 rotated counter clock wise so the rubber piece is on the bottom with the striking edge facing towards the inside of the car. Any thoughts as to why it wont rotate to the correct position??? I have looked at threads, however cant find anything on the door mechanism gets stuck and is like 90-180 degrees off of its normal position Any help would be greatly appreciated Daniel

Thanks for the replies guys. From what I understand its mostly stock. I actually called the shop that rebuilt the head, they are called the dyno shop. He originally brought it in and while tuning it the headgasket blew a small hole, not enough for oil and coolant to even mix. The head was machined and rebuilt stock spec. The cylinder walls and everything else they could see with the head off looked good. It might have an aftermarket clutch but really not sure about other specifics. I've read the turbo clutch is recommended, I think he told me it was an aftermarket clutch, ill find out

Thanks for the replies guys. From what I understand its mostly stock. I actually called the shop that rebuilt the head, they are called the dyno shop. He originally brought it in and while tuning it the headgasket blew a small hole, not enough for oil and coolant to even mix. The head was machined and rebuilt stock spec. The cylinder walls and everything else they could see with the head off looked good. It might have an aftermarket clutch but really not sure about other specifics. I've read the turbo clutch is recommended, I think he told me it was an aftermarket clutch, ill find out

So heres the scoop. I was actually going to buy this l28et 240z a month ago but bought 1971 Z with dual Z therapy SU's L28. The owner of the first car is willing to sell me the ET which is mostly stock and has a recently rebuilt head. I drove the car myself so I know the engine pulls strong. He's willing to give me everything I need to directly swap the motor to my car including the motor/harness/tuned meqasquirt (200whp). I feel like 2000 is way too high, but for the ability to pretty much swap it right over, is it worth it? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Daniel P.S ive done my fair share of research. I know the engines are going in the $3-500 range, however this particular situation is different than most threads/questions i've found on the forums.