Xnke
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Posts posted by Xnke
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Spray is too dry. Thin the paint down and lower air pressure, slow down the sweep.
Primer goes on with a light gloss, base coat goes on flat, single-stage goes on with as much gloss as you can get without runs.
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Looking at the shape of the graph, you're not revving high enough and I would bet you're runnning a very conservitive timing map. The undulations around peak torque show a either a spark issue or a lean-rich-lean-rich issue...you're close, but it's all in the tuning.
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It is a nice manifold; and it's for an L28. Many of those are for L20A's and have a dime sized primary throttle.
Clean it up, scrub it down, and replace the busted TPS, then find a NAPS wiring harness and computer and BAM!
Or remove the other bits and just use the manifold and the throttle body, and convert it to the ECCS or JECS control computer. Or a standalone, or, or, or.
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Set MAP sample angle to 55* and window to 10*. O2 sensor checked against two others, all read the same. This engine and this car idled and drove perfectly fine with MS1Extra, and idled poorly with MS2Extra with a single failing fuel injector. After replacing the set of injectors and rebuilding the exploded intake manifold, setting valve lash and checking ignition timing, i cannot achive the proper idle speed.
It's still 20F and now snowing, so there has been no progress today.
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CWC makes replacement cam cores. They don't hold up as good as original Nissan cores. Keep your rocker arms matched up, swap 'em over IF you have a solid lifter engine! hydraulic lifter heads must use a hydraulic cam grind or they will be very unhappy.
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spark and compression tests come back fine, no problems there. ignition is edis, wires and coil pack are fine, edis module is good, plugs are ok.
I can idle the car at about 950rpm if I really fatten it up, but we're talking off-the-scale rich.
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I machined my own spacers. Took about an hour, but it is highly dependant on which hubs are on your car.
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Injector small pulsewidth table?? WTH is that? This isn't MS3, just MS2Extra. I have no idea what you're talking about there, but if it's in the code I better find out!
Alternator output is good, it's an overdriven CS140 amd can supply +22A at idle, and only goes up from there. O2 is calibrated and smack on, timing has been verified with a light and is trimmed in exactly. The timing IS locked; I have tried timing values from 8 to 32* advanced with no change...anything under 2.0ms and the engine gets unstable. It decided to snow tonight, so I didn't go out and play with the car tonight.
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They appear to be molded from a blended ZG flare, if not the same as a ZG with the bolt holes filled in!
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The D2 cam is not a factory camshaft...either it's a custom cam profile or it's a parts store rebuilt head. That's a CWC cam, which may or may not hold up well over time.
The Japan-marked cam is a durable, very hard to damage part that will last pretty much until the end of time. It's an original Nissan part.
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Kameari has stroker cranks available, as does PMC racing engines in the Southlands.
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I've tried everything from 8* to 32*, so i'm not sure it's timing related...hence my asking here. As soon as it stops this torrential flood outside I'm going to try playing with the dead time to see how far off it is. Battery correction Is pretty close; I spent a year chasing it down, unless it changes with injectors or something.
Req_fuel is 6.3; so (6.3*0.51)-0.850=2.363, so I don't understand why I'm getting injector pulsewidths of 2.0 and less at that VE...
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I've got this posted up over at MSextra.com as well...JSMCortina keeps pushing this off as ignition timing being stupid high. He hasn't said much after I started posting timing maps from here showing that it's not unusual for L28's to be running 18-24* of ignition timing at idle.
Anyway, I am running high impedance "520cc" injectors, at a reduced fuel pressure (they are 520cc at 3.5bar pressure...) which makes them 480cc/min. The opening time supplied with the injectors is 0.85ms at 14V. The engine will idle at 1500RPM and 35kPa at 12.5:1AFR's, injector PW 2.0ms, and ignition timing of 26*. This is the "best" idle I can get...close the throttle plate any further and the idle first becomes unstable, then oscillates wildly, and eventually stalls out on a downswing. It doesn't appear to follow manifold pressure, AFR, or ignition timing, as I can vary all of those things and it will still die out or become very unstable below 1500RPM. I got it to idle at 945RPM (my desired idle speed!) ONE time and if you gave it any throttle it was fine...but when releasing the throttle the engine would immediately die.
The engine appears to immediately become unstable and stall out with any injector pulsewidth shorter than 2.0ms...which corresponds to about a 1500RPM idle. I think I have an injector range problem, but since most people on MSextra that have answered are so hung up on ignition timing, I can't get an answer about how to work around this problem.
