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Everything posted by Sim

  1. Hey guys; I've posted here a few times before, but my project thread is on ontariozcar.com (I'll post the link later). As you can see in the picture below, the passenger side exhaust is impeded by the starter. I was planning on having a 3" single exhaust, but I was going to join the two sides after the transmission like normal. With this tight fit, I'm considering routing the passenger side exhaust under the oil pan, to join with the other side early. Do you think this unequal exhaust length will cause issues?
  2. Hey Tyler; I'll let you know how it goes, and submit pictures. I've already unbolted the oil filter mount, and cut it in half, a couple inches away from the block-side ports. This gives about an inch for NPT (tapered pipe) threads. I picked up two 3/8" NPT elbows to thread into the block-side, and two, 2-foot long, 1/2" hydraulic hoses with 3/8" NPT fittings on both ends. It is a restriction, but I think (hope) it'll be ok. If its not, I'll have to think of something else.
  3. Ha ha, well this "skinny guy" was able to manage because he's still got a brain and a BMW as a pusher. The incline I had to get it up would have been too much even for a big dude. I machined a spacer for the flywheel yesterday - it took me 5 hours! Pictures to come...
  4. Sorry guys, I don't update this too often. my official thread is here: http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/showthread.php?320-Yoshida-an-epic-ballad here are some pictures to keep you guys happy: maybe I should just start another project thread in here... Sim
  5. great swap - I've got a VH45 going into my 240z, and I'm running into oil filter and mount clearance issues. what did you do with yours? Sim
  6. Hey, there's not a lot of chatter in this end of Hybridz these days - too bad. this is a SICK swap. I'm doing the same thing, but on a really low budget. I was initially excited about a TT (I have several spare turbos in storage), but it is too much work to get it ready for this summer. so just the NA block as is, and I may TT later. Questions; I had to completely remove the alternator and oil filter with mount to get the block to fit between the rails. How did you mount the alternator? you have a shorter custom bracket? How are you going to manage the oil filter? That is, most oil filter relocation kits are meant to be spun onto the existing oil filter mount - but I need to remove the mount altogether. do you have a custom piece that bolts onto block, and routes the hoses? I'm considering cutting the OEM mount, tapping the aluminum, and screwing the hoses into this bracket. I see it's been mentioned that the entire front cross member has been eliminated - what's the plan for the replacement? Do you have the stock oil pan? thanks, Sim
  7. hey guys - do you know of a oil filter relocation kit that bolts directly to the VH45 block instead of screwing into the oil filter mount like most do? neither the filter, nor the mount fit, so I have to remove the mount entirely, and bolt some hoses to the block. I'm thinking about cutting the existing mount, and threading in some hoses. thoughts? thanks, Sim
  8. mine has been about free... or may make me money I bought a Q45 for $400, and sold it to the junk yard for $300, minus the engine and rear diff. I still have the BBS wheels and headlamps that I plan on selling. the adapter plate I had a friend make for $200, but I sold all my old straight 6 parts for about that much. I've recently bought the aluminum for the flywheel spacer, and all the steel for the engine mounts for $30. If I sell the wheels and headlamps, I'm laughing.
  9. Thanks NewZed; I've seen that thread, and read it over probably 10 times as there's a lot of information and terminology to digest. I just didn't post it above - there are many other diff threads too. That one doesn't mention anything about 280ZX stubaxles or lack of moustache bars - only that 280ZXT had tripod CVs which I did remember. I've seen the MM R200 install too; it's a good reference. and unfortunately R200 moustache bars are a little rare where I am. I may just build my own bar. Sim
  10. I think I read somewhere that if you redrilled the R180 moustache bar, and flipped it, you could use it for an R200 installation. did I just make that up? Sim
  11. thanks guys - so essentially it'll only be the rear brakes worth grabbing. that's disappointing - the 280ZX didn't even have CVs in which to pirate. the diff is gone, and I have my own R200 anyways. I can't believe the ZX stubs won't even work. yeah, when I assemble my rear end, I'm going to make sure everything is the proper length. measure twice, cut once I guess I'm going to revisit finding pathfinder shafts (30-spline) with CVs, and 280Z or late 260Z stubaxles. Sim
