josh817

Tony, did you know I was waiting for you to arrive. I saw you've been active in this nontech section and knew you were going to share some wisdom. Notice how I'm avoiding that one word. Oh god Tony, I saw the recent video, that dude is falling apart. Not as bad as bad as the Rolling Stones... I'll just leave this picture here to show what I mean:

Ohhhhhh I have this game. :]

Hi, I'm only 18, 1990's child. I'm a young gun showing interest in your music from almost a half a century ago. Please don't feel bad, I still love you flower children. I really really like this song, to an extent where its stuck in my head: If any of you want to share more of that lovely stuff I'm all ears. I love all types of music minus yodeling. I have a whole calzone with two cannolis. Supply me with things to do while I get fat.

Can we give him a nickname?! Pleaseeeeeeeee please please! was thinking Z Slut. How much do those early VIN Z's go for these days?

Here is the car I saw today. Dog legs/rockers are all solid, not sure what the bondo patch thing is in one of those pictures. All the rust you see is surface rust, there are NO rust throughs on here. Basically it sands off and you're good to go. The current hood has bullet holes in it, so there is another hood which I would put on for you before it went. As you can see the right front fender is dented near the headlight bucket. The fender is on there loose right now so it can be taken off and replaced with another fender which I can source for you as well if you wanted. The windshield does have the left over bullet holes. No, the car hasn't been in a crime. The previous owner left it at some hill billy's house for storage and they got pissed that he wouldn't pick it up. You know how Texas is. The interior looks good as well. The suspension has Eibach springs and Tokico shocks, the car was being built for road racing. Unfortunately I can't use 280 suspension on a 240 so that will go with the car. I'm looking for $1000 OBO. What I will be pulling is drive train stuff like motor, tranny, rear end, etc.

I'm going to check out a '76 280z with title tomorrow. All I'm wanting from it is the motor and drive train, so I'll let you know about the rest of the car. I'm located in the DFW area and know some car transporters if you need that.

Tony, what do you think of my ignition table? Cam comes in around 3000-3500 RPM so I wanted most of my advance coming in at that time. I think right now I'm at 35º total advance with my dizzy setup, but I feel like I can go more. My current idle advance is 15º and I can't get an idle lower than 1400RPM unless the motor is cold. With this cold weather, its starting to idle at lights at like 1700RPM I'm wanting 800RPM idle. It may have something to be with the mixture too. I don't have a wideband yet so I'll have to see. Rev limiter is set for 7000RPM and with the way they have their system, the advance drops to 0 100RPM before the limiter, this way you don't cut spark with full advance. I think the idea was to cut the power significantly before you cut the spark.

Flatblack, yes. Not to mention I already have the MJ unit and installed Dereks crankfire setup, etc. Tony, I don't even know how the dizzy thing was a valid idea. My dad has a customer with a TR6 and he complains that the car pops out of gear when off throttle. The gears are meshed together as long as power is going through them. A good tranny shouldn't be able to pop out of gear without yanking on the shift lever while on throttle. If the dizzy is spinning off of a gear on the crank, shouldn't that "slack/slop" be taken up as long as the RPM is accelerating? Seemed like a silly idea when I first heard it.

No no no, you guys are missing what I'm saying. I'm saying I will save MS for a later time. Right now I have MJ which is only ignition. I won't run a turbo dizzy because that means I'll have to pull the oil pump and, change the spindle, and then wire accordingly. MJ was made for EDIS, and I think made by the same people who did MS? If I'm going to invest my time in wiring, installation, and money, I will go with EDIS because like I said, conjoin it with MJ and I have all the stuff I listed. I didn't say MS didn't have that stuff, MS has a ton of stuff that I won't have, however I only need ignition. Really when you think about it, a VR sensor and trigger wheel are the same thing as the turbo dizzy since its a CAS. I guess I could say "well it gets rid of that spindle slop since its running off of a gear" but I don't thing that slop even plays a role unless you have worn gears. By the way, this is not the place for what I'm fixing to do but I just want to show everyone my first attempt at making an ignition map... Uh not sure if this will work out well... at all... Haha oh well I guess. I need to finish up wiring.

Yah I'm running a Warner HEI module. Lifetime warranty from O'Rileys! http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html However, I like EDIS because I can change the ignition events and it gives me a rev limiter. Good rev limiters are like $100 right? I spent $100 + $80 for my Megajolt. The other great thing is the 0-5v input. I can have a datalog of TPS, RPM, ignition, and AFR. I'm glad I did TPS rather than MAP because it will really help to see what percentage I'm at compared to the AFR. Should show my what jets are screwing up and stuff.

