Lockjaw

I may have some dissent on this, but I have an internal wastegate, and I can control it just fine. I think starting with a good one is the key, and the nissan one is not very good in my opinion. An external is better for a couple of reasons. One, they are generally larger, which gives them the better control you may need if you have a big turbo and are not running alot of boost. If you are running alot of boost, then the big wastegate is not really necessary since most of the exhaust is going to be running thru the turbine. The second, an external wastegate is a way to get extra exhaust flow out of your set up. You are bypassing the turbine and provided you run a separate muffler or vent it to the atmosphere, you have increased your exhaust flow. For the most part, on a hybrid, I don't think you need an external. I had one on a T4 and I hated the racket. An external increaases your cost and complexity. The choice really boils down to what you want.

Well they could be talking about the T4 housings, and Garrett does have some new ballistic housings that are creepnig into the market, mainly in their ball bearing turbo's. Those are pretty pricey, although they are cheaper to buy from Ray Hall in New Zealand. At least from where I have looked. You will like the hybrid. They make lots of power for their size. Intercooling is a very good idea, and a 3 inch exhaust will really wake things up for you. Be sure it put you K&N filter in front of the radiator so the turbo is injesting cold air, and get a blow off valve.

Yo, you need a .58 housing for a p trim. If you can buy the turbo for cheap, buy it and we will get a .58 housing and swap the housing. I can help you do that. I have a manifold set up for a t4. You are welcome to look at it or borrow it or whatever. Cartech and turbonetics should be able to get you straight with an adapter or a flange.

A T4 will not fit without modification. See my link in your other thread.

There are only 4 turbine housings for the T3, unless you get some of the new garret stuff I don't know about yet. There is a .36 ar, .48, .63, and .82 . Those are the standard housing's. The stock turbo is a .63. The smaller the ar, the faster the turbo spools. I would not go below a .63. It is probably the best all around turbine housing for the Z car and a T3. If you are going to get a hybrid, I would recommend a stage III turbine wheel, and a V trim compressor wheel, or the H3. I have the H3. I could not get the perfomance out of the H3 I wanted until I got over 12 psi. If you are not going to intercool your car, I would stick with the stock turbo. With an intercooler, the stock turbo is supposed to make about 245 hp at the crank. You will need some way to add fuel enrichment to your car with a hybrid turbo if you run much over 10 psi, IMO. You would be better off to buy a turbo from someone who knows what there are doing. http://www.mjmturbos.com/ try this link and look around he has several differnt turbos with pricing. If you use a T04B, it fits pretty well, depending on turbine housing, the T04E may require a spacer. T04E is a better housing if you plan on running alot of boost, T04B is better if you stay under 20 psi. I have the B housing. I dyno'd 307 Hp to the rear wheels at 21 psi. I don't know what that works out to at the crank. Probably about 375 or so. A V trim would not be far from that. Good luck.

I have a hybrid right now. I spool it fully to whatever boost by 2800. Since I had a ZX, I switched the 3.56 diff for a 3.90. I think the 3.90's help as far as making good forward progress even when spinning. On the street, it hooks up sweet if I just stand on it. As you can see from my new sig, I picked up a 74 260Z last night, so it is going to be my new turbo project. I think shedding 500 pounds should drop me a pretty good bit considering what my ZX ran. I am still going to upgrade the turbo. Lag problems are only there when I am in a gear I don't need to be in. I think a lot of lag problems with hybrids are due to not getting your wastegate set up properly. MY wastegate actuator is one I had Topend make for me. It is dual port and adjustable. (internal) I use a manual boost controler to introduce boost to the bottom port to manipulate the boost over the wastegate setting. Most people adapt the stock Nissan wastegate actuator, and it is marginal at higher boost levels, and just cannot handle a higher flowing turbo, IMO. If I get the turbo I want, I expect it to have some lag, heck the wheel is 2.5 in exducer 2.7 inducer, and that is considerable larger than the stage III turbine I have now. It flows enough for 600 hp according to turbonetics, and with a 60-1 compressor, it should flow alot of air. I want 11's. I think I can get there dropping 500 lbs and going larger with the turbo.

Spinning them is more fun. They leave really pretty black marks. My problem Scottie is my turbo spools so fast than even a moderate launch with spool the turbo and break them loose, without VHT. With VHT, I can leave at 4k or maybe a little better. I am working on getting a new turbo, and am going to slow down my spoolup, which should help. I want 11's without having to cut a 1.6 60 foot time. I am looking at a stage V turbine in a .63 Ar housing and a 60-1 compressor. It is a 10 second turbo on a DSM, so I hope it will do the job for me. The 2L engines don't spool it until about 4000 or more rpms, but I am betting I can spool it a lot quicker than they can. This is a hybrid turbo.

Why not just dump a can or two of 104 octane boost in there? Or if you can find a place that sells racing gas, add about 5 gallons. The leaded kind is the best, IMO.