  12. Thanks a lot man; although you are the bearer of bad news. Looks like none of the 280zx stuff will work... Maybe the brakes and calipers with the proper bracket machined. Just some info on me; I'm a mechanical engineer, with practical experience. I'd rather machine it, than buy it (I'm also cheap). So yes, I saw the thread where the guy suggests getting four Q45 halfshafts, and pirating just the CVs. But that requires the axles to be bought for a few hundred from Arizona or maybe MM. After that, I suppose, the proper adapters to go between the 6-bolt CV, and the companion flange... Or just go for the MM stub axles and companion flanges. But my point is that there's no real advantage to the 6-bolt Q45 outboard CVs because they won't fit anything I have anyways. I was thinking I could go with either the pathfinder axles which apparently are the correct length, or getting some Z32 TT ones and modifying them depending on how much they need to lose. As for the outboard CVs; it would be nice to find another set of Q45 CVs, but I don't necessarily have to if pathfinder or Z32TT or 280ZXT CVs can be used. Sure, they're all a different bolt pattern, but if I need an adapter between the outboard CV and the companion flange anyways, what does it matter if its a 6-bolt, a 5-bolt, or 3 pairs? 3 pairs (found on 280zxt) may be the most practical, as they'll bolt right into the 280z companion flanges. I think? If I can't find a bolt-in solution for the front diff mount, I'll make my own bracket that will mount the snout upwards like the good designs do. I'm looking for easy, stronger-than-stock solutions - and I'm ready to make it myself if I have to - bit if there's an easier way, I'll take it. If I can't find a 280z moustache bar, I may just build my own. Any more info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sim
  13. I do recognize that this topic has been documented many times before, and believe it or not, I've read most (if not all) articles pertaining to this, on this site and others. But it is clear as mud. Here is my guarantee: if I can find help here, I will make a VERY PRECISE and WELL PHOTOGRAPHED swap so that others in the future aren't as confused as me. I own a 1971 240z, and I want to drop the the R200 that came out of a '94 Q45 (there has been even people speculating that the Q45 had a R230, but from most sources, it is an R200). I've retained the inner CVs with a 6-bolt flange pattern - the halfshaft axles and outer CVs are gone. Someone I know is parting a 1979 280ZX, and the diff has already been picked by someone else. I was thinking I could grab the moustache bar, front diff mount and rear control arm hanger, but some documentation suggested that only up to 1988 280Z (not X) moustache bars would bolt in. Will a 1979 280ZX moustache bar bolt into my 1971 240z and accept the R200 from the Q45? Is the front diff mount and rear control arm hanger worth picking from this 280ZX? As apparently the CVs weren't implemented in the N/A 280ZX (this car has u-joints), I'd like to use other CVs. Someone else has Z32 300ZX (n/a) half-shaft axles - they have a 5-bolt flange on the differential side, and just the one-piece CV/stub axles on the other (is there a proper name for this?). some documentation says that the Q45 CVs accept 30-toothed splines, which the Z32 TT has, but not the N/A version (which has 29). Really Nissan, REALLY? There has been some articles suggesting that pathfinder axles are a good fit (length-wise, tooth-count wise) - keeping in mind, I still need two wheel-side CVs on the 30-tooth splined axles. Then there are the dreaded stub-axles. Can I use the 280ZX stub axles and companion flanges in the 240z? On the companion flange side (CV-side), what bolt pattern will I be expecting? 6-hole (3 pairs)? Seems like I'll need to find either the proper outer CV to mate to it, or machine an adapter (which will affect the overall length). I am aware that several companies offer kits that would make my life easier, but I don't have thousands of dollars to throw at the rear end of the car right now. As a bonus question; is it worth getting the rear brakes off the 280ZX? I see many people have done it, except adapters must be machined to hang the calipers. Are the 280ZX housings the same, and could the whole thing be swapped into the 240z control arms? thanks so much, Sim http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/diffswap.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70534-r-200-spline-counts-and-mystery-hlsd/
  14. Zombie thread! Sorry for bringing this one back from the dead, but I too am installing a VH45, and it's the better way to go. plus it's still Nissan. I picked up mine for negative $150 (I sold the scrapped car, and some parts, and gained money). the 1/4inch steel adapter plate was machined for $200. new clutch kit for ~$200. I have 4 spare turbos laying around - may have some fun with them too. Kaito, keep that dead VH45 block - it'll have sensors and coil packs etc that are expensive to replace if you don't have the spare. Sim
  15. Ah, I didn't know it was marked. I'll check tomorrow. I pulled the entire drive shaft two days ago with the diff, and the diff-end CV joints off the halfshafts this morning. I had read over the thread about building them with shorter halfshafts. question regarding that; I noticed the rebuilt versions have 6-bolt CV joints on the wheel side, as well as the diff side (requires another pair of Q45 half shafts). Why are they built like this, and what are they bolting to on the wheel-end? Are there end axles with 6-holes to receive this? Confused by the new setup. For now I may be running my VH45 with N/A Z32 transmission with the stock rear end. I'm a little pressed for time, and I'm going to lay off pounding my foot to the floor for a while. Why is there so much discussion about mounting these diffs - especially the front end? Top mount, bottom mount, solid, bushings, special contorted plates etc... The diff comes with two bolts, and rubber washers for isolation. Put a square 2" tube running width-wise accross the frame, mounting to either rocker rail (or cage) - it will go through the tunnel wall. Then bolt directly to this. Done. No? Another random question (I should start a build thread) - is there a better windshield trim piece that doesn't require magic to install? Like trying to get a lens back into a pair of glasses, I foresee it being difficult. Any tricks? Anyone use just an epoxy? Sim
