Lockjaw

What kind of boost gauge is it BTW? Does it show 0 psi when the engine is off? I have a VDO model that does not pick up until 2psi, so I don't know what mine is doing until that point.

What kind of boost gauge is it BTW? Does it show 0 psi when the engine is off? I have a VDO model that does not pick up until 2psi, so I don't know what mine is doing until that point.

YOu could have a leak where the barrel washerd get crushed down when you put them in the fitting and tighten the nut. Are they measuring from the same place? In other words, you are not measuring one off the turbo and one off the intake manifold, right? Are you intercooled? I have always used to nylon tubing without an issue, although I may not know I have one. HUMMM...

Comp cams has come back and said they would rec that I run one they offer, although the felt like opening up the lobe centerline to 112 deg would be better. It spec'd out at 214 deg at 50 with .420 lift. Said would give me power from about 1000 up to 5500rpms, which would have to be better than stock. 189.00 and it takes 3 weeks to do it since it has to be nitrided or something. I am thinking about trying it. I told them I did not want one that loped at idle, and I wanted to be able to pull cleanly to about 6500rpms.

I would say you can do anything you want with the charcoal canister. Might need to plug the lines. I have the two intercooler lines, plus a 3 in line for the turbo inlet all plumbed on one side and it is cramped. If you put an electric fan on the rad., then you should have better clearance. Besides, I hate that helicopter sound they make when your engine is warm. And if one ever locks up on you, it will drive you nuts.

A rising rate FPR is one that raises fuel pressure in relation to boost pressure by some multiple. ( say 4:1 which means every pound of boost over O adds 4 extra psi of fuel pressure versus the stock FPR adding one) . An adjustable one, like the one I described from JWT, maintains the same function as a stock FPR, it is just that you can set your fuel pressure where ever you want. Usually the spec for fuel pressure on a Datsun is so many psi at O vaccuum. We will use 36 psi, since that is what mine is set at. So when the vaccuum line to the vaccuum port is not connected to the FPR, I have 36 psi of fuel pressure in the fuel rail. When I connect the vaccuum line, since my car pulls 19 inches of vaccuum at idle, it pulls the fuel pressure down to 26 to 28 psi. As my car comes up on boost, every psi of boost pressure I add over O adds one pound of extra fuel pressure. So 10 pounds of boost would give me 46 pounds of fuel pressure. See? On your car, you could install an adjustable FPR, bypass the factory one on the fuel rail, and richen or lean out your mixture by setting your fuel pressure higher or lower than 36 psi, which is referred to as your static fuel pressure. Check a manual to make sure, I do not know what static is on an NA engine. The higher the fuel pressure, the more fuel that gets squirted in by the injector. Injectors are rated at a specific fuel pressure BTW. If you need a good pump, Cartech has a peirberg which is 200 LPH pump, and it come encased in rubber and fits well in the factory bracket. You will need to get a fitting for it at the parts store so you can slip on the fuel line. I think it comes with a banjo fitting. You don't need a rising rate of gain pressure regulator unless you are turbocharged, and you have to have a very stout pump to use one because any kind of decent boost will seng your fuel pressure to 90 psi or better. I had one on my turbo 240, and had to do a lot of playing with it to keep it from overfueling in 4th and 5th gear since I could get full boost on an engine that was essentially lugged down. Talk about fouling out some plugs. You may also want to pull your plugs in a few days and see what they look like. They should be kind of a tan color, if they are black you are to rich, and if the are real light, you are to lean. Sounds like you are making some progress. Pinging sucks.

I think they already have a post started in the Ford V8Z section on transmissions, but I did not read it. The T5 would go in there easily, but you would have to change some stuff. Good luck.

Yeah, I couldn't get the thing to blow up either. I am using same IE.

You have to read the whole thread to get the idea. I was making a point. Please don't bow up too.

My beloved Nissan engine is descended from a diesel? That sucks.

I think their is more than one kind of behavior that "we" are not about. I made the redneck comment to make a point, it does tend to have a negative sound to it, and I think you as a moderator, and the person who wrote the misson statment should really set an example as to how you want people on the board to act. If you have to come in and be rude as a moderator to someone who was being rude on the board, thats one thing, but the guy was not being rude about the nissan comment. He did not make it sound like Nissan is superior, and without clarification, we might not know. He could have meant its Nissan, which means he won't need metric and SAE sockets. I just hate it when someone has a hard on for someone who likes Nissan. I like Nissan stuff, shoot me. Me lumping V-8 people (like you) into the redneck category is/was no different than you labeling that guy a purist. You obviously like Nissan to a degree, you have at least one of their cars. Cut the guy some slack, and give him the benefit of the doubt. One comment does not make him a purist, multiple ones do. That is all I am saying, and it took a butt load of bandwidth to do it.

