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MazterDizazter
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Posts posted by MazterDizazter
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My damn L28ET swap is taking too long. I'm considering just putting the old motor back in my '73Z so I can drive it until the motor is ready. Only problem is that my old motor has triple weber 40's on it, and they desperately need a rebuild. I had a tough time finding any place that would even touch Webers in MA, and the one place I found quoted me a rough ballpark for parts/labor (worst-case scenario of all jets/venturis or whatever - I don't know carbs at all - replaced in all three) of $700. Does that sound fair? Do I have any other options? If there's a place I can ship them to be rebuilt for less I am all ears. Thanks guys!
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What the hell; I wanna build a garage! What's your budget been so far, if you don't mind me asking? I'm going to be moving soon and the new house may not have a garage, which just ain't gonna fly!
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So what do you do for work again? lol. If I could get my Z to half that level I'd be more than happy!
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I built a dolly out of 2x4's with swivel wheels to move the shell around. Around here a complete bake & blast will run $1200 - $1400 depnding on how much they do.
Be aware you won't get back as much car as you take them. I thought my battery area only had surface rust, turned out it needed major surgery.
jt
That's about what I figured. I know my battery tray is toast also, but I don't plan on putting a battery in that location anyhow. Price was about what I thought it would be too.
What about an SCCA-legal cage? I assume they require at least 10-12pts? Is it best to buy one pre-made or have one fabbed? What am I looking at for cost there?
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Hi all,
I'm really unhappy with the fact that my '73 is three different colors (silver originally, exterior painted british racing green, engine bay semi-gloss black), and I want to start with a clean slate, stripping all the old paint off and getting the chassis down to the bare metal. This will also make it easier to weld in the fuel cell cradle I need to create, fill the fuel-filler door, and neatly cut and spot-weld the wheel arches for the mounting of ZG flares. I've seen numerous cars on here shown on a rotisserie and I'm wondering how much it costs to have a complete shell media-blasted, as well as the best way to transport the shell. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
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Perfect.
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Frame is pretty solid. There are a couple small holes near the front but nothing major. I hope to get at least 300whp from the L28ET but we'll see.
looks excellent man, I play on doing this in the near future.hows the frame on her?
and how much do ya plan on getting out of the L28ET?
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Looks like your project is coming along nicely! Wish I could say the same for mine; it's covered in a foot of snow right now. Looks like we're both on par with the L28ET's though...mine needs a lot more work before I can put it in.
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Sounds like you have it, but if you need any help with coilpacks and MS, let me know. Just fired up my Z, Ford's EDIS was a huge help, granted, but it is not too hard.
Definitely, thanks!
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Luckily the spare tire well is getting cut out and a fuel cell going in its place:
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This is what I have to work with.....$12,000 restoration my ass! It's gonna be a long road to restoring all this crap... Not to mention the welds (or rather the metal around them) broke on the left part of the hatch, so that needs to be repaired.
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Not much to report. I read all I ever want to read about sequential fuel injection, and how to make my coil-on-plug setup actually work (shoulda done that before just blindly buying it, but it's OK). I desperately need to find a garage to store and work on the car, because I'm moving soon. I'm also looking up options for standalone; I was hoping to trade someone for a Microtech LT-8, but that fell through, so I'm leaning back towards megasquirt.
I finally took a (crappy) pic of the engine bay, and today I removed the fuel tank and replaced my broken tail light.
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What were you looking to run with it? I'm curious about them too, as someone is offering to trade me one for some parts, and I need a good standalone for my L28ET-swapped S30
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SWEEEEEEEET! That is so awesome. I always wanted to do a 20V Turbo in my MR2, came really close a couple of times. It's really impressive to see one actually done and making power, haha. I've yet to see one in an MR2, so there may yet be a chance of me doing it!
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I am replacing the old 4AGE "bluetop" (112bhp, 97lb/ft) with a 4AGZE supercharged from a JDM Levin. It's a really nice 16v 1.6L that has 8.9:1 compression, forged pistons, 7-ribbed block, oil-squirters for the pistons, and has a MAP sensor and distributor-less ignition. It makes 170bhp and 155lb/ft stock, but I'll be modifying it with a Cometic 1mm MLS HG, ARP studs, header, 2.5" exhaust, NST 180mm crank pulley, HKS 264deg. cams, Fidanza cam gears, Fidanza flywheel w/ ARP bolts, and a SPEC stage II clutch. She's gonna scream!!!
I've spent $1450 on the engine including shipping, plus about $3,000 worth (cams, cam gears I got for free, clutch and flywheel I bought years ago and stole for my new project) in the aforementioned mods. It adds up fast. I just can't wait to get it done so I can have a car again and get back to my real project!!!
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Well, I have nothing to report as far as updates. My MR2 crapped the bed so I had to order a new engine for it... At least now I'll have ~170whp instead of ~98whp
Next thing for the Z is finding storage for winter and paying for shipping on the Z32 tranny, then re-wiring the chassis.
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I'm $10k deep in my 240Z that I've had for a year ($5500 for car, $4500 into built L28ET swap) and I still need to spend another $5k just to get everything in the car and running... I really should've just done a stock RB swap but at least I should be putting down close to 400whp with the L28ET
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I noted you looked like you were having a lot of fun degreasing everything. Well you'd have to be careful with it as it's flamable, but I've used brake parts cleaner to degrease things and it works REALLY well, dries out the greasy dirt, and makes it easy to wash off with a little soap or just wipe away.
Phar
Yeah, I started using brake parts cleaner but I think I'm going for a full rebuild in which case the block will get hot tanked.
There are only a few parts that look to be L-series specific, like the intake, TB adaptor, fuel rail and oil pan, everything else could be used by an RB, SBC, SR, Yugo engine, etc. So I wouldn't look at it as wasted on this engine, just tested for the next.Well, this is true. I think after I've had the current setup running for a while and I plan to upgrade, I'll take more time (wayyy more time) to decide which is better; to further upgrade the L28ET or swap in an RB25/6. After seeing TimZ's 600+whp L30ET, I have become a believer
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Does anyone have a mandrel-bent exhaust? I really want one...
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so much that I'll probably never afford it along with the two turbos, wastegates, and downpipes required for it
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I can't believe you were able to weld that flange!!!
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How come guys making $10.95 an hour are considering buying top-end sequential injection units...
Because I'm tired of messing around with bolt-ons, lol.
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Yes, but faster
Homer : There is the right way, the wrong way and the Max Power way.
Bart : Isn't it the wrong way?
Homer : Yes, but faster.
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I dunno about you guys, but 2hrs at my day job nets me $21.90 before taxes. Not gonna buy me too too much extra stuff. Maybe a nice "how-to" book or a polished somethingorother.
Project 240Z Turbo ITB Install
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I second that, I just saw a pic of a kid's MR2 that caught fire because a braided line touched a battery terminal. No more car!