Lockjaw

I looked at it, but it is not any cheaper than a Tec II set-up. The one this guys was running did not have coil packs, and that is the only one I would use. If you are going to spend that much money to upgrade, you might as well get rid of the distributor, IMO. It is about time they offered that. I checked with them before going to JWT and they said no go and had no plans to offer it. Sorry I was off there.

All maixma's after 83 are Vg motors, but the first ones had v belts for some of the stuff. Later as they added more luxury items, the need for more juice arrived, so the alternators were upgraded. If you have a friendly parts person, they should be able to run down the ratings for you and tell you specifically what alternator does what. I compared several. Changing the pulley is not a big deal, Advance did it for me. What is nice about the maxima is it bolts in with the same brakets. Mine rocks like no tomorrow.

There was a guy down here in the sticks with one on his turbo 240z at Steele running, and although he was no match for my JWT setup, his car seemed to run pretty well. I did not ask him what all he had done to the car, but it moved out pretty good. He was running mid 13's at 108 on street tires, I was running high 12's at 112 on drag TA's, but in a ZX. (Best of 12.662 spinning) I would be interested in an SDS more if it had coil packs like the tec II. The SDS is probably cheaper than the JWT set-up unless you have access to some later 300zx ecu's for cheap. Good luck with your set-up.

Ideally, what you want is an air to air core that is big enough to keep your intake temps at ambient, or just above under full boost. That would be its efficiency rating, and shoot for the highest you can get that will flow the cfm you are planning on reaching. In other words, you need to know what your turbo can flow in cfm, and the intercooler shuld be sized appropriately. An air to liquid core can get you below ambient for short periods due to the ability to add ice or dry ice to the liquid resivoir. These are better for drag racing mainly. There are options for air to air cores that help like having NOS sprayed on them, or a water and alcohol mixture that would cool them substantially as the stuff evaporates. You could also add an electric fan to the backside of the intercooler and that would help its efficiency in town and on hot days. Anything youy can do to help concentrate air and speed it up going across your core will help. Ducting for example, helps. Your temp getting up to 180 degree's is costing you power. The cooler your intake charge, the more air you can get in there, and the more power you can make. Imagine what dropping your charge temp 100 degree's would do.

Sounds like you have a plan. I would hunt around for a used turbo rad, and if you find one, I will bet you money that will solve your cooling issues. BTw, the Z engines like to run warm anyway. I never run mine when it is cool, I always make sure it is warmed up at the track, and usually my second pass after the car has sat will be my faster pass. My dyno results also confirmed this, as did Clark at JWT. I set my electric to come one after the thermostat opens. In fact, I blew the fuse in it the other day when I went up to the drag strip, and I had no cooling issues, even with no fan. I was not just sitting in traffic idling though. As for intercoolers, I don't like a stock one for anything anymore. I think they are designed to keep a stock engine at stock boost cooled ok, but they are just not designed to do what most people need. The NPR is not a good unit either. I have an HKS one, and I plan on replacing it either late this year or early next year. I think your conquest one can handle what you are planning on doing.

I have a 90 amp maxima alternator on my ZX. It is an 87 alternator, and I had to get a pulley off an 84 I think. I took it down to an alternator shop in Bham and swapped them my serpentine pulley for a v. I made a little adapter pigtail to wire the thing up, and went to town. I don't have to do the over 2000 rpm thing, my lights are brighter, and my car runs better. The maxima alt is a straight bolt on, nad the cooling fan on the inside. Picked it up at advance with lifetime warranty for 80 bucks or something. They worked with me a cored my 83. You would have to get it wired up since you have an external regulator. Good luck.

