ukcats07

Thanks a bunch. I should have realized that the 73 is in a weird situation being almost a 260 and all. I'll admit I've never actually looked at the 72 or 74 manuals. The whole process of elimination is a pretty easy kill, I just wanted to make sure that the expansion tank was not supposed to have fuel running through it. I'll connect to the smaller line and hopefully all will be good. Thanks again.

Thank you, my nose especially was telling me something wasn't right. Don't take this the wrong way, but can you please tell me which page (and which FSM) shows the fuel line pics for a 73'? I've checked the FSM, FSM supplement, fuel system modification guide and Haynes (not to mention tons of google searches)--none of which describe in any detail the complete fuel system for a 73'.

So does your fuel return line send gas into the expansion tank? I can hear gas flowing into mine and it has only started this after I connected that line. I thought that expansion tank was only for fuel vapor?

Are you still finding these parts at these prices? I've been looking for about two weeks straight and have had no luck.

I need help with where to connect my fuel return line. My Z had the motor out 8 years ago and I did not have a chance to mark any of the lines before I put my 5.0 in. The feed was easy, but I'm afraid I've hooked the return line to the wrong hard line. As it sits right now, my evap tank is being filled any time the pump is on. I'm assuming this means my return line is connected to the fuel vent line? The only reason I find this odd is that line is the second biggest line (aside from the feed line) in the car. The other line is very small (< 1/4") so I thought it could not be the return line. Here's a pic with how it is setup now. Red is my feed line, green is what I thought was the vent line (with vacuum cap on), and yellow is where I have my return line plumbed.

Sorry for the confusion, but I gather you did not use that homemade crossmember with your LS? Reason I ask, is that my 5.0 crossmember setup is very similar in construction and I'm all about re-using parts. Obviously I'll have to test it out myself, but if somebody else has used a crossmember style mount can you post pics? BTW, made the jump and purchased a complete 5.3L out of an '02 Suburban. The 5.0L and WC T5 should be up for sale soon (~100m on the setup).

That mount setup looks pretty slick. Looks easy enough, thanks!

For my 5.0 swap I shaved the motor mounts off the cross-member. I'm now researching an LS swap and I think I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to have to replace my cross-member or have the supports welded back in. Does this check?

Thanks! I'm 2 for 2 with being stopped at the gas station and having someone tell me there life story about how they once really wanted a Z, etc. It's fun to pop the hood and be like, "oh yeah, it's got a V8 btw".

It only took 7 years! Only problem is, about a mile down the road from the inspection station (local chevy dealer btw) my heater hose blows off (heater core is deleted) and spews coolant all over the place Luckily I have a mechanical water temp gauge in the manifold and an electrical one at the thermostat housing so I instantly recognized what was going on and shut it off quickly with no damage. In the panic ensued scan of the engine bay I actually missed that the hose was clear off the nipple at the manifold. It wasn't until my second scan when I calmed down a little bit that I noticed it. Turns out the clamp was completely loose (filled the block through this hose) and I obviously missed it after I changed out the water pump. Refilled the system and tightened the clamp and had the wife follow me back to the house with no issues. All in all, I had a huge smile on my face while getting the car inspected and an even bigger one while driving it! Can't wait to work the little bugs out and start enjoying the Z.

Thanks for the quick response! Depends on the size of the tire, how close you are to wichita falls and the price lol. My tires haven't seen the street for over 8 years . I finally registered the car today and now I need some safe tires to hold me over until I can fork over the dough for some bigger rims and tires.

As the title suggests, I cannot determine what model Enkeis I currently own. I've gone 8-10 pages deep in google images, uploaded a pic of my rims to see if it can come up with something, site searched, etc. No dice. I can see E-2 JMM on the back and some (what I presume) size indications. Any help is appreciated, as I just want to know what I have. cheers

Ha, I figured so! Had to ask anyway.

I realize I'm reviving a two year old thread, but.........do you still have those struts? If so, I'd be interested in them.

Will do. Life has somewhat gotten in the way for the past few months. I had a one month and then two month long training course that pulled me away from the car and then a move to Texas. Since being here though I've been able to strip the interior and POR-15 the floor pan, put new sound deadener down and home depot carpet. Turned out better than I thought it would. I plan on daily driving this car within the next month...can't wait! I've owned the car for the past 8 years and I've only driven it two or three times.

Sorry for thread-jacking but where are you located in Idaho? I'm currently stationed at Mt Home AFB and would love to see your car if your close.

Here's a link to my post from a few years ago. I took pics and posted google sketchup drawings of my Brian Laine inspired mounts. The sketchup drawings make the mounts look intimidating to replicate, but honestly if you took the drawing to a reputable steel company that welds, they should be able to easily make the mounts for less than $100. I literally walked in with a cardboard mock-up and rough dimensions and walked out about an hour later with the finished product. I talk about changing motor height in that post, realize you can change the motor height by shimming the engine block-to-motor mount point with grade 8 washers (I actually have full clearance with the patriot headers by doing this). I spent way too much time trying to figure out the best way to put the 5.0 in my Z. Don't let the mount hold you up like it did for me, just take the drawings to multiple shops and don't spend more than $100-150. Mine were $50 for the steel and the welds, not including the short amount of time it took me to sit down with one of the guys and make sure he knew exactly where I wanted the cuts and welds.

Here are a few updates since the last time I posted. -Added another fuel filter after the pressure gauge and before the carb inlet. Looks a lot cleaner and the clear filter gives me peace of mind. -Had both headers milled flat and ceramic coated. A local guy here in Mountain Home did them for me for $100...a steal really. -I wasn't satisfied with the non-adjustable rail style rocker arms I have so I purchased the comp cams 4610 kit. This kit is basically a thick washer and locknut that allows the non-adjustable rocker arms to be fully adjustable. I cut up an old set of valve covers and adjusted the valves while the engine was running. Man did this make a difference! Vacuum steadied out considerably and is now fairly stable around 16in (I'm at 3000ft elevation so the vacuum makes sense for my location). -Cut out the towncar-esque muffler and put in a summit street-strip muffler. The audio in the video below doesn't do this muffler justice. The exhaust note is EXACTLY what I wanted and sounds great in person. -thedarkie you jinxed me with the shifter! I had the 2nd and 4th stop come loose and lock me out of the bottom gears. Luckily you warned me of this and I didn't really freak out thinking my new T5 was trash. -Made the motor purdy. Put some new valve covers and an 11" K&N filter setup on the car. -Even with Brian Laine's TachMatch setup, I still needed a 470ohm resistor inline from the Tach output on the HEI distributor to the tachmatch input. I used a potentiometer to determine the lowest resistor value needed to keep the tach from bouncing around. I found that anything between 2500 and 470ohm gave the desired results. Anything above 2500 caused the tach needle to be way less than the actual RPM. Oh and here's some pics and a video for your viewing pleasure!