josh817

Well I guess I'm being impatient but it seems kind of annoying that people are posting in "How to start my l24" but don't find any interest in my post. With that being said I will keep posting my findings in case if it helps others. As you can see my problem isn't MISSING parts but its like I have TOO MANY parts. I literally went down the schematics and everything is accounted for minus the voltage reg, and the horn relay which I know I have because my horn works and I hear it clicking but the clicking sounds like its coming from somewhere else. A horn draws lots of current so maybe the giant wht/red wire to that relay thing down by the passengers feet is it, although it doesn't sound like tis coming from there. This is a questionable piece here, don't know what it does. There is either color fade or there is truly 3 B/Y wires on top with 2 bridged together, 1 Black, and 2 Greens. This makes no sense to me. Now if that isn't the voltage regulator, I do have this plug. The one that has its mate which goes to nothing so it must be some sort of self done thing. This would make sense because to convert over to a ZX alternator, you basically pull all 6 wires from the "circular" type voltage regulators: Images provided by Atlanticz.ca (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html) Study those pictures and then look at this diagram which shows the location of stuff. The plug which is on a short pigtail has 5 wires: Note that there is a Y/B wire from the alternator which is also present on this plug, yes the colors don't match the diagram above however the type of plug and location do. Also note the condensor: Next up is near the coil. I have another relay however I highly suspect this is a headlight relay due to matching wires at the combo switch and to the relay. I will see if they are connected once I get my voltmeter to work properly... You can also see 2 stray wires like I said that went with the water temp wire, I think these are for the dizzy from the same diagram as above, focused in the area. Along with the stray connectors is a B/W wire which I know is for the coil from ignition and you can kind of see it in the diagram too. Lastly these are the only things I still don't know... Passenger side foot area mounted on the side wall.

You can do a clearance check on the pump and make sure everything is ok. Thats what I did on my rebuild because I knew the pump worked just months before so it should work now. Next oil change/EDIS 6 install I'm buying a new one though as I will have it off to trim my dizzy spindle. I have a Black Dragon Automtive catalog that has the turbo pumps for $50 + $7 shipping. I'll get the PN for yah when I get home if you want.

Well upon more research I'm starting to think the unknown thing I put on my firewall is the voltage regulator as this write up is showing a '73 240z with a rectangular connector. However, this branch from the main wiring harness is too short to reach the stock voltage regulator spot so what is that little box?! I bought a '76 volt meter/fuel gauge and will do the conversion. A voltmeter is pretty straight forward to hook up, that charge light though I don't know... The write up: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Discusses an all around alternator swap. Well, if I already have the desired alternator (my opinion) then the wiring and mix match between 1 & 5 and 2 & 3 should either not be needed or possibly already done. If you look at the schematic sheet they have, it says the charge light is hooked up from the L terminal, easy enough to find, to the ign relay and then it goes onto say that you want it to a switched 12v when engine cranking. This brings me to 2 questions, why hook up a charge light to run only when you start the car, and what exactly is this charge light reading? Is it reading that the alternator is spinning because that should be rather obvious as long as you didn't throw a belt... If you need a switched 12v then damn, I can find that easy. Tomorrow I will check one last spot in the engine bay. Next to the alternator is a plug which was rigged up to connect to its mate however its mate has no wires or anything. This connection may be what I just stated, 2&3 and 1&5 leaving 4&6 left empty. EDIT: Ah... "1. An "L" connection which goes to a "switched" 12V supply. By this I mean a 12V source that is active only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. I use the mnemonic "L" for "lamp", the alternator warning lamp (if used) is in series with this connection. This terminal also supplies the "excitation" current to the alternator field winding at engine turn on, allowing the alternator to begin producing voltage as the engine is ramping up to idle speed. Once the alternator rotor is turning fast enough, it generates it's own supply for the field winding and the current in the "L" connection stops flowing. The warning lamp (if used) goes out." So does this conclude that I can just tap into my L terminal, run it to the light, and then run the other wire and tap into this... I don't know what relay they would speak of unless it was a later model thing because the starter motor has like nothing to it if you look here:

I have a 72 also... Need to hookup my heater core and see if I'm lucky enough to not replace it. Right now all I use for air control is switch between defrost and room. I think this is the very top lever (I have 3 levers) if I remember correctly. The bottom two I have no idea what they do. I'm interested to see what you find out.

