josh817

You really want the original pictures? Ok. Be prepared for one of the intranetz lawl pictures.. Oh yahhhhhhhh sexyyyy. And yes, the reason why I want one of those government contract company jobs is because I know they will stick around unless **** hits the fan and homeland security/defense funds get cut or something.

Big-Phil is just a bossy hound. Once I finish my Z I'm going to show up at one of the DFW Z car club meetings and show him up. Haha. Then he'll beat me with 26lbs of boost.

Yah I don't want anything electrical because I don't trust a career in that area... Ever since my Dad got owned from the company moving to India and then they kept some people here in Texas until they slowly died off, got bought out, then moved to Mexico, leaving Dad, a 20+ year employee, out to dry. I kind of want Lockheed Martin or Boeing and before I make the statement I'll just kind of say I don't really mind where I live. As long as its not East Coast. Although I do love the East Coast, my Z will not.

Well I was getting annoyed of the American Z's that just drag raced. I wanted road racing footage and to hear the sounds of these motors go by, not another V8 going in a straight line (not that I have a problem with it). We have 1 Z in our vintage auto racing club but you can't hear it over the other cars, especially the Porsche's since they're so damn loud.

Well since I have been watching Z car videos all the time I noticed a disturbing thought... I have seen them all. This however can be changed since all the Japanese Youtube users have their videos in a font which my computer doesn't support (Japanese!) so you can't do a search on these videos, the only way to get to them is by looking through the "Related Videos" section and hope you find one. Of course the Japanese people have the super cool Z cars so we're missing out on a lot! Here you go! Oh I mist also add, what on Earth is that metal on metal screeching in some of the videos?! I'll star the ones I hear it in and you be the judge. * ***** * And to finish things off, a very sexy looking Z. Love the red. Sorry for the billions of turbo guys who were left out, I guess the Japanese like old school better? http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6465617191604514213&ei=80V8SaXJLJbUqAOm8ajHBQ&q=240z&hl=en Wrong. Does it sound sick?! Yah it does! There are plenty more videos out there, go find them.

Yup! You hook both HEI and that black box module up the same way. Now it just comes down to price and preference. I got my HEI module from OReileys, $45 lifetime warranty. I think the most expensive one is the Accell brand or something like that for $60.

I'm sorry to say but the distributors you want with the little black ignitor box will be that price. They typically go for $50-100. Why? Because people with NA cars want them unless they are running a points dizzy, an ECU, or the setup I have. The black box tells the coil when to fire so if you get a cheaper dizzy like mine, it won't know when to fire, thats why you get the HEI module. I would just go ahead and invest in the proper dizzy.

What do you mean?

<3 Heart. haha

Well the whole point of doing those two AP classes is to get rid of Physics 1 and Calc 1 in college thus the reason for double pace of other classes so you get senior credit and freshman college credit. I may do some summer courses at the local college to do calc 2. I know my buddy is done through Calculus 3 and with all AP classes he is still bored so he is considering more credit courses while still in school. Then again he is scary.

Yah see a feel like a big baby boo because I'm only a senior in highschool doing Calc AB/BC and Physics C AP, regular english, and then microeconomics AP (what a joke)/Gov. AP. Physics and calculus are the two classes that go double pace though so its like constant homework which is cool with me but this stuff keeps me busy for hours so its a real buzz kill. Scares me a bit too knowing I want to be an engineer, particularly aeronautical so I better get myself into shape on this stuff. I'm also expected to get my Masters in whatever field and if my sister gets her PhD then that means I'm going to have to get mine to. Can't let that woman beat me, especially in sociology! Errr!

Why yes it is! just searched "datsun parts" on google images. No time nor reason to go outside. Get loaded down with physics and calculus homework each night, then I have to get some HybridZ lovin'. Otherwise I would be in bed by midnight! I use to play paintball but thats rather expensive. My hobby IS my Z now. Can't afford anything else really but thats fine. I've been wanting to buy a cheap stripped down 240z for the road racing club. Perhaps I will do that after college.

Although the redhead make me upset she provides me with luxuries such as dinner made when I step into their house and snuggle time where her bosoms become pillows and I get to nap, and also drool. More Z time to come! Right now I'm soldering up my Megajolt system, then it will be time for EDIS install, get rid of the 6-1 and put in the 6-3-2, then 4 wheel disk brakes, and finally body work! Yayyyy for Christmas money. Speaking of I have to send my thank you cards out. :0! Also, I can't work on the Z without any knowledge! HybridZ provides! I'll even do a testimonial statement for the site "HybridZ has so much information AND a search feature, I just about formed a cyst on my butt trying to read it all! Thanks HybridZ!" My cyst doesn't really bother me. There have only been 2 times where it had become sore and started draining. I noticed after some aching pain and then like a drop of blood on the back of my boxers and I'm going dude... my ass is bleeding and I haven't even been to prison. Right now you can't tell what it is unless you run your hand over it which I don't intend anyones hands to be in my crack. When I got home today I spread my cheeks and put a mirror to it with hopes Mom wouldn't come home and be violently blinded. It really looks like just 2 pin holes at the top of my crack. If you search on youtube you will see guys recovery videos and my god it looks horrible. They have a hole like 3" deep to tend to as it slowly fills in.

