josh817

No I meant like where can I find some lead rods/bricks/whatever? Welding supply perhaps? This is what I am dealing with:

Yes thats the clutch to the crank/flywheel but he wants tranny to motor. The input shaft is just like using a clutch alignment tool which typically comes with all clutch setups, it is a good idea to keep an input shaft lingering around for when you don't have the tool. I think I'm the only one who doesn't drink when building a motor/working on a car... Kidding of course: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6920226674335434446

Thats some real good advice! Thank you! Now time to find lead... EDIT: Hold on, where does one find lead to melt...

Hey now, don't they pay some really good money for that. I think the higher you are in your education, the more they pay! Lets all get our Ph.D's! Make millions, of course. Have to fund the Z some how right? Don't imagine that: http://www.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/80444302/

Just eyeball the splines. We got lucky and ours literally popped right in. I did my flywheel bolts to 100ft/lbs with loctite.

I hope I don't have to do metal work on the pillars... I would really really like to avoid that crap. Me shaping some metal to look just right? Thats a no go, BIG TIME.

Just the resin itself or use actual fiberglass? The epoxy primer is suppose to be waterproof. I can spend the money on bondo or resin, doesn't matter to me. The bondo cracking on the pillars right now is like a good 1/8" thick. Thats why I can so scared to look...

Thats true. I had slight smoke coming from my vent when the motor was fresh. I don't think it does it anymore but if you twist the filter so the bottom faces up you can see a bit of oil ready to drip off of it, plus my manifold isn't pretty anymore either. Run a catch tank so it collects all that goopus. I know the customer I have right now who races a Spitfire for CVAR use to blow by a quart of oil after two races. He would dump his catch tank out into the used oil bin and would spend like $100 on oil since he runs the $8/quart stuff. It was pretty messed up... haha

I honestly don't think its worth your time. Using an L24 rod will give you -2.75mm deck height with an L28 flat top. You would need a piston with a pin height of 35-36mm to achieve -.65 to +.35mm deck height. Plus you are only increasing the ratio from 1.648 to 1.684 and max rod angle goes from 17.661º to 17.277º which isn't much of anything to hoot about. Might as well save your time (even though there isn't any labor difference) and your money on pistons.

Where did you find it? Guess it doesn't REALLY matter the increments... If you take a dyno day and set it up for the most power,well then thats what you want, so what if its you know like 4º advance or retarded, its the spot you want. Right?

Dirties things up. :/

Why not just bust a Josh and go bigger and bigger? >_> Maybe even 90mm! Yah!

I would assume the same but its pretty easy to run a catch tank. I have a vent on mine and it make the manifold so dirty. Mine is like a yellow silver color now. Ebay dudes sell those cheap catch tanks for $20 shipped. Hide the tank under one of the service flap things near the master cylinder, will work out well.

Thats always encouraging Derek... XD I've got an awful lot of bondo on my pillar (other side didn't do anything) I may get some heavy gauge sheet metal and bead it on... I don't know just yet.

Datsun seams, I've heard too much about them, it may be better off to shoot a weld down them all except for the ones that attach panels so you don't get stuck with a panel that won't come off.

Guys I've got a bad feeling about whats lurking under my bondo'd pillars and under the fiberglass side skirt. :[ We'll see. I'd also really like to get metal head light buckets but the fiberglass ones I have now will do fine too. Derek you are the second guy to say Epoxy primer. What is the thing about this stuff since its like $70 compared to a $30 gallon of primer...

Oh and also, how about the pillar rot some Z's get. Mines filled with cracked filler. How should I approach this?

Ok so next week is spring break and I am attempting to paint my car myself. I am thinking about red with black stripes however, if red is too expensive I would like a royal blue. I'll talk with some paint guys later on as to a two stage or single stage. For my sake being a first timer single stage would be preferred however metallic colors need to be two stage I hear. You can read more in my thread with all my new add-ons here so I don't have to reexplain the situation: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145547 With that said, my question is how to approach holes within the body. Big holes, as in like where the antenna went. Fiberglass from the inside of the car so you have something to put filler over or what? I see some people have it filled in and others don't. I'm going to tack weld the trim holes in my doors. The plan for that is to get a copper plate and put it inside the door, this way the copper conducts but the weld doesn't stick to it so instead of trying to weld the edge of a hole, the wire puddle right there on the copper. I may do the same for the antenna, we'll see how it goes. Any pointers on paint, or body work give me a shout!

Man I would love to split my doors so I can paint on the inside but I'm scared none of the locks will work after I'm done... >_

Makes perfect sense! Only things that are getting me is what to use to seal off welds and bondo to prevent it leaking. My car was an Arizona car so there is like barely any rust. Nothing on the body except along the edge of the hood with some surface rust. The biggest area is the quarter windows. Previous owner didn't do gaskets around them so that area is rust but not horrible. I'll buy a can of that stuff which supposedly converts the rust. Spray it on clear, dries black when contact with rust. Lastly, I'm guessing you were saying to sand between base coats it sounds like. Also makes sense. Since I am doing stripes, should I just spray the main color (red), sand that between coats, and then make my last spray the stripes? I think this is where I asked my dad if I am expected to retape the same line for EVERY spray. Oh and idea on filling in the antenna hole since its so big? What about the pillars or whatever you want to call them between the hatch and the quarter windows? Those are known to rust out and I have bondo cracking and falling off on there. Just refill it and move on?

