MazterDizazter
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Posts posted by MazterDizazter
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As it states in the title. I'm doing an R200 CLSD swap in my 240Z. PM or email at MazterDizazter@yahoo.com. Thanks!
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Thanks guys. I think I'm going to just have my stock injectors cleaned/flowtested for now and then get MSII as soon as possible, then run the 440's...or triple carbs...but that's another story.
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Everyone's favorite animated Z, from Wangan Midnight:
Twin Fairlady Z 432's
Mid Night S130 twin turbo:
Shaw Takahashi's Z:
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I tried searching; I'm not that stupid lol. I would think it'd be a matter of ratios or something. If you can throw a larger fuel pump in and keep the stock ECU then I don't see why injectors wouldn't be possible. I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190359738362&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Looks like a solid kit at a really good price. If I could get it tuned properly I could easily upgrade to standalone and a larger turbo in the future... Hard is a very relative term for me... you'd have to be more specific.
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herrooooooo?
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I think this is probably a stupid question but I'm wondering if it'd be possible to use and get very-close-to-stock fuel pressure from Denso 440cc low-impedance injectors by using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and not touching the stock ECU. I would like to get standalone and a larger turbo eventually, but for now I need new injectors and rather than get new/rebuilt stock units I'd like to just put the $$ toward Supra injectors and billet fuel rail. I have an SX performance adjustable FPR already that I can use... I'd like to get ~max boost on the stock turbo if that is of any difference.
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Getting one from Gregmatic; thanks everyone!
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Sorry, I meant to specify "Z31 LSD".
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Front body work off
Progress
Engine out!
This is all rust and dust that fell out of/off the car. Every night I left the garage I had to shower thoroughly, lol
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Took some pics of this week's mayhem. Wow this car was a rotbox! I definitely plan on thoroughly going through the engine now. Hopefully it won't need a full rebuild, just new gaskets and seals and a lot of cleaning. On to pics:
Had to grease the flatbed truck to shimmy the car off because 3 of the 4 calipers were seized. Removed them and pulled the car in the garage.
Tow hooks ripped clean off!
Shoved my hand right through the license plate section there, lol
Found these in the car. Not gonna be enough to fix this puppy!
At least it had a mad tyte JDM y0 exhaust!
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Looking to swap an '87-89 Turbo LSD into my '73 Z. Either VLSD or CLSD works. PM me if you've got one. Thanks!
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British Racing Green, originally (and will again be) #901 Silver
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I would pull the head and check the cylinder walls. More then likely, replace the head gasket and throw the motor in after some cleaning. It probably doesn't need a rebuild with that many miles.
My thoughts exactly.
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So, to try and bring this back on-topic, Weber 40DCOE's should work just as Dells or Mikunis so long as they've been modified with solid or foam-filled floats, and anything else?
Say I've got a stock L28ET currently and I want to do the switch to a triple-carb single turbo blow-through setup; what do I do about the ECU and the rest of the sensors; run standalone?
About fuel pressure: lets say I'm running a T3/T4 at 15psi. 15psi plus 4-5lbs is still way less than most modern EFI setups (right?), how big of a fuel pump would be needed?
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Haven't posted in a while; I've been hard at work on boring stuff, but the project may be picking up steam thanks to a great find (more on that shortly).
I got the L26 refreshed with new gaskets and oil pump, repainted the block, got the Weber carbs rebuilt, reinstalled it and was installing my Autometer Phantom gauges when I realized the wiring harness was a total hack job. I took the dash and harness completely out of the car, and while I was at it completely removed the interior to clean everything and hopefully get the old car smell out!
Now more on that great find! I was hunting through Craigslist for a beater car and came upon a "1983 Datsun for sale, $500" No other info listed. I emailed them, they told me it was a "280Z" (obviously a ZX), and I set up a time to go look at it. It just happened to be only 12 miles from my house. I went after work when it was dark and started to look at it as the owner was talking to me. At some point in conversation he mentioned "the turbo bla bla bla" and I stepped back to realize that it was indeed an '83 Turbo ZX! I immediately opened the hood and confirmed this, then checked the odo which read 114k. He then said it came off the road because the brakes seized and the rust/rot was becoming a concern, but the engine ran perfectly. SOLD!
