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Everything posted by Floorless240z

  1. Hi, yes it's tight, not sloppy. Looks like with shipping to texas it will be $85 shipped please, my paypal is nerdigger@aol.com or my venmo is @andresadoff Thank you
  2. From two '73 240z parts cars: Some things are doubles (gauges mostly). Round 2 has a dark background in photos. Please specify. You can text me at 716-7two5-5366 if preferred. Prices do not include shipping. Coming from Buffalo, NY. Pics in reverse order of text for some reason Everything "ran when parked" fuel/amp gauge +/-60 amp $50 temp/oil gauge $50 Radio - sold panel with defrost and choke indicator light $30 windshield wiper/turn light stalk $40 short pigtail fuse box w/ cover, damaged. $45 door handle x2 $25 rear view mirror nice $70 SOLD speedo w/74k $45 tach $45 fuel door with hinge $35 Round 2 (parts with dark background) Fuel/amp gauge $60 temp/oil gauge $55 Speedo w/74k $50 Tach $50 Clock, has blemish at 6 o'clock $100 quarter glass w bad weatherstripping $45 +ship each hood inspection lid cover $25 +ship each rear view mirror, not as nice $55 interior light $10
  3. Looking to sell series 1 240z carburetor setup, e46 intake manifold and 4 screw SU carbs w linkage, that indicates they came from a series 1 240z 1970-71. Ran when parked but they've been on the shelf for some years. $295 +ship without air cleaner. Includes everything shown (besides air cleaner piece). Have PayPal and Venmo Available for pickup in Buffalo, NY
  4. Since someone asked: original numbers matching motor is an e88 head and p30 block
  5. This car was sold at Niagara Falls Datsun in 1973. Manual transmission. In the 70's the car was painted red, the g nose and flares were added at that time as well. The g nose is said by Datsun to add 13mph to the top speed of the vehicle, though I've never tested that heh. My uncle bought the car in 1982, the previous owner was a friend of my father's. My uncle had a welder cut out any rust in the floors and put in new metal, he said the car wasn't too bad when he got it. Still have the original warranty booklet, owners manual and service manual, and it looks like an extended warranty was purchased for it back then. In the early 2000's my uncle pulled the motor and had a reputable shop rebuild the head and block. He only drove it a few hundred miles a year as it's one of 5 cars for him. Probably only 5k miles on rebuild. I have his receipts from the engine builder: valve job, mill head, disassemble block, re-hone, new rings, deck block, etc. Also have receipts from Motorsport Auto (now The Z Store) for: crank seals, centerforce clutch w clutch kit, cam oiler tube, headgasket, steering rack boots, rear shoes, wheel cylinder, strut bars front & back, "How to Rebuild Your Nissan OHC Engine" book, urethane steering rack bushings, urethane steering coupler, dual Weber carburetor kit, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, etc etc. From Victoria British: piston ring set, timing chain/set, rear trans oil seal, clutch master & slave, reverse switch, front brake hoses, brake cylinder, etc. Receipts from the local dealer for assorted hardware. Other miscellaneous receipts. I bought the car 3 years ago, though I'd had it for a bit longer than that. I'm 33 and this is my 4th 240z in the past 17 years. I replaced the emergency brake cable, upper and lower radiator hose, heater hoses, any other coolant and fuel lines that looked ready. I eliminated the vapor expansion tank, (car now has no smell when driving with the windows up) vented the filler neck to the top of the tank, new grommets where needed, thermostat, rear brake hoses, hard lines from hoses to wheel cylinders, wheel bearings & seals in back, stub axle nuts, spindle pin kit, just changed the oil 8/10/18 with the blue oem filter, full synthetic 10w30 and Lucas Oil TB Zinc-Plus zinc additive, poly rear control arm bushing set, Ground Control coilovers 200lb Eibach springs and Tokico Illuminas in back, probably some other stuff I'm forgetting. The paint is older, single stage, up close you can see spider webbing in spots, but it looks pretty good for what it is. The paint is peeling a bit behind the license plate, but that's hidden by the plate. Fiberglass hood with holes from hood pins, fit isn't great. 2.5" exhaust, new Vibrant stainless steel muffler last year. No sway bars, I have a stock front one I can include but it needs to be re-mounted. I also have a new hatch seal I will include. Car has original numbers matching motor, only vin plate that doesn't match is the dash as my uncle replaced it in the past with an uncracked one. I do have a pair of round top SU carburetors and manifold that were on the car prior to the Webers (preferable to the Hitachi flat top carbs that came in 1973). The SU's be included in sale if desired. High-res photos can be seen here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MB4uz0krSWH7IwoCoOew3twWpWb4npjs Clean New York State title in my name NEW PRICE $10,500 obo (716) 7two5-5366 Call or text
  6. This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but they can be used in 240z’s with carbs, an electric fuel pump, and ignition control (I have a Crane kit and a GM unit people often use available). $675 6-1 header available separately $195. Round top SU carb complete setup available extra with motor. Located in Buffalo, NY, I’d drive across the border in exchange for a bottle of vodka from the duty free heh Text or call 716-7two5-5366
  7. looks like round ports after all It's been a while since I've seen an L24 head without manifolds, is my E88 L24 head round exhaust ports as well?
