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MazterDizazter

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Posts posted by MazterDizazter

    engine rebuild for dummies

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I have a budget of about $2k, hopefully that'll be enough. I already have the gasket set and new oil pump and I plan to buy the rings, crank and main bearings, timing set, MLS head gasket, ARP head and main studs, and whatever valvetrain parts that need replacement (this is mostly where I need help picking out parts; obviously the valves, springs, and retainers will be on a case-by-case basis but I need to know what other stuff is involved). What machine work needs to be done to the motor typically, aside from decking the block, planing (or milling?) the head, and honing the cylinders?

     

    I also know I at least need a micrometer (and that "How to..." book), but I'm picking up one tomorrow to do headwork on my Toyota 4AGE. I assume I'll need the tool to install piston rings, and possibly a slide hammer?

    engine rebuild for dummies

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Alright guys, I'm going to fully rebuild my L28ET mostly by myself (machine work will be done at local machinist) and I need to know what parts I will need and where the best place to order said parts would be. Also, a list of tools would help, although I think I have everything I need already. If there's a write-up for an L28ET rebuild somewhere, I'd be happy to read it. I need to know what order to do things in, and any tips so I don't eff anything up. Any and all help is appreciated!!! I've never done this before, but I'm totally confident I can do it; I have plenty of friends who have rebuilt motors and can call on them to get me out of any snags in case I do eff up. Thanks!

    240Z L28ET project

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Yes, I will be painting the engine bay, semi-gloss black for now. I desperately want to strip the whole car down, media blast it, and re-paint the whole thing one color, but I just can't afford it right now. It will happen eventually though.

    BTW my coil-on-plug setup arrived in the mail and it's AWESOME! I'll post a pic eventually.

     

    Oh, and if anyone wants to buy my '75 EFI fuel tank, I'm selling it for $200 shipped. I decided to do a fuel cell since it will eventually be road-raced, hopefully....

    240Z L28ET project

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    man, ur project sure is moving swiftly! i was just wondering, what school do you go to? i'm originally from ma and was just curious...

     

    I go to Bridgewater State College; I'll be going on my fifth year, unfortunately lol.

     

    I say shoot the engine man. Just let that "while your at it bug" bite you some more lol. Nice project man.

    You thinkin MS in the near future??

     

    Not sure what you mean by "shooting the engine", but yeah I plan to run MSII with a 4 bar MAP sensor, GM LS1 coil-on-plug setup with EDIS, and wideband 02.

    Fixing Rust

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    So, I'm going to hijack this thread since his question was answered: my friend and I looked at a fairly decent '73 today, asking price $2k said he'd take $1k... had some rot on the frame toward the rear section of the front wheelwells....is that necessarily safe to fix? I just think it would trash the structural integrity....

    L28et Swap Wiring Answer!!!!

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Yeah I definitely appreciate the explanation since I was quite confused with all the current write-ups, but some editing and whatnot would really help. I'd like to know enough about the wiring by the time I actually go to do it that I'm not terrified to do it, lol. And I'm especially confused with how in the hell I'm gonna do it while running MSII, MAP sensor, 240sx TPS, distributorless ignition, and a knock sensor (and probably some other crap I'm forgetting.

    Oh, and if the painless wiring harness will have anything to do with that. Oh how I hate wiring...

    240Z L28ET project

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I removed the old engine this week:

    Picture418.jpg

     

    And started to remove all the oil-based coating crap from the engine bay.

    It still needs a ton of work but it's getting there:

    Picture416.jpg

    Picture415.jpg

     

     

    Here's a pic of the Treadstone intercooler:

    Picture419.jpg

    And got some more minor work done on the block, like scraping off the old gasket material:

     

    Picture414.jpg

    240Z RPM Limit

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Coming from an autocrosser's point of view, I can certainly say that having an electronic rev-limiter is a godsend. I have revved my MR2's engine over redline more times than I'd like to admit due to nigligence and it's not something I want to do. In a situation where you peg second gear once or twice, it's nice to have something keeping you from blowing things up, just in case your mind happens to slip. Watching that tach and maneuvering through slaloms isn't exactly easy, but then again, it wouldn't be racing if it were easy.... :)

     

    Was what I said totally conflicting or is it just me? lol

    rotary engine?

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    I'll save a bit of time. I kinda feel bad for aux always having to answer tons of rotary questions.

     

    First off, realize that they need to be rebuilt semi-often, usually around 60k. Reason being is that the apex seals are under constant friction and hard load and just plain wear down.

     

    Next, the stock twin turbo exhaust manifolds don't clear, by quit a bit. The RX7 and RX8 engine bays are very wide compared to the S30 (actually... most cars have a much wider bay) and as such you NEED to go with an aftermarket exhaust manifold setup. While you're at it you might as well convert to single turbo imo.

     

    You also have to decide if you want to use the factory oil adding function. Rotary motors are fuel lubricated, so they NEED oil in the fuel. That's just the nature of how they work (much like a 2 stroke). So either you need to adapt the stock system, or remove it and add oil to every tank in precise amounts (that's what aux plans on doing).

     

    Personally, I think if there was a NA 3 rotor that costed less than 2k for a complete motor + sensors + ECU that had more than 250hp, then I'd strongly consider it for a swap. But the 3 rotors are turbo motors and extremely expensive. And I'm overal not sure I'd be willing to deal with the headache of a rotary swap.

     

    The reason why most twin turbo rotary engines need to be rebuilt (or to the best of my understanding) is because most stock FD RX-7's have inadequate stock cooling systems. Some simple upgrades to the cooling system (one of these being a big uncramped engine bay such as one in the Z) should work wonders for a rotary engine. The older single-turbo 13BT's are known to last around 120k and I suspect that's because of the increased space and proper cooling.

     

    You can pre-mix the oil in the gasoline, or there should be an oil injector adapter available; my '90 RX-7 Turbo II had an external oil resevoir which I filled with two-cycle oil every couple hundred miles. Try checking http://www.rotaryaviation.com.

     

    The most cost-effective turbo rotary swap I think would be the 13BT - $1500 will get you a series 5 motor/trans complete with ECU and all accessories, which makes 202bhp and 182lb/ft. 13BRE, 20b, and Renesis motors are considerably more expensive. You're best bet is to read aux's thread, and go on RX7club.com and read, read, read all you can.

     

    I really hope this works for you; rotaries kick ass!!!

    240Z L28ET project

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Actually, it's running out quickly. (I guess it's a good thing I'm single right now!) I need my tax returns to come in ASAP. I'm also selling parts from my defunct RX-7 project to buy parts for the Z.

    I just dropped $725 on a full host of Autometer Phantom gauges, OUCH! Got the 200mph speedo, 10k rpm tach, and fuel level, oil pressure, water temp, and voltage gauges. They had better be perfect at that price.

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