SDgoods

Yes they should be the same. Im hopefully getting a spare maf this week but if you get some extra time and its not too much trouble I would appreciate some of those resistance readings

Unless the ECU just needs to see some continuity, I don't think it would affect anything as + voltage is only applied to the F position wire when the ECU gets a specific signal from the Speed sensor and maybe another sensor or two. As per the write-up guys have a push activated switch to + for the clean mode and it is otherwise an open circuit.

Well I did some more testing.. its not the ECU as I tried an 86 turbo... Its flashing a CAS code but Im wondering if this is from a different car. The Crank angle sensor is getting + voltage and with nothing interfering the light/reciever it puts out around 5 volts on the signal wire. With the sensor interfering it drops down to basically nothing (This indicates a good CAS, that is of course if the 5 volt signal is correct) Also with the CAS by moving the degree wheel through and out of the sensor i hear an injector or two clicking as well as the coil firing I got some resistance values of the MAF by just ohming out some of the different pins and recorded the readings and then got the same readings at the ECU connectors which cancels out my wiring. This is leading me to believe the MAF itself is the problem. Am i missing anything here people? And anyone with a working z31 maf, would you mind getting resistance values of pins: A-B I got .58 k-Ohms( 580 Ohms) A-C I got .51 K-Ohms (510 Ohms) A-E- OL A-F 9.88 Ohms B-C - 73.8 Ohms Thanks guys

with a z31 ecu and maf you need the z31 optical crank angle sensor. It's an ET dist. with a z31 degree wheel and sensor.

That is a beautiful color!!

And i say only maf and cas because those are the only changed sensors from the swap and it ran before the swap

A quick check shows that 44 is "no malfinctioning in circuits" . Is this safe to assume then that im getting a bad signal from the maf or cas? When there is a malfumctioning circuit is this only referring to its continiuity and not a signal itself?

When i go into mode 2 the green light just stays on. Mode 3 shows code 44. Im getting another ecu today so ill see what it does.

in the FSM it says something about the first round of flashes (different modes) actually telling you what mode you need to be in. Is the single green light maybe indicating I need to be in mode 2?

However im not sure if this will lead to my non idling/running issue but its a start. Im gettig my hands on another ecu and maf so well see what happens

Yes, thank you for your help!

It doesnt run. How do you get it into the modes?

Engine off ign and fuel pump on. I think on the 87 and up they are suppoed to flash twice to tell you what mode your in

I still dont understand how you get into each mode of the ecu. I recorded what mode its 'telling' me to go to but dont know what to do beyond this... The one green light flashing after the first 'both lights flashing' is throwing me off as well. Any input?

Yes the modes are kind of confusing ill need to figure it out and see what codes are stored.

^^ no if i remember correctly it didnt even start/ran worse

I pretty much already know its a fuel synchronization issue. Either the maf is bad, ecu is bad, or the ecu is not getting a correct signal. Id just like some input from some folks who have either done the z31 swap or had the same issues

It hadn't changed since the swap. It was at 20 btdc before. It doesnt even run long enough for me to check it as of now. The adjustment hasnt moved but is it possible I need to readjust it? I can try that tomorrow

according to that its a CA turbo 5 speed. The car it came off I saw running not long ago. Although,one of the ECU cover bolts was stripped, possible they switched the cover with another ecu? Yes it had an 81 harness and 81 ecu. I cut off the dropping resistors and twisted/ soldered the remaining wires together as in the write up. Ill check the plugs tomorrow. Im sure theyre soaked as they were with my AFM issues. Although my wideband is reading super lean while barely idling. That wideband reading may just be a result of the not running right though and is probably not accurate.

81 ET. It ran fine before the ecu swap

nope, throttle make it die immidiately, even faster than it dies otherwise which is within 3-5 seconds Pump is running no matter what its not run through the ecu. The symptoms are almost identical to when my afm wires were mangled, Im thinkng its the maf or ecu

It didn't fix it, it would be too small of a vacuum leak I think anyway... No one has any input on this? Im thinking it has to the be the ECU or the MAF. Ive checked the wiring over and over.

So I recently did the z31 ECU/Maf swap on my 73 s30 with 81 l28ET.. It's a full setup from a running 87 Turbo 300zx. Car ran great despite a rich problem before the ecu swap Wired MAF except for the auto clean (for now) + coil to the pin in ECU (keep reading) CAS/degree wheel swap 02 sensor is not yet hooked up but shouldnt need it for open loop regardless. I followed all the write up's to the T sans one thing... My TRE 255 LPH fuel pump is wired through the ignition switch so I didn't wire it through the ECU as it doesnt need the ECU to turn on... Does the ECU need to see some continuity or something of this nature to send power to the injectors? It will start for a second or two and then die. Symptoms are almost identical to when a wire got ripped out of the connector in the old AFM setup, but ive checked my MAF wiring time and time again... Yes, the CAS is the right way up, with the rotor pointing at cyl 1 the big gap in the degree wheel is under the sensor... Aeromotive trick flow FPR (set at 30ish psi with vacuum connected) (disconnected sits at 40+) TRE 255lph fuel pump with surge tank Custom fuel feed line, stock feed line used as return line Front mount intercooler Some cheap BOV P/O installed MSA Downpipe with AEM Wideband uego sitting ~6 inches from the stock 02 sensor location 3" custom after the downpipe Aftermarket Coil, NGK spark plug wires. HKS EVC boost controller ** Aftermarket Throttle switch p/o wired in** Test actually had resistance with throttle depressed (bad?) . Any input would be appreciated as I cannot figure this out! On a side note...my master cylinder has been hissing which directs at the diaphragm being bad and pulling in brake fluid which is also low. Could this contribute to my problem? -Daniel

What did you tap into as the + source for the gauge?

Like it says, I need any year z31 Turbo dizzy/cas/degree wheel. Would prefer Socal but for the right price Ill pay shipping! PM me or email me suby205@gmail.com Thanks!