Xnke
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Posts posted by Xnke
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For the ones who were looking for VG30ET power; and blaming the heads...The heads were the only japan castings they used!
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Or just get out the Honsowetz book and look at the photos. There isn't much in the print, but a LOT is given away in the photos!
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Randall, I don't think you really understand what the bigger wheel will do...you will LOOSE a lower RPM spool, but you will GAIN high-RPM flow. In the end, HP = RPM * Torque / 5252. More RPM, equals More power. More torque, more power. More both, much more power.
There are numerous people running 350whp with that compressor. Shouldn't be an issue.
You can push the boost up, a little at a time, till about 18lbs, then you'll hit the surge line pretty hard with the stock turbine. The "Maximum Boost" method has its downfalls.
Fix your boost controller, then get some good rubber under it if you are concerned with the launch. Leave the line about 2800-3000RPM, and try to get launch control setup so you can leave on boost if your driveline can handle it...it's rough on the 71B transmissions but they will take a little.
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Not nearly enough cam for 13:1 compression. That's a good cam to run in a STOCK engine; for a nice little wakeup and a not-terribly frumpy idle.
Lift is too low for the duration, will rev very freely and make a wide power band but power will be lower than other cams.
If you have the domed venolia pistons, look for something in the 305* duration, 0.510" lift range; but MAKE SURE you have valve springs, retainers, lash pads, rocker arms, and valve stem seals that can handle that much lift.
If you are going to run big compression, you need to run a big cam.
I think all the venolia pistons were setup with the short pin height; do you know if it's been overbored or if it's a stock bore?
Need to know what bore diameter you're working on and we can see how well the head matches up. From the cam spec, it sounds like the shop that built it probably was building a "hot street" engine, without knowing much about the L-series behaviours. Just seems to me that there is a serious mismatch in the compression-to-cam department, and hopefully you have a big enough bore to let the also-unknown headwork shine.
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You can pull your boost in anywhere you want it...as long as you keep the compressor out of surge. What boost pressure are you running?
You need to make sure you stay to the right of the surge line. Crossing it in one little point is usually OK, but try not to be to the left any more than you possibly can.
Bringing your boost in "faster" may make you LESS power than you have now...if you have to drop your boost pressure to keep it out of surge. Delaying "full boost" by 500RPM and allowing you to push 16lbs instead of 8lbs, for example...
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Yes, and the balance tube (the bar running between all the runners) is probably not big enough to serve as a plenum...run all the runners into a plenum as Johnc points out above, and you can get away from the intake pulsation problem.
Looks like a TR6 manifold there, eh?
I have a buddy here in town who built his own manifold like that for the Zenith-Stromberg carbs, and his runs "ok" around town but once opened up it sounds pretty off and his plugs are all over the place for mixture. O2 sensor says he's running a clean 13.5:1 AFR, but the plugs don't lie...
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Pull a spark plug and using a wire or something, check for domed pistons. At TDC, you should not be able to push the wire past the end of the spark plug hole very far if you have domed pistons; if they are dished you will be able to slide it across the top of the piston about 73mm.
Let us know the head casting number. Bet it's an E31 or E88, *possibly* an N42.
Venolia made a couple types of stock-item pistons for the L6, both flat-topped and domed. I don't think they make any dished pistons as a stock item. If you know which pistons are in the engine, we can get a better grip on possible compression ratios.
Do you have the cam specifications? Or who cut the cam? A lot of bigger cams require more idle advance than stock just to crank over and run.
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250RWHP in a Z is fast. If it was me, I'd have the boost controller setup for something stockish like 6-8 lbs, and then your "high-boost" setting.
You just don't need a lot of power in an early Z to make it stupid fast. 250-300RWHP is as much as I'd personally want to drive on the street, and I would want to keep it hooked up all the time. I'm only pushing around 180 (based on airflow readings from the MAF, haven't made a dyno-trip yet) and I'm traction limited in corners or on slightly damp roads. Granted, I have 9 year old 225/45/17's on the car at the moment, and I bet if they were new they might do a little better.
Now, in a track situation, where I am not watching for other drivers, Yeah...450HP would be a BLAST.
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Knock on the hood?
Nah, it doesn't knock on the hood...
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Stock ZX turbo uses a 1-piece encapsulated carbon seal.
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It has been done a few times already. There are actually threads on this site that explain why it isn't done more commonly.
Look around, maybe check out the place that reconditions SU carbs for Z cars....He might have the setup on his own car.
The difference is in firing order.