Probably a Klez virus (worm), and it is likely it did not come from him as much as it came from somoene who has his address on his computer. We were having a real problem with them in AL a month or so ago. I was getting them everyday in email from people I did not even know. Norton killed them all. Was there an attachment to the email? That is the sign of a Klez. Says something like Download attachement and has a misspelled word in it.

Mill the P79 about 75 to 80 thousandths, shim the cam towers. Good compression will be the result.

Scotty I am down for 70 as well. Let me know when and where, and I'll send money.

Anything is possible. Have you checked with one of the salvage yards that is importing JAP engines to the US? Theoretically, they should be able to get you a front clip of a car using the engine you want, which would also get you an ecu and wiring harness. Just a thought.

Stock in the Nissan engine is 7.4. Anywhere from there to about 8.5 is good. You can turbo your engine, you just won't be able to run very much boost. You can get a thicker headgasket from HKS which will lower your compression somewhat. It is 2 mm thick, versus 1 mm stock. Use a turbo(P90) or P79 head, and you should be better than where you are now. You need to come up with a turbo camshaft, they have a J, B, or M stamped on the back of the cam. If you intercool it, you can run more boost. Here's the deal, compression gives you approx 4% increase in HP for every full point you raise it, boost gives you 7% for each pound you raise it. the turbo one is an approximation too.

Good deal, those are slow. Tailgating an undercover state trooper in AL is a good way to get stopped and fussed at. Of course when he hits the brakes to make you tailgate him, kind of hard to make that one work. You are not going to believe this, but I got a warning and an order to get out of his car. Geez, I guess I made him mad.

I have drag radials, and when there is VHT down, they stick like stink without dropping the pressure. When there is not VHT down, the spin pretty bad. But the stick on the street when I roll into the throttle. Dump the clutch, they are outa here. MT ET Drags man. The only way to go.

Come'on man, out with it. No matter how bad it is, someone has run worse. I got beat by a Grand Prix with a V-6 one time. Had two guys in it too. Of course I was running about 25 mph faster than them when I got my ticket from the guy at the track, but I still lost.

The V-trim is a very good match for a turbo Z engine too. Very responsive, makes good power. Much more than stock. The inlet of the turbo's compressor housing should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.75 to 3 inches too. If it is not, then someone has hogged out a t3 housing, and or pulling your leg. Neither is good. Good luck.

Here is some more info. I know Topend sells a larger injector to go on the ZXT with stock efi. It is a chrysler part number since my buddy got some. Here is what I have found out. Chrysler # P4452803 30lb per hour P4452804 35lB p4529495 42lB p5249452 53lB I checked the price on the 53's and they were 47.55 from the dealer. I am not saying these will work, just saying they may be a cheaper alternative to the Ford or Merc one's. I am going to order a 53 and see what the story is on it. I would really like to find out what car those cam on and go find one. If someone wants to try them, let me know what they find out please.

I hated that racket. If you ever get one of those fan clutches locked up, it is miserable. I had one lock on a road trip from NC back to Auburn, and I had to drive about 55 to keep from feeling like I was winding the snot out of the engine, not to mention the power loss. Huge. Electrics rock.

A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade will make short work of it. When you put it all back together, have a muffler shop cut and flange it so you can remove a section to get to the tranny. Hindsight is 20/20 on stuff like that isn't it? Good luck.

Who is building your turbos? I have seen 1 turbo seal problem, even though the guy would not own up to it. 300zxtt and the turbo on one side smoked something awful at idle, set it back and he checked it and said nothing was wrong with it, but it quit smoking after that. Hum.... I have an intermitant oil smoke problem that may be a seal too. I get smoke when I build a little boost and shift gears. I don't have any oil in the compressor housing, but have not gotten all the junk off to check the turbine. Mine could be rings, or valve stem seals, or turbo. This engine has had a hard life, so even if it were the engine, I would not be upset. Good luck. I hope it is something simple.

Looks good. Wish my car weight 2500 lbs with me in it. Throw some boost at that thing and you should be able to really have some fun. No reason why you should not be able to get down into the low 13's with about 12psi or so. Traction is the key. With street tires, I try to feather the clutch a little and get the car moving before I stand on it. I ran my 12.93 pass on street tires, but never ever got close to that again without drag ta's.

The big benefit with the intercooler isbeing able to raise you boost, and provided you add additional fuel, you get much better power.

I know the bump you are talking about, I experienced it with my 240z turbo engine. I think it is an inherant problem with the efi set-up. I have talked to Clark at JWT about it, and there is not much you can do about it. Raising your boost will lower the rpm where this bump occurs. I can't remember the terminology used to describe what happens, but it sucks, and it is hardwired into the system. It is fuel related too. Kind of like the injectors will only do 45% duty cycle and then all at once they shift to 90%, or what ever the setting is. I don't have that problem with my JWT set-up, and any aftermarket EFI won't have it either. You may be able to do some tweeking with your set-up like reclocking the AFM, but some of the tinkering experts will have to help you with that. I would think loosening the spring a little would help.

Hey, is anyone out there a turbonetics dealer. If so I need a price on the following part number. 30480. This is their new stage V turbine wheel. Thanks