Pete we have a guy on the board that has adapted his 3 liter engine to run twin 16 g's, which are pretty good sized. They are an upgrade for a GSX. Without getting into real specific detail, generally two turbo's on an engine will be more responsive than one big one, however the one big one will make more power, but will have more lag. As your engine size increases, then going to two turbo's is a much better idea. (V-8's in particular) With today's technology, some of the small t25 or t28 wheels flow as much as some t3 and small t4 wheels due to improvements using cnc machining, computer modeling, and use of diff materials, and aerodynamic improvements. Extrude honing the housings is also said to make a huge difference. It all boils down to a compromise. You have to be willing to accept some sort of tradeoff somewhere, it just depends what you like. My personal opinion is to really do your homework on set-up and research, talk to some people who know there stuff, and go from there. I hybrid turbo is a great way to go on the inline 6, and I would not get the .48 ar housing, unless I was autocrossing. Stock is a .63 and it works well for me, I get full boost by 2800rpms. A.82 is probably better suited for someone who plans on doing alot of drag racing. I am not to concerned with the compressor wheel, and would be happy with any T4 wheel up to the 60-1 on a hybrid with a stage III turbine wheel, depending on your power requirements. I would stay V trim or higher, again unless you are auto crossing. The TO4E housing and wheels are a different story and I would go 50 trim or higher. I don't know much about the E wheels, but computing some flow points on each compressor map should help. Shoot for the most efficient one for your application, again giving yourself some growing room. Going from a stock turbo to a hybrid can give you a scary power increase, but in short order you will get used to it and want more. Be ashame to be topped out that soon, which is why I like a turbo that gives you growing room. I could write a book about turbo's and probably leave something out. My best advice is get the most efficient stuff you can, and leave growing room, and you should be happy.

You can also tell when your friends are lying about using it by looking at their plugs. Glad that was an easy fix.

A turbo charger adds heat to your system. I low compression engine is much more inefficient than a higher compression engine. Those two factors alone could contribute to your issues. As for the intercooler, as long as you are happy, I am happy. I just wanted to let you know you will have a nice pressure drop accross the core. Prob less if you have the inlets and outlets enlarged. Another thing I would check for is retarded ignition timing. My frieds 455 from long ago ran really hot with retarded timing. Long shot I am sure.

I have to disagree on the leakdown test. I believe a leakdown test involves pressurizing the cylinder with air, and measuring how much it loses. There is a specific tool that is used, but since I have never tried it, I am not sure much more beyond that. Corky Bell's book indicates leakdown of 91 or less as impaired,( 9% leakdown or more ) so you will need to fix it. Depending on where you hear the air leak, that indicates where you have a problem, be it a head gasket, valve(s) or rings. If you are getting water into a cylinder, chances are that one will need rings since water does not compress very well. Probably piston(s) too. For now, do a compression test, and record your figures, and then repeat only adding some motor oil to each cylinder thru the spark plug hole. If your compression goes up, then you have ring problems, if not, valve problems. Generally. Good luck with it.

If you are talking about the inside of the turbo, you are probably seeing what remains of using some sort of octane booster. It will turn your combustion chamber and exhaust ports and all that a nice reddish brown color. If it is the outside, I guess I would go with Tony's explanation since I have no idea.

One thing I would recommend is trying to find a 81-83 turbo radiator that is in good shape and put it in your car. I have the stock radiator (turbo) and a 16 in electric pulling air, and it is doing a good job of keeping my engine cool, with an AC condensor and intercooler sitting on front. If you have a good contact at a radiator shop, they could cutom make you a new radiator. Just because it is a 3 row, or 4 row doesn't mean it can cool your engine. I had a 4 row from Motorsports that would not keep my engine any cooler than a three row. It is more about the design of the core. More tube and fins are the way to go. That is the diff between a turbo versus non turbo. You could always get an aluminum one and be done with it. BTW< the Starion intercooler is pretty restrictive. I would see about getting a better one if I could. Lots of pressure drop. Good luck.

