Xnke
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Posts posted by Xnke
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Run Shell gasolines. It works, I don't know the hows or whys, but it DOES work. I've found both soft and hard deposits removed just by three to five tanks of Shell fuels, both on my Z and on the fleet trucks at work.
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Skirkland is the only person I've heard of who had rockers ground wrong at Delta; so i doubt it's a common thing.
I've had a LOT of rockers reground there and haven't had any issues at all.
This clacking noise...pull the valve cover and oil the entire world. Watch your valve train. Wear goggles...
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I use delta camshaft for rocker regrinding. the "480/280" grind I got from them was only 0.455" lift, works with stock springs and required 170 thou thick lash pads. this thickness pad is NLA though Nissan, Isky has them and you can have thicker pads ground down.
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Yes, you do need to replace the rocker arms with new or reground ones. You wouldn't re-use flat-tappet lifters in a Ford or a Chevy, don't do it on your Nissan either. They need to have the proper radius, surface finish, and "blank" wear pattern or you risk very rapid cam destruction, and by virtue of oil circulation, total engine failure.
That sounds scary enough, I think it will get the point across nicely.
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Top two photos show the Nissan ECGI analogue electronic fuel injection system; third photo looks to be a Lucas slider mechanical injection;
Bottom photo appears to be the Lucas mechanical injection system on the S20?
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If the clatter is only there when the engine is warmed up, I might suspect an oil issue; what oil are you running?
Warmed up, the valve stem should dominate the expansion race and your lash should close up some; making the engine quieter. Are your valve stems made of Bismuth alloy? (that'd do it!)
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Needed some motivation this evening, so I sat down and had a chat with Burt Munroe.
Then I went and measured for the air horns, did the layout, and am inside doing the math for generating the airfoil curves.
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I have a Summit Racing Turbo-muffler, split down the side and one end blown nearly off, a reminder to hook up the ignition coil power circuit BEFORE you crank the engine over for 5 minutes, trying to figure out why it won't start, then remembering the ignition kill switch and immediately cranking it over, lighting off that exhaust pipe full of 14.7:1 air-fuel mixture...
Then there is a damper that's been spun...
An oil pump drive shaft that has had the gear spun...
A cylinder head with a repaired crack between 2 and 3, ought to be re-assembled and sold...
Now a bulged intake plenum!
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Heheheh.
I can add this to the wall of "awwww FSCK!" along with the asploded muffler.
More money spent, brand new injectors (not rebuilds!) are en route. I will be bringing the car home tomarrow.
All the math has been done again, the air horns will be machined in pairs (I don't even want to think about this right now) and I will be attempting a clone of the SK turbo Mikuni PHH airbox. I have the Ross mailbox plenum material; and will be bringing air in the bottom of the plenum, around a diffuser plate, and then into the air horns.
AND i get to keep my adjustable runner length!
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Sure it is 360hp and streetable. Look to the Aussies, or the Japanese...they do this level of work without a second thought. It simply is a matter of proper gearing and good tuning.
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Use the rocker arms that match the cam, the las pads don't matter as long as they are the correct thickness
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Rocker arms are functionally identical, but p79 and p90 valves are different from all other years and cylinder head castings. Measure carefully if you plan to mix and match.
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Did your car blow the manifold up in the parking lot at the office?
Already got the 2" o-rings to install the overpressure diverter plate on the shelf...
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What'd I miss, Tony? The price is slightly variable based on the yen/dollar, but it's always been "there" for anyone who wanted to pony up the cash...
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The P90A hydraulic head needs the hydraulic cam to operate properly. Stock non-hydraulic cams may produce undesired operation. Use at your own risk. No warranty implied, expressed, or given. No returns on opened items. Do not take internally.
Stock cam profiles are not worth the work to swap over.
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90$ later, a 21" chunk of mailbox extrusion shows up at my door.
60hrs a week at work plus waiting four to five hours a day to get home means I leave for work at 7:30AM, and get home from work at 9 or 10 at night. Not much time left for working on the car that STILL isn't even at the shop; it's in the parking lot under 24 hour surveillance at work.
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Ah, yes, the lovely things that come with Power, Revs, and the L6.
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This comes up every year.
Yes, they have been continuously available since they were first released, and NO, you can't buy just the head.
You send them a core engine, and OS Giken sends you back a complete TC24-B1Z engine, WITH A WARRANTY!
that's a 3.1L forged everything bottom end on the TC24-B1 head, with the gear timed cams, a variaty of cam profiles for them to choose from, and the intake and exhaust manifolds with the carbs or fuel injection.
It costs about 100,000$US.
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I have never been able to do the job without at least lifting the head...I always have torn up the headgasket doing it that way.
Just because it's got an aftermarket cam doesn't mean anything about timing it...Time it exactly as it would be done for a stock cam, UNLESS you have a vernier-type cam gear or the Nissan Comp timing gear. Both of those will come with instructions on usage, though.
It's just a lot of bolts to be careful not to loose or get out of order, they're mostly all 8mm diameter, but there's at least three different lengths and they need to go back in the holes they came out of. There are 4 oil pan bolts, two bolts at the top front from the cylinder head, some in the water pump, and then all down the sides of the timing cover...Make sure you time the oil pump/distributor correctly, as well!
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Tensioner probably dropped out. My block slides all the way down to touch the crank sprocket, and is about an inch wide at the bottom. If your tensioner has dropped, you will need to pull the entire front timing cover.
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Yeah, no shrapnel under the hood. I bet the leaking injector probably caused at least part of it... the bigger issue is the oil all over the intake. Leakdown test doesn't immediatly point to bad rings, compression is dead even on all cylinders. I am thinking valve stem seals, I had some problems with this set of valve guides cracking, and will be finding another supplier if I find more guides cracked now. Cracking on insertion, I missed one when I assembled it. I caught it when I suspected the stem seal, it was easy to see when it seeped a fine line of oil.
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Weird. I was hoping they had a source for some parts when I was doing the last one last winter.
AZ, I had a detailed PM typed up and the forum ate it. I'll send it on this evening when I get home.
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Still oiling up the intake manifold; still missing, miss is getting worse. Drove it under boost to work this morning...felt really good, strong, no miss under boost. A little soft in some spots, some VEAL took care of that and it was smooth sailing this morning. Still was rich at idle, one of my 450CC injectors *must* be leaking.
Pulled the intake boot off the 65mm ford throttle body and was going to drive home N/A to save some tire smoke. Manifold still had some oil in it, even though the PCV valve has been relocated. The intake manifold exploded when I tried to start the car to come home from work. Blew the plenum up like a balloon, and shot a huge plume of oil smoke out the warped up throttle plate.
Didn't damage or even tweak the runner tubes, but the fire extinguisher cylinders used for the main plenum puffed up over an inch and a half. The main plenum assembly is toast.
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Last I spoke to Slover's, they didn't want to do one for me. Now I know who to ask for!
Should I go with a t3/04 turbo?
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
The ceramic wheel RB turbos don't like the higher shaft speeds that occur with higher boost. it's well known and well documented.