SDgoods
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Posts posted by SDgoods
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Ive concluded that it will be VERY difficult to get everything out of the block, whatever it may be. Ive continued to 'flush' it out with water from the large opening on the rear of the block, and pushing out through the water pump inlet hole on the block.
At first dirty water actually came out, but at this point, clean water comes out, and the water from the point of entry looks murky. After sitting, the water looks clean, which means its just sinking to the bottom of the block and not getting flushed out.
Any ideas???
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Would this vinegar method be suitable to use in a block thats installed?
my head is getting resurfaced and Im wanting to avoid taking out the block. The water jackets and passages are a nasty orange color. I've taped off the coolant ports on the deck and ran hot water through and out to the waterpump inlet where it drains out to a bin.
My only worry would be not being able to flush all of the vinegar out.
Any input? Thanks
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I don't think my cars ever seen the word stance before, but here's my subtle stance
]
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FX1 pro will not fit in the s30 (unless with out serious modification) , I bought one and it wasnt even close to fitting, it's a very wide seat. I also like the seat to be nearly perfectly straight and true and square to the center of the wheel.
This is the only complaint I have with my Bride Exas III. it's just too short, as it was essentially made for a short japanese man. The corbeaus are certainly designed for taller/bigger people in general.
Have you considered the Forza sport? I think it will fit in an s30, fits about the same size person as a fx1, is cheap, and is FIA approved.
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Offset is the distance from the imaginary center line of the wheel to the mounting point of the wheel. If the mounting point is dead center of the barrel, its 0 offset. If the mounting point is any closer to the face of the wheel (more sunken). Its a positive off set, and as the mounting point goes the opposite way (toward the inner lip of the wheel) the more negative. These are measured in MM (from the imaginary centerline to the mounting point). Hope that helps
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Where are you located? If you bring cash to les at classic datsun theyre $190
Classicdatsun.com
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Reviving this. Anyone have any version of this from classic datsun or MSA?
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Recent shot from JNC and the Fairlady next to my 1977 930 Turbo Carrera.
Had a Euro lip installed since this picture was taken.
Perfect wheel/tire size combo on the s30.... specs? Im guessing 15x8 +0 225/50/15?
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I kind of went through the same thing. i jumped on a deal for a 1973 240z with (at the time) 70,000 miles and documentation from the day it was sold (I have the original bill of sale, and pictures of the original owner with the car on the day she bought it + a lot more) that already had an l28et, and the suspension had been modified with the typical ground control setup.
Most of the remaining parts of the car were stock and in fantastic condition. I internally fought myself about continuing to modify it or not (roll bar/race seat etc) , some of which will leave permanent scars.
I ultimately decided that its my own car now, (the previous owner wanted the stockish style) and that Im going to do what makes ME happy, not the previous owner or any other purist.
If it's going to sit in the back of your head and you kick yourself for starting to modify it, then either keep it stock, or sell it and find a little rougher Z that you wont mind tearing up. I feel that if modded right, they dont lose their 'nostalgic value'. I find cars that old cars that are modified as they would have been in their own decade are so incredibly badass, and for the right buyer, may be worth just as much or more than a stock example. Of course, a car is worth as much as someone willing to pay for it.
You need to decide what's going to make you happy and what won't keep you up at night. It'll come to ya!
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Stock head height is 4.248"
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He's too lazy to remove a few dowels but wants to straighten the cam towers with different thickness shims?
I don't get it...
Yeah, it was kind of weird. Ended up getting the top surfaced for an additional $60, which I thought was fair.
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12+12=24
using 20, you will be slightly slack (0.004") so you will have even less life in the new chain set you are using.
using 30 you will be slightly tight, but the chain will stretch as you run it in just giving more life than you would otherwise get.
On that kind of shave, I'd go for the 30's.
Thanks for the input, ill go with the .030
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Silver Seal makes 0.020" shims, which would be fine in this application. You don't use different thickness shims...you shave the top of the head. I don't know why you would attempt five different thickness shims...that's a LOT of work compared to a 20$ set of shims and a ten minute surfacing.
yeah, that was my concern. The top is getting resurfaced. Now, should I go with the .020 or .030 shims? There will likely be another .012 taken off the top I suppose the .010 will difference will let the cam gear slip on that much easier
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No, the CR won't increase any more after shaving the top. If you can get 0.030" shims, then that is the way I would go. Just verify your cam timing once you put it all back together.
