josh817

We rushed out and reorganized the garage to get moms car in. I feel bad for the neighbor because he buys and sells cars and had like 5 Miata's sitting out there so I ran over and we put dirt bags on the cars. Things got a bit frisky with the weather, Mom was praying that she could get a new roof out of it...

Eh I think hes going with a 3" intake, this should be good. I also do believe a 40mm carb with an airhorn flows like a 45mm, 45mm with horns like a 50mm. Then it all comes down to the venturis, the manifold ports, and the ports in the head, how crazy you get with them. Edit: From the TWM website 1.25" difference from the front to the rear of the box. I don't know much of anything about flow but to me that doesn't seem to significant, that is, compared to those RB intakes that come down to a really small area on the last cylinder. Also note this "JDM" air box that was used on 50mm Mikunis: No angle, quite similar to what he's doing actually. Link to ebay listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-STAINLESS-STEEL-TRIPLE-MIKUNI-WEBER-COLD-AIR-BOX_W0QQitemZ220384176134QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRace_Car_Parts?hash=item220384176134&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

I'm using that abrasive disk on the die grinder, yes. You can see what I'm up to in the Youtube video. Hopefully the link is still working.

I know it ran a resistor. Cranking it sent 12v through, on the "on/run" position it sent the voltage through the resistor. I am using a 280ZXT coil from my old turbo setup, when you switch over to electronic dizzy's you toss the resistor and short the "start" and the "on/run" wires together so you get 12v for crank AND for running, makes a hotter spark. Look at the schematics in the link, you'll see what I'm talking about. The HEI module takes the place of the IC ignition box (E12-80 thing) and you hook it up about the same. HEI module has 4 prongs to hook up to rather than the 2 on the IC module.

You can use the same coil from your old setup, any12v coil for that matter. You have to make sure you wired up your E12-80 module properly too. If you can't get it resolved I'm fixing to sell my setup (coil, HEI module, dizzy) all wired up ready to go if you need it, cheap. Check out: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Yes, I think BMW Lemans Blue is pretty anyways. :]

I should just return all my paint and do what you had posted: Keeping the little dents and stuff in there without bondo gives the car personality. Everyone I've talked to has either said "thank god you're painting" it or "I'm going to miss the old fingerprinted paint with signatures from people at school". Now I'm tempted to get my money back and do what that guy did! $70 for a gallon of clear coat and leave it at that! This is horrible that I'm actually considering this. Edit: Oh my god I have these thoughts stuck in my head! That money is making me want it and I wouldn't mind having a ratty looking car! AH!

Oh I already found some. I have a type III airdam kit on the car and I took off the side skirts. The passenger side has the typical "dog leg" rust I believe its called. Rusted a hole right through the bottom into the tire well. I will just fill it and dynaglass it. I'm not looking for perfect, just looking for a good 4-8 years out of it. I'm off to college and I will probably redo everything once I'm out, hopefully with a good job, no wife, no kids, decent income, one hobby. :] Marry when you're 28 or something, gives you a good time frame to pump out the goodies. So, as long as it doesn't flake off in obvious spot, doesn't matter to me. I went with the cheapest paint, would've done Rustoleum but wanted a car paint so I did Nason. BMW Lemans Blue, with sand paper, spray guns, all the paints, chemicals, I'm $400-$450 in it. My moral goes up and down throughout this project and getting info about the Super 7 track day and then April 18th is the Z club track day makes me sad. Dad is usually supportive but on this he's like "well now you see why people pay to have it done" "You spent a lot of money and you're still doing it yourself" I'm like Dad chill out man, if I had Macco do body work they would kill me with bills so it there goes your "$300 paint job". For what I paid I bought 2 quarts epoxy primer, 2 quarts sealer, 2 quarts base coat, gallon clear coat, and then all the reducers and hardeners blah blah blah. This car is an Arizona car so rust is only one spot and there are only tiny dents that need glazing rather than filling. The Honda Civic outside is my moms and its an automatic transmission which is on its last leg and its FWD. Ew. First night out: This was the "good" panel. The stripper got a lot of the paint off. Note, this is the panel I applied stripper to. I had a friend come over and he help brush it on. He's never worked with the stuff before so I'm guessing he didn't apply it right compared to other panels or the paint is really tough. Probably both... Looking good on that side! Not so much that side... After the stripper, still paint... If I hit the brown primer stuff with another coat I would be down to bare metal however I saved have a can of stripper for the hood because its so big and I'm so poor I didn't have any money to buy more stripper for $10. Should I just POR-15 the wiper valence area so you don't see white from under the slits of the cover or should I strip it down too? Goodies: Ok so yes I look stupid but the lamp really helps especially when you're under a car working. Youtube video of whats going on. Don't mind the slurred speech/any sentences that don't make sense/the music which I'll probably be flagged for because Youtube likes doing that to people who listen to the radio. Yah know? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuIKOZsR3hQ Later dudes, I have homework. PS: I don't think I'm going to bust my balls trying to make next weeks Super 7 day. They will rape me and I still have my distributor setup on the car, last thing I need is a misfire at high RPM's and mess something up. I have an EDIS-6 setup awaiting installation so... just get the paint and that installed before hammering down on a track...

