dexter72
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Posts posted by dexter72
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Take the rear diff, Axle shafts, and if you want to swap to rear disc brakes. Take all the rear brake components. You will need 80's maxima caliper mounting brackets. Keep both driveshafts so you know which one will fit in the 260 after the swap.
You can use the zx booster, Mount it upside down. Then you can use that zx mastercylinder. Use the 260Z clutch master cylinder, ZXT 5spd, and engine of course. Do the ZX alternator upgrade swap while your at it, and install the diode so you can turn the engine off. You will find all that in the swap write up. You can use the zx radiator, You may need to drill different holes to mount it, Its a tad larger. Using the oil cooler is up to you.
I did a 83 ZX n/a 2.8 swap into my 260z so remember a lot of what I did.
Don't be impatient and read more than you have done so far. I did research for 2 weeks before I did my swap.
Good Luck
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Nice find, I know your happy now.
5 years back I was scouring yards late one evening in Phoenix and found a Clsd, in a 87 300ZXT. In another row of cars that had just been released to have parts removed, there was another 87 ZX on the ground. It had a different colored hood then the body color, Hmmm. The next morning I was at that yard when it oppened up. I got the Clsd out of the ZXT and checked that other zx, which by then had been put on stands in the yard. It was a ZXT too and had a Clsd in it.
Imagine 2 Clsd diffs, A big bag of tools, and me alone trying to get all that up to the counter, to pay for them. lol Then me holding back a huge grin when the cashier said: $65 bucks each SCORE. -
There are pics on here of a stock tank, that had the bottom of it modified. Added a sump to the stock tank, See if you can find those. They may help you. Otherwise find a good welder and see if he would be willing to work with you in modifying the bottom and the inside of your tank.
Remember that, VQ Engines only have one fuel line feeding it, No return line. Stock fuel pressure is 50-55PSI. Pump is submerged in the fuel tank, to keep it cool.
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74 250Z, Sweeeeet.
You really didn't want to drive that Fiat did you. lol -
Have you checked on Youtube?. I think I remember a similar Z on there.
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You might get a bit of help on here, if you let us know the details of your issue and whats in the Engine. Stock or Aftermarket Cam, Injector size, I see the airflow meter on it, Have you messed with that yet?. Spark plugs, and I see a Rising rate FPR.
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You may be able to make up what you need yourself, Possibly by using parts of a ZX harness. I did that when i first swapped a ZX engine and EFI into my, Non EFI 74 260Z.
What Wiring is giving you issues with your install?
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Do some more searching for info and make sure it is not a Viscous LSD Unit also. From what I remember the LSD diffs were in Turbo 300zx only 87-89.
If you find out its not an LSD Unit at all, That Finned Cover sells for $140-$160. If the fins aren't broken, That may make you feel better. And cover the diffs cost.
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Is he recommending you use Spicers?.
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There are other components that will cause the normal .035 draw. ECU, Stereo, clock, Alternator, aftemarket amplifier, dome light, marker lights, tail lights, brake lights, interior light and so on.
If you have a draw you start pulling fuses one at a time to see which circuit it is in. Then you start disconnection each component in the circuit you found the draw in, to find the draw. If the draw doesn't go away after pulling each fuse, its in a hard wired component. Relay, Alternator, Amp, Fog lights, Blower motor and so on. In the newer cars, I have found them in the vanity sunvisors a lot.
I have to deal with more components then mentioned, whith a draw on a newer car. I am a Nissan dealership mechanic.
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Look up 240Hoke. He did a complete VQ Swap with pics. There are other VQ Builds with pics also. He used a 350z engine and trans
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Yes you need to change your settings for the High impedence injectors, then you may have to calculate required fuel again and your VE Table. If the injectors are the same size as your old ones and you just changed from low impedence, to High impedence, You might be ok.
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I never went to the go cart track, But always remember that track being bare bones and the farms all around it.
I loved the drive to 75-80 from route 29. Nice winding road. What 1/4 times do you run or think you are running with your car?.
