rickyellow zee

Fabricated a "rest". Done!

Thats the write up I followed. I guess the dude who did the write up has stronger hands than me. lol Im going to the local auto parts store and buying a brake spring tool. See if that helps.

This was what I tried. It didnt work as planned.I had to muscle the springs in place. In the end it worked but I wasnt happy with the hastle I went through.

78 280z. thanks

So I've replaced the seals on my rear brake piston, lubed up the e brake ratchet thingy and now its time to re assemble. I managed after a half an hour to get the springs mounted to the shoes. It wasnt easy to say the least. There has to be an easy way to do this. Maybe a special brake spring tool. I know they sell brake spring tools ,I just dont know what type to buy as there are lots. Anyone have any tips on reassembly to make my life easier as I go on to the other side of the car? Thanks

Thanks

http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/brakes/77drum/ Scroll down about 10 pics or so. They call it a a stopper in this write up. Thanks

Im in the middle of doing my rear brakes and I noticed both of the ebrake stoppers are missing. The part in the pic where the screwdriver is. (not my car) How important are these stoppers and can I get away without using them? My brakes before the brake job worked fine except for the ebrake which would barely engage. I figure I have to adjust the mechanism inside the drum. Thanks

Does anyone have info on these no longer available springs? Like how much of a drop and are they any good, etc? Thanks

Let me know what you got. Eibach, MSA etc. Looking to lower the car 1 to 2 inches. Thanks Rick

3 way tee. Thats all.

So I checked the resistance at the sensor and at the ecu plug. The same at 2.36 ohms. Right on the money according to the schematics. I did a continuity check between the chts black wire and the afm black wire as they are spliced together as per the wiring diagram and continuity exists. Everything so far is spot on. Why does it make no difference when I unplug the chts at idle? The car behaves the same with or without the sensor plugged in. At this point Im almost certain its the ecu plug not mating well with the ecu.

So I wanna be clear. The chts has 2 wires. One wire (Yellow/green) which goes to ecu plug slot 23. I checked and got continuity. The other wire(black) goes to ecu plug slot 26. Continuity exists as well. Is this what you mean when you say to check the ground? Thanks again.

Gotcha. Will try that when I get home soon. Thanks

At idle if I unplug my CHTS on my L28ET swapped 280z there is no difference at all. I read somewhere that the car should bog down when the CHTS is unplugged. Mine does not. From what i understand by reading the fsm the ecu reads the chts all the time. Correct? I checked for continuity between the CHTS plug (which is new) and ECU plug and continuity does exist. I also tested the sensor itself according to the fsm and Im getting the right numbers. Maybe my issue lies in the ecu connectors not mating properly with the ecu? I tried wiggling them as the car idles and no difference. The car as it is runs rich. Thanks.

My AAR (air regulator) stopped working giving me a fluctuating idle and after trying to repair it and failing I decided to scrap it. As it is I have no AAC EGR or VCM controlling my idle. The AAR was the only thing doing so. Without it my car would not idle and die when started. Instead of adjusting the throttleplate screw and messing with the TPS I came up with another idea to controll idle. I put a ball valve where the old AAR went and adjust the idle by allowing more or less air into the thottlebody by opening or closing the valve. Works like a charm! I have it set to idle at 1000 rpm and left it at that. Just another option to keep em running!

The vid is perfect! Thanks so much.

I have them both.

Your link just took me to youtube. Whats the title of your vid so I can look it up. Thanks.

so just press down on spring and the rocker pops off? Sounds easy enough.

First i need to remove the rocker. How. Spring compressor? Details please.

Does anyone have a write up on how to remove rockers and hydraulic lifters for a P90A head. My lifters are ticking when the car is warmed up which means the lifters need a cleaning. The hydraulic lifters are not adjustable so no they cannot be adjusted. Thanks

I cleaned the head with a wire wheel and then I used some fine steel wool. I then used some acetone to clean the surface to get any oil residue off. From the link above.... Intake Manifold Gasket Installation Most Fel-Pro performance intake gaskets are designed without a metal core, to allow port trimming. Gaskets must be firmly adhered to the cylinder head to avoid possible gasket movement. Attach intake manifold gaskets to cylinder heads with a firm-setting contact adhesive. Be sure to use it around intake and water ports. Allow it to dry thoroughly before trimming the gasket and permanently installing the manifold. However, you may temporarily install the manifold to help locate the gaskets while the adhesive is drying. This procedure is especially important on large port heads with narrow walls between ports So it say to use contact adhesive but this is for paper gaskets. Mine is paper, metal, paper. I guess it cany hurt to use some of the spray as its tacky and will do just a fine job as an adhesive.

Im replacing the intake /exhaust manifold gasket on my L28ET with a Felpro paper/metal/paper gasket. I have had the exhaust mani resurfaced so its flat as a pancake. Is it a good idea to use the copper spray gasket sealer on the gasket prior to installation? Ive heard lots of horror stories of people using Felpro gaskets but have also heard allot of good reviews on these gaskets. The mating surfaces are flat and clean. Thanks very much!