rickyellow zee

I installed my passenger side msa "Buller mirror" and it is utterly useless in seeing anything at all. I can't angle it enough to make a difference. I'm going to stick a convex mirror to help things out. Anyone else have this issue? The only plus is they look attractive.

I used quilted maple. No quite as polished looking as above but it serves me well.

"the increased amount of fuel is constant when the temp is 70 deg C" but correction by intake air temp is always monitored. It would make more sense to hack into this sensor to adjust fuel one would think. This is what is shown on the graph above. Maybe my perception is wrong. Meh, old technology.

Ive researched and cant find the answer. I figured it was a scam.

So the CHTS DOES plays a role in how much fuel is sent at all times. Interesting. From all the posts I've read recently I was under the impression that it goes on a "set map" after 3500 regardless of sensor input. Dumps a certain amount of fuel only tweakable by the FPR. Learn something new every day! When I purchased my car a few years back the previous owner was using the stock 78 ECU/AFM with an 83 L28ET swap by adding a resistor to the CHTS wire. It worked but only at partial throttle. Since then I have converted to the right ECU and AFM.

The ol CHTS trick eh? I thought it might have been something different like controlling the AFM signal wire. That could work as well..... The thing with altering the CHTS wire is that the ECU only reads the CHTS in certain conditions. At around 3500rpm its no longer used, goes by the ECU map. How was he controlling fuel past that?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BLACK-BOX-Fuel-Control-Unit-Datsun-Toyota-Fiat-AlfaRomeo-BMW-L-Jetronic-/351427381142 I came across this "black box" fuel controll unit while doing research on bosch L Jetronic AFM's the other day. My guess is it alters the output voltage coming from the sweeper arm in the AFM and tricks the ECU in thinking theres more or less fuel. Not sure but it looks just like a potentiometer and the installation calls for splicing into only one wire. It seems to do a good job in the vid of leaning out the guys air fuel mixture in the upper rpms. Now it was my understanding that the ECU dumps a set amount of fuel past 3500 rpm and cannot be adjusted. Any ideas how this box might work? I may try and splice into my AFM return signal wire and add a pot to see if I can alter the air fuel in the upper rpms. Your thoughts on how this product works?? Thanks

Its a 5 speed and I just did the clutch last year. Injectors were serviced last year as well. Im going to have it run on the dyno soon with a wideband hooked up and see what I get...

Thank you first off. Its a 5 speed..... Like I said Im new to the L series. It could be that everything is fine, Maybe, I dont really know. lol. My other turbo car does run leaner and no black smoke when I get on it but thats another car all together that has been fine tuned over years. In the future I plan on going megasquirt but thats after I reach the current ECU, injector and turbos limits. I would like to see what the current setup is capable of first when running properly. It just seems odd that when a sensor is unplugged it acts like nothing has happened. Ive read other posts regarding the CHTS and when it gets unplugged the idle usually goes to shit. Mine does not. Dunno man.

Next up I want to try another AFM and see if that helps.

More tests... I get continuity when I plug my multimeter into the CHTS plugs ground and the other end to the engine harness ground. This tells me that the ground is good. I used the ohm meter and I get 0 which is excellent. Its going from the CHTS plug through the ECU, out the harness to the grounds that attach to the engine. Everything seems good there. Took the casing off the ECU and tested the CHTS at the pins inside and I get the readings that are on the graph in the FSM. The info is getting to the ECU thats for sure. I have to rule out the CHTS as an issue at this point. Or no?

m not using the narrow band to tune my car. lol. Just so you know Ive been driving turbo charged cars for over 20 years now and I get it, have had my other car (CRX) tuned multiple times. I know what im talking about for the most part. Cool? No punk kid here. Im a guy well into his 40's. lol. Now my narrow gauge has served me well in the past. I know its no replacement for a wide band and it cannot be trusted for tuning purposes but it does give me some sort of idea of where my air fuel is at. Its not fully pegged to the right indicating full rich so I have an idea where my tune is at. Also I never said I wanted to be stoich for WOT. I get it again!!! A little richness is a goood thing. Lowers temps etc. Safety!! YES!! My CRX has been boosted for over a decade making 235 to the wheels on a 1.6 D series. This motor made 110hp at the most stock. This is cause I know what Im doing. Know when to have it tuned when I increase boost., add a mod ETC. Know how to read my various gauges. Datsuns and the L series are relatively new to me and I appreciate the help that you guys offer. Thanks for that... Thats why Im here. Ive had quite a few rude smart ass answers here but you get that on forums. har har. Now I have no numbers numbers numbers to give yall regarding mileage. The car is a weekend cruiser and I top up the tank when its low. Cant tell you how many MPG. Dont know where to go from here....more tests. Yay!

The car is stock except for a muffler and boost is at 11 lbs.I know its not the most accurate gauge but it gets you in the ballpark. Right now when I go WOT it goes almost full rich. The car is fine at partial throttle with the gauge reading Stoichiometric. If I could only lean out WOT and leave idle and partial throttle alone. I know you can adjust the AFM but that leans out the whole curve. Not so good.

The fpr I tested a while back. Don't remember the numbers but I do remember it was in spec. The vacuum hose is new. I had replaced the exhaust/intake gasket recently and replaced all vaccum lines, all injector plugs and cleaned up any wiring on the injector side that needed TLC. Just trying to get this ol girl healthy. Still dont know why the CHTS makes no difference if its plugged in or not. That HAS to mean something. Thanks

What to test next?

The resistance numbers matched the chart when tested at the ecu and sensor so I guess that rules out the wiring. .03 ohms at 80C. 1983 ECCS and yes I was testing the right pins(23 26). I did not test with the CHTS disconnected.

I may open the ecu and test from inside? Not sure if this can be done.

Did just that.

Car is 78 280Z with 83 L28ET. The car starts no problem and runs fine but under WOT its rich according to my narrow band air fuel gauge and the black poofs of smoke when I get on it hard. That and poor gas mileage. I figure its the CHTS so I did the tests as per the FSM and everything checks out. I recently cleaned up the CHTS wiring as it was old and needed attention. So when the engine is cold I unplugged the CHTS plug and no difference at all in operation. I then jumped the CHTS plug with a paperclip and still no change. TonyD once said that doing this should trick the ECM into thinking that the car is cold and go rich. Nothing... I took it for a rip to heat it up and checked to see if the ECU's LED was blinking indicating the 02 sensor is working. I then unplugged the CHTS when warmed up and still no change at all in the idle. I read that when the CHTS is unplugged the car should bog out due to too much fuel. Mine does not. It appears that the CHTS and ECM are not communicating. At least that's what I think. Any input or other tests I could try to correct the rich condition at WOT. Thanks Rick

Looks good. In better shape than mine was.

I plan on rewiring my CHTS with new wires cause the old wires are crusty. Is it okay to wire the ground wire directly to the chassis instead of back to the ECM? I also plan on rewiring the AFM ground as well to the same location.Thanks.

Im looking to get a set of SSR Mk2's for my 78 280z. I currently run coilovers and have stock fenders. I plan on shopping on Yahoo japan as they seem to have the most selection. I have searched for what offset to get but things are still unclear. Spacer this rolling that etc...not interested in masaging the car to make rims fit at all. I just need to know what size offset will clear without the use of spacers and rolling of fenders. Im sure I can fit a 7" wide rim zero offest under the stock fenders but how about 8" wide. Will the offset be different with wider wheels? Will it require rolling and other mods? Thanks very much for your time.