These guys are on the money about the turbo deal. I have an H3 hybrid, and the H3 is supposed to support lots more HP than my car dyno's. The best thing you can do is research the turbo's you are interested in, and see which one best suits your needs. For example, a t3/t4 hybrid, with a stage III turbine wheel will make varying amounts of hp, depending one what compressor wheel you put in it. However, lets say you put a 60-1 compressor wheel in it. If you have the .48 AR turbine, you will be hard pressed to get much over 300 RWHP, even though the compressor is good to 500 or so. Change to a .63 AR turbine housing, and you are likely to see 400 at the wheels, and go to the .82, and you could get 475 or maybe a little more, provided you had the fuel to feed it. Same turbine wheel, same compressor wheel, three different turbine housings. What are your trade offs? When you get boost and boost response versus top end hp. A fast spooling turbo is very responsive on the street, and slower spooling one is incredible once it gets spooled, and something in the middle of the road is where most people go. Check the flow rates and efficiecies at the boost levels you want to run, and leave yourself some growing room. I haven't met a turbo person yet who has not ended up "upgrading" to a larger turbo. I am going to upgrade myself very soon to a 60-1. Just make sure you can supply the extra fuel needed to grow, or you will have one nice boat anchor. Good luck.

Verified, and my source is evidently a not so brite 240Z owner. You would think someone who had a turbo engine and an SDS engine management set up would know his stuff. I guess someone else could have put the SDS and engine in there. Oh well, the rocker arms are not for the L series engine.

I was told this weekend that Malvern Racing has roller rockers, and they are expensive. Unverified at this point.

I am not sure what you built, but a hybrid as you have asked is a t3 turbine section mated with a T4 compressor section. You may have put one together, but there is a lot more involved that just assemblying it. It should be balanced, and that takes specialized equipment. One other thing, there should not be more than a 1.25 ratio between the size of the turbine to the compressor wheel. It would be nice to know what size turbine wheel and compressor wheels you have.

Good run. I have drag TA's on my 280zxt, and they helped me get into the 1.8-1.9 60 foot time. I ran one high 12 sec pass on street tires, but with the drag ta's I can click them off at will now.

Technically, I think the best thing is to use as much mandrel bent hard pipe as possible, and save the silcon for connecting the pieces. The longer your piping, the longer it takes the boost to get to the cylinders, so you may have lag issues

Hey Guys, I have the JWT ecu in my 280ZXT, although I am using the cobra maf, which flows more air than the nissan meter, and I have 420cc injectors. Here is what is up with the fuel pump. The 280ZX controls the fuel pump with positive power, the 300 controls it thru the ground. Th black wire on the fuel pump relay under the dash needs to be grounded, and then your fuel pump should be able to be controled by the ecu. I don't think you can just put a JWT chip in it either. I think they make the chip removeable, but I never looked at my ecu, I bought it and had it dropped shipped from the salvage yard to Clark. My set-up uses the 89 ecu, and I have to swap the number two of the injector wires, don't remember which, and disconnect the det. sensor. I did use the chopper wheel from a turbo 300 distr, though. I agree with you that it is light years better than the stock set up. If you wanted to run bigger injectors, why not put some sort of voltage controller in line between the MAF and the ecu and adjust your signal voltage? Seems like that would work to me. Another option would be to do like the do on the 300TT and have two sources of inlet air, and use the "adjuster" to control the bigger injectors, which would also increase you total airflow you could put in the engine. I am worried you may not be able to get the signal adjusted low enough to control the bigger injector is all. The harnesses are all basically the same from what Clark told me. FYI. Oh and I did have to run a ballast resistor on each injector they gave me to raise it to a high impedance to work with the ecu. Would not want to fry the injector driver. If you want a 280zx to get down in the 12's you are going to have to run more boost than 12psi. I got into the 12's on street tires once at about 19 psi with an H trim, which is not much bigger than the V. Now with drag ta's I can rack them off at will. I just put 3.90's in the back, so we will see what that does. So far my fast pass is 12.779 at 113.75.I expect the 3.90's to improve that a few tenths and a couple of mph.When I upgrade the turbo, I am hoping for low 12's or high 11's, and then I am going to find a 240 body to stick all this stuff in and see what shedding 800 or so pounds will do. One other thing you could do is get an adjustable FPR and raise your static fuel pressure, and then adjust your signal voltage to compensate. You would have to have a pretty strong pump, like the peirburg from Cartech, but you need a good pump anyway. I bought an adjustable bosch regulator from JWT and it works just like the stock one, it is just that I can adjust the static pressure.