BTW, I just back back from the mission statement, and would suggest you read the paragraph before purism. My .02 times 3.

I have a really dumb question then, if you don't like Nissan brand loyalty, then why is there a section on here for L6's. Why not leave that out if that is what you intended? I admit I am a Nissan fan, but you know what I really think is funny. When I take my ZX to the track and lay a major smackdown on some redneck who put a chevy motor is his Z and thinks it is fast. It is a win win for me, since if I lose, he's got a V-8, and if I win, he's got a V-8. The guys main point was he came across a sweet deal on an infiniti v-8, and even you would have to admit, sticking that in a Z would require alot more technical skill than simply dropping a SBC in one. He has way more factory support since the thing will hook up to Nissan diagnostic equip, he has JWT so he could do some mods to the car, and it is DOHC with 48 valves. Cut the guy a little slack. That is a serious hybrid Z, even if it is all Nissan. I bet it would be a sweet ride too. Maybe alot of us are here because we are not exactly purist in every sense of the word. After all, my car has different parts on it that it did not come with. YEs most are still Nissan, but to a purist, I would have to put it back totally stock, which I think sucks. I want to go fast in my own way, and just because you or someone else doesn't like it doesn't you have to have a cow about it. That is what the motto says, when stock doesn't cut it. It may be a stock nissan engine, but it didn't come stock in a Z. Chill man. Thats my .02 times 2.

MOST ALL 3.90 rears I have tried whine in a certain range, which usually works out to be about 55 or so with a 5 speed. I have one that is supposed to be new in my car right now that is fairly quiet, but I have heard some really bad ones before. Most often than not, a set of 3.56 's will be quieter. At least that is what I ave found. Hey what kind of taurus fan are you running? I heard the one off the v-8 model was sweet, but did not see how to make it work. I have a big 16 inch imperial I got at advance, and it works pretty well. It just barely fit on the stock zx radiator.

The car would not run very well at all if the head temp sensor was disconnected. That is one of the things JWT address's when they reprogram the older ECU's. One thing I would recommend is that you buy a can of brake clean at Autozone or where ever, and disconnect the harness from the ecu and spray down both the harness connectors and the ecu pins. Then I would disconnect the head temp sensor, AFM and the IAC and spray boht the pins and the connectors and reconnect. After time passes, sometimes the connections get dirty and cleaning helps alot. I bet you money an ecu or AFM has been replaced simply because of dirty connections. On other thing, you IAC may be stuck slightly open or it may never open, and that could cause your richness at startup, as could a defective head temp sensor, although I am not sure I have ever run across a bad one. If you had a voltmeter, you could get the specs and check the resistance. I would do all of that before getting into the AFM. If and when you decide to go into the AFM, take a sharpie and mark where it is, so you don't lose your spot. It is hard to hang onto that stuff sometimes. You may also want to skeet a little brake clean on the contacts inside the AFM too. I played with mine and never found it made much of a difference, although with bigger injectors it would. The absolute best advice would be to be systematic and scientific in your approach. Haphazzardly adjusting a bunch of stuff is likely to make your car worse, not better. Start with basic stuff like new plugs, cap, rotor, spark plug wires, timing etc, and progress to more advanced items if you need too. I would also recommend you change your fuel filter, and while you are at it, there is one in the inlet of the stock fuel pump that could have crud in it too. Check your vaccuum lines for cracks too. I also recommend running a bottle of STP fuel injector cleaner thru it, the kind in the black bottle. Be aware that injector cleaner lowers your octane, so if you are boosting a lot, be careful. Good luck and let us know what you find.

I like the Q45 idea just because it hasn't been done very much. Chevy engines in a Z are like fart pipes on a honda, they are everywhere. You have to admit, a nice fuel injected DOHC V-8 would have to be sweet. I bet it runs pretty good, gets good gas mileage, and attracts some attention when the hood is raised. Plus if done right, it should be able to be conected to Nissans diagnostic stuff, which he would not be able to do with a SBC. I think the difference would be akin to having my old 305 from my 95 chev truck dropped in place of the 5.3 my 2000 Silverado has. No comparison. The LS1 style new generation small block rocks. Personally, I like turbo power, and I really like the inline 6. I guess you could call me a purist, but I do have cobra MAF. I would love a 240z with an LS6 and a 6 speed in it, but the entrance fee is way to high. Good luck with your swap. I like your idea.

