ukcats07

I thought exhaust leak at first as well. I did kind of mess up my passenger side 3-bolt flange when I made my exhaust system. I got lazy and didn't bolt the passenger flange up before tacking the downpipe section in place. This resulted in the flange not sealing correctly once everything was welded up (all one piece). This is why I cut the pipes and made sure they were sealing at the header. I'm grasping at straws . I'm trying to think of anything that would be rotating at idle, in neutral. After thinking about it a little more, the throwout bearing would have stopped making noise once the pedal was pushed, correct? I had to use a GTO starter because of the bellhousing I bought. I noticed that the plastic dust shield doesn't quite cover the opening around the starter. I'll check in that area. I'm worried because it sounds like metal to metal rubbing (which is why I thought throwout bearing at first).

After doing some more research in this thread http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1766042-ls1-engine-noise-after-clutch-swap.html Could I potentially have a shim issue? I didn't shim my slave cylinder, or really measure it at all(bad on me I know). I'll try putting the back on jack stands and see if the clutch disengages in gear.

Stock 2002 5.3l and rebuilt T56. PCM and wiring harness from donor vehicle (standalone). The issue I'm having is the ticking noise you'll hear in the video. It definitely sounds more prominent beneath the vehicle, but I can hear it from the top. I thought maybe it was the T56, but the noise doesn't change/go away with pedal pushed in, left out, in neutral or in gear. OBD2 is not wired up yet, so I don't know if I have any codes. Seems to be running fairly well, but no street time (not registered/scared with the noise). In the video I go in the cab and push the clutch pedal in, out and give the throttle a little blip--sorry for the straight pipes. Any ideas? If not t56, then I'm thinking that I have a dead lifter. The driver's side head had to come off in order to have an exhaust bolt extracted/tapped and I'm worried that maybe I didn't find exact TDC when I torqued the rocker arm back on. I appreciate the help. Doug

I have Google Sketchup drawings for the one I built on this site. Here's the post with the pics in it. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99919-bugs-are-worked-out-and-the-car-lives/ It was pretty easy to build and I couldn't even weld at that time.

Any pics with these mounted? Trying to decide between JTR and these for my build. thanks

Here's the end result of this suggestion. Cheap and relatively easy. I do wonder how the bolted in angle iron will hold up though. Seems sturdy enough, and I had no issues with my Ford 302 setup using this kind of mount design. TIme will tell I guess.

I don't know if this site has been talked about on here, but I stumbled across it and found a lot of great concise info on LS swaps. May or may not help someone... http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20Links%20Page/LS%20links%20page.html#installs

Damn. Wish I was close for that. I ended up getting a complete ls1 intake and camaro oil pan setup for $600 shipped. I know I overpayed, but fuel rails, injectors, TB, etc was adding up and that deal seemed alright for the whole package. Oh well...

I PM'd that guy the same day and they were already sold!