Lockjaw

What is the deal with the 84 rotor? Is it from a 300ZX or what? Is it better than the stock 280zx rotor. Thanks for the nice comments on the car. I am slowly working on making it a little faster, but want to get it into a 240-280z body. 240 would rule due to the weight reduction. Turbo upgrade is in my future.

Swapping a turbo in a Z is a little easier than your experience. Man what a nightmare

If you are planning on running stock boost, probably ok, if not, don't waste your time. IMO.

You will not have to enlarge you fuel lines until you get really wild with the power output. I don't know about honing the intake. I think there are humps and stuff in there that would probably tear up the stones on the hone, unless you have one with the little balls on it. I think I would be inclined to leave well enough alone. IMO.

What is Harbor Frieght?

Oh, you need an efi fuel pump, and if you are not running to much extra boost, the stock Nissan EFI pump is ok, if you want to run more boost or a rising rate of gain FPR, you need a stouter pump. Cartech has a nice one that is really stout and wrapped in rubber called a peirburg. It flows 200 liters per hour, so it is a hoss. In a 240Z, I had to take the tank to a radiator shop to enlarge the pick=up tube. I went with a .5 inch, althouh I think I would get the sump from summit and go that route if I had to do it again. Run a fuel line to the engine to feed it, and use the old fuel line for the return line, and I am pretty sure I had to reroute the return line at the tank, so it might not be a bad idea to have that enlarged as well. The stock return line in a 240 would not flow enough fuel and it raised the fuel pressure above what it was supposed to be. Good luck. Rumor has it a stock 75 280z tank fits a 240, and it is already set up for FI. I could not verify that though, so check before you buy one if you go that route before you pay.

You need the harness, AFM, ECU, Injectors. You also need the igniter and coil assembly. If you are not dropping in a turbo engine, you need the distribor and its driveshaft.

I plugged mine and ran the signal from the intake manifold to quicken spool up time. I never had any problems.

I don't know if you can tell by looking or not. I have never really paid any attention to tell you the truth. I dropped a whole turbo engine in my 240, and it fit just fine. I did not have to make any modifications. I think the main difference is the deep part of the pan. I know when I tried to use an early model pan in my ZX, it would not clear the crossmember/streering rack. I had contact there. I would think you would be fine with what you have. Drop it on in just like it was the pan that came on the engine. Good luck.

I know someone who did it, and it did not like boost, went lean. You would have to have an AIC or something working even at your stated boost level. You could try turbo injectors and reclocking the AFM, but I would just swap in the ET harness, fuel injectors, AFM, and go. It is not that tough.

It will fit in a 240Z, because I had one in there. DO you have power steering? i would think that would be the only hold-up. I know my 83 did not like the earlier model oil pan, and I ended up having to replace it after the engine was assembled.

Ross, I cannot get the website to work. Try to email me on my work email. cpeterson@msdudley.com Thanks Craig

All you have to do is increase the thickness of your lash pad by the amount of shim you use. If you do not have different lash pad retainers, then you cannot go thicker than .160, and I think the stock one's are .133. I once had a crower regrind in mine and a milled head and I had my cam towers shimmed up 75 thousandths, and I had .280 in thick lash pads. That was a sweet cam. Send me an email at the office and tell me what the particulars are about the cam, etc, and I think we can come up with a solution. Lockjaw

If you did not stake the timing chain, you are in for a treat. There used to be a tensioner offered that had a sheet metal limiter so the tensioner would not pop out, and I swore i was going to buy one, the next time i rebuilt an engine, but that was 4 or 5 engines ago. Sorry to be in agreement with the rest of the guys, but I think your tensioner popped out.

If you did not stake the timing chain, you are in for a treat. There used to be a tensioner offered that had a sheet metal limiter so the tensioner would not pop out, and I swore i was going to buy one, the next time i rebuilt an engine, but that was 4 or 5 engines ago. Sorry to be in agreement with the rest of the guys, but I think your tensioner popped out.

