SDgoods
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Posts posted by SDgoods
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I know a guy selling everything i need for my l28et z31 ecu swap. He had nistune on his z31 turbo. My question is, can i use the stock ecu (and parameters) after the nistune was installed? Or would i be better off just getting the nistune along with it?
Thanks for the input
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How do you like those ebay fender mirrors? Ive been hesitant to pick some up. got any more pics?
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Ya, ive ruled it out, the valve has been removed. Theres another underlying problem
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In that case, mines been removed and blocked off, so im wondering what i heard a couple months back when i spiked at 12 psi and heard a screeching/pop noise.
Cant for the life of me figure out this no start problem...
Barely starts if at all. Usually just cranks. If it starts itll barely idle at 500 rpm, and 10" vacuum. Misses terribly. Grounding plugs one at a time on the strut tower they get spark. Theyre getting soaked w fuel. Compression is solid all cyls.
Seems like a huge vac leak. The only thing i swapped out were afms, swpped back. Thought i destroyed the crank angle sensor so i jus wired up my optical cas in the dist today and it didnt change.
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The wtf was to that 2000 word post
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W T F?^^^ New zed, i looked before u posted that. I dont post until ive searched and tried and searched again.
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Ya i looked, didnt find it. And ive heard the pop off valve vent so i know its therre
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Ive seen the diagram^^ it doesnt help me locate the actual valve. Its pretty vauge
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This is most likely not the cause but worth a shot, I have a L28ET as well and was having real bad sputtering that progressed to the point where it would die. After looking all over I found that the gasket that is under the spring in the pop off valve had shifted enough to make it remain open all the time. This threw off the AFR so much the car ran horribly. Simply put it back in place and the car ran great.
I cannot for the life of me find any info on the location of the pop off valve. Where is it? Im having a similar problem. car wont even start and if it does it will run absolutely terribly at 500 rpm and 10 in vacuum
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Im switching to the 82 83 optical crank angle sensor. My car had the distributor but for whatever reason the po used the external sensor. So all i neee is that portion of the harness. Ill try your idea and hack the harmess end off the external sensors wire
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^^ not really lookin for a whole harness, only need the one segment of wire for distributor/cas
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Wait do these just pop off the tailights? If so ill sell you the original ones on my 73. I want it to be black
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Forgot to mention im in san diego ca 92024
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I need the wire/connector from the harness to
The distributor found on the 82-83 l28et
Willing to pay for shipping
Thanks,
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Yes, you can use the '82-'83 CAS with an '81 ECU. It doesn't know the difference. The same signal is coming from both types of CAS. I used an '81 ECU and harness on my '83 L28ET for years before swapping to VG30E engine management...
Yes you can, it's the same signal.
sweet, thanks guys. need to see if its truly a cas distributor and then find that connector...
Oh wait, I still have a rich problem as well!
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In the picture, It's the '82-'83 turbo distributor WITH the stock wiring. Normally, when you buy that distributor, it'll have that wiring attached (since it doesn't work without it!). Only an a-hole would sell a guy a '82-'83 turbo distributor without that connector intact...
Im thinkin either its an 82-83 motor with 81 electronics or they just happened to get an 82-83 distributor for the 81 motor and for whatever reason used the 81 ecu/cas. Cant imagine why you'd go through the trouble of the oil pump and distributor if youre not even gonna use it! Or they had future plans for a different setup. Ill have to try and find that wire...
I cant use my 81 ecu with the 82 distributor can I?
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Not the best picture, but this is what the Turbo Distributor looks like. It has a 4-pin (spade) plug covered (normally) with a black rubber weather seal, and a bracket which is bolted to the dist. to hold it in place. The wire is 10 to 12 inches long and connects to the ECCS harness just behind the thermostat - same connector that the external CAS uses...
If you unscrew the cap and remove the rotor, you should see a metal plate covering the stainless steel optical wheel and the electronics that make it all work.
If you actually have a turbo dizzy, you need to get that thing hooked up! You'll need the connector though. If you don't have it, it may be tough to find another...
it appears I do have one. Although is the end of the black thing with the yellow line the end of the connector that actually plugs into the distributor? And is that plugged in? Im missing that but do have that little prong coming off the dist. as well as the 4 pin connection underneath
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Yay more problems! I switched AFMs to a free one I got and the afrs were sporadic from 13's to 18's and super lean. So I changed back to my original AFM and while I was at it I cleaned off the external CAS as well as tried to measure the gaps with a makeshift feeler gauge. the pick up was at a diagonal and not parallel to the disc so I (stupidly) bent it straight....
As of now the car won't start. It cranks but floods itself. A couple of times it ran for a few seconds a 500 or less RPM.
So did i destroy the CAS or what?