Anything with the word manga in it scares me away.

Thats a good idea. Last year mine tore on the way to the movies in the middle of an intersection. Started spitting clutch fluid until I had no pedal. Turn the car off, when light goes green floor it and start the car, enjoy the horrible 1st gear ride.

When it comes time just get a new slave. They're $20, I don't think you will find the boot to an already specific part. Yah know?

Ok so here's the story, I'm having big headaches over some wiring. The previous owner had done a l28et swap to the car so a lot of stuff was ****ed around with. I wanted to hook up my ammeter so I can tell if I'm draining my battery or not however the obvious huge wht/red and wht wires are not back there. I whipped out the schematics and my voltage regulator isn't anywhere to be found (unless its one of these things that I don't know what they are). I suspect my alternator is from a 1983 280zxt since he got the tranny and the motor together for his swap. Its been 2 years since I have bought the car, I built an NA stroker to avoid the wiring mess and now I'm just cleaning up some unknowns. Now here come the questions... Schematics for a 240z show that the neg terminal on the ammeter is from the alternator AFTER the fuse box. The alternator is the huge wht/red wire yes? So wht/red should go in, and then another should come out and up to the gauge. However, there is only the one wht/red wire going into the box. NOTE: this diagram is not for a '72 Z I guess because its showing ammeter and water temp. together and fuel/oil together however ammeter hook up should still be the same. Ok so when I bought the car there was no fuel gauge, I asked why and he said it melted when he was wiring this thing up. Well I don't know if that was from his turbo harness or if it was because this stock harness. I do know that I still see crap that is in the cabin and engine bay which don't match up color wise on any of the things in the schematics... Here we can see the silver thing is my turn signal relay, but what are the two green wires to that thing, and what is that other box with the heavy gauge wires to it. Wht/red shouldn't be going to any sort of relay so what the hell?! The wht/red wire reads 14v at idle. There is also a thick white wire with a connector on it right above those relays, this wire provided 12v to the fuse box when connected. Then there is the engine bay. The only thing I don't know is this little box which was on the sparkplug side of the bay and was tucked into some spot. I mounted it on some empty holes in the firewall. This I would think is my voltage regulator but the colors still don't match. There is also a picture of my alternator if you can see what model it is. Its in good shape so I doubt its 35 years old. If thats the case then a missing voltage reg. is ok because you do this to convert to 280zx alternators right due to an internal reg. right? I didn't take a picture of it but also on my water temp. sensor wire, there are 2 wires that just dangle there and not go to anything. I ignore it but I'm curious what they are for. Since the harness is a '72 harness, I don't know what else is around that area other than a points dizzy but I didn't think it needed 2 wires. So this brings me to my final thoughts. Should I do an ammeter or a volt meter. I know you can convert to a 280z volt meter and the fuel plugs are the same but what is involved with the volt meter part. I want something to tell me whether my battery is dying or not. I know the volt meter has a charging light so does this not blink if I'm draining my battery? My stereo is like a 200 watt system with no amp and I'm keeping electrical stuff to a minimum so I'm sure my alternator can keep up. There is a write up on using a 280z gauge: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=974782 However they are talking about some 6 pin circular connector and its on a 260z so I have no idea what its doing... Apparently a volt meter is easier to hook up and if I don't have these huge wht/red and wht wires under the dash like I should maybe I just do a voltmeter. What I want is to see if turning on the lights or the stereo will draw more than what the alternator can produce. I would think an ammeter is what I want for that but will a volt meter do the same? Thanks for all the help guys. These last couple of things figured out will solve just about all the wiring! EDIT: I have confirmed that I have a ZX alternator. Now the voltage reg...

Maybe you can use an accelerator rod boot? Black Dragon Automotive: PN: 59-160 $5 1-888-789-DRGN to place order

Toggle switches now? I have some 280zxt ones I think but the plugs are different.

