madmanadam

Well, This is what I have done , replaced the exhaust, needed it, checked out EGR ,was ok. Replaced the fuel filter. Took it for a drive and all is the same. Going to try to unplug the torq. Runs quiet, smooth, just no real go. Now get this, If I turn on my lights I get no dash light till I open my door, then I get dash light. shut the door and lights go out, Go figure. Sure glad I got this for a good price, but its taking time away form my Z Thanks Adam

Hi, all Well I took the cat off and looked in side, you can see right through the thing. Looks like something is missing in there. I pulled the EGR but looks just fine to me. I pushed on it and you can hear and feel the air through the hole. Pulled the fuel filter and one way the gas would run out the other side the gas stayed in, blow on it and gas came out. How do you tell if the EGR is bad? Sure glad I got this rig for a good price. Its taking money from my Z-car Thanks again Adam

Thanks for all the replies. I just bought this thing as a toy (1987). It has 251,000 miles on it and the person I bought it from said the motor/trany/transfer was replaced. The exhaust leaks right before the cat. There is not a spot of grease or dirt anywhere on the truck. Very clean. I will check the filter, pump and egr. Thanks again This site is awsome.

Help, This is a non Z item but it is a V6 2.8 Chev. How do I check to see if the cat is plugged? I did a vaccum test and it read a even 16 then I brought it up to 2500 rpms and let go, the needle went from16 to 20-25 and then back to 16. Can any one please tell me what is going on? When I 'm on the freeway it take all got to stay 60mph. It kicks in and out of over drive. By the way this is a s-10 4x4 blazer. Thanks alot Adam

The squeel is gone for now, I put a breather cap/PVC on one side and another PVC on the other side. Drove the car and about a mile I started to get a slight noise, but not as loud. I unscrewed the oil filler cap and removed the rubber o-ring and the squeel went away, wierd. Went to a auto shop to find a breather that would fit in the filler hole but could not find one that would fit, the hole size is diffrent (2.33). It sounds like the squeel is gone for now. Drove the car for about 100 miles yesterday with no squeel . Got hit with rain and no top never rains in Washington. Adam

The engine is a ZZ4 350 355hp, has filer cap on both sides and both have breather holes. Center bolt valve covers. The pvc is one for a standard 350 v8 90 model Thanks Adam

I have the PVC coming off the manifold. I had it coming off the carb but it did the same thing. All new hoses. The PVC is for a v8 350 is there a diffrents? Adam

Hey all. I'm stumped again, whut would cause the PVC valve sqweel like a pig. This is whats going on, when the car gets up to temp, I get this high pitch sqweel, at first could not figure out what it was, thought it was something in the motor or the starter. well I pulled the PCV out of the valve cover and the sqweel went away. I bought a new PVC and it still sqweels. What the heck is going on? This is probably something simple but I just cant figure it out. Could someone explain what is going on? The car is running great but the sqweel is drawing more attention then the car. Thanks, any help would be great. Adam

I'm here not much but its a start. 1972 240z Red for the moment ZZ4 350 Engine (24502609) Specifications Displacement: 5.7 liters (350 cubic inches) Horsepower: 355@5.250 rpm Torque: 405 ft-lb @ 3500 rpm Bore/Stroke: 4.00" x 3.48" Compression Ratio: 10:1 Crankshaft: Nodular iron LT4 Corvette Connecting Rods: Forged powdered metal Pistons: Cast aluminum with offset pins Camshaft: Hydraulic roller tappet Valve lift: (Intake/Exhaust): .475"/.510" Duration (Intake/Exhaust): .208deg./.221deg @.050" tappet lift Cylinder heads: Cast aluminum (Intake/Exhaust): 1.94"/1.50" Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1 Distributor: High energy ignition with centrifugal and vacuum advance Intake Manifold: Dual-plane high rise with d q-jet stage I Exhaust: Hooker 2001 Block Huggers, Dyno Max 52” sidepipes Topless, no top, no shell, not a convertible, never rains in Washington R180 winter project to R200 Turbo 350, Birthday wish a 700R Rims - Stock 4 spoke, star or what ever they are called, with 205/14/70 Tall to get me off the ground Norgskog digital gauges in stock location B&M megashifter, powermaster mini starter Shaved door handles See web site for mor info www.madmanadam.com Life time project do they ever end? Hope not keeps me young. Thanks for sharing Adam