  16. Last question: from what I've read around here, there seems to be contrary views on what differential is in this 1994 Q45. some say a short-nose R200, and others say it's a R230. Additionally, I found teeth and sensors on each axle; does this mean it is an open diff, and just has dumb reactive electronics to keep it on the road? I'd like something active like a clutch pack or LSD. I want LSD. I want a good trip. O_o Sim
  17. Alright, I'm back. and I've answered some of my own questions - I'll put the answers here just in case someone lurks here from the future: note #1: no man can master the art of proper cussing until he is given the task to remove the VH45 and wiring harness from a Q45. By far, the worst job I've ever had to do - but perhaps I've been spoiled by Volvos with loads of space... and uh, relays that are organized in ONE area in the car. From the country that brings you Ikea, the Volvo is boxy, and is well organized. note #2: cross members, suspension and brake goodies are fine and dandy; but too heavy and beefy and too much work required to jam them into the 240z. I'll just go with a brake alternative like that which is mentioned in the FAQ section, and some coilovers, and weld in my own engine supports. note #3: the reason Z32 manual transmissions are used, is that their flywheels bolt directly to the Q45 with no machining. This is what I hear; as I haven't gotten my hands on one yet. Should have one by Monday. QUESTIONS FOR THOSE WHO ARE FAMILIAR WITH REMOVING THE WIRING HARNESS FROM A Q45: From the relay/fuse box under the hood (passenger-side), there are two main bundles of wires; one goes back to the firewall via the quarter-panel cavity, and the other goes across the front radiator rail, and supplies sensors to the AC system, and power for the front lights. As I do not need these things, I cut this entire bundle - but I'm not certain that there wasn't anything else downstream that would have been important. I found the bundle continues to near the air box on the driver's side, and there was a brown relay down there. important? thoughts? Just ahead of the passenger front door, is the ECU location (standard for most cars). Just ahead of the DRIVER's front door is the TCU. behind the TCU is a large multi-plug, a hole in the firewall for more wires, and a large bundle of wires that go down into the floor and just inside the rocker panel. I assume this is for the transmission as well, and I'm considering chopping through it. The reason I dismantled the entire dash, was to get the cluster and perhaps the ignition switch (which is putting up a fight). Is there any other integral box module behind the dash? I'm keeping all the units just in case, but thus far the only two units that I know are needed for certain, is the ECU and the fuel pump controller in the trunk. thanks, Sim
  18. Thanks guys, So we're still all for the engine + components, but perhaps not the rear diff + components because of reliability/weight issues. I'll pull them out just in case, as suggested. What do you guys think about the calipers, suspension goodies, cross-members, etc? I want to beef up the car a little (I'll be caging/strut tower bracing it), and perhaps some of these components will aid me. I'm sure I'll realize when I get with the car and take a look at it all, but I don't want to overlook something obvious before I junk it. Now, unfortunately in my neck of the woods, the Z31 manual transmissions (even from turbo cars) are plentiful, while the Z32s are not. Should I even consider a Z31 transmission? thanks, Sim
  19. Hey guys - I'm a long-time member of Turbobricks (Volvo forum), and more recently OntarioZCar (with six_shooter - I see him on here as well). Last winter I failed to drain the water from my 240z engine, and no surprise, I've got a crack in the block below the exhaust manifold. I pulled the engine and transmission out last night, and I've been debating what engine I should replace it with. I've been debating for a while both because I can't decide, and also to get the funds together. So, I've found a Q45 for a good price. As I have limited room, once purchased and towed to my place, I need to strip it and get it to the junk yard ASAP. The question is; what should I pull from it? I figure I'll be pulling the VH45DE, wiring harness, ECU, rad, fuel pump(s), read diff, driveshaft, half shafts, and calipers.... should I consider the hubs, any suspension goodies, or cross-members? This car is going to need some beefing up, and I don't want to be junking a car that has useful items still on it. thanks, Sim
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