I bought one too and it doesn't do a good job. Like you said, just the windows really and if there is any ice. Mine barely blows warm air.

I don't get it...

They came from 4chan known as "rage threads". However I advise everyone to not visit 4chan because its rather disturbing... like... REALLY disturbing.

Here we go... Lets see if I'm the only one. I'm sure we can all relate to one of these in some way... And if you just lvoed those horrible catch lines from CSI: Miami...

http://www.courtesyparts.com/head-gasket-1mm-required-p-227527.html

I've been over there for SAT's and an Academic Decathlon meet. Did like 130mph down I-35 that morning before coming onto N Beach. I'm on the other side of the train tracks where 377 and 1709 are.

Sounds real good. :]

I'm like 2 miles from 1709 off of Bancroft Road.

Cowtown Z club had a meeting Thursday. I do automotive/race prep work for $15/hr however I haven't built up a reputation like some other people. Just throwing that out there...

I think we can all wait a couple days more, after all, we waited almost a year now. :] Rushing makes mistakes and crappy work, don't rush!

You just say what I think you said? Goodluck!

Compression should be around 9:1 give or take .2 I can't remember if its a 1mm or 2mm Nismo metal headgasket with the 89mm KA24 dished pistons. Wish I did flat tops but couldn't find any and I couldn't justify $600+ on a forged set of flat tops. The dude who I bought the head from said Stage IV cam and had the cam card with it. I'm still kind of skeptical because as you can hear, the idle isn't lumpy at all however it IS idling at 1200-1500RPM. I have the idle needles out all the way so you can't close the throttle anymore than it already is... I want a good 800 RPM idle so when I get the EDIS-6 installed I will back the timing off at idle, I think this dizzy was at like 15º and then 35º total or something. Something is messed up though because you can hear during the first pull when I hit 6000 RPM in 1st gear it starts to miss and the power just went down the drain. Ignition or the 40mm carbs have small chokes and its having trouble breathing... EDIT: Olie what sort of exhaust do you have and whats your idle. You have a very nice idle note yet you said your cam is smaller than mine. I figured my exhaust note isn't lumpy because firstly I have a 3" pipe and it probably mixes all those lumps together to form one steady purr, secondly because my idly is above 1000RPM. :[ I want a sexy idle! http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=16799&ppuser=9320

Stage IV Schnider cam so that would be .490"/290º. I'd like to go up to Rebello's grind because from stage IV to stage V jumps up to like a .560"/300º. Rebello makes something between there, .525" or something. Power doesn't hit until 3k. The first run when I was explaining the exhaust was when the motor was heating up. This motor seems to be very particular about its running temperature. Big difference between cold and hot when it comes to that pushed into your seat feeling. Carbs aren't tuned either. You can hear on start up that it sounds like one cylinder is puffing/coughing a little. My big problem right now is if you floor it below 3000RPM there is a huge blip in the throttle. It practically dies and THEN it goes so you have to either be above 3000RPM and floor it or gradually bring in the throttle. Oh and I like how quickly the gears go through with a T5 tranny and a 3.54 rear end! Can't wait for a 4.11! EDIT: Uploaded the videos with image to my photobucket. http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=CIMG1146.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=CIMG1147-1.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=CIMG1145.flv

I would die probably. The whole car rattles, it would fall apart. Note where I talked about sirens in the first post... Keller isn't a little pasture town anymore. The police will snab you for that and make sure you pay a fine with a hefty tow fee too.

They had a typo in their listing for like a 90 (or maybe it was 91) by ".2mm" which I was like yay! cause that works out to be 10.5:1 cr. Then I was like... .2mm is as thin as paper or smaller, so I assume it was a 2mm. I ordered it and they sent me an email saying it was back ordered for a week. Since I'm in the DFW area and they're in Richardson, I received it 2 weeks after putting an order in online. I got the first of the backordered batch so I guess they sold out really quickly. It was $150 though so MSA will do you good to. The box for the headgasket was a Nismo box too so it wasn't an HKS. Don't know what to say to that. NOW I said it was Nismo. >_>