SDgoods
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Posts posted by SDgoods
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So you have a Z31 harness or a L28ET harness?
81 ET harness with z31 ecu/maf/cas and associated connectors.
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well i flipped the big washer aroud which gave me plenty of room on the stud thanks!
Also managed to get the boots on my folding it inside out!
Thanks for your help!
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Well I got my hands on a pallnet fuel rail as i simply wanted to clean up the engine bay. Turns out it fixed my slow rpm rise issue! It still slightly misses in some areas sometimes but the stock rail must have been holding it back!
I also fiddled with my make shift harness for the crank angle sensor that i partially suspected before and it seemed to affect it as well... Too bad i cant find anyone who will sell me just that portion of the harness. I think it may be causing the random missing. Its not terrible thoug and the car runs significantly better.
With the stock rail if i ran fuel pressure per fsm it would be too lean under boost but fine everywhere else. With the new rail i can run it at spec and still be fine under most situations, although its still rich cruising around but better than before
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You have the big washer on backwards. Both nuts fit as you would expect if assembled correctly.
That would make sense! Although the instructions said the depressed side toward the bushing, but this would definetely give it more room
thanks!
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I am almost positive that you only use a singular supplied locking nut. You compress the bushing until it is the recommended size using the gapping tool and then you roll the sleeve over the other side over the teflon ball and socket. I will have to go check my car, but I don't remember stacking the nuts like that.
according to the supplied directons the nut supplied is a jam nut and then you use the stock nut to lock against the jam nut. Just re-read it to confirm.
If anything Id feel better about it anyway as its locking the jam nut in place. The jam nut wasnt anywhere near tight enough at the correct adjustment for preload anyway.
Not sure what was up with my dust boot but no way in hell would it fit over the ilip on the chassis so I used a zip tie to hold it there.
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Just installed the gmachine kit. The jam nut had plenty of thread but the locking nut only has 4-5 threads of use, its tight and I suppose the jam nut acts as a nice lock but it still scares me a little.Has anyone else had this issue or is it normal?
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Slightly off subject but Have you guys seen the Star Road wheels recently made by Work wheels? I was lucky enough to see them in person at JCCS, they look AMAZING and cost around $600 each... come in a a nice variety of fitments...
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Im aware of new rails, lookin for a used one to save a little cash, thanks.
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in San Diego, Ca 92024.
Looking to buy a used barbed style fuel rail, willing to pay for shipping If i need to.
Let me see what you have!
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I've had issues in the past where the car would just go lean and start popping over I want to say 3500rpm, this was on stock L28ET harness/ecu/afm. Turned out to just be the crappy connection at the ECU. With the car idling try shaking your wiring harness, I have had a RELENTLESS amount of problems with the harness. Pins 28 and 36 are 2 main ground wires that run a couple inches into a crimped connector that then separates into a ground and connects to a rather large aluminum shielding wire. These are the primary grounds for the knock sensor and the CAS. This also ties into the O2 shielding. Also, I skimmed the thread, but make sure you don't have the L28ET knock sensor hooked up. As from what I've read it's not really compatible with the Z31 and will more than likely cause issues rather than helping the ECU to detect knock. Check your wires at the CAS on both sides. A friend's car we couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start. The CAS had a bunch of butt splices on it's wiring. Turns out one of them was barely making a connection. Once we soldered the connections together properly the car suddenly would fire.
Thanks for the input... Ill check the ECU grounds. The car starts and drives its just a couple spot along the RPM band and a
Any updates?
Well I swapped out 4 of the injectors ( 2 of the injectors I got sent leaked out of the body and I had to use 2 old ones) and I can go full throttle now and keep decent AFR's. But if I let the revs climb slowly it still leans out at the same spot. It will also sometimes either run pig rich (rich off the wideband) or super lean (lean off the wideband) at around 2000 rpm.
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I've searched and cant find an actual answer.
For s30's, Does running a urethane rear bushing with the T/C kits defeat the purpose of the T/C kit in the first place or will it still allow the arm to pivot?
Im already running urethane bushings and would like to avoid having to buy 2 replacement ones, although if I need to I absolutely will.
While someone at MSA recommended me the rubber bushings, the part description says you can use either one.
Thanks
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I'm very very very interested in that roll bar.
Nothing too crazy for the near future, toyota 4 pots, z432 spoiler etc... in the long run another engine swap of some sort.