I have. My constant HybridZ visits keep me up until 4AM on a school night. Sitting in this wooden chair all day, not only have I developed a Pilonidal Cyst but my butt cheeks have left an imprint on the wood. However my cyst is not that bad so I'm not going to waste my time or Moms money to have it removed. Especially when it takes months to heal and you have to pack the hole with gause multiple times a day which hurts, a lot. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pilonidal_cyst Thank you HybridZ. I love you enough to let my body decay and become a waste of carbon based matter. Soon I will be like this dude:

I'm afraid you have caught the eye of the tiger. I will respond will all my glory. Outside my house is a squirrel the took the power out. They tried knocking it off with a stick but it was stuck to the line so they told us to wait for it to rot off. >_> Yah... Has your head exploded yet?

First off. Reinforce the airdam. Bolts along the top will work for mounting but it will rape the fiberglass if you bump something in the garage or whatever. This is what I did. As far as ducting goes I was thinking about doing like a splash pan thing almost and fabbing some sheet metal, mounting it underneath the inside of the airdam with those brackets and also do the chassis with the brackets. Then something for the sides. The cross member for the radiator mount is a good place to bolt in sheet metal too. I don't think cooling will be a problem though if I'm to be honest...

My personal opinion on the first post in this thread and the cam failure is that it wasn't the oil but the adjustment of valves and the metallurgy but thats just me... I would think that oil without ZDDP would lead to failure after several thousand miles rather than 1500 unless the oil was not only lacking the ZDDP but ALSO very thin/wrong weight. Then again I don't know too much about this so my opinion isn't necesarily as valid as other top dogs here.

I am selling my entire ignition setup if you'd like? Its not the E12-80 dizzy you want however it does have a Borg Warner ignition module (GM HEI module). Just throwing it out there, it would be the dizzy, the module, and the coil, hook right up and go so its pretty straight forward. The HEI module takes the place of that little black box, they tell the coil when to fire.

This is what Royal Purple sent me in an email. They responded stupidly fast so for $8 a quart at least you get good customer service! "In a nutshell, your forum group has to become more knowledgeable and educated on the newer API oils. No longer can anyone go to WalMart or their favorite parts store and except to randomly pickup an oil and expect it to work in a 30-40 year old engine. The oils that your group should avoid so that you do not suffer flat tappet cam damage are the newer API SM Service Classification oils in the light weights (0W20, 5W20, 0W30, 5W30, or 10W30) as these oils are designed for the newer roller cam engines and the oils have a 25-30% reduction in the amount of ZDDP to enhance / prolong the life of the exhaust system catalyst. For the older engines, stay with a multiweight 40 oil, as these do not have the 800 ppm cap like the SM SAE 30's or 20's do. Particularly if you can find a diesel rated CI-4+ / SL version as these are more robust additive packages. I have an 07 Dodge Cummins with 325 hp and 610 lb ft of torque - it uses flat tappets and runs on a 15W40 oil. Do you think this might be a bit better for your 240/ 260 vintage engine than a 5w30 SM oil designed for a Camry? Be careful of using diesel CJ-4 oils as these have gone through a similar reduction for the new 2007 and up diesels with the DPF / Cat EGR exhaust systems. The actual amount of zinc / phos - I'm in the industry - where are you getting these numbers? Who says that you need that must zinc and phos? The reason that I ask is the wear protection is not necessarily a linear relationship. What I mean is that although increasing the amount of antiwear for a particular additive package might result in increased wear protection, it could also reduce the engine cleanliness, ability to stop corrosive wear,e tc. An easier analogy - just because Everclear is 180 proof doesn't mean that it is the best tasting liquor on the planet. I recall dynoing a 358 back in the early 90's on Castrol GTX 20W50. Should have been fine. Lots of zinc phos (about what you're suggesting), had the heavy viscosity grade...well - the cams rounded off on the 5th dyno pull just warming up the engine. It had nothing to do with the oil - it was mechanical. Unfortunately several aftermarket cam companies have used the changing and general ignorance of oil properties to point the finger away from some sub par cams and materials over the last three years. Yes, oil is a possible contributor but not if properly applied. For RP's line of motor oils. The SAE Motor Oil API grades. We've stayed with API SL rated oils which are fine for most stock flat tappet cams and high performance roller motors. If you have a 60-70's vintage high performance engine, then sue the 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, or 15W40 grades of oils. If you're real old school, then the 20W50. All have sufficient antiwear to protect your engines. The RP MaxCycle Motorcycle oils are 'four cycle engine oils' built to the older API SG levels - hint - they will work in any four cycle engine. The RP XPR series of oils - these are race oils that are fully formulated for the street as well. The ultimate if you want higher levels of antiwear and higher performance in horsepower wear, high temperature performance. Here's how RP's Motor Oils stack up against other mineral or synthetic motor oils as far as oil film strength to stop metal to metal and high temperature oxidation resistance. RP’s Unique Performance Advantages Advanced Technology Creates Advanced Products Royal Purple’s advanced additive technologies, such as Synerlec, enable its products to outperform leading synthetic and conventional lubricants. These unique chemistries strengthen the base oil for improved performance. They also create an ionic bond that adheres to metal parts for continuous protection. High Film Strength Improves Performance The film strength of a lubricant is its inherent ability to withstand the effects of load, speed and temperature without breaking down or rupturing, thus enabling the lubricant to maintain an unbroken film between lubricated surfaces under operating conditions. Royal Purple’s high film strength improves combustion to free up more power, optimize fuel economy and reduce emissions. High film strength also dramatically reduces wear. According to the editors of Hot Rod Magazine, "We’ve torn down some of our dyno engines that have been seriously abused, but with Royal P(urple) in the pan, the bearings have looked new." Royal Purple actually improves the condition of metal surfaces by remaining long after pressure would have been squeezed out of ordinary lubricants. Royal Purple responds to increased pressure with increased viscosity. Take a look at the following photos: A new bearing surface appears smooth until magnified 1500X. The same bearing surface roughened after using a leading synthetic oil. The same bearing surface after using Royal Purple. Lubricants often have a limited service life due to oxidation which reduces oil’s ability to lubricate. Oil’s ability to resist oxidation is measured by the ASTM’s rigorous Thin Film Oxidation Uptake Test (TFOUT). The test is so severe that it lasts only 1300 minutes. Royal Purple not only surpasses leading mineral- and synthetic-based oils in the test, it also outlasts the duration of the test. Royal Purple’s superior oxidation stability enable oil changes to be extended up to 12,000 miles or more depending on the equipment. Extending oil change intervals save you time and money. It also reduces the impact on the environment by reducing the amount of oil that has to be produced and disposed of." Of course the information is all promoting Royal Purple but I mean its good reading I do suppose.