Get a hybrid and have some fun. You can taylor them anyway you want and they make a lot of power. Aerocharger is not the way to go for our engines. They do not flow enough to make decent power. Two maybe would, but that is big bucks and you could get one heck of a nice ball bearing unit, and avoid all the hassles. Besides, IMO, it is better to get a turbo that gives you growing room, because I can promise you, when you figure out how much your power picks up as the boost goes up, you will want to do that. I am fixing to upgrade my hybrid cause I want more power. It is like a drug my friend.

Well buying new ones is almost as expensive as buying forged ones, so I would step up in that regard. I think you need to find an old turbo engine and go thru it, that would probably be the cheapest route. There are diff's between NA and turbo dished. The rings in the turbo engine are different and thinner in the turbo and non turbo ZX engines. The ring lands are lower, and I believe there is more material between each one. Also the crown of the piston is thicker and the pin boss is beefier. I agree with the advice on using turbo versus non turbo pistons. NA ones don't give you much wiggle room when it comes to tuning, as least a cast turbo piston will give you a little. Forged will give you more, but I have heard some pretty wicked detonation on cast turbo pistons that did not blow up the car, and no it wasn't my car. HAHA

They are the same, although the down pipes are different. I think thet are swappable though. The 300ZX turbo will also need to be reclocked to use it in a 280zx or earlier Z. I had a 300 ZX water cooled turbo in my old 240 turbo and it was water cooled and I liked it. I took a plug right out of the side of the block behind the turbo and used a piece of pipe and some teflon tape there, and then t-d off the coolant line on the passenger side of the engine. Used regular old cast iron pipe from the hardware store and some rubber heater hose. Just tape the thing up good with teflon tape so it doesn't leak. It wasn't the prettiest thing in the world, but it worked. I liked the 300 turbo better anyway. I thought the down pipe was much less restrictive since it did not have that abrupt bend that the 280 one does.

You need more boost than that to have alot of fun. HEHE. You could have had a boost spike that showed up on the EFI deal you have, and you may not have been looking at the guage when it happened. BTW, my VDO starts at 2 psi and does not register vaccuum on purpose. It isn't broken. I like it that way so I don't have to watch my needle move all over the place. I really like this guage. I have a little SW one the reads to like 40 or so psi, but it is backwards. Boost is on the left and vaccuum is on the right, and it confuses me. My car spikes boost hardest in second gear ever since I went ot the JWT system. If I get any detonation, it is when it spools the turbo on the 1-2 shift. ALways. I have the t-5.

Yo2001 I would be curious to see what the Jun specs are, and the price. TEP cams are big, and what I was after was a cam that would go in the head without needing a spring and retainer swap. As far as that roller follower, I am very interestd in that idea. If it was a ford part, that would be cool too. I better not get my hopes up, because that would rock, roller rockers in a Z motor. That would have to really reduce friction, and should be quieter too. I wonder if I would have to have someone grind a cam for it that is diff than the stock type cams. PLease let me know about the rocker arm deal.

I just put 3.90's in my 83 ZXT and I like it better than with 3.56's. It really goes thru the gears in a hurry, and I bet it would seriously pull something with that short first gear. I kind of think numerically higher gears help with wheel spin. In my case, I could just pull second gear, and with 3.90s in the back, I would probably still be in boost. Since I have drag ta's on mine anyway, it is not like wheel spin is a problem, but I still have plenty of overdrive with my set-up. I would like to know if you could swap out the bellhousing's as I have a good source for the 300 trnasmissions. I would not mind trying one if mine fails. Plus that short first gear will work to your advantage in a stoplight confrontation.