Yay for 300zx TPS on a Weber throttle shaft! Requires one 4-5" piece of right angle aluminum, one aluminum rod about 3" long. Drill and tap rod for M7 threads. Either use a lathe or hand file the other end so that it fits into TPS. Drill proper holes on angle iron and install on the 2 screw holes used for the idle adjustment screw. They should be open on the firewall side since the linkage is on the left side of all 3 carbs. Get 2 more idle adjustment screws or find a source for metric hardware. Install >> exert pride >> profit 300zx automatic transmission TPS has the TPS reading on the pigtail and the switch (I guess this is for full throttle) on the plastic shell itself. I like how mine turned out, looks very clean! /win!

Let me show you something :] I came from a turbo car. I've experienced the driving. Carpet jumbled up on gas pedal, went to shift, no rev limiter, knocked ever since.

I didn't fail the most basic stage, I just stumbled over more information, and more good deals. I changed my headers because I found member on here who was selling his 1 5/8" primaries headers. Change my ignition because thats cool, etc. Keep in mind, during my build I was poor. I was more than poor, I was in debt to my financier, my momma. Costs were kept to a minimum, time was of the essence. I regret that, because my port job was decent right until you hit the most important part, the bowl. And then I didn't purchase atleast ARP rod bolts, and Datsun rod bolts suck. thats why I want to get this Z for $1400, maybe if I can talk him down to something even less! Who knows, it may have forged pistons and some super cool rods. It'll have a V07 crank, LSD, ported head, and a "Stage V" cam. I don't think I will use that cam though. MSA Stage IV to Stage V goes from .495" 290º to like .560" 300º... Depending on the port job on this head. I may touch it with my own tools, but if it looks nice I'm going to say no way, this is too nice. We have to machine shops, 1 for general block boring and crank turning, and the other that does custom stuff. The custom stuff guy has a 5 axis CNC machine and he said if I come in with a ported head he can like scan or do whatever with the port, and then have it on file so I can just bring heads to him and he CNC ports it. I don't think I could bring in people from here or anything to have their heads CNC ported. I don't even think CNC porting is that much cheaper than hand done port job... Meh all I'm saying is that there may be another stroker motor going into the car...

Never! I love my stroker. I believe in power that can be hooked up and realistically as a student I can't afford whopping tires to hook the power up. Woldson, I'm getting off the pot, if you need to take a dump, now is the time because I will back for this... Although, it would make sense for me to get that non-webbed intake and throw it in storage. I see the prices are going up for those things. I have the webbed type sitting in the garage right now. Perhaps I cut the runners off of it right around the injector and then TIG weld some long straight runners onto those so it resembles Johns yellow race car, or was it Pauls race car? And hey! I like my rods! These 2000 Roadster ones aren't turning out as nice as my L24 ones. They're heavy. Like 840 grams, stock is 912 grams... I didn't know I made you cringe, oh you'll hate this then. I think I'm going to invest my left over insurance money in this "ex SCCA" 280 that has a stroker in it, ported head, LSD, suspension stuff, headers, and a set of twin round tops, and spare parts. His price is under $1400 and if I get a nice LSD, another 5 speed, a ported head, and a stroker motor (tear it down for the crank, rods, and pistons), sell the car as a roller to someone for like $200. I'm a happy man! Woohoo! Thanks guys for the pep talk. It still scares me but now I consider the task a more reasonable one. I'll play with Megajolt for now and if I want to switch to MS then I wil already have all my wires for the coil pack, VR sensor, TPS, etc.

Yes Tony, valid point, however I'm getting very tired with swapping things around. If I do this it will be done how I want it the first time. I've gone through way too many things and then swapped them out for something else. 2 headers, 2 exhaust pipes, 2 ignition setups, soon to be another head, etc. Unless the other stuff resells then it gets expensive. Even when I do resell stuff, obviously I don't get all of it back, thus is the price for screwing around. I don't want to put in MS1 just to learn it and then switch over to something else. As for flat black, this Megajold install I'm having to find 12v for the coil, module, ECU, etc. The TPS unit and the VR sensor are the only things that go back directly to either the module or the ECU without having to splice into a voltage source or something else. You mentioned the 12v power source to MS, well what about all the sensors and stuff? Stock wires you're using or something? 240, remember, I have water temperature, oil pressure, and 12v to the coil. 3 wires, I love it! Eh, now Megajolt but thats ok. The reason why I feel so comfortable with Megajolt is yes, I learned the stuff, but the learning experience was EASY. They literally have their website setup like Wikipedia so I knew how to navigate and everything. Pictures of the board with a step by step "D3 will go on spot labeled D3 with the stripe facing this way, here is a picture". I printed off every page, laminated it, and added it to my big Datsun Bible. It was very coil and very fun to make because of that.

