madmanadam

Update, nothing. NW drivelines still have the haft shafts and the driveline. I told them to take there time, just hope not to long. I just hope they can find me u-joint that will fit the 2.00 flange. They said they found one but would not recommend it, due to it was not to beefy and they were concern. Oh, by the way. Changing the control arm bushings is a pain in ars. heat, cut and pound. -Adam

Hi, good news Found a mustache bar pick it up tomorrow and I took my drive line and 2.00 flange to Drivelines NW. They said they see if they can mach it up, way cool. I will going with the 2.00 flange just because it is thicker,beefer and hope that they can find on to match. I find out tomorrow, day off. Thats the latest Thanks for reading

I want, I like alot, this just what I was looking for. The Toyota 4x4 works great but is bigger better, besides looking great. Are the Outlaw the same ones you can buy mail order? I guess I should check out, mike's (scca) site. I'm just tring to find out want will look good on my z. thanks fr sharing

Have not been to a U-pick yet, but it look like I might. I have got a couple more ideas from the rod show. I have put more pictures up of the different flanges. http://www.geocities.com/madmanadam/Z-car/r200swap.html Will taking the drive line the flanges to Drive Lines NW, they the one I have been running and it is just fine, going to have it checked. Might see what it will cost to make one for this set up. Go Sonics Got to go

Been good, Thanks, Brian I check out your site, nice and helpful. That is what I did, took all the stuff out at once from a 77 280. But that was 4 years ago. Just might have stored the wrong mustache bar, and that is about 163 miles away,in the snow and I'm not sure it would be there. I have taken apart acouple of z's since I started my v8 transformation and they were both R180 . What I think I might do is just clean everything up make sure all is tight and bushings not falling out or cracked, put the car back together and enjoy this toy for a summer and do the total change this next winter after the new garage is built (I hope), long time awaiting. hope to get a hoist also. Thanks all for the input and help. The people on this site are great. Keep up the sharing. Smile to all and all a good Z Adam

Thanks, I just read that about the cable in the JTR book. I will probably will do that. The control arm is a bird. you have e-mail Thanks again Adam

Ok this might be silly but how do you take the control arms of the strut tower? Found that the diff mount was also broken,hum how could that had happen? This is what I'm doing putting it all back together with the R180, new mounts, bushings, new grease and and will just drive it easy until I can pick up all the stuff I need. I just dont want this car not drivable, when it is sunny I want to be driven. I was going to dyno the car next Friday, looks like I'm going to have to cancel. Gave up on trying to get the nut of the flange, my impact just wont do it. Any more help please Thanks adam

Got the flange nut off. I put the end with the nut in the vise and the other end on a stool, put 1/2 drive ratchet and a old tire jack stand/bar over the end of the ratchet pulled down and it came loose. The only problem is that a R180 flange spline is not the same as the R200. Did'nt know, until I took apart. Oh well Both the R180 & R200 mounts were broken. So I welded one up and made it soild. Can't be any worse than what I had. How do you get the control arms apart to change the bushings? Any help with this Thanks Adam http://www.geocities.com/madmanadam/Z-car/r200swap.html

Something is wierd, the parts I took off the car that had this R200 look the same as the R180 stuff. Could my R180 have the same set up as the R200? Here are some pics, http://www.geocities.com/madmanadam/Z-car/r200swap.html Just dont know, oh well I have to tell myself to slow down sometime so this is just another way telling me to. Time to clean parts and see what else need a fixen. Have fun I'm adam

Well another issue, how hard is it to remove the pinion flange? I need to swap them so dont have to buy another flange. the R200 has the 2.0" flange. my drv line is set up with 2.25 flange. Is the nut on the flange reverse threads? According to the JTR book the M-bar/200 is all I need. Mike C, why do I need the rear curved crossmember? Just because it is stronger? Thanks

Thanks, Looks like i might need more stuff. The strap looks like it has a rip. zthang43, All that stuff for 100 looks like I should just start all over. R200 that I have is a 3.54 Where about in Mount Vernon? Heating the garage right now (darn cold in there)so I can take another look at what damage I have done. Thanks again Thanks

