240jz

If you are running without o2 you should disable it in Megatune and then flash the ecu. As far as tps, are your running speed denisty? None the less I would recommend that getting tps wired would be my first priority.

This may be a slightly stupid question but I have never had to take my motor apart yet and I don't yet know. Is the oil pump driven off the distributor? It would seem to be a small problem if it is.

http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/ $100 plus shipping

Me too. Matt

I would also love a 16*8. I've been bugging them for some time now without any luck. But if enough people bug them...

I like engine rating index, idea I did a similar rating a while ago on excel. I included a number of other variable so it was somewhat subective, but it does give you some trends. Bastaad525, I agree that the area under the curve is much more important than the peek horsepower. In fact that is how we characterize engine modifications on the SAE car. There is a relatively simple way to approximate area under curves where you don't have a linear equation. It is called a Riemann Sum. I am shure some of you are aware of this technique, but for those who are not here goes. Prof's cap: With an undetermined area under a curve such as a horsepower curve we can estimate the area by constructing an number of rectangles. The curve should be broken up into a number n, of diffrent intervals. These rectangles should be constructed with a hight of the horsepower curve halfway between the start and end of each interval. Now all you have to do is to sum all your rectangles and now you have an approximation of the area under the curve. Whew, I think I broke a sweat, too much math for a friday... So for your pleasure I made a spreadsheet to take the work out of it and uploaded it into the download section. TL1000R-(1157*30)/150=231

I don know if anyone here has seen this page or not... http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm#tabtop but it has a huge list of fuel injectors including the bosch style, and lists impedence as well as flow rate, what vehicle it came off and various other things. I figure it could give some more options to those doing standalone. Matt

I was aware that the head must me modified for the n-42 type manifold. I was planning to notch the head for clearace for the injectors, so I wasn't too concerned with the head issue. Is there an issue with this approach? As far as the bolts go I was under the impresson that the manifolds share a common pattern in respect to how they bolt to the head, apparently I am in error. Has anyone here modified their head to accept the late model manifold and can post some dimensions drilling depths. Otherwise it may be time to make my own.

Ok guys I need some help here. I am collecting parts to Megasquirt my 240z. It's and early model with dual su's and an e31 head. Right now it is NA but turbocharging in not out of the question in the future. I am looking at getting a manifold from a later model car and I have a number of questions. If I get a manifold off a n-42 car are the injectors compatiable with MS? (low vs high impedence and mecanical vs electronic fuel injection) Are they a standard shape that can be replaced with easily sourced junk yard vehicles. Do 280z and 280zx turbo manifolds have the same fuel injection boss hole diameters? Would it be better to get a later model manifold to eaise the loation of sutiable injectors. And finally, are the spacing of the injectors the same on diffrent manifolds enabling fuel rail interchangeability. Sorry for asking so many questions but I just want to be shure, and to clear some things up before I start throwing my money away. Matt

Who did you end up doing with?

At UW Formula SAE we ran keizer wheels for a number of years. Three years ago we switched to Kodiaks and since then started making our own centers. Last year I was going through some of the old stuff and I was looking at the old Keizers and I noticed about half of them had cracks starting between the bolt holes and spreading outward. While the wheels were used for racing they really didn't see that many hours. There were outher roundness problems with the wheels out of the box. Ie they weren't all that round and rubbed on the suspension members. Anyway the quality was suspect on thoes when we where purchasing them, I don't know if they changed but I would not recomend them from what I know. The Kodiaks are high quality light wheels. The changed the manufactuing process on the spun shells two years ago and made them substantialy stronger. Since then we have had no problems with them.

Acetone is actually commonly used in forms of racing. Specifically it is blended with methanol or nitromethanol mixtures. It helps methanol cars start. It can be blended to increase combustability of less volitile fuels like nitro and methanol. Fuel Fuel/Air Heat Energy Latent heat of evap Acetone 1:10.5 12500 btu/lb 225 Methanol 1:4.5 9800 472 Nitromethane 1:2 5000 258 Prm unleaded 1:12 19000 135 Figure taken from four stroke Performance Tuning by A. Grahm Bell. As per above the addition of Acetone in place of petrol will tend to lean the mixture and will cool the cumbustion chamber.

I don't know if you guys have seen this site before but it is worth taking a look at. http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/ They seem to specalize in swaping rb25's into old skylines and z's. Pretty cool but look at the prices!!!!!!!!!!! Matt

Well here's the story. My car has been stalling lately. I had thought it was an issue with the signal to the coil so I pulled the conector and the nut fell int the dizzy body. sh$#. So the dizzy came off. While I had it off I replaced the points, reassembled and then reinstalled it. Now I have absolutely no spark. When I pull the points apart there is no arc. Has this happened to anyone else? The points are isolated when they are pulled apart. Here is a picture to confirm that it is assembled and wired correctly. Thanks, Matt http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1625&sort=1&cat=500