I agree with all of you. I agree with Woldson on the carbs... Thats one thing that scares me too, "one day they will be gone" but I mean, so will EFI one day... I think? I also agree with Rolling Parts. You're introducing many new things, sensors, which can all go faulty. Most of them are pretty cheap to replace but you have to find the problem first. And yes, I also agree on the do it right the first time. I was crapping my pants the first time we started up my motor because I kept looking back to the time when a friend of my dads started up his Vette engine for the first time and it puked all of its fluids onto the floor. I had little silly problems like the water out fitting which screws into the block and goes to the heater. I never put sealant on it and it and yah it leaked, I overheated, refilled and fixed. Easy fix because I could see it right there! Example, oh hey, my throttle doesn't work, I wonder why? Pop the hood, linkage is broken. I mean seriously obvious stuff when you have this barebones stuff. I already have nightmares about my Megajolt because I did the board myself, pretty sure I burned it in spot. The wiring is minimal which tricked me into thinking it would be fun to do it and such. I went to read on what gauge wire they have me using, it says like a 14-16 gauge wire for coil power coming out of the MJ... They give you like a 12 pin molex connector, and you're suppose to hook the wire onto the barbed pin, stick it in the connector and you're set. How do I... fit a 16 gauge wire... on a tiny pin?! What the hell?! Ok so now I'm picturing that, but with twice as many wires, because I only have like 10 wires that I'm using here... We all know that when it comes to the wiring, it is highly preferred that we do it ourselves so if and when something goes wrong you can search through your own work rather than someone else "mess". However, that leaves you open to errors... and those will melt things, and cause fires sometime, and thats a serious thing that I don't want to mess with. I already know that I will buy a premade board if I went that route, but as stated above, they have tons of extra stuff you can add on. I'm not looking for 10 outputs, give me a tach, give me maybe a shift light, a rev limiter, fuel control, and EDIS ignition control, I'm good. Oh and it doesn't help to think that I initially sold ALL of my turbo stuff to build what I have now. I HAD the MSII and harness, write up, etc. DOH! Haha Like you guys said, some things will need changing physically to be able to install MS. I'm all for the idea, but I baby this car. I don't want to get into the whole Z spirit, keep it original crap, this is hybridz and that would be breaking one of the rules too. All I'm saying is, as a 240, I don't want to put like a wide body kit on it, I still have serious consideration of flares but that requires cutting. I had serious considerations for other changes too but those changes would be permanent. Ok so MS probably won't be a permanent change, but the wiring... splicing into the original harness and all that nasty stuff. Eh.... Its either time for me to man up or get off the pot. Perhaps I just save all this stuff for a later time... Maybe I just go ahead and put a ton of ♥♥♥♥ on my 240 and don't worry about how original. I'm not even original right now, I'm mediocre. I have gauges from 280's, MSA Type III air dam, for godsake I already drilled holes in the hatch to put on the spoiler. This stuff won't depreciate the value, it looks cool, and its affective. Can you see I'm trying to talk myself into this...? Its going to happen eventually. I'm already starting to commence Project WTF and buying some KA24DE heads... along with a few other goodies... :icon15::icon15: Because I have a personal vendetta against Brian (1 fast z). Woops, I mean... I have the resources here at school now! Yah yah, thats what I meant. Thanks for the help guys. I won't do the conversion right now. I'll do it later on when I'm not a student with other needs. Wait until my Z is a second car, and until carb stuff starts disappearing. Unless if I all of a sudden consider wiring up stuff fun, I'm going to have to be shoved into MS I think. I do like making my engine bay all nice and handsome though! Organizing and cleaning is a wonderful thing to do! Get rid of your messy engine bays, HBZers!