I have an intake and some 240 pistons. I don't know if you will want the pistons because one of them has a chip between the rings. Here are some pics: Asking $20 for pistons and $50 for the intake.

For the sake of my motor I may just add some STP to the oil in it now and wait another 1000 miles or so. I only have 1500-2000 miles on this motor and I changed oil after the first 500 miles. I really don't want to dish out the $8 a quart for Royal Purple... >_< EDIT: Scratch that I'm just better off getting some ZDDPlus. I think we all are, guys. This is my cam as of tonight. I can see some streaks across it, this is only because the cam was not lubes while it was stored so it formed a some little rust dots (looked almsot like the pictures from the very first post of this thread, like water marks). They rub off the first crank of the motor. Other than that, the rub area on the cam is smooth and the parts that don't touch the rocker are a little bit rough. You can't feel it with your finger so I got a knife blade, oiled it, and then slid it over the lobes, this way it would catch the smallest crevace if one was made. Schneider Stage IV (.495" 290º) cam. I'm guessing the E30 casting means it was a regrind. I have some calipers and I want to double check my cam because I bought the head from Datsun-Parts guy off ebay and apparently some people had issues with him... Make sure he didn't sell me a head with a stock cam or something. >_< The timing matched the cam card though so its probably the right one, I'm just anal about these things. Might I add I LOVE the look of a fresh motor. No sludge, so pretty. :]

I thought the common word was use diesel oil because it has what you need and Chevron Delo is diesel oil. If they start taking it out of that won't the diesel guys run into problems too? The way I was thinking was like "Oh good, as long as there are diesel motors I will have good oil" :[

Crap so the Chevron Delo 400 doesn't have the zinc we phosphorous we need in it anymore? They keep pulling out all the good stuff from our oil! Ah! Guess I better do what my dad does and buy cases of oil all at once so you always have some huh?

Yah when I first saw this thread last summer I was crapping my pants all over the place. Now I still am since I too have about 1500-2000 miles on my motor, did an oil change after the first 400 miles and here I am now. When I looked at my cam it appeared to have similar markings but no failure just yet. Now I need to get some of that ZDDP or go with fresh oil and do the Delo 400. I DID use Kendall GT-1 but the one my father advised me to was 10w-50 and that stuff was so thick it was causing problems when it was cold out. Wouldn't let the motor rev passed 4500RPM... Hopefully ZDDP can be found in like Autozone or O'Rileys.

So whats his number? I got off the phone with Dr. Dean and he says he isn't familiar with the swap since he does only Roadster stuff. I told him the situation and he was like wow... thats rather silly of you guys to say $3500 without knowing whats involved and I was like hey dude my dad spoke for me and I'm feeling it now... I'm especially feeling it when he said timing chain kits were in the $1600 area... >_< And you can't skimp around on the chains either! AH! No wonder this guy was so happy with $3500! DOAH! From now on its $15/hour and a shop markup fee on parts bought. This is rediculous.