I was told the old paint will peel up and ruin the new. I am using aircraft stripper. Brush it on with a paint brush, blisters up the paint but I'm telling you, this **** is thick. Its done its job properly, stripping to bare metal, on one panel, the others were taking 4-5 coats! Lets just say this, when my buddy keyed the old crappy paint, a good 1/8" deep, there was still paint. >_< I have a decent sized compressor, went to my dads shop yesterday and worked all day doing the hood. Finishing it was a real moral boost since the hood is a large portion of the surface area. Dad has one of the big stand up compressors so it keeps up with the die grinder very well and eats through paint quickly. At home, I go twice as slow because the compressor runs down to 70-80psi before the motor keeps up the cfm with the grinder, making it spin a little bit slower. Really though, I'm just about finished getting the car down to bare metal. Like I said, hatch, roof, underside of hood, and valence which I may just spray over since the paint isn't flaking.

The overwhelming task of sanding my baby down to bare metal is getting to me. I have spent 2 weeks and I still have the roof, hatch, underside of hood, and the area under the louvered valence for the windshield wipers. I have used paint stripper, it works but strips the top layer, out of like 5 layers of paint. I have used a DA sander with 40 grit paper and that takes forever. I am now using a die grinder with this spongy head on it which works slightly faster than the DA sander. I don't mind taking a while to properly paint my car, its just the amount of time to finish one panel is too much that it makes my moral stoop way down. I entered into this project and now all these local events are coming up and I'm car-less. Next week is a Super 7 show/track day at MSR and they invited me. Yes, I'll get my ass kicked because those guys are running the Ford Z-Tech motors. 300hp in a 1000lb car, rape. But its a track day! ARGGGG! My boogers consist of paint despite a mask, my hair consists of paint despite a hat, my arms consist of paint despite a jacket, my hands, my throat, my ass, you get the idea. I'm getting to the parts where I can't get my tool in. The wiper valence for instance has lots of nooks and crannies. I know certain parts of the car will be spray painted black IE the parts I don't care about. Maybe I just spray paint in there black, OVER the old paint, no one will see under there anyways. Although, I have to say, it is quite lovely to go out in the garage at 8PM and work until 5AM. Gets me away from the world and I can gather my thoughts. Any outside noises are drowned out by the die grinder and the air compressor which isn't as loud as other ones I've used. This pleases me. I'll have a Youtube video sometime soon. My speech is all slurred from being tired, its amusing.

Every 100,000 the dealership tells you to replace the belt and water pump because yes, timing runs off the same belt.

Did I just notice that too? He almost had a man-gina! Oh god I hate the 80's and I didn't even live in that era. Journey is on my hate list too.

I bet this will go on for days... knowing us.

Getting me all excited. @_@

Get 2 sets of coupe fuzzies and cut to fit or are you really anal about this?

I'll take a picture of the axles and stuff when I go back to my dads shop on Saturday. I don't think they've been sent to the machine shop yet.

My dad created the axles that Summers Brothers now sells. In the early/mid 90's he was doing endurance races with a TR6 and then sprint races with a Spitfire. Broke a set, replaced them, broke those the next day but this time the wheel passed him up and the entire frame of the car twisted and like broke the door hinges off and stuff. He WAS selling his axles to people in England and stuff because they run the fuel injected 150cc motors and no one was making a reliable axle. After the initial rush of customers I think things slowed down and he wasn't coming out well having the axles made so he sold or gave or whatever the patents to Summers Brothers and now they sell the damn things for $1500-$2000. I don't think they ever came out with a LSD diff so the racers have theirs welded up which strains them a retarded amount and they'll blow too if abused too much. Leaf spring setup, some came with the swivel spring which I'm not sure what it does... I just install whats on the list of things the customer wants me to do... The racers in our club will run the built up axles, drum brakes in the rear, swivel spring, welded rear end. The front is all GT6 suspension for the larger disk brakes. I think a rotary engine in one of these things would be neat. I've seen one online once before... PS: Doesn't the same thing happen to the Z cars if the axle snaps? Entire hub assembly comes off and hopefully the brake line will hold it on?

Silver is just fine. :]

Common problem... and thats with a race prepped 1147cc motor... Only like... 100-130hp. However I'm sure those dudes switched to the proper axles. Its a well known problem.

Hot glue gun + felt I think it is from a hobby shop?

Just PM if/when you have some for sale. Thanks and nice setup!

Did you fab that airbox yourself? I'm looking for one for my 40mm's.

Oh... Here in Keller we just have mail trucks.. >_> Not Scions or cars that have been converted. Thats just here though, I understand now.

I'm asking... why? Why convert over like that?

Call Kent cams and ask for it to be faxed or a photo shot to you? Unless someone else has that exact cam you can't get it spot on since each cam is unique really, yah know?