yellowoctupus
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Posts posted by yellowoctupus
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This was my only concern, but if internet sources are to be trusted then I guess you're ok:
Quote'85 Mustang had roller cam, rest of the line in '86.
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You may also want to get this moved over to the Gen III boards. You won't much attention over here in Ford land.
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Whew, so I just finished updating ALL of my photo links....what a waste of time THAT is.
I used https://postimages.org/ which has a very simple interface, and seems to have been around since 2004. No popups, nobody trying to sell anything. Just storing pictures. Easy Peasy. -
I'm giving this site a try. They've been around for a while now and aren't covered in ads. Granted, I'm not sure what their revenue source is, but if it's been working since 2004 for them, I guess their "Rich Uncle" fund hasn't dried up yet.
https://postimages.org/about -
Why wouldn't two of the stock gasket work in this situation? One on the front side of the plate, one on the back.
I actually gave this one a little thought myself. The reason most companies do not use gaskets anymore is that they are trying to provide additional stiffness and rigidity to the differential housing by having a stiff cover, which would also require a solidly bolted connection. When you have paper, rubber or cork gaskets, there is a layer that is very elastic; this will allow the two metal surfaces (cover and housing) to move relative to each other, even if only a tiny bit. The idea of using RTV is to fill in surface imperfections / leak points between the two metal faces, so that 95% of the surface is metal to metal. I think the best bet, design wise would be to use RTV between both sets of sealing surfaces here, and ensure you use the same grade hardware and torque as original. Too often people substitute 'stronger' bolts but then you risk doing one of two things: 1, you follow the original torque values, so you get the correct clamping pressure, but you don't get the correct stretch on your hardware and they may loosen up over time. 2, you follow the torque for new new hardware and you risk stripping out the case, or distort it creating additional leak issues.
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It's an outrageous model
The only thing I can guess is the company was about to go belly up, so someone got the bright idea to try for a 'fund raiser' / last hurrah before they shut their doors. Otherwise, yeah, it's a ludicrous plan. Social suicide.
Flickr, google drive, imgur, lots of other options out there
How do you use Google Drive for 3rd party hosting? I tried to figure it out but failed. I have unlimited storage space on google drive, so that would be AWESOME if there was a way to link those pictures.
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Thankfully, I only really post to one site at a time, but I have build posts for my Mustang, the Z, my Willys , not to mention lots of past projects and my own website.
HOWEVER, I didn't realize we can edit really old posts here! Some sites only allow editing posts for a limited amount of time before it gets 'locked' (for whatever reason). We'll see if I care/get bored enough to save all of those old pictures over here in an album and update my content on HybridZ.
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Flickr seems to be pretty popular, but I read somewhere you can use Google Drive to link photos somehow, so I'll have to look into that. I have an 'alumni' account from my school, which has free UNLIMITED storage space, so I have all of my pictures backed up there, full res etc. it would be great if I could use that.
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Yeah, I don't use PB as a backup for my picture, just for hosting purposes, so that's a non issue. I guess I'll start using storage space up on our forum....
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Yeah, it's all a matter of time though before they try to get you to pay $399 a year too. I can't imagine anyone doing that unless they're hosting a business website, and even then I'd think there's more economical solutions. I didn't come close to any bandwidth or storage limits, but they shut me down. I'm wondering if next month it will reset, but I really doubt it.
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Ah, here's their sweet pricing structure for anyone interested: http://support.photobucket.com/hc/en-us/articles/200724444-Plus-Subscription-Pricing-Info
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Any advise on how to fix my huge photobucket failure? I just got an email today saying that the lowest levels of Photobucket do not allow 3rd party hosting (ie, linking my stored photos to forums). The only option in their insane pricing schedule that DOES allow 3rd party hosting is $400!!! (YES, $400) a year. So, over the last, idk, 6+ years of my Z build, now the photos are all shot to heck.
1. That said, is it a 'failsafe' option to create an album, then link all my photos there instead of a 3rd party host? I don't want to switch hosts only to be screwed again right away.
2. Is it possible to re-open my posts (via an admin?) to editing for the purpose of re-linking photos to an album, or somewhere else? Is that worth it?
Thanks for your help, I'm severely pi*sed off right now as my hobby website went kaflooey, all of my build posts, etc - all shot. Grr. It must have been in the fine print of an 'updated terms and conditions' or something a while back that changed their 3rd party hosting terms.
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Well then....seems Photobucket (my image hosting site) now wants $399 a year to allow me to use their storage and use them as a host for "3rd party hosting". Neat. So, now every forum I've ever posted on, my website, etc is all wiped clean of pictures. Go F'yerselves Photobucket.
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The bolts are in single shear here. The load is between the diff and the mounting plate. The cover isn't providing any load bearing capacity. None the less I don't see any structural problem with this setup. Should be plenty strong.