Tim, I would like to the pictures. Thanks Adam

I have been reading the header issue and dont understand. I went with Hookers Block Hugger #2001 ceramic coated and 2 1/2 collector $264 from Summit. With JTR set up. These headers also work with the D port heads. I also have angled plugs and still no problem. But I did have to cut a bit on the motor mount to pass by the steering shaft. Just a little input Adam

Thanks, I just got back from a 3 hour 60 mile putt. The temp 190 to 204. WoW what a day the car ran awsome. Did a little freeway then some back road curves. Great day in the 70's. Only one problem, did all the driving with no windsheild had goooogles on, just like a bike but lots more power I think I might change the thermastat to 180. But for now I'm just running. Windsheild this next weekend. It is so nice to drive this money. Thanks Adam

Just wondering what is the average temp on your cars. Finally driving more than a block. I'm runnning a zz4 and my average temp is about 200 degrees. The radiator that I'm using is a camaro with a black magic fan. What would be a high temp? I have heard that these engines like high temp is this true? Thanks Adam

The compression is 10:1 per spec sheet. I have not ran a test myself yet. So far I really like the Engine, the car is now a real rocket. This is also the first time out with the Toyota 4x4 brake conversion. The car stops real nice. Need to do more testing. Adam

Embarrassing? Oh ya Lucky the car was ideling at 600rpms and I did not hit the gas. The car just putted right up to the gate and then thru. U-brake? The one time I didnt have it on. hooking up the safety switch today. On the other side of the gate was my friends car, missed by a inch All I could do was laugh All in all what a ride the just wanted to cruze Adam

All I can say is Oh Sh@t. Make sure you have a neutral saftey switch or make sure you are not in gear. Drove the car around the block about 5 times last night everything was working just great, what a rocket I just got done parking the car in the back yard, putting everything away and saying good night to the car and a friend stopped by to hear the car. Well I started the car for him, me standing on the out side of the car, turning the key. The car decide to drive its self right thru the fence oops, Damaged the hood and scraped off the paint on one of the headlights. Not much damage just a delay. So just a note to remmeber to go slow take your time and make sure you have everything hooked up before driving or starting. Neutral Saftey Switch is a must. Adam

Hi, all Anyone out there hooked up a 12 fuse panel from Painless? Question is, how did you hook up the hot wire for the HEI? When I hooked it up to the coil fuse the car would not start, it was not a constant hot. When I hooked it up to a direct hot the car started. Any help would be great. The car sounds awsome. Hope to diving this weekend. Thanks Adam

http://www.nordskogperformance.com/ Here is there web site.

I have the (digital) tach,speedo,temp,oil, all sensors and waiting for info on the fuel gauge. The Nordskog company do not reply to there e-mail very fast. I ordered all the gauges from Summit Racing. But summit doesnt advertise the fuel gauge. So I'm trying to work with Norgskog. They are slow.

Thanks, The fuel gauge that I want to use is from Nordskog and it reads the fuel in %'s 0-99. Thanks again Adam

Does anyone know the ohm of the sendor in the gas tank of a 72 240. Replacing with digital and before I order need to know the ohm. They offer 0-90 ohm GM, 240-33 ohm universal and 73-10 ohm ford,chy. Can any one help? Thank Adam

Getting closer on getting the car on the road. Need to know who,where, how much and what size to use, 7/8 or 1". Another Qst, what would be the largest tire that I could put on 5.5 14 stock rims? I have been told 225's that seams a little big. One more thing I went digital gauges. The side pipes are on, looks like I will have about 3 to 3 1/2" clearance. depending on the tires. The side pipes 2 1/2 from headers and about 1 1/2" below the oil pan. I need the speed and the need to drive. thanks all Adam

Hi, Jim I have a zz4 in my 72 Will have more pic by the end of weekend. www.madmanadam.com http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9364/Z-car/3-23-1.jpg I have had a delay and just getting back to working on the car, hope to be on the road by end of July Adam

Well looks like the pic didnt show, heres a link to what mine look like. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9364/Z-car/3-18-1a.jpg Adam

I'm using the Accel 300+ wires from Summit Racing, R&M wire looms and Block hugger headers. I used zip ties to hold them away from the exhuast. So far no problems Adam