locodrftr

Wow your pretty lucky, you must have done some good things in your past.......good karma. Congrats!

Hey just thought id share a few things i do at work, everything you see was tig welded, let me know what u guys think.

take your header or gasket to a machine shop and ask them to duplicate the flange and see how much it is, i plan on doing this to make my header except i'll be doing it in stainless, and taking it to a guy with a water jet..at least thats what i was thinking...

I think what you're trying to do is what u see on the a pillars and such on roll cages where it appears like flat piece of steel with holes in it...but its from using dimple dies.... read here http://tool.off-road.com/tool/Fab+101+-+Compliments+of+DIRTsports/Fab-101---Dimple-Dies---Compliments-of-DIRTsports/ArticleStandard/Article/detail/322511 i hope this link works...

nice find......does it have a five speed or stock 4? either way i think its worth it...go for it....ohhh and do a burnout when u get it from the owner...lol

all these pics are from my L24 i totally forgot you have L28et but it should be the same procedure... Ted..

well, here are some pics of some of the things u will need to do..... first the block of wood u need to wedge in between the chain. it should go something like this when you're at tdc on the #1 piston.make sure u tap it in so its fairly snug other wise the whole timing chain cover has to come out...once this is here unbolt the 19mm bolt from spocket using a impact gun or breaker bar or whatever just make sure u dont pop out your wedge.. Here is what the cam looks like when your at tdc...everyones will vary slightly i think but its good refrence...both lobes should be pointing up.. sprocket should look something like this....kinda blurry but u get the picture.. you can also remove the camshaft bolt first if it gets in the way of installing your wedge...just make sure the sprocket doesn't come with the bolt...as for the head bolts i used a craftsman 10mm allen key and chopped off the j part to make it square then i used a 1/2" 10mm 6 point socket to remove the head bolts....should be 14 of them.. once u get all the head bolts removed keep them in order and pull the head...clean the all the surfaces with some carb cleaner...and a razor blade or whatever...just make sure its clean...then make sure all your surfaces are flat(block and head)..clean the pistons as well...once all is good reverse your order and torque everything down...once you fire it up let it warm up and check for any leaks or loose bolts...enjoy... any other questions feel free to ask or if u need anymore pics let us know..lol good luck ted..

Hmmm sounds like the headgasket....i dont suppose u see any coolant or anything just below the spark plugs? right where block and head meet? mine has a slight sweat through there and im guessing my block needs to be decked....what motor and mods do u have?turbo? and what was going on when things started to act strange? im sure some of the veterans on here will surely help u out....

^^ its a E88 head if thats what u mean...

Yep i live in azusa....im just south of the 210fwy....everyone and there mom goes up to gmr now...too many people now. As for the head bolts ive reused them b4 and had no problems....until now...i just installed the msa 6-1 header and car ran great for about a day...now i noticed there is some water that seems to be seeping out the side of the headgasket on the passenger side.....rrrrr i retorqued the headbolts but that didn't do much...i dont know if its because of the headbolts or the gasket itself or maybe a uneven block....no smoke or water in the oil..i think i might pull the head again and check everything. i need someone with a nice straightedge to check the block though....something always goes wrong... f$#k!!!!!!!!!

Hmmm... Make sure u flush the radiator and the block,replace your thermostat as well,drain the oil and replace your oil filter,pull the spark plugs out then crank the motor,(making sure your new fuel pump isn't dumping fuel when your cranking the motor)just a few time so oil pressure builds up before you actually let it sit and idle....and to possibly blow out any stuff that might be inside chambers..........gap new plugs install them replace the cap and rotor wires maybe....definately b4 u feed your motor with fuel from the tank replace the fuel filter then disconnect the fuel line and let the pump dump some fuel in a clear container to make sure your getting fuel and to check for any crud that might be in the lines. then reconnect the fuel line...also check your tires for air make sure the brakes work and change out tranny and diff fluid...grease any fittings as well...start her up and check timing, and for any leaks and loose bolts or nuts....once all is good do a burnout and post some pics lol i sure i forgot some things but you'll figure it out its just common sense... good luck

glad to help u all out, pulling the head is no big deal, its removing or installing headbolts that worries me lol had two break on me b4 one on removing the head and another installing head. was not cool at all....

Glad to help someone, i know ive gotten many answers by going thru the forums and learning from other peoples mistakes so hopefully people can learn from mine as well....

Turned 23 this past july bought the car in june and its become my daily driver...however i think i like my s13 hatch as a daily instead.....but then theres just something about driving the Z that makes u want to drive it more and more....

now cleaned and a lesson well learned.overall cost $25 headgasket $48 bucks to clean and check radiator, was about 50% clogged got it done at Ricks Radiator 693 E. Arrow hwy Azusa (626) 967-7518 Problem solved...........!!!!!

not to mention they need to be kept in a rod oven, but i like 7018...what i used to get LA city certified

on with the pics...

yeah, well thanks for the help everyone but like everyone else i think i might have fallen victim to a crappy radiator....i did not think it was the radiator seeing as i had it wroughted out less then 4 months ago....im hoping this is it...i guess when i installed the new block and head i never flushed them, i just installed everything as is and connected it to the radiator....im assuming junk got into the radiator and cloged some passages and wont let the water circulate fast enough....so i removed it and i am about to take it to the shop to get checked....i'll post some pics when i get back and keep u all updated....

Yeah my crankshaft pulley bolt backed out on me but that was due to crossthreading it...now i see why people tell u not to use impact guns lol lucky for me it was only the first few threads that got damaged,i ended up buying a longer bolt, lock washer and tap....bolt turned out to be a M16x1.5 most expensive thing i bought was the tap handle had to get the big ass one....but yeah i used blue locktite on the bolt and green locktite on the crank snout were the pulley slides onto.A new bolt is cheap insurance over old crappy bolts thats for sure

Well i got everything back together and im still having the same problem... water will bubble out the radiator when engine rpm are high....well not that high but like 3 or 4k....im stumped

yeah the carbs i got with the engine were and still are pretty bad i dont know about the actual fuel consumption of each carb....soo i dont know i just look at the plugs...

i was running without a thermostat and it wouldn't overheat driving in the street only on the freeway. And i read some posts about water not getting around the cylinders so i bought a new thermostat but that made the car over heat quickly...

hey yeah thanks rich... but now something else caught my eye......the rebuilt motor i purchased seems to have been sleeved or at least i think so what do u all think? heres a comparison of the block i bought to the one that came with the car. i wonder if this my problem with overheating...

headgasket looked good and my thought is the head might be cracked or something,i have another head that i got rebuilt in june that im gonna throw on and see if the problem goes away i'll later take the head to get checked if its warped or cracked....ohh and here is pic of the rebuilt head and now i know its good because it was on my other block... new... now used

ok well i got a 72 240, and the motor i recently purchased that was said to have been rebuilt was overheating so after checking and replacing waterpump hoses and radiator i decided to pull the head off and see what was up. why did i do that because everytime i would rev the motor i could see the water bubble up and out the radiator so well what do u guys think? here are some pictures of the head and also the pistons....the pistons i think are overbored not sure but here are all the pictures of the block and head of the rebuilt motor...any comments and this is a L24 p30 and E88 and the head gasket