Yah according to the videos I saw they said the a glaze of "icing" was to cover the 80 grit sanded bondo, smooths out the appearance and fills the course texture from the 80 grit. I need to find metal filler. I searched around and found a "Lab-Metal" but this stuff seems like something I have to buy online... Looked as easy as body filler when the dudes were applying it on the video too. If it saves me from rust, hell yah I'll use it. Apparently you can thin that Lab-Metal stuff out and then spray it for a rust proof coating. Will the epoxy primer and sealer take care of any future rust problems? When you say two parts you mean like paint and hardener right? How about the sanding between layers of paint? Do I spray a base coat, sand, spray another coat, or do I just spray several coats, clear coat, wet sand and buff? I'm starting to get the steps down, now I just need to get some practice with the guns to I don't get runs or anything... Things I need to plan for are the big gaping spots on the body. I'm yanking the antenna out I think so that hole will be there, I also have trim holes. I don't know if I should just tack weld those up or something...

Yah isn't like anything past 1200-1500 pretty much as fine as a sheet of paper? I did 220 on our BMW and its smooth to MY touch. I don't have the touch of a painter though so meh. Right now I am researching single stage or two stage paint... Apparently if I want a metallic color, two stage is the way to go. Whichever will work fine to me, this isn't a show car by any means. Watched Expert Village all night and I see that I should find some metal body filler rather than applying bondo first. Metal body filler willcover the steel and isn't affected by water. Rough up the metal filler, go over with bondo, sand to 80 grit, go over with the putty stuff, sand to 220, prime. After doing some research I think I have my steps down, minus the sanding. Two Stage: 1. Strip 2. Prime 3. Fill -Metal filler -Body filler -Putty filler 4. Sealer 5. Base coat 6. Paint? or is the base coat the color paint you are wanting to produce? 7. Clear coat Single Stage: 1. Strip 2. Prime 3. Fill -Metal filler -Body filler -Putty filler 4. Sealer 5. Paint One thing I need to know is how many coats do you spray? 3 or 4 coats, bumping up the grit each time? I was told once before that you just spray however many coats and don't worry about sanding between sprays until you wet sand and buff for the final product... I keep changing my mind but red with black just grows on me too much. If red is too expensive, I'll do blue and silver. Found this picture in our abulms or on google images, I forget. I love this red, same style air dam, black stripes, spoiler will be black and mirrors. I put the black on in Paint so shush. Ok something I am dying to know still is the front cover seal. What do you guys think?

Except for the carbs. ! Hey, unplug that crankcase vent mister... :/

Alright Dad said his small air compressor is the oiled type. Harbor Freight has some cheap guns. The ones I'm looking at only have a 20oz gravity fed cup, there is one that has the cup on the under side which is 1 quart. I'm not to sure which to pick but I can imagine the gravity fed ones will be hard to control... $60 comes with two guns, 1.4mm and 1.8mm tip for the big one and 1mm for the smaller one. I don't know if I will like a 20oz cup though... If I run out in the middle of a spray I'm going to be screwed. They are all HVLP guns by Central Phnuematic. Quite honestly this is all very very new to me so really, if you view this thread and you know what you're talking about, throw in some pointers. I have no idea what to do for primer or paint, too many different things like primer, sealer, hardener, paint, reducer, etc. I don't know the order, nor do I know what to get. I'll head over to the body shop this week and ask them, hopefully they will have the colors I want on the shelf. I guess I will have to do it outside and just use a face mask since I don't have a respirator. I'll need to get the gun, paint and any of the crap that goes with it, Aircraft Stripper (works awesome), lint free shop rags, 5lb of bondo, sand paper pack, Mineral Spirits, butcher paper, and paint tape, paint filters, paint stirrers. What grit sand paper in what order? Beats me. I saw some Expert Village videos and the guy said 320-420 for final primer sand before paint. 1st coat of paint will be like 800 grit and final coat is anything from 1200-2000 grit, clear coat, then a buff. Still don't know what 2 stage and 1 stage is but I think I want 2 stage.

New plans... I'm not sure how painting goes but I think I'm going to pay the body shop lady to spray the car and I will sand. Should only be like $150 to spray plus paint. A friend talked me into staying out of red and doing silver but I that dark red still pleases me. I'm sure that picture has been tossed around her a lot. I like the paint but of course the contours catch our eye. I won't have any of that, at the max I will have some small flares if I have to use spacers for the brakes and my wheels stick out a little. I think I can do the ignition on a weekend because paint will probably take up an entire week if not two. I think the process goes: -Strip -Primer -Bondo -Sand -Primer -Sand fine -Paint -Sand finer -Paint -Sand finest -Clear coat I'm not really sure nor am I interested in sanding a ton. I wouldn't mind if it was at home but I don't have a compressor nor a spray gun, mask, plastic shelter, etc. Basically, once the car is disassembled I'm not putting it back together until paint is done. That sucks since it will be over in a different location rather than my garage. I'm not looking for anything fancy, I just need paint. I may invest in a cheap spray gun and some nozzles and use a buddies air compressor. Dad has a giant one thats oiled so it doesn't run too much and if it does it doesn't matter, my buddy on the other hand my have an oil free one and I know its the smaller 10 gallon type or whatever that sits horizontally. If its oil free, running it for an hour at a time will ruin it since the bearings are nylon I do believe... If I do that I can clear out the garage, spray it out with a hose and then tarp off the doors or something. I'll look into that.