rickyellow zee

Tube was used. Thick walled tube, no pipe. lol The flanges are 1/4" and were machined flat as a pancake. The welds look great as well. I think it is a great alternative to chopping the threaded tube off and buying a longer tube and having it re welded. **** that shit, Besides I installed a new spindle pin, new bushings, cleaned everything up so it would be a shame to have to tear it all apart and start from scratch. I cant see any problem that I could face with this setup. Off road guys use these spacers all the time and they beat the shit outta their trucks. This is a street car that will see very little track time if any so im not worried in the least. As for the lowering of the shock mount, I cant see it being a problem. Im just happy I can finally start on the front now. Lets go!

I had these machined at the local shop. Top notch work. This should level things out.

Its a pain in the ass, not a hard job but lots can go wrong. Snapped studs, stripped bolts that are hidden. bla bla bla.

The rear adjusters are on top, the fronts are on the bottom. It will be a pain but that's life. I will drill a hole in the bottom of the strut tube for adjusting. I understand that I will have to remove the steering knuckle to get access but that's life. Once I find a stiffness I like I will leave it. Not worried.

Actually it's pipe. Air compressor pipe I have at work. Thanks.

I know a local guy who said he will weld for me if I bring him the materials. I cant find a flange with the same bolt pattern as the top hat to make the top and bottom portion so Im going to have to get a hole saw and drill out a 4" piece of 1/4" metal and drill my own holes. For the middle I will use some thick walled pipe. It'll work.

Here it is but its pricey and its gonna be hard to source . Half way down the page on the left. http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-076-2.pdf

I think this might work if the bolt spacing is the same. They come in 2 and 3". They are used for levelling ride height on trucks.

Thread pitch is 2.0 . Thickness is 2".

I'm not sure of the stiffness of the springs and I will check the thread pitch to see what's going on there. From what I understand these are rebranded JIC coilovers. Not sure if that helps. I'll have more info soon...

Exactly. I set the pre load on the spring and the stroke is the same at any height. Maybe I can fab an extension at the strut tower. Sandwich a 2" piece of metal between the top hat and strut tower.

I used the stock top hats to add some length to the assembly. Still seems short IMO. I guess the stock spring/stut compresses quite a bit and the coilover is more stiff. We shall see how things look when the car is lowered off the jack stands.

Im in the process of installing S13 coilovers on my 280z. The coilovers I have are Up Garage from an S13 which are height adjustable by threading the assembly into the strut tube. My question is how many threads of the spring/dampner have to be screwed into the strut body. What is safe? As it is now the strut and spindle are together and its allot shorter than the stock assembly I took out of the car so I think Im probably going to have to run them screwed out quite a bit as I dont want the car slammed. Thanks.

Does anyone know the thread pitch for the rear hub. Its the one that the lock nut holds the spindle together with? Its the 27mm one. I messed up the last 2 threads while doing a rear bearing replacement. Thanks

Thanks

Does anyone know the thread pitch on a 280z front spindle? I need to clean up the threads before installing the hub. Thanks.

The old one is back on. I cleaned up the wiring and went with a pertronix coil. Problem went away. car revs up well and pulls strong. I'm not sure how things will go when the ignition module heats up again in the warmer months. Time will tell. I guess the HEI I used was too cheap? Dunno.

I moved the ground to the coil bracket, didn't work....swapped the g and w wires, car would not start. Swapped the g and w wires back and it started but problem still persists. I think maybe something is wrong with the hei. I'm going to put the old one back on and see if things go back to the way they were. Stumped.

Im gonna start with moving grounds first. I keep reading about the grounds having to be solid. If the grounds don't fix the issue then I will try swapping W and G wires. The car worked fine yesterday but not today after the swap. Must be the HEI. If all fails then old (un)faithful goes back in.

I have an issue with the car sputtering out and dying with the stock ignition components. When cold the car has zero issues. The car gets hot... it dies, let it cool for 15 minutes it starts and goes like nothing happened. After doing research and asking questions many think its related to the stock ignitor(module) going bad. In the colder months the car runs fine, no issues..Runs like a bat outta hell all the way through the rpm's. I figured I would replace with a GM HEI to fix the problem of the car dying in the warmer months. Engine management is stock.