rickyellow zee

pics above. Thanks

I installed a gm hei for my L28ET 78 280z as per the writeup skittle provided on another z site and it will not Rev past 2000 rpms. The car started normally but once i Rev it sputters like it's hitting the Rev limiter. also backfires. ANY ideas? Thanks.

This kid will kill himself in a highly modified car if he even has a car. I smell bullshit here.

Got it. This will be easy then.

I have a 78 280Z with an L28ET motor. As it is the vapor canister is removed ( got it that way) and the vent line is open causing fuel odors. I would like to install another vapor can but dont have the VCM to control it. Could I just hook up the vacum line to the intake manifold and run a check valve so the canister doesn't see boost? Maybe I could add a solenoid and trigger it with a switch in cabin at start up and shut down. Ideas? Thanks

Cant find em. I can find the afm, tps and injector plugs but not the ECU plugs.

Bosch ECU plugs? I will take a look on ebay right.....NOW!

After lots of research I am going to bathe them in the sonic bath. Cant hurt.

Im going to do the HEI swap and replace the coil as well with a Fireball. See if that does the trick. Next would be Megasquirt . End the problem for good.

Has anyone used an ultrasonic bath to clean their ECU plugs? My 280ZXT plugs cut in and out occasionally and could use a good cleaning. I used spray contact cleaner with a toothbrush but still the problem persists. I have access to an ultrasonic cleaner at work so I might give it a shot. Anyone?

Heres some good info on the swap. If you dont have all the sensors the ECU will be in limp mode and run off the second map which is less than ideal. I think ill hold off on this swap till I do more research.....read The knock sensor, there again is another problem, along with the fuel temp sensor. when you disconnect those sensors what you are doing is reverting the ECU to limp mode, meaning the basic program Nissan built into the software. This is not the ideal mode of operation for the ECU, and in my opinion you will not get the best results from the basic program, and that is the way the ECU will operate. If you look at the FSM and all of the inputs to the ECU, you need ALL of those inputs to make the ECU operate in its desigend and programed fashion. Nissan designed into the software basically two maps, the primary map that the car is designed to run on. The second MAP comes into play when you get knock and various sensor failures. So you are running on the secondary map from the ECU and it cuts back the timing, and makes the engine run in less then ideal performance to save the engine from basically blowing up because of incorrect fuel/air metering. On a second note, one of the things JWT does with their mods is to mirror image the secondary map with the primary map to vercome sensors like the knock sensors. Another thing that is done is to modify the map for the fuel sensor that basically disables the sensor by setting the trip point to a temp that it never becomes active in the management. here is a site that will give you ome valueable insight as to what Nissan did with their system <http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/turboupgradeforvg30dett/id10.html> What you guys are doing is a very good idea, however to do the conversion properly you really need to do a complete swap, and make provisions for differences like theknock sensor for example. FINALLY: What are the advantages of the Z31 ECU over the 280zx ECU. Well many things, but higher performance is not one of them. You will get better fuel mileage if done correctly because you are now dealing with a 16bit digital system in stead of an 8 bit analog system, so you get better resolution and management overall from the z31 ECU. You can program the unit, you cant do that with the 280 system for the most part. The system is newer and more accessable. You will get better bottom end then the 280 system, that was the first thing I noticed with my JWT system, and that was the biggest reason I changed out my stock system amoung other things. I HATED the bottom end of my stock system. Anyway, I just had to comment on the topic as I have read manyt times and no one has ever mentioned all of the sensor issue.

Thanks for the reply! Lots to think about. So what I get from reading the diagrams is all 3 conditions need to be met to engage the power to heat the wire to 1000c. I need to find out what the voltage to the wire is and if its 12v then Im cool with wiring a switch and doing it manually. No problem there.

I figured I would just start a new thread instead of replying the the thread below as Im sure I will be needing more help.

The details of my conversion are 78 280Z with 83 L28ET, 83 L28ET harness and distributor. ....Im going to be doing the conversion soon and have read the how to's regarding this swap and understand most of it but need clarification on the "MAF Position F/wire 12 r/w (for cleaning cycle) to 33 y/l wire from z harness". This was originally automatically controlled by the speed sensor on the Z31 and my 280z does not have one. First off what is this "cleaning cycle" and what should I do about this part of the wiring process? F wire 12R/W from MAF to where? Thanks

I'm about to the the GM HEI mod on my L28ET powered 78 280Z. I've gone over lots of schematics and wiring diagrams and think I have it right. Does this look correct to you guys? Thanks! Rick

The car is a 78 280z with L28ET swap. Every year or so when driving my Z it loses power runs rich (according to my air fuel gauge) and then backfires and ultimatley stalls. ive gone over all of the wiring and did as many tests as I could according to the FSM. Everything checks out. After the stall the car will turn over but not start until I give it 20 minutes or so. Then it starts up and runs as usual. Ive cleaned all of the wiring plugs, sockets and grounds etc. After doing research I think it may be the ignition related. Maybe the coil transistor. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks Rick

Great, just trying to understand how things work rather than just wiring it and not know whats going on. Does it matter if I use the NC or NO to run power to the fan? Thanks

pic

Like so??>?

Does this look right???