I noticed the CHT thing. IS the car not running to rich since you don't have a CHT? It should be. What head did you take off to put on the N47? Believe it or not, a P79 head is a really good head, especially if you mill it some and shim up the cam towers and add thicker lash pads to compensate. Most people don't believe that, but it is true. If your car is running to rich, you could put a resistor on the leads to the CHT pigtail, but that is not a very professional fix. It would solve the richness problem when the car is warmed up fully, though, although you might have some starting issues in cold weather. I would suggest you put a thermometer in the radiator and warm the car up fully to determine if you have a richness problem or not. Before I got my JWT box for my 83 turbo, if my CHT connector came loose, my car would just about not run when warm. You should have a similar issue I would think.

Do you have the old head? If so why not just swap the water neck from the old head to your new one and then everything should hook up fine. The head swap is all you did right? I know on a turbo model, there are two wires that connect to sensors on(in) the water neck. I believe one turns on the fan(s) and the other is the temp gauge. I would have to look at mine to be sure, but I don't think the plugs interchange. I would also check the sensor to make sure it is working right. You will need a shop manual for the correct specs.

That sounds like I need to look into the pads you are talking about. I had replaced everuthing in the system except the brake master cylinder. I put Valvoline synthetic brake fluid in there, and had worse problems. Top End said to junk the synthetic and run castrol brake fluid and said I shoulg buy a set of Porterfields if I still had problems. I am going to have to get a new set of rotors. They are pretty cheap, and I don't like to mess around with turning stuff. I am bleeding mine by myself, so I could be having a problem there. I usually attach a hose to the bleed nipple and stick the hose down in a jar with some brake fluid in it, and bleed them out that way. I think I should get one of those bleeder kits. I am not very good at bleeding brakes. I always had to get someone to help me. But I still don't think my pads are worth having, and I need rotors too. I suppose we need to get you the proper CC info so you can send me some of those pads. I will see about getting in touch with you monday.

Depends what direction you come from. Sounds like your directions are from Gadsden, and if that is right, you would be correct. If you are coming up 59 from Bham, you would get off and hang a right and take your first right. Be careful if coming up from Bham as the fuzz is usually hanging around the exit looking for people acting like fools. We usually go up for test and tune on friday night. It is 10 bucks to get in and you can run as much as you can. I try to get there about 8 even though they don't open until 9 so I don't to sit in line for an hour after they open. They are not the most efficient folks and it is usually 10 before people start running. If some of you want to go sometime, email me at my home address, and I will meet you up there. I am only about 20 minutes away. I have to swap my diff before I go again, and I think it is getting time to rebuild/replace my turbo. I am trying to break 115 mph in the 1/4 and 90 in the 1/8th on this turbo before going larger. Then it will be time to go to the 240-280z body and see what happens.

I am runnning hi 12's in the 1/4 mile at 113 or so mph, and when I try to stop, I get awful fade, and then that noise, its awful. I have to go all the way to the end of the run off, and then I still have to whip the car around. I am planning on looking into getting a 240-280z, so I don't want to spend the money on Brembo's for this car, I am just looking for some good pads or some sort of upgrade like the 4 runner calipers for the early model Z's. This car sucks in the stopping department, So I was hoping someone had some experience with some pads or had some problems like I have, and could tell me the deal. I am planning to upgrade my turbo soon, so I have got to address the stopping issue. I am running drag ta's on the back. Thanks

I am in Argo actually. Between springville and Trussville. I live on the good side BTW. I will check out some of the links and see what is up. Do you ever go to steele on friday nights for test and tune? I go sometimes with a couple of friends.

Anyone know if there is an upgrade for a 280Zx or brake pads that work well. I am having much difficulty getting my car to stop when running thru the quarter mile. I have some semimatallic's from NOPI, and they suck. Thanks

If that turbo is the same as the one the turbohouse sells on ebay, I think it has a dash 11 compressor wheel, which is pretty big. I should also have the stage III turbine wheel, which is the most popular wheel in the hybrids.

If you have access to a P90, and can manage the swap, I would swap the heads. I had a P90A, and it was great until the lifters started going bad. New ones are expensive. I also believe that the P90 head with solid lifters makes a little more power, and it makes a lot more than a P90A with lifters going bad. If you have the P90A and like it, more power to you. You couldn't give me one again.