Also already asked this but can anyone confirm I have an 82-83 distributor? It has the 4 pin/prong connection on the underside of the distributor but nothing plugged in
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The 81 CAS and the 82-83 Dizzy have the same plug configuration. The '81 CAS is a reluctor pickup that translates the signal to a square wave. The '82-83 is an optical encoder that outputs a square wave. As far as I can tell you can use either or. If that's not the case I'd like to know what the differences are that would prohbit them from being interchangable. It's not a wiring issue - is there an ECU issue?
If the two are interchangeable the '81 CAS tends to have a less than steller track record compared to the '82-83 dizzy/optical encoder. I would recomend using the '82-83 but as ppl have mentioned you need the oil pump shaft to match up. The L series turbo had a splined shaft to make timing more precise/less slop.
Reviving. I think I just killed my 81 external CAS. So your saying the 4 prong connector that comes off the 81 cas is the same connector that comes off the 82-83 cas?
My 81 for whatever reason has a 4 prong/pin connection on the underside that is UNUSED , is it safe to assume this is an 82-83 distributor? And that I can just find that connector for the distributor and attach it to the other 4 prong connector?
If this is so I will hopefully pick up a z31 ecu and maf
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Did you read the thread? Ive said numerous times that 1. I have a quality aem wideband 02 sensor with a gauge so i know its running rich. 2. Ive checked readings at both the sensors and at the ecu.
By pig rich i mean pegged to as rich as the gauge will go- 10 afr which means its probably even more rich. I have questioned the wideband however the gas mileage backs it up, under 10 mpg.
Today i confirmed that its not going into closed loop. The light on the ecu turns on when the key is in on positin but driving around low rpms low load it never does.
The afm over all test is 80 ohms under spec.
The chts is in spec, and i get the same resistance reading for it at the ecu and at the sensor.
The idle switch checks out as well. I might be getting my hands on another ecu to try out.
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What I described above is a test and it pretty much disables anything the hoses are connected to on the intake manifold other than the "vacuum control valve" which is actually a small blow off valve.
It's a good setup for testing but I've been running it that way for 40,000 miles.
Ill try it although like ive stated a couple times through out the thread the idle is the least of the problems. Its mainly the fact that it goes pig rich any time i even slightly get on the throttle. I dont believe its going into closed-loop
I would also clean the throttle body with a rag and some carb cleaner which can bring down your base idle to something that won't idle at all.
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When I suspect any of the usual suspects on the intake manifold, I simply remove the crazy T section (or is it F shaped) and replace it with two hoses.
One goes from the valve on the intake manifold of cylinder 4 to the J pipe and the other goes from the regulator to the idle air control actuator.
Most of the hoses are probably cracked anyway.
Easy test.
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6066/6116930413_17e6c40377_b.jpg
That wouldnt really explain my problem. It would cause a lean problem. Not to mention i pull 20 in/hg
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I forgot to mention something else I found (or lack there of) On the underside of the distributor theres a 2 pin connection (nothing plugged into it)
Anyone know what this is for?
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A though - are you testing your TPS at the TPS or at the ECCS connectors? Better to test at the ECCS connectors so you know what the ECCS sees.
As far as 0.3 volts, I think that the narrow band sensors jump rapidly from .2 V to .8 V when they go rich (low O2). But Ithink that when the mixture is way off, the sensors can foul and don't work right anymore. The wide bands apparently go the other way, in a more linear fashion, from high V to low V when the mixture gets rich. You're not using the same type of sensor for your AFR gauge and the ECCS are you? They're different. And there's a newer type of sensor that uses resistance, not voltage to calculate the ratio.
You're probably right on the EGR effect, since there is no extra fuel added with the added EGR gas. I got my gases mixed up. I still can't see any reason for the AAC or the AAR to affect the fuel-air ratio.
Good luck. At least you have a good reason to dig in to all of technology behind the system.
More findings, One the 02 sensor was pretty lose, turnable by finger. pulled it out and cleaned it off, tightened back up. Reads around .7 volts at idle now with my wideband reading right around 12.
Also the downpipe gasket is leaking at the bottom of the flange worse than i thought. Im wondering if this is skewing outputs on both the wideband and/or the stock 02 sensor.
Z31/300zx ECU/MAF to 280ZXT swap guide
in Turbo/Supercharger
Posted · Edited by SDgoods
I just completed this conversion minus the 02 sensor. I have an 87 turbo ecu on the ET. It will idle at about 1000 and misfires. It super rough and barely revs up, missing as it barely even gets to 3000.
I suspect its the maf itself. The Maf is getting correct grounds and + voltage. I have the correct ecu pins to the + and - of the coil. I disconnected the dropping resistors and twisted the remaining wires together.
My wide band is reading lean in the 16-17s and it will randomly go rich to the 13s and back to lean
Its pulling 20 in/hg at idle
I should also note, in the distributor I used the l28 rotor as opposed to the z31. I figured it just distributes spark so it wouldnt matter. Could this be causing an issue?
The last car this ecu/maf/optical sensor was on was apparently running fine.
Any tests or input anyone has in mind would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
Daniel