Ya beat me to it, Jacky. I wrote up almost a verbatim reply last night and forgot to post it!
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Just a cool product that came on a 620 I got. I'd definitely use them in the future on those crazy heater hoses in the Z. They're about $2-$3 apiece through Rockauto.
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Neat to see another mod-engine buildup. I tend to forget about the project section of the forum for whatever reason. Subscribed for more neat-o action
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I like to run a magnet on my oil pan (stuck on the backside or somewhere it won't get knocked off) just for those little filings that make it through. Granny's right though, There's a good screen on the oil pan pickup that will clog up before it sends pieces of engine back through your pump. I had a 300 I6 with the later model phenolic timing gears; the gears got chewed up and clogged the pickup entirely. (No oil pressure over 1600rpm!) Cleaned it all out, changed the gears and I was all set.
I PERSONALLY wouldn't rebuild it, but if you won't be able to enjoy the car or will always have a fear of it blowing up on you far from home, then knock yourself out, get it rebuilt. Then you get an excuse for performance parts too! (at least a new bumpstick, valve springs etc)
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Lol, that's probably not the definition of a Posi in anyone else's book. You may want to keep your eye open for another diff then. Driving around with street tires on a welded diff is not much fun, besides the fact it puts huge amounts of stress on your universal joints etc.
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Is there an semi-easy way to check?
Jack the car up by the differential so both rear tires are hanging. Then spin one of the tires, if they spin opposite directions, it's an open differential, if they won't spin or spin the same direction, then you have some sort of posi or locker.
Per the automatic trans cooler topic, OEMS generally run your transmission cooler line into a side tank of your radiator which somewhat defeats the point of trying to cool your trans fluid (if your engine coolant / radiator is 200°F+ already.....). It will help keep your temps from going beserk, but you're much better off plumbing in a generic or junkyard cooler, which is like a little radiator that mounts in front of your engine radiator.
Basically, when trans fluid goes over 250°, the viscosity drops dramatically, which changes the fluid's friction (and changes the way it interacts with clutch discs, bands etc inside your trans). It's a downhill spiral; your fluid gets hot, the discs start slipping, all that extra wear puts bits and pieces floating around in your fluid, which then pumps around places you don't want little bits of metal and what not. And then your transmission dies.. Ack.
I installed an aftermarket cooler and a temp gauge on my Cherokee, and was able to pull a large trailer (4500#) through mountain passes in the summer heat (105°F), no problem. Towing, you have to keep the torque converter locked if you want to keep heat down. Whenever the TC unlocks, you get a bit more torque (it feels like it's downshifting) but it's cranking out a TON of heat. The temp gauge needle will go from 180°F to 250°F incredibly fast if you don't manually downshift it. I know you're probably not planning on doing a lot of towing with your Z, but it was a learning experience for me too.
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That car is sharp! Sounds great too.
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One other item to consider, you mentioned the engine is 'solid mounted', well that in itself should be changed if you're street driving it...but the other item I was concerned with is the alternator mount on the frame rail. As the engine rocks around (on rubber mounts) you'll either tear up the belt, the alternator bearings, etc. That tensioner arm should be connected to the engine block/heads etc, so they can all move as one unit.
Oh...and verify that it actually has a 'posi' unit. Very few people have put them in as it's generally expensive or not straightforward to do so in an R200. It's easy for a seller to claim to have a posi when they sell a car as who's going to open it up to check when they buy it?
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If you were worried about it chipping apart worse, you could try to grind/sand/polish the chipped corners down to alleviate some of those stress risers at the chipped edges. At least it might keep some chunks from chipping off later and churning into bearings etc.
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One excruciatingly slow step forward...
New parts are in. I decided against using my Paxton (A1000) fuel pump, and instead found a guy on Craigslist selling a dual GLS392 setup. I'll probably run them both mounted together, but only run one pump at a time. I'd be lucky to hit 500hp, (rough rating for each fuel pump) let alone 1000hp (rating for two!).
AND, I got a GT500 M122 which will be much easier than the Whipple I started with, and the Caddy SC I was using next along the line.
One of these days I'll stop screwing around with these:
And get back to the Z.
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First try, it might be enough to just use the L6 power steering pump from a ZX, or Maxima with the stock Nissan pump. I'm guessing it won't be as high of a pressure, but if the Nissan pump put out (totally hypothetical numbers ahead...) 1500psi instead of 2000psi from the Ford pump, it would still provide great stopping power compared to the vacuum booster.
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280z 302 sbf swap
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
Posted
An R200 will last you a long time. Seems that's not the weak link, it's the IRS universal joints (ask me how I know...) and then the outer stub axles can snap, but that takes some sticky tires, and hard launches. A street driven 302 should be fine with an R200 and CV axles.