Works for me. BTW, I know this is rude, but what would a turbo like that cost? Just ballpark would be fine.

Dynomax makes a muff that has 2 2.25 inlets and outlets, and it is a pretty slim muffler. I have a 280ZXT and I have a 3 inch system with no catastrophic converter and I have a Hooker Max Flow 3 in straight thru muffler. It is nice and quiet until I get into the boost, and then it has a nice sound. I have the 5 speed and run high 12's. I have also read that one 3 in pipe flows more than two 2.5 in pipes, but the math does not bear that out.

One thing I have always found that helps is to spray it with something like wad40 or pbblaster or what ever and then tap the bolt several times with a hammer or some other metal object. The idea is to get the penetrant into the threads as deep as possible. Vibration helps. You could also buy a bolt splitter and split the bolt so you could get the header off, and then work on the bolt, or take the head off and take it to a machine shop. I had a turbo bolt that seized like that, and it took me the better part of half an hour to get it out. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and tapped it, and then backed it out as far as it would go, sprayed it a tapped it and screwed it back in, and repeated that proceedure over and over until I got the bolt out. Whatever you do, when you put it back together, a little anti seize on the threads goes a long way towards preventing this from happening. If you heat the thing up, be careful it is not to hot when you try to remove it or you will break off the bolt/stud. Good luck with it. I hate those stuck bolts.

Just watch out for the Fuzz. That is ho you draw attention to yourselves, and the fuzz here in Bham love to stop loud honda's. My tip is 5 inches by the way, and chrome. I'm not braggin mind you, but since it was free, what the heck. Should we change the topic to "lets see who has the biggest tip"?

Probably the main area to port that you can get to easily is the turbine flange. To really do a good job of porting the inside, extrudehone is the only way to go, IMO. I think they get 550 to do a cast iron manifold. I have used a dremel tool and some of those sanding rolls to smooth out things on another manifold after I had a T4 flange welded on since it is round from Turbonetics, and the turbo I had was square. I did alot of grinding. I would smooth out any sharp break you see and can reach and roll over any corners and try to smooth out as much of the roughness in there. I would like to figure out a way to grind out those humps that protrude into each runner, but they are for bolt clearance, so I am not so sure about that. Hope you are patient. Grinding cast iron takes a little while.

The money and complication of doing what you propose would be high enough to justify building a 3 liter L6 and buying a trick ball bearing turbocharger. IF you want more torque, just raise the compression some, and run a big intercooler. Or you could transplant a sohc Datsun V-6 in there and with the correct block, you would have 3.5 liters of displacement. Lots of options. IMO

Or the weight of a turbo plus the exhaust system that is not supported by hangers. Cartech could probably fab up a header for you too. Might be a little cheaper than the Trust one.

What kind of rpms are you turning 75 mph? Or better yet, how fast are you going at 3000 rpms in 5th gear? You could add a light flywheel and 3.90's. If you have the good ZX transmission, with 3.90's you will turn about 3000 rpms at 75 mph. Do you have an aftermarket cam? A mild one from Motorsports would help, but you would likely have to swap out springs and retainers and such. Also, what head are you running? Add a mild cam with some compression and a light flywheel with 3.90's and your car will likely drop into the 14's. I like the 260 engine. Whatever you do, plan on using it on the 280 engine so you won't have to re-spend money. In otherwords, get a cam big enough for the 260 engine so it won't be to small in the 280 engine. Get enough clutch for the 260 engine to handle the 280 engine. See what I mean? Good luck, and let us know.

If you are really worried about passing emissions, buy a potentiometer and that will allow you to adjust your resistence. Then you can set it back to no resistence when you have to do emmissions. If you wanted to, you could run the leads and the potentiometer into the car. Also, I would set the timing to factory spec's, and make sure my cam timing was correct since you did swap the head. I know I have done that many times only to find my cam timing to be off a little. Run your tank as close to empty as you can, and then fill it up with super unleaded and see if you have a problem. No sense doing a bunch of work if you don't need to do it. Also, make sure you have adequate fuel pressure, and your fuel filters are not plugged up. You could also look into getting an adjustable feul pressure regulator. JWT has a bosch one that works like the factory one, only it is adjustable. Raise you fuel pressure a couple points and see what happens. I get nervous about cutting a factory harness since you run the chance of losing the integrity of it at every splice point. Not saying people don't do it and don't have problems. I had to do it to mine with the JWT setup I am running. Doesn't mean I liked it. but everytime I have a little hiccup or bump, or the car misbehaves, i wonder if it was that splice job I did. Know what I mean?