SDgoods
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Posts posted by SDgoods
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Welcome. I street drive my Z and agree with the above statements that a full cage is unecesary and even dangerous with out a helmet..
This is my 100% Bolt in custom roll bar. It was really important that Id be able to remove it if I ever needed/wanted to. And as you can see, its still pretty beefy. I would continue to read up on other members experiences with cages and roll bars as, its a very prevalent and significant factor in the drivers and passengers safety.
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WTB N42 non egr intake manifold
In san diego, will pay for shipping if price is right!
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Whered you find It? Ive been looking for one for a while.
I made my own with spade connectors and shielded wire from DIYautotune but I want the actual connector!
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Did you go through every damn test in the fsm?
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This is incorrect. The z31 ecu/maf/crank angle sensor has been used many times on the l28et harness and i run it myself. You need to splice the connector for the maf in to the harness and change a couple pins in the ecu connector. The system works and many have had good results, but its still primitive compared to a standalone/megasquirt system. It alll depends what you want in the long run. The JWT systems are essentially flashed systems that are based on the parts you have, so its never going to be as good as a true tune specific to your engine.I'm pretty sure you will need the Z31 harness because the Z31 uses a different type of fuel injection. (MAF Based). Why do you want to use the Z31 ECU? MegaSquirt has been proven to run the L28ET very well. If you're mainly looking for the JWT flash, then you're going to need to set it up like a Z31. Though the Tune still would need some tweaking. We'd be really interested in your experiences. Please write it up and add some pictures.
Edit: just realized you wrote s30 harness, not l28et. You might br better off just picking up an l28et harness and splicing as its been done many times. It will also include pig tails
To the crank angle sensor and cylinder head temp sensor (although make sure its an 82-83 harness) that will eliminate some wiring youll need to do yourself. They can be had for under $100
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Read the cooling thread. Don't loop the hoses, PLUG THE HOLES!
Facebook...ugh... Do they even know cavitation before thermostat....screw it I'm not writing it all over again. Good luck. Read/search. This is covered.
Thanks!
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Uh, don't do that. Plug the holes and watch your problems go away.
I noted when I run the car with my heater on full hot it does similar things. That is not a good way to "eliminate" the heater. You just open a 15mm shunt for hot water from the back of the engine to bypass directly to the inlet.
Don't by pass them or don't plug the fittings? Theyre bypassed right now.
Even with no thermostat, major pressure has been building up in the system, to the point that it explodes out when I take off the cap. The Water was SUPER frothy and brownish, although not sure if its oil or not. I think im going to replace the head gasket and associated parts either way, but im going to flush out the radiator and block first.
What do ya think?
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Tested the thermostat just incase, opened at 180F on the dot
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The pump pulls from the bottom hose and pushes the water through the block, up in to the head, through the thermostat and in to the top hose. There's a diagram, with arrows, in the FSM (of course), in the appropriately named chapter.
Thats what I originally thought, thanks. So it seems as thought because its not opening, the pressure is building up on the other side of the system IE the lower hose and pushing up against the back of the thermostat, or something along those lines.
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The top radiator hose is on the down-stream side of the thermostat, where pressure would be lower if the T-stat was closed and the pump was pumping. Your top hose would not be overly pressurized. With no flow I think that the temp gauge would still get hotter if the engine was over-heating, which it should do if the T-stat doesn't open. There's a small whole in the T-stat that allows coolant to pass through. There's something off in your theory of what's happening. Might not have anything to do with the thermostat, that's why changing it had no effect.
It might not be the thermostats fault, but it certainly is failing to open. How else would the radiator and upper hose be dead cold? Now that im thinking about the positiion of the water pump near the radiator inlet, Are you saying the water pump is pushing the coolant up through the radiator always, and once the thermostat opens it then continues flowing through to the top of the engine? I always thought about it reverse of that.
Some guys on a facebook thread I started are talking about pump cavitation from me bypassing the rear heater hose fitting back to the front near the lower rad hose.
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L28ET in 73 240z. Aluminum radiator, aftermarket overflow.
So ever since ive had this car, intermittently the thermostat wouldn't open and i'd have to let it cool down, (after it got hot),and eventually it would open and everything would be normal.
Now EVERYTIME I drive it, the thermostat upon initial warm up will not open, pressure builds in the system, top radiator hose gets rock hard and radiator is cold. I can see it coming on as the temp gauge will hit operating temperature, then start to actually get colder.
I replaced the thermostat yesterday and no change. I thought I read on here a couple weeks back that there's another valve in the system that bypasses water away from the thermostat? althought I cant find the thread.
Not sure what to do at this point!
Thanks in advance!
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I'm going to be a wee bit contrarian here and say that daily driving a Z is no big deal.
I've never had the luxury of two cars, if I wanted something cool, it was going to be the primary/only vehicle.
The trick to this I think is to be very proactive when you first get the car.