Well, I just came in from the garage and called it a night. I was in the process of changing out my R180 with a R200 which I have had laying around for 4 years and thinking that the mustache bar that was with it was the correct one, not. The bar I thought was a R200 looks just like the R180. Now I'm thinking of just putting the R180 back in with the new bushings and fill it back up. How much should just a bar cost? This is all good though, found out that the rear was slaming into the parking brake stuff, little damage. Also noticed that the mustache bar rear bolts were loose, so this is all good. Must have tight, strong car I guess I'll look around for a R200 Mustache bar I just dont what to pay to much. All in all it has been fun, used a trany jack and had the rear off and out in less then hour and no damage to myself. time to shut off the mind and go watch mindless TV. Zya8ter Adam

Thanks alot for sharing. Got home tonight and my urethane air dam was sitting on the porch. All I needed to know, one more time from a great site. Thanks again for sharing Adam

Well the car likes the carb, but having problems with the rear float. The instructions say if the float level is high to loosen lock nut and turn clockwise to lower and counterclock wise to raise. Turn a 1/4 at a time. Well I turned it clockwise and gas started to pour out of the top. Hum turned it counter and it goes back to where it was. I just dont get it, carbs and me dont get along. Is there anyone out there that would like to come to my home and play with my car? I live in Everett Wa. Please advise thanks Adam

I'm running a dripping Th350

I have been running the stock R180 for 5 years going on 6 and have not broke it yet. Been tring just dont have sticky tires. But the other day Had a Blast playing in the sun with the my Z. Found it will fly and land soild bottom'd out the side pipes with no damage, everything is tight:). Found out when going through a intersection,tap the brake, then hit the gas. You can leave a two, count them two lines through the intersection and end on the other side . This car is starting to come together. Oh I almost forgot when I got home I took a light and look under at the poor abused R180 and not to my surprise the pour thing was dripping in happiness, knowing that it is time for the swap, I have a R200 waiting to go in. Now who can tell where to buy the High energy Poly Bushing? I just got some money back from an investment and the wife said to buy . Need a Airdam also Thanks for reading just had to try and tell someone. Looking to Dyno soon. Thank all Adam

I have not put the carb on yet, doing spring clean up so I have time when spring really arrives so I can play. I have to reroute the fuel line the move acouple of things to make it look right. Hey, LONG what would be agood time to call? The carb is set up with silver diaphragm spring, prim 65, sec 68 and power valve 65. Thanks Will be zooming soon Adam

Cool another Hybrid, You will enjoy the hours and money and money and hours you will be putting in to your car. I know I have been enjoying for 5 or 6 years and still going. The fun just begun. $10,000 and going. It is all worth it when you take that first drive. I'm always ing

Just recieved my carb in the mail, what a happy day. 670cfm Street Advenger Just got tired of leaky carb so I bought a new on. It suppose to be right out of the box bolt on power. I should be up and running this weekend if not sooner. I need to change my linkage and fuel line location. Spring is almost here and I'm almost ready to play hard. had to share $377 for the carb, fuel rail, and pressure guage, shiped from Texas to Washington. Not bad Zuall8ter Adam The car is getting faster

Hello, all Just wandering wutcha all using for airdams. Doing more mods to my car. Just recieved the MSA spring catalog Any one using the 50-1411 airdam the cost is $149.95 Need to spend my B-day monies. Thanks Adam

Hum, gound wire? I know that one I forgot and melted a lot. I had the same problem once and all I did was jump a screw driver cross to start no more problem. Started from then on. Hum adam

I have bought the stuff in a raddle can for about 5 buck at the local parts store, Shucks Auto Parts I have even used it on my dash and it worked great. Adam

I replaced it anyway, looked pretty bad. But I still have the same problem. Now I'm looking at the EGR solenoid, need to do some testing. vacuum test. Does anyone know if these solenoids go bad alot? Thanks Adam

Ran a dianostic on it last night and it came up with EGR failer. Well, I will buy and try and hope. Thanks Adam

You guys, crap me up. Thanks Adam