Datsun 4-cylinder:
Front carb sees 1 miss 2 miss 1 miss 2 miss
Rear carb sees 4 miss 3 miss 4 miss 3 miss
Nice, even, consistant vacuum pulses through each carburator.
Datsun 6-cylinder:
Front carb sees 1 miss miss miss 2 miss 1 miss miss miss 2 miss 1
Mid carb sees miss miss 3 miss miss 4 miss miss 3 miss miss 4 miss
Rear carb sees miss 5 miss 6 miss miss miss 5 miss 6 miss miss miss
The firing order results in very uneven vacuum pulses across the different carburators; making fueling less predictable across all the cylinders. A balance tube normally would balance this out, and would defintitely be REQUIRED to make it work well.
No, performance will not be equivalent to the triple-two barrels. The Weber/Mikuni/Solex/OER/SK two-barrel sidedraft carb setups are independent throttling setups. One cylinder, one throttle plate. Individual per-cylinder tuning can be done, although it's rarely required. The big benefit comes from the cumulative throttle plate areas.
A single 50mm throttle body is enough to feed a 350HP L28ET. A single 44MM SU carb is enough to feed the L24....two were used SOLELY for mixture distribution. You can, and there are other Nissan built intakes, to install a single downdraft carb in the middle. But, let's look at the advantage of the Triple sidedrafts...
A pair of 44mm throttle plates (stock Z carbs) is 304cm^2 of throttle plate area.
A set of 44mm Mikunis has a throttle plate area of 912cm^2...three times the throttle plate area.
A set of 44mm Mikunis will flow a HELL of a lot more are than the stock carbs, at WOT. You would need SIX stock carburators (so one SU per cylinder) to get the same benefit as running the triple sidedraft carbs.
So, the reason it's not done more often is that it's MUCH easier and simpler to run the three triple sidedrafts on a commonly available manifold for DOUBLE the potential throttle area, than it is to try to cram three SU's into place on a fully customized, one-off manifold that will need to be very well designed in order to work properly.
That, and a set of three matching, reconditioned, properly jetted SU's, plus the fuel rail, plus the linkage, plus the manifold, PLUS the air cleaners, PLUS the PCV system, brake booster, distributor, ect....
You are going to come out cheaper buying a set of used triples and rebuilding them.
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Fabricating anything is going to be very costly if you aren't doing the fabrication yourself, especially once you realize that it's not just a simple hollow box.
I spent 8 months working out how I wanted my new intake manifold to be, and then I had to change it. But, if I was running a turbo, it probably would have worked out just fine. Tuning was a major pain in the butt, though, but with the MAF it was silky smooth up till the MAF signal went screwy.
Turns out it was tuner error! I goofed up and had my number of injectors and number of cylinders setup at 4! EDIS was taking care of the spark, so even though the injection timing and SAW signal timing was wayyy off, the EDIS kept the spark distributed correctly...till 3000RPM when it flipped it's wig and I thought I was having noise issues.
BTW...the MS3 MAF algorithm is identical to the old MS2 and MS2Extra...the only difference is now frequency-based MAF sensors (GM, some Mitsubishi, some Toyota) are more easily used. The actual fuel computations are the same, and the setup is the same.
I wouldn't bother with all the extra expense and complexity of MS3 or MS3X on anything I didn't absolutely need full sequential everything on. Most of the "new" MS3 stuff is just MS2Extra code that hasn't been released into the MS2Extra stable codebase; almost all of the non "sequential injection" code has been backported to MS2E.
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Good luck...Run your final compression ratio before you start upping the boost.
14.5:1 is about the max you can run on 93 octane no ethanol...add 10% ethanol to the mix and you can run 14.0:1. Adding the alcohol to the gas has reduced detonation resistance in any engine I've gotten to check back to back; even pulling timing.
Sooo....you stated you were going to increase the quench height, lowering detonation resistance, and increase the compression ratio to 8.7:1. Right, so you're starting with a less detonation resistant, more displacement, version of the flat-top L28e +t converted engines. Hmmm...They start seeing detonation problems around 10lbs of boost.
15PSI of boost would put your final compression ratio at 17.5:1....I figure about 9lbs of boost you'll be wondering why it spits back at you with any more boost, even when you pull timing.
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They aren't....they are still available new, if you have the cash.
You aren't going to save money building one over buying one. It just doesn't work out that way 99.5% of the time.
Have you the ability to tune ITB's and boost? It's not easy, and the stock ECU will NOT do it.