I start with the brakes and go full scorched earth on 'em- replace hoses, master and slave cylinders, rebuild calipers, replace rotors/drums, new pads. Unless something is obviously brand new, it gets replaced.
This process does two things...you know she will stop and it gets you up close and personal with all four corners of the car.
If you haven't closely inspected the chassis yet, working on the brakes will get you near the usual trouble spots (rear wheel arches, doglegs, rockers).
Assuming you are lucky (or were careful in your pre-sale inspection) and rust is not going to be an issue, the suspension is next.
Again, go full court press and replace the whole thing, bushes, struts, springs.
Depending on your component choices (strut inserts, brake pads, springs) both these procedures are dirt cheap compared to a newer car...figure about $750 for parts.
Naturally, during all this bolting/unbolting, you are either replacing the hardware or at the very least, running a tap/die over them and using lots of anti-seize. You will appreciate that a few years down the road.
The electrical is somewhat quirky but at least it's very simple, especially the carbed cars.
I like electrical work and usually rewire the entire car to my liking but you can live with the stock setup assuming it hasn't been butchered or suffered a catastrophic melt down. At any rate, clean every bulb socket (little wire brushes for this are readily available) and use dielectric grease. Same for all the connectors on the harness, clean/grease everything that gets unplugged.
Basically, you want to preemptively attack the primary systems before they bite you in the ass.
Assume that basic maintenance has been ignored and you're just bringing it back up to snuff.
Once done, you shouldn't have to go back and keep working on her- Japanese reliability was a big selling point when the Z was new and my car never let me down.
As to which model to get, personally I'd go with the car with the best body/paint, regardless of year.
IMO, rust repair and paint are far more onerous than the mechanical work...but that just might be me.
If you don't like FI, you can carb a 280 and vice versa.
If the later style bumpers offend you, you can retrofit early bumpers (with some work).
Objectively speaking, I think older cars are much MORE reliable than new stuff, primarily because there is so much less that can go wrong.
That was our point. Of course it can be done, but everything you stated requires knowledge/time/headache just to get the car to that point. We're not talking about a seasoned gearhead who knows his way around cars in general, he's a 16 year old kid. OP, I dont mean that to be offensive, but none of us want to see you get in over your head and get frustrated and quit on it. This is MUCH more likely to happen if its his only car. I did just that, I bought an s30, (absolute POS though), and dailyed it and hated myself for it. If you pick up an already clean and gone through example, its a different story, but youre gonna spend some cash.
If i were you , I'd maybe sell your current car, pick up a reliable honda civic in the $5000 range, pick up a solid s30 (running or not), and slowly build it. At a certain point in our lives, we all want that immediate satisfaction of an old cool car, but it will be much more worth it if you build it yourself, at your pace, and not have to stress about getting it fixed so you can drive it to school the next day. It sucks, ask me how i know.
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Im running 2.5" downpipe to 3" straight cut. ( muffler cut out near rear axle, pointing to driver side of car ) and it is LOUD. I love it and it sounds awesome but could be annoying to some
People.' Video does no justice but... -
Some good advice in here, take it all in!
It sounds like your trying to make the z your daily. While many people do it, and I do right now (with a race seat, harnesses, no ac/heat etc etc). I wouldnt recommend it, especially for a 16 year old whos not very familiar with the car or working on cars in general. It wouldnt be an exaggeration that youll have 'old car problems' everyday you drive if, although over time youll learn the car and be able to diagnose things very fast. This is just something to think about as it can be very frustrating have a single old car to drive everyday! And if it shows anything, im in the
Process of buying a daily!
Like he said^^ im @tacosandtuners on instagram if you ever need a quick help
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Im looking for a used oil catch can that does NOT have a breather...
Located in San Diego, willing to pay shipping, Show me what you got!
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Who's stand was this on?
This was at the OS giken booth
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I was lucky enough to inspect it at SEMA... needless to say, I think its one of the baddest engines Ive ever seen ( datsun guy biased of course), but its mechanical prowess is just unreal. Enjoy!!
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Look what I found at SEMA
They look fantastic!!! -
Your neighbor Les from Classic Datsun Motorsports sell them
Yep, If I dont find a used one ill probably stop by there. Trying to save some $$ though
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Added some engine shots!
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Like the title says, Id like to save some cash and pick up a used z432 style spoiler...
Im in San Diego and would prefer to pick it up in socal somewhere.
Thanks!
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I dont have the distributor but i do have the degree wheel if you need it. $30 + shipping
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if you're willing to go for a bit of a drive, I run the Tacos & Tuners meet down here in North County San Diego.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Tacos-Tuners/162259780458485?ref=hl
Obviously Im there every week as well as many other s30's, 510's and pretty much any european/japanese import you can think of.
We have s30's come with everything from stroker 3.1's to 800whp supercharged 408 to RB's etc etc.
I hope to see you out there sometime!
They look fantastic!!!
Post pics of your z's here!!
in Non Tech Board
Posted · Edited by SDgoods