The chain is wedged, so ill just put the cam gear on as it came off as I was going to do anyway. Thanks for your help.
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It may be that it's okay for a really good builder to machine individual custom shims for each tower. If the guy you're talking to is the guy doing the work and stands behind it then why not. But if he's giving advice that other builders can't follow, there's a problem.
Hes not, the heads at a machine shop and i went to the builder for advice
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I just had a P90 straightened. They heat it, then use a press to straighten it, then let it cool with the press still applying pressure. $130. Then I had my machinist just take a few thousands off the bottom for clean sealing surface.
Since you have already taken 12 thousands off the bottom, then you also have to take the same off the top and shim the cam towers of the cam will bind. This is how I knew my head was warped, because I couldn't get the cam to spin freely. You will need either custom shims (there is someone on Hybrid that makes them), or use 2 sets of 0.05 shims. Also realize that your compression ratio will increase as well.
Pete
Hasnt my compression ratio already increased? How will resurfacing the top increase it anymore?
If the top does get resurfaced, Can't i just shim the cam towers about the same amount as was taken off the metal? So if a total of .024 is taken off, can i shim it .030 ( msa shims)? For an increase of cam distance of .006 (assuming it hasnt been resurfaced before, which im going to find out)
I was told again by the engine builder that it is and has been common practice to use different size shims. Im still iffy about that method though.
Im a little frustrated with this shop as he didn't even state the pressure straigtening as an option.
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Nick hunter, hes a friend of mine. Hes a nissan master/gtr tech and builds engines for moto iq/ turbonetics/ jim wolf/ dai yoshihara etc etc...
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The bottom has been resurfaced. I was going to use shims anyway but since the top is warped i need to use different size shims on different towers correct?
Per the fsm, as i was told by an experienced professional engine builder, that is the correct way to keep the cam straight and true
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Well, according to a well known engine builder, thats the way to do it.
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So I took my P90 head to get resurfaced, the machine shop took .012 off the bottom. I asked if the top was (presumably) warped because the bottom obviously was. He said yes, So I said well then don't I need to have the top resurfaced as well. He said "I've seen these heads come in with different size cam tower shims to account for the warping on the top" Is it me or is this just sketchy to do? He said its a lot more work to resurface the top because of the need to remove the dowels and such.
If its acceptable to use shims to account for this, and there is an accurate and acceptable way to do it, I'd love to save the cash, however, it just seems like a bandaid fix,
any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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Thanks for the compliment. As nelsonian said, theyre hayashi racing 503's (now HRE, mine are japanese manufactured though ) and i love them. Mine were refinished by myself and HRE. The caps are the original plastic ones from the 1980's. Theyre holding up quite well as the refinish is high quality. Enkei 92s are certainly a cheaper and more abundant alternative. Specs are limited to 15x7-7.5 i believe and are one piece so you cant go wider. Id like mine a little more agressive so im running a 20 mm spacer in the rear and will likely run the same in the frontI'm cleaning the drool off my keyboard right now. I'm considering Enkei 92's myself. How are they working out for you? Are the caps metal or plastic?
Also, I've seen your rollbar in a few posts. Any plans for a short production run?
We have yet to make another bar for an s30 as everyone flakes out or doesnt want to cough up the cash (typical these days). If we see a real demand for them we're willing to build more and maybe even stock them, for now theyre on custom order basis.
HKS EVC Boost controller Boost source
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
1973 240z l28ET, stock t3 turbo.
I have a version 1 HKS EVC boost controller that is quite inconsistent in PSI. When turned on, it will intermittently choose what PSI it wants to run at, and other times be somewhat consistent. There's a VERY fine line between the knob being at 10psi, and then a hair more, will overboost to 15+ psi. I believe the unit has a learning procedure, but I can't figure out how it works. And if you know the unit, you basically set the knob , and watch the boost gauge to see what your at. I also realize this issue could be a fault with the controller.
However, I'm wondering if this is temperature related as the source line is coming off the compressor. I read somewhere that a source coming from the intake manifold would be more consistent.
Is this manifold source typical? If so, What do you block off the compressor source with? Or does everyone run it off the compressor?
thanks!