  8. Howdy guys, I have a 73 240z with its original L24 in it (107k miles). It has an E88 head. I also have a spare complete L28, N42 block with N47 head. I need an exhaust manifold for my car with the L24. The L28 has a new header on it. Curious if the header from the L28 will fit on the L24, and if so which exhaust manifold gasket I should buy? Thanks in advance
  9. If you wouldn't mind taking a photo if it were convenient that would be much appreciated. Thank you!
  10. Is there a spacer at that bottom right mounting point, or does it line up flush with the bracket?
  11. Anyone else familiar with any variance in vapor expansion tanks?
  12. Also is there anywhere reasonably priced for these fuel lines and grommets? Most of the lines I can get universal but the grommets I'll need to buy
  13. Looking to order some coilovers for my 73 240z. I spoke with Jay at Ground Control, told him this would be a fair weather car with a couple track days per year (Watkins Glen and Toronto Motorsport Park are nearby). I have flares and plan to run 245's in back, perhaps more if they'll fit. At first he said he would recommend softer spring rates and Koni Sports and would e-mail me a spec sheet. I didn't receive anything, called a few times throughout the week and received this after calling again 4 days later. It looks like he's suggesting 340f/380r. Do those spring rates seem high? I don't have a cage, though I would like to add a roll bar at some point. Also aren't those spring rates much higher than the Tokicos can handle? After reading it seems they can only tolerate spring rates of 250 or so, no?
  14. Howdy. I recently bought my 5th Z, (consecutive not concurrent sadly) a 73 240. It had a fuel leak from the vapor expansion tank to the fuel tank, and it looks like all the lines are ready for replacement. However, the tank doesn't seem to fit. It was just hanging there with 2 random screws, and the bottom right mounting point is ~2" away from the bracket on the 1/4 panel. Is there supposed to be a spacer there? The expansion tank looks like metal, I believe the early model was plastic, does that rule out the possibility of it being the wrong tank? Also, where is that top left hose supposed to route to, it's just blocked off on my car? Thanks in advance for any info.
  15. I have a 2 post lift with offset arms, haven't found a good spot for the rear arms. Any suggestions? I saw the seatbelt cup mentioned but didn't see where exactly would be optimal
  16. My dad has this 72 240z for about 30 years, and he got it from a friend so we know the odometer hasn't rolled over. It's in primer now, ran when parked, surface rust all over but there doesn't appear to be rot. Uncracked dash, interior is complete, everything is complete but there's bondo on the rear quarter panel and roof, etc. Many of you may recognize him as he's been to a few Z conventions, more than I anyway. Anyway he restored his '71 35 years ago and it's still in beautiful shape, though it looks like this car may never reach restoration as we're all so busy these days. Granted value is geographical, what should he ask for this Z being that it's located in Buffalo, NY? Here's a link to the full photo album with underbody pics: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Coldaccord/library/1972%20Datsun%20240z%20Lime%20Green Thanks in advance for any input
  17. Finally got started on this project. I'd pulled the a/c and cracked dash when I first got the car. Recently I've bought all the coolant hoses (and hard line behind the head) and put them in, freed up the heater valve, did the GM HEI setup since the distributor has an electronic pickup. Next up is fuel: the L28 already has the block off plate where the mechanical fuel pump was on the motor. Now I need to find an electric fuel pump. I saw somewhere that 72+ may already have wires at the tank, and there's also a factory bracket for a pump that can be purchased? Is there a method of searching I'm missing? I'm surprised this site doesn't have more *pinned posts*. When looking for a writeup for a task, it's often difficult to find and buried in searching. Forums I've used in the past will usually have a collection of write-ups for each category. Is any such collection available here? *edit: I almost forgot- turns out the car is a 73. I haven't put it on the lift to see if it has the factory electric fuel pump in back, but if so I believe that pump only gets power at startup and it will need to run when the key is on. Looking for advice on what pump to run since there's no mechanical pump, how to wire it, and what fpr to use. Thanks in advance for any info
  18. Though it does recommend a distributor from a 76-78, my pickup has red and blue wires and in the writeup theirs has red and green wires. Is my distributor still ok to use?
  19. Just the advice I was looking for, thank you. Found a write-up here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html
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