MS-1 WILL NOT do it
MS-1extra will not do it very well...there are a few tricks and hacks but it's pretty sketchy business.
MS-2 won't do it well.
MS-2extra can do it, but it is full-manual tuning. Autotune does not work very well nor intuitively when running ITB's and boost. VE analyzer in Megalogviewer or TS doesn't really understand the way that MS2E handles boosted ITB's, and is mostly more hurtful than helpful at this point.
MS-3 supposedly can do it, but so far I have no experience with it.
I know of a few standalones that aren't terribly good at it, but I'm sure something out there will do it. I know a lot of them CAN do it, but I have very little experiance outside of MS.
Here's a tip from someone who did it and walked away for a mechanical reason instead of a tuning reason, though...USE A MAF SENSOR!. Don't bother with speed-density/alpha-N combo tuning...it's a complex pain in the ass when all you need is a suitably sized MAF sensor from a ford or nissan, and you can be off tuning. It's a dark, uncharted path through a cave full of pitfalls and razor sharp rocks, but others have gone before you and left footsteps. MAF tuning is not terribly difficult if you are patient and have a fully registered copy of MLV and TS. TS alone will not do it! You need to be able to plot data effectively to do the MAF option, but having felt the results...It's definitely worth the extra effort learning to tune it with MS.
Nistune would seem to be a good way to go to using a MAF sensor...all sorts of help out there since the stock ECU's use it.
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It's a complete basket case of an engine; the PO has screwed with it and didn't get it running.
If you buy it, be prepared to go through one step at a time, in order, and fix everything you find IN ORDER.
Step one...check #1, page #1, of the FSM's diagnosis steps.
Step 2...
Step 3, problem found. FIX PROBLEM.
Go back to step 1.
Every time you find and fix a problem, GO BACK TO STEP ONE.
Don't just continue on, thinking that you found a problem on step 17, so all your past steps are still good. They may not be!
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Suit yourself...I've used the aluma-seal trick and it works, but the same person who set me up with that fix also recommended the head-bolt retorquing...
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Don't count on it being "much stronger"...Stock for stock, they are both rated at 300ft-lbs input. Internally, they are pretty similar, as far as component strength goes.
Now, an aftermarket mustang T5...that should be stronger!
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Seen too many 71B's torn up from less-than-smooth shifting behind higher power L engines, mine included. (learned to drive on this 345,000 mile S12 trans...there were some PIO moments that were really rough!)
Mostly the up-and-down shifting with less than great revmatches starts to loosen up the mainshaft nut, and the clack-clack on shifts gets pretty loud. It doesn't take long from that point...
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The issue isn't the initial re-torque of the gasket...it needs to be done regularly. I didn't believe it until it started solving my problems.
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The cause of the headgasket seepage is not retorquing your headbolts. I went through this, having never retorqued the headbolts on any Datsun I'd worked on except the Z24; but the FSM DOES call for it to be redone every 15K miles. TonyD explained it as taking up the embedment of the gasket, and the aluminum cylinder head. Once I started re-torquing the bolts, the coolant leak went away and has never been back.
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There are lots of GM 4.3L V6's out there with exhausts routed exactly like what you describe. It would be a total pain in the ass to change out that starter if you ran the pipes under it, not to mention the heat on the starter would likely be detrimental to starter life.
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I've been looking into the battery thing heavily for a few days, and found out a few things about the Braille battery lineup.
For one, all of their AGM's are made by Deka/East Penn battery...peeled the lables on a few Brailles down at the local battery shop and got Deka part numbers molded into the plastic.
What makes a Braille worth the 2x-3x cost for the same battery from another supplier? Are they double QC'd or something?
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There are multiple mass air meters that will handle that kind of power, and multiple ways to make it work.
My advice? Get Nistune setup on a 300ZXT ECU and tune what you have, then move to a Z32 or a Q45 MAF IF you need it. 300HP in a Z or ZX is a LOT of fun, and a lot of power for a street car. 400HP and you'll have a lot more problems than just the transmission...which will NOT handle 400HP and driven semi-hard, and it'll be beaten down pretty quick at 300HP unless you're a very smooth driver.
Get ready for a Z32 transmission swap if you're not slick as snot shifting, or intend to do any kind of drag racing or rough treatment of the transmission.
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Might be what I ment. I've seen them on a bunch of the mercedes turbodiesels in the parts yard, just never thought to pull them.
Advice for Boost Target for dyno tuning
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Some cases it can make a big difference, but in stock ornear stock, I wouldn't expect miracles