I am currently running alternating, two squirts, and am reading that simultanious, 1 squirt will not result in any change in pulsewidth, according to the manual. However, there are other people on the 'net that appear to have better luck with it that way. It's been raining for four days so far, and shows no sign of stopping, so I will not have any results or any tuning time for at least a week now.
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Having idle issues. The new injectors turned out to be not..they're some custom rebuild of a Nikki INP-series injector. The shop that I bought them from ground the part number off...grrr.
It's looking like they aren't linear under a 2.0ms pulse width; which is a problem because that holds my idle up near 1500RPM. I'll get it fixed, then the rest of tuning should go pretty quick.
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Hah! it'd cost more to use that head than it would be worth. you're looking at 500$ in machine work to make it worthwhile, plus what I would ask for the casting. Not worth the effort to swap a stock head anyway, IMO.
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Yes, I have one, but it won't come cheap as it has no valves or valvetrain. it's pretty much just a head casting and it's not runnable as is.
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IT'S ALIVE!
Had a section of old Volvo turbo hose in place for a temporary solution, but as soon as I straightened out my wiring goof and cranked all six cylinders up, it idled a little strangely and when I drove it around the block it just had NO power. None.
Came back home and found that hose collaped nearly completely flat, no wonder. Quick trip to the leftovers shelf and a 180* u-bend that had been cut up for a different car was trimmed up and welded together, and problem solved. I was short one silicone coupling so I pressed a short section of the Volvo hose into service...it's fully supported and won't collapse now.
But, the temp dropped from 16F to 2F while I was working, and so the slightly weak, not very charged, been sitting for most of the winter battery won't quite start the car again. It's on charge.
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How about a quick read through the Drivetrain forum?
This is not an uncommon swap. And...that quip about the L28 not making 600HP? Yeah....I know of at least four...have seen two in person!
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Yes, they will. But you will need to weld the backing plate up and re-drill the slide pin holes.
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Yes, the old "ugly" HKS type 1 and type 2 and SK Compo-Turbo boxes worked MUCH better than that empty pretty thing. The cartech box is the same as this RB plenum...an empty box. They don't work well.
You need to be able to diffuse the airflow into the plenum, plus you need a slightly higher reference pressure for the float bowls and you also need to be able to control the pressure gradient...so you either need to fuss with modulator rings or a properly designed dual-plenum manifold if you want to run blowthrough carbs.
It's be very heavily discussed here on the forums...and both the CFD analysis AND the practical experiance agreees....the new empty plenum boxes DON'T give as good a result as the old, apparently "ugly" boxes.
Like someone else here says: "But Carbs are Easy!"
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EDIS doesn't care much about the signal...it just counts the zero-crossings.
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Yes, that is exactly what it does now.
It's the same setup used on any of the factory charged cars that are run this way...look into the Ford Thunderbird Supercoupe for a rough approximation.
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If you're looking to pressurize carbs, get a box designed for it. You will need an application specific part. They are not cheap. Just slapping a plenum over some side-drafts and throwing boost at it will result in very poor drivability and very difficult to impossible tuning.
If you aren't pressurizing the carbs, that plenum will likely be too small. The reasons for an airbox like that are to provide air from a cooler source, which is what i would say the HP gains come from...sucking 150F air compared to pulling 70F air. With an ITB application you need the airbox to appear "infinitely large" to the individual intake runners, so the plenum volume needs to be cylinder volume*2 at an absolute minimum and you need to be able to re-fill the volume as fast as possible to minimize disruptions to the other cylinders. The tuned-length runner system needs to see an "infinite volume" to get a well-defined discontinuity at the runner mouth, which is what reflects the induction wave back down the runner.
Please keep in mind the "infinite" parts of the above are assuming we're being theoretical. The "infinite" parts need to be quite large compared to the size of the system, but not truely infinite, in actual practical installations.
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Looks like I might have a failed injector driver. Three header primaries temp-gun at 500F, three at 180F. Somethin's not right there...so the MS came out from under the driver's seat and I'm testing it now. Sounds wicked though, farting a flame out the exhaust and whining from the supercharger...
to remove spindle pin or not to remove spindle pin
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
It'll more than likely pull the threads off the end of the spindle pin. I have a stack of ripped up ones and a few good ones left after using that type of puller.