I have a 74 260 L28 NA-T running 15psi, 3.70 CLSD. Never taken it to the track But pulls hard as hell.
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Besides what has been said above. Was the swap done with the ZXT Harness, Does it have Megasquirt or another type of Stand alone EFI system?. If it has Megasquirt make sure you get the type and code number, make sure you put the program on your own laptop or device, for tuning and tweeking.
) If you can check the entire condition or have a mechanic check out the entire condition, you should do that. I always like to start up an engine cold after sitting over nite, listening for a knock, hard starts, smoke and so on. Then drive it right after you check for all those. Then do it again after it has sat, after driving for an hour.
If the seller won't let you check it out fully, walk away.
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I think the Manufacturer of the joints is the main problem, What jonts were they?. I remember ready posts that people liked the original joints but you can't get them anymore.
On a side note Cannonball, What track did you go to?. I lived in Maryland for 30 years and used to run a Nova at 75-80, Capital, and even went to Buggs Creek one time. lol
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I bought my z not knowing how rusty it was, until I started removing the trash that was piled up in it. Trash was up to the dash and top of the door panels. The trans was in the hatch and leaking gear oil on the carpet. Battery box rusted through and under the box, floor panels gone, spare tire well gone, rocker panels rusted through. Since I am originally from Maryland and used to rust in old cars. I removed all the undercoating, trash, and cut all the rust out.
You just attack the rust and repair it how your able to. Weld in new panels or Rivet and seal in new sheet metal.
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Let us know what did you asked them to do?. Hot tank the block, New bearings, Pistons, rings, seals, and gaskets. That plus 3 angle valve job on the head. No head work. Camshaft upgrade, Replacement crankshaft?.
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75 280Z Door panels will work also.
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Check the fuel filter also, Remove the filter and try to blow through it. You should be able to blow through the filter with little effort.
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Its stamped on the back top part of the engine. Just behind the Intake Manifold.
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I bet after you drive the car and check it again, It will spin easier than it does right now.
I started my engine up after a co-worker rebuilt my turbo. I was kind of bummed that my turbo didn't spin when first running and revved. I took the car for a quick road test. Checked it while the engine was running again, and it was spinning at Idle.
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I would think you can still find a decent harness from a car at a J-yard.
The early 260z Harness should be very similar to your 73 Harness. That may be another option for you.
Late 260z Harnesses are diff, with diff wiring color codes.
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If you do some more searching you will find a few builds on this site, of VQ engines in Z's. 3.5 litre VQ's have more build threads. Maybe they are in the V6 Nissan Engine Forum. ( Hint Hint ). Quite a few of them have pictures and I think they show how they made the engine mounts also.
I saw 9 different threads on VQ engines in Z's, on the first page alone. Would like to see some pics of your build in progress.
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The 280z 5spd trans gearing is different, Otherwise you can swap either ZX or Z 5spds. Search for early 5spd or late ZX 5spd. You should find threads that show the different gearing between the two 5spds.
Which one you choose also may depend on, what setup you want to run. Turbo engine, N/a engine, and Rear Diff Gearing.
Imagine 2 Clsd diffs, A big bag of tools, and me alone trying to get all that up to the counter, to pay for them. 
lol Then me holding back a huge grin when the cashier said: $65 bucks each 
)
Another l28et in a 260Z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Take the rear diff, Axle shafts, and if you want to swap to rear disc brakes. Take all the rear brake components. You will need 80's maxima caliper mounting brackets. Keep both driveshafts so you know which one will fit in the 260 after the swap.
You can use the zx booster, Mount it upside down. Then you can use that zx mastercylinder. Use the 260Z clutch master cylinder, ZXT 5spd, and engine of course. Do the ZX alternator upgrade swap while your at it, and install the diode so you can turn the engine off. You will find all that in the swap write up. You can use the zx radiator, You may need to drill different holes to mount it, Its a tad larger. Using the oil cooler is up to you.
I did a 83 ZX n/a 2.8 swap into my 260z so remember a lot of what I did.
Don't be impatient and read more than you have done so far. I did research for 2 weeks before I did my swap.
Good Luck