Ill get some engine shots soon
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Nice roll bar. Who made it?
thanks, the shop i work for, SAE motorsport. Our in house fabricator will
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Boost pressure is subjective. Every turbo flows a different CFM, so .7 bar of boost one turbo is pushing a completely different amount of air than another turbo at .7 bar. You need to consider this when swapping turbos, especially on a stock efi system that doesn't adapt well to anything thats not factory.
Also, boost is determined by the wastegatespring/ boost controller/ boost control solenoid, which would likely be different if you went to a different turbo. With a controller you can control how much boost you actually make.
Even with a stock l28ET, Id recommend getting a wideband hooked up so you can monitor exactly what the engine is doing.
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Can any other symptom or engine condition cause the cas to throw a code?
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Well I have injectors coming. I figured if its the issue, great, if not, they probably need replacing anyway as 3 were original and 3 were not.
Still very stumped and curious about the CAS code. 3 different sensors, wiring checked out, 2 different ecu's. What the hell!?
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Well ECU wasnt it, also picked up another crank angle sensor it seemed a little more lively at low RPMS.
I also was too paranoid to slowly rev it past its lean point before, well I got it past 3500 and it stayed lean until around 4k (wasnt wot), then it started to richen up perfectly and went WOT and it pulled and kept good AFRS
Is it safe to assume this is an injector problem? I can get 6 semi new injectors with 1500 miles on them for 100 shipped right now. Also noticed 3 of my injectors are still brown bodied and 3 are black (replacements?)
Still doesnt explain the CAS code which came on immidiately with the new ECU.
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If it's still screwy after the other ecu, I would definitely check the injectors. I've had dirty injectors cause lean spots at specific rpms (2500rpm, and 4000rpm in my case).
Later when I had the original injectors cleaned by witch hunter performance, I was a little surprised to see the before and after only improved by +4-5%. I guess they were screwed up just enough to cause problems.
Thanks for the input!, I was thinkig about that too. Regardless ill probably replace/ get them cleaned as half of them are original and half not. For this issue every thing just seems so coincidental but thats not to say its not possible.
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Just a quick thought regarding your testing. You can switch into different modes on the ECU to clear codes, etc. There is also a mode, mode 5 I believe, don't have my FSM in front of me, where you can see problem codes in real time on the ECU'S red and green LED'S. maybe you could switch into that mode and see when exactly the CAS is acting up. Maybe it's throwing the code at idle (or maybe not) and perhaps you can see it happen when you free rev it to 3500 rpm. It's worth a try.
The later 300zx's have this, i think 86 or 87 and up. I have an 84 so I dont have the option.
I double checked the CAS circuit just now by jumping 2 connector pins and testing at the ECU connector, testing ground circuit, and +12v to the sensor, all of which checked out. This means that either the ECU or CAS are bad. My other CAS has the same symptoms, and im testing another ECU here soon.
Im basing this off the CAS code that I need to fix either way. Hopefully these are related and it fixes this issue and if not, I have some more tinkering to do!
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Does it affect leg room? The only issure I see is that some of use are running coilover and camber plates on the rear
I had my seat mounted in first and I knew it fit with the autopower bar, so knew this would fit utilizing the front holes on the fender well. It could be an issue if you had longer legs and needed the seat further back.
Yes it also would get in the way of camber plated in the rear. Im running ground control and (obviously) it can be used with them. might be a different store for an a coiliver system from another vehicle.
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Roy, using my aem wideband. I considered that as well. The plugs do read lean but ill check again tomorrow.
Correct I can rev it in neutral and the afr's are fine, but when driving and letting it rev up slowly under small load it leans out just as bad as heavy load.
The cap points are getting worn a bit, could that cause this issue? Just seems very coincidental
Im testing another ecu tomorrow so that will eliminate that. Still throwing crank senso code and Both my crank angle sensors yield the same symptom. Havent found anything in the harness either.
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There is a lot of structure around those fenders. One of the main body seams runs up the wall just a couple inches away. There are better ways to do it, but the Autopower was (is?) legal for SCCA racing and it had both feet on the fenderwells.
I feel the same. This is designed so much better than the autopower one, I think it should pass tech no problem
l28ET Z31 ECU/MAF leans out 3500 RPM on the dot, Any driving load.
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
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Nothing else changed. I suppose its possible the injector wiring could have had an issue and I moved it around, but I already had an aftermarket regulator on there.
If you read the previous comments, when I swapped some of the injectors out I was able to go full throttle even with the stock rail. It was still cutting out around 3500 under partial throttle though. Now It revs fine no matter the throttle input although it does have a slight misfire in some spots.