Alright guys, I'm being intrigued by EFI. I'm using a set of triple carbs right now and yah thats all fun and stuff and I love how everything is mechanical. I don't worry about jet prices because if and when I go to mess around with that, I use 2 sets and just solder/ream a set to whatever I want. They are really cool and such but I mean stuff that you can't do on your own at home, like change your own venturis, because you have to buy sets of 6 at $20, no fun. I've been lurking around all day on here and DIYauto or whatever and it looks exciting but I'm going to admit, I'm use to being spoon fed when it comes to wiring. I mess around with Megajolt and they have entire schematics all nice and pretty for you and stuff. I know there are places that do the same thing for MS but thats my point... there are places not like a main central place. From what I read in the MS intro guide, MS is open to anyone so whats killing me is that there is so much stuff you can do with it leaving a great big space for error on mix matching firmware, software, installation, parts, etc. Its exciting, very exciting to think about, but thats AFTER you get over the initial installation headaches. What I don't like about it is like I said, its open source stuff and if something goes wrong my Z is my daily driver so I would need answers NOW and I would probably wind up doing a repost on something trying to get help. Whats highly confusing is that I've read up say for instance on trying to get a tach to work on the tach out. Lets just use that as an example since I'm doing my thing on Megajolt and EDIS and its pretty much the same as you guys with MS. Someone comes up with a solution, great! But then you have a 50% success rate with others. Electronics should be black and white, either it works or you did something wrong, so why are there people where it sometimes doesn't work damnit?! Its that ♥♥♥♥ that freaks me out. Diving into something thats not just ignition, but fuel to?! Holy cow, I can see myself in that situation where someone presents a solution and it somehow doesn't work for me even though I follow the directions word for word. Then my car and I are left ground until I can get it to work?! Golly. Not to mention I don't have the funds to be able to screw around with different techniques and go "oh well, I burned up another coil/injector/whatever, get another one" My party is being pissed on by my fears of total chaos. I would say get Dad, the EE to help me but these days with my step mom and troubled step brother, I get put on the back burner. For instance, the other day I had a question about the wiring for my Megajolt. I ask him, he starts talking and the troubled step brother interrupts and persists until he gets what he wants. If my step mom interrupts, she requires the attention otherwise she'll be like "why do you treat me like that". My direct electrical help source has disappeared and if I have any questions I have to search a while to find it and like I said, when this car is my daily driver, I can't run into a situation where it will take several days of searching to fix it. Maybe I should just stick with messing around on carbs... Theoretically, once you have them tuned you apply the "Don't ♥♥♥♥ with something thats working perfectly fine" rule and I should be ok. Have a jet set for summer and a jet set for winter since here in Texas the temperature range is ridiculous. I'm just getting kind of tired not being able to relate to you guys who are running cool sophisticated computers, yet I'm happy I don't have the nightmares that hit some of you every once and a while... Thanks guys.

:coollook:Whats this I hear? Admit it, we were all bait for this one. I feel shameful.

Lets just say 1 fast z, last dyno graph I saw so who knows what he's up to now, was like 489 whp. Twin turbo setup, stock turbos and a spark issue I think... everytime I read this stuff I get excited, wanting to do my own...

If you're still in school or you have sources for like welding (although 1 fast z says welding won't work) and machine work, its really tempting to try the project. Now that I have some cash I may attempt myself, obviously that's some BIG talk though. If I took on the project, I wouldn't spend my time trying to figure out all the stresses and stuff. I think I would just go around and get the opinions of the wise. Ask my machinist and others, ask some people at school who may have some information, that sort of thing. Don't ask 1 fast z, he won't help you. He's accomplished his project and now that its all said and done its like business secrets, which is annoying but I don't blame him at all. If anyone else, I think I've seen 3 so far, attempts to take on the project he is probably your most valuable critic and sometimes its hard to keep it from pissing you off but I mean, the truth sucks sometimes. Having someone piss on your parade isn't exactly what you want in the middle of a project but some of the info will keep your project from dive bombing. I for one, don't take critique lightly so I always get fussy when ♥♥♥♥ like that happens. I'm a strong believer in there are multiple ways to do certain things and I think the whole twin cam head is one of those applications. If I were to do the project, I'd weld. 1 fast z would probably so you're doing it wrong, I'd probably start an argument getting myself or both of us in trouble, then I'd continue on with the project. If it fails then yes, he will say I told you so and even if he doesn't, you know in the back of your head he's laughing with victory. Haha. Won't know until you try, he has his evidence and there are certainly other places that show otherwise on some stuff. (welding was only an example) Those are my opinions towards the subject. If you are interested in starting on your own the best advice I can say is save every picture of a twin cam conversion NOW. I searched around and 1 fast z posted several threads about his project, some he said the timing chain stuff was private information as with the calculations, some he posted pictures of a mock up, and others the posts are so old that the pictures aren't showing up anymore, or my computer is being stupid. So, before anymore pictures expire, save them. The threads with text will still be in hybridz, just get the pictures.

@_@ I have those saved in my favorites. Valuable information considering the L4 and L6 blocks just about the same. My true feelings to this thread is ohhhhhhh god not again!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sir28k91Bd0

You should quit luring the little boys into your lap.

Is this Big Dog our king?