Sadly the rot on the floors and frame rails makes the car itself un-salvageable. I'm picking up the car this friday, moving my car outta the garage and the ZX in. I should have it completely parted out the same day and towed out the next day.
Hopefully I can have the engine refreshed, turbo rebuilt, injectors cleaned, and get a new clutch and R230 LSD (found out the custom driveshaft I bought with the Z32 tranny is designed for the R230, works for me). Since I planned on rebuilding the harness it should be easy to swap in the L28ET harness while I'm at it. I'll post pics of the part-out if I get time!
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Dammit, don't you know I just ship you those parts because I think my L28ET won't be ready for a long time, and I find a running 280ZXT the NEXT DAY (only 12 miles from my house, no less) for $500! Oh well, guess I'll have to source another shaved manifold lol. On the bright side, I'll have a 240Z Turbo a lot sooner than I anticipated!
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Hey all!
I'm looking for a non-brittle blower motor fan, and all plastic heater plumbing except for the defroster vents. Also, a non-f**ked with 240Z wiring harness would be excellent. LMK what you have. Thanks!
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I have a shaved ported N42, have the 240sx TB, TPS and adapter if you need it
Have a stock J-pipe and a decent 2.5" downpipe
Have a Pallnet denso-style (think that's 11mm o-ring?) fuel rail with pressure gauge
Have some L28ET gauges, headgasket and a few others
PM me for more info
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The vents to the windshield are fine; I need the ducts that go to the center and side vents of the dash, the duct from the core box to the blower motor box, and if there are any that go from the lower vents to the floor, those too.
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Hey all,
In the quest for heat I took the dash and heater core out of the car. Found that mice and squirrels had made a nice little nest for me inside the core and blower motor. Took everything apart, cleaned everything, got it all working again, minus the fact that the brittle ducts from the blower to the core and the blower to the dash vents all broke and are completely useless. I'm not sure what to do at this point. I looked through Black Dragon's catalog and didn't see anything. Does anyone make reproduction ducts, or should I get creative with some Lowe's home heating ducts?
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I just decided to re-wire the entire car. P.O. hacked the s**t out of it.
thought the 5 inchers wouldn't fit inside the stock bezels?
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Hey all,
I replaced all of the factory gauges with Autometer Phantom series gauges: 5" tach and speedo, and 2 5/8" oil pressure, voltage, and water temp. I've got them mocked up in the dash now; I gutted the three small stock gauges and placed the new gauges in the outer plastic housings and I'm going to modify the stock metal backing plates to use the stock mounting hardware, but the larger ones are basically resting inside the holes as they are too large to use the stock plastic housings.
I need to know from others who've done it how you solidly mount the 5" tach/speedo gauges inside the dash. It's in a '73 Z if that helps. I've been doing it with the dash inside the car; don't know if it'd be easier to take it out to mount them; the wiring is all done but it should disconnect with relative ease.
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$400 is the going rate for Toyota wiring harness conversions, too. I chose not to pay it and had an "experienced friend" do it for me; turned out looking like a rat's nest and half my warning lights were on for no apparent reason. Some things are just worth the cost.
Yeah, $10-11k sounds about right, and very much worth it considering the power and speed you get from that RB. I think I'm going to put this idea on the backburner for a while as I just found out that 3SGTE swaps for my MR2 have become much more affordable recently; it used to be $10k for a gen2 swap (200hp/200lb/ft), now it's around 6-7k for a gen3 swap (241hp/224lb/ft), and that includes the modifications to bring it to around 300whp. Considering my MR2 needs an engine and my Z doesn't necessarily need one right now (just refreshed the ol' L26 and rebuilt the Webers), I think I'll wait a while, sell off the L28ET stuff, and put it in the piggy bank for later, when hopefully, hopefully RB swaps will become more affordable.
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Oh for cryin' out loud! I wirebrushed the crap off the locks and found the key code, in very very tiny font. No wonder I couldn't see it before.
240Z L28ET project
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Thank you!
I tried the whole vise grips thing, but no luck so far. I'm going to try some other tricks, worst case scenario drilling it out and using a heli-coil if need-be.
Got the engine up on the stand and started taking it apart. I also picked up an R200 CLSD out of a Z31 turbo with 100k on it for a good price. I'm piecing together the other necessary parts to install the differential. So far I've spent more money on drivetrain